A Lagrangian model for wind- and wave-induced near-surface currents

A theory is outlined for time-dependent currents induced near the sea surface in deep water, away from coastal boundaries, by a variable wind stress and deep-water wave field. It is based on the theory of Weber (1983) which uses a second-order perturbation expansion of the Navier-Stokes equations in Lagrangian coordinates and includes the Coriolis effect. It uses an eddy viscosity formulation for both wave dissipation and momentum transfer within the current field: the eddy viscosity ν may be allowed to vary with depth. The wind stress may be time-varying and the wave field may vary in both space and time.For the case of a constant ν, the results agree with those of Ursell (1950), Hasselmann (1970) and Pollard (1970) in the limit ν→0, and the steady-state results agree with those of Weber. For a particular case of depth-varying ν, results (obtained from numerical simulations) are in better general agreement with observations of wind-induced surface drift than when a constant ν is used.An outline is given of the application of the theory to the case of a random sea state. There are good prospects for using output data from numerical wave prediction models to drive the equations of this near-surface current model.     

Optical monitoring of coastal waters: Photic depth estimates

Measurements of underwater irradiance, transparency and Secchi disc depth were carried out in Liverpool Bay during 1974. The depth of the photic zone measured in the green portion of the spectrum ranged from 5 m to 50 m, depending on location and season. Inshore values of photic depth were smaller than those encountered offshore. By mid-summer the depth of the photic zone had reached or exceeded the depth of the sea bed over the whole study area.Consideration was given to the error terms associated with the optical measurements and to the problems of using standard optical relationships in coastal waters. The relationship between Secchi disc depth and the depth of the photic zone could not be taken as constant but was a function of the absorption and scattering properties of the water mass.     

La marge continentale Tunisienne: Résultats d'une étude par sismique réflexion: Sa place dans le cadre tectonique de la Méditerranée Occidentale

Résumé Une série de profils de sismique réflexion effectués au large de la Tunisie et dans le détroit sardano-tunisien aboutissent à l'élaboration d'un schéma géologique interprétatif dans lequel nous replaçons le socle paléozoïque et sa couverture autochtone (Eocène et plio-quaternaire) et allochtone (nappe numidienne). Nous discutons ensuite des manifestations néotectoniques (bassins d'effondrements plio-quaternaires-mouvement de flexure-surrections locales-venues intrusives). Enfin la nature du substratum du détroit sardano-tunisien est discutée en liaison avec les hypothèses dynamiques et statiques relatives à la formation de la Méditerranée occidentale.

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Serial seismic reflection profiles off Tunisia and between Sardinia and Tunisia are presented. Interpretation is given which includes paleozoïc basement and its autochtonous (Eocene and plioquaternary) and allochtonous (Numidian nappe) cover. Recent tectonic activity is discussed, (Plioquaternary foundered basins, flexure, local uplifts, intrusions). Then the nature of the basement of the Sardinia-Tunisia zone is discussed with respect to the various hypotheses on the region of the Western Mediterranean.

     

Free vibration of semisubmersibles: A parametric study

Like any other engineering structure, the dynamic aspects of semisubmersible offshore platforms require serious consideration. The free vibrations of the semisubmersible structures have been investigated in the present work, in which the effect of the variation of the length, draft and hull spacings on the natural frequencies and mode shapes has been studied and the nature of the variations and their reasons have been discussed.     

Evidence for gas accumulation associated with diapirism and gas hydrates at the head of the Cape Fear Slide

Single-channel seismic reflection profiles show evidence for areas of significant gas accumulation at the head of the Cape Fear Slide on the continental rise off North Carolina. Gas accumulation appears to occur beneath a gas hydrate seal in landward-dipping strata and in domed strata associated with diapirism. In addition, gas venting may have occurred near diapirs located at the head of the slide.     

Spatial variability in the primary productivity in the East China Sea and its adjacent waters

Primary productivity in the East China Sea and its adjacent area was measured by the¹³C tracer method during winter, summer and fall in 1993 and 1994. The depth-integrated primary productivity in the Kuroshio Current ranged from 220 to 350 mgC m⁻²d⁻¹, and showed little seasonal variability. High primary productivity (above 570 mgC m⁻²d⁻¹) was measured at the center of the continental shelf throughout the observation period. The productivity at the station nearest to the Changjiang estuary exhibited a distinctive seasonal change from 68 to 1,500 mgC m⁻²d⁻¹. Depth-integrated primary productivity was 2.7 times higher in the shelf area than the rates at the Kuroshio Current. High chlorophyll-a specific productivity (mgC mgChl.-a⁻²d⁻¹) throughout the euphotic zone was mainly found in the shelf area rather than off-shelf area, probably due to higher nutrient availability and higher activity of phytoplankton at the subsurface layer in the shelf area.     

Weakly non-linear free oscillations in a basin of variable depth

Weakly non-linear free oscillations in a basin of variable depth filled with non-viscous fluid are investigated in terms of the long waves theory using the perturbation technique. Solutions to the initial two approximations for the horizontal velocity component and free surface departure are numerically derived. An attempt is made to determine the area of applicability of the linear theory by applying a parabolic bottom profile to the basin.Translated by V. Puchkin.     

Magnitude-frequency relationship of coastal sand delivery by a southern California stream

Coastal sand delivery by a stream in southern California is estimated based on a numerical model which stimulates unsteady flow, sediment transport, and the associated channel adjustments for a stream-delta system. An average annual sediment yield of 51,400 m³/yr is estimated for the San Dieguito River, which drains a semiarid watershed controlled by dams. Of the total sand delivery by the stream, 20.5 percent is contributed from floods greater than the 100-year flood; 17.6 percent from those between the 50- and 100-year events; 28.4 percent from those between the 25- and 50 year floods; and 33.5 percent from those smaller than the 25-year flood.