Measuring run-up on a natural beach

Field experiments have been performed to evaluate and intercompare two techniques for measuring run-up on natural beaches, resistance wires and films. Simultaneous deployment of wire sensors shows a low error (< 5%) in electronics gain, but a strong sensitivity to the elevation of the wires above the beach face. On a low slope (β ～ 0.02) beach, with incident wind waves of moderate height (H ～ 1 m), differences of only a few cm in the wire elevation cause variance differences as large as 25%, in otherwise identical sensors. Replicate digitizations of the same run-up film show variance differences as large as 20%, with an average deviation from the mean variance of 8%.Use of the film and resistance wire sensors on the same run-up field showed small differences in the mean swash elevation (i.e., set-up), but an 83% difference in swash variance. Much further work is needed to determine the dependence of sensor differences on beach slope, porosity, camera elevation and other factors.     

Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone

The mass of water carried shoreward by the breaking waves in a surf zone will, in a two-dimensional situation, be compensated by a seaward return flow, the undertow. It is shown that the undertow is driven by the local difference between radiation stress and the set-up pressure gradient which only balance each other in average over the depth. Turbulent shear stresses are required to maintain a steady situation. Comparison with measurements confirms the theoretical results.     

A NEW MODEL FOR PEBBLE BEACH TRACER DISPERSAL

A series of eight tracer experiments were carried out over one year (1983) on a low energy, macro-tidal beach in South Wales, UK. Tracer movement was monitored and 30 pebbles adjacent to coloured tracer pebbles were measured. Measurements were of the A, B, and C axes, roundness, Maximum Projection Sphericity and Oblate-Prolate indices. Analysis shows that through time, the percentage rejection of these properties increased. It is theorised that the surface tracers are 'misfits' or 'rejects' which have not found their equilibrium position in the pebble facies.     

Experimental research on the hydrophysical characteristics and dynamics of waters in the north-west Black Sea in the region of the main Black Sea current

The results of measurements of hydrophysical parameters in the upper layer of the sea at an observation site located south-west of the Crimea are reported. The current pattern, the distribution of the upwelling and downwelling zones at the observation site, and the location of the mesoscale fronts are discussed.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Variability of the O2−H2S zone structure in the Black Sea: ‘Dramatic’ or mesoscale?

This paper discusses the conclusion derived during a joint U.S—Turkey expedition on the R/VKrorr on the dramatic variations of the O₂–H₂S zone in the Black Sea observed over the last 20 years. This conclusion is shown to be invalid since it was based on a comparison of data obtained at two stations only (in 1969 and 1988) that was made in various regions and in different seasons. Examples are provided for the inter-seasonal and mesoscale variations of hydrophysical and hydrochemical characteristics in the O₂–H₂S zone which, as to their scales, are comparable to or even exceed the variations registered during the expedition ofKrorr.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

The behaviour of a Cu(II) ion selective electrode in seawater; copper consumption capacity and copper determinations

Determinations of copper consumption capacity (CuCs.C) and labile copper concentrations in surface coastal seawater, using a copper ion selective electrode (Cu-ISE) potentiometric method under predominantly diffusive conditions, are reported. For evaluation of the copper concentrations, the points of the endpoint contiguity zone of the CuCs.C titration curve were treated by an ISE multiple standard addition technique. The results were compared with those obtained by means of a Chelex-100 (calcic form) ‘batch’ procedure-potentiometric stripping analysis.The labile copper of the sample was determined at concentrations down to 10.70 nM with an average RSD of 12%, independent of the Cu-ISE employed. For adjacent subsamples, the mean CuCs.C values obtained for El Way seawater were equivalent to 81.05 and 48.00 nM copper, with an RSD of 4 and 7%, and for Isla Santa Maria seawater the value was equivalent to 70.27 nM copper, with an RSD of 7%. The theoretical approach of the electrode diffusive mechanism proposed, which would depend, fundamentally, on the adsorptive, complexing and reducing properties of the dissolved organic matter in the seawater sample, allows simultaneous analytical determination of CuCs.C and labile copper concentration in seawater.     

Seasonal Variations in the Grain Size Distribution and Mineral Composition of Suspended Particulate Matter of the Northern Dvina River

Oceanology - The paper presents the first results of a study of seasonal variations in the grain size distribution and mineral compositions of suspended particulate matter (SPM) of the Northern...     

Mesoscale Variability of the Ocean in the Northern Part of the Weddell Sea

Oceanology - Results of a mesoscale survey in the Powell Basin in the northern part of the Weddell Sea are analyzed. The survey included 24 CTD casts (6 × 4) with an interval of six nautical...