Experimental study of the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater

This study investigates experimentally the breaking wave height of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater. Experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. A special type of wave gauge has been newly devised to record the water surface elevations in the breaker zone as accurately as possible. The records are analyzed to estimate the location and limit of wave breaking. Comparisons have also been made with the results of regular waves. The influence of the incident wave conditions on the breaking wave height normalized by the breakwater dimensions has been investigated. Empirical formulae have been presented to estimate the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves based on the experimental records. The formulae have been tested and found to work well not only for multi-directional random waves, but for regular waves as well.     

The Southern Ocean’s grip on the northward meridional flow

A ‘quasi-island’ approach for examining the meridional flux of warm and intermediate water from the Southern Ocean into the South Atlantic, the South Pacific and the Indian Ocean has recently been proposed ( [Nof, 2000a] and [Nof, 2002]). This approach considers the continents to be ‘pseudo islands’ in the sense that they are entirely surrounded by water, but have no circulation around them. The method employs an integration of the linearized momentum equations along a closed contour containing the continents. This allows the meridional transport into these oceans to be computed without having to find the detailed solution to the complete wind-thermohaline problem.The solution gives two results; one expected, the other unexpected. It shows that, as expected, about 9±5 Sv of upper and intermediate water enter the South Atlantic from the Southern Ocean. The unexpected result is that the Pacific-Indian Ocean system should contain a ‘shallow’ meridional overturning cell carrying 18±5 Sv. What is meant by shallow here is that the cell does not extend all the way to the bottom (as it does in the Atlantic) but is terminated at mid-depth. (This reflects the fact that there is no bottom water formation in the Pacific.) Both of these calculations rely on the observation that there is almost no flow through the Bering Strait and on the assumption that there is a negligible pressure torque on the Bering Strait’s sill.Here, we present a new and different approach, which does not rely on either of the above two conditions regarding the Bering Strait and yet gives essentially the same result. The approach does not involve any quasi-island calculation but rather employs an integration of the linearized zonal momentum equation along a closed open-water latitudinal belt connecting the tips of South Africa and South America. The integration relies on the existence of a belt (corridor) where the linearized general circulation equations are valid. It allows for a net northward mass flux through either the Sverdrup interior or the western boundary currents. It is found that the belt-corridor approach gives 29±5 Sv for the total meridional flux of surface and intermediate water from the Southern Ocean. This agrees very well with the quasi-island calculations, which give a total northward flux of 27±5 Sv. Given the spacing between the continents and the small variability of the southern winds with longitude, one may assume that 9 Sv of the total 29 Sv enters the Atlantic and the other 20 Sv enters the combined Pacific-Indian Ocean system, which is also in agreement with the quasi-island calculation. These agreements indicate that the assumptions made in the earlier studies regarding the Bering Strait are probably valid.     

Investigation of the electromagnetic fields induced by sea wave motion

This paper discusses a theoretical model of the electromagnetic field induced by internal waves of baric origin. Comparison of thein situ data on the differences between the horizontal electrical field potentials conditioned by internal waves in some Black Sea and tropical Atlantic areas and of the results of calculations of the model electrical field's intensity in those areas shows their good agreement. The dependences of the electromagnetic field component amplitudes on the internal waves parameters and sea-bed rock conductivity are considered. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

The reliability of analytical data for tributyltin (TBT) in sea water and its implications on water quality criteria

To investigate the reliability of analytical data for tributyltin (TBT) in sea water, split water samples were distributed to ten laboratories in six countries. The sub-surface samples comprised: (i) an offshore (0·5 km) water sample, (ii) the same sample but spiked with an undisclosed quantity of TBT standard compound (175 ng TBT⁺ liter⁻¹), and (iii) a sample taken from a yacht marina. The seven acceptable data sets were in good agreement for the spiked sample (178 ± 26 ng TBT⁺ liter⁻¹) but showed a greater variation in concentrations reported for the yacht marina sample (366 ± 93 ng TBT⁺ liter⁻¹). Atomic absorption and gas chromatographic-flame photometric detection techniques produced results of similar accuracy and precision. Samples acidified with 1 ml of 10% (v/v) acetic acid appeared stable for more than 2 weeks when stored refrigerated and in darkness. Analyses of the offshore seawater sample revealed TBT contamination (9 ± 7 ng TBT⁺ liter⁻¹) indicating dispersion of the compound to the shelf waters off Monaco. The spread in values reported by the laboratories demonstrates inherent difficulties in obtaining good precision below approximately 20 ng TBT⁺ liter⁻¹. This observation is discussed with respect to the setting and enforcing of water quality standards.     

Robust diagnostic modeling of the Japan Sea circulation

The Japan Sea circulation is numerically modeled with robust diagnostic terms included. The general features are nearly the same as previous prognostic models though small differences appear in local current fields, and agree with most of existing observation results. This model, however, seems to be more successful than prognostic ones in that the overshooting of the East Korean Warm Current, a northward western boundary current, is much reduced and the North Korean Cold Current, a southward western boundary current, is more enhanced. Based on the model results, discussions are made about the large convective structure and the global kinetic energy budget of the Japan Sea circulation.     

On the application of the units of measurement of the amount and composition of matter in oceanology

We consider the procedures of conversion of the conventional and out-of-system units of measurement of the amount and composition of matter used in oceanology to the International System of Units (SI). The coefficients of conversion are presented in the form of a table. We present the data on the units of measurement of mineralization (scales of salinity) of seawater for the oceanic range of its variability, freshened waters of internal seas, and brines. The contemporary concept of salinity as a dimensionless quantity is discussed.Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 4, pp. 61–72, July–August, 2004.     

Temperature of the ocean surface as an indicator of thermodynamic processes in the northwest Pacific

The numerical computations and analysis of the anomalies of temperature of the ocean surface in the northwest part of the Pacific Ocean were carried out on the basis of the archival data for 1960 and 1964–1985. A five-year period of general instability of the annual average temperature was revealed (1973–1977). In this period, the year 1974 was the coldest and the year 1977 was characterized as extremely warm. We performed the analysis of the interannual and annual variability of the anomalies of temperature of the ocean surface and revealed common features and distinctions of the seasonal evolution of these anomalies for years with substantially different temperature conditions. A quasistationary zone of maximally heated waters was discovered in the band located (independently of the year and season) between 36 and 46°N to the east of 140°E. This zone coincides in space with the zone of the subarctic front and the south part of the subarctic region. The influence of the meanders of the Kuroshio Current was demonstrated. It is shown that their activity increases after the events of El-Niño and, hence, the thermal energy of the water area considerably increases and remains elevated for a period of 1–2 yr after the indicated events.Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 5, pp. 45–52, September–October, 2004.This revised version was published online in May 2005 with corrections to cover date.     

Circulation and currents in the southwestern East/Japan Sea: Overview and review

A review is made of circulation and currents in the southwestern East/Japan Sea (the Ulleung Basin), and the Korea/Tsushima Strait which is a unique conduit for surface inflow into the Ulleung Basin. The review particularly concentrates on describing some preliminary results from recent extensive measurements made after 1996. Mean flow patterns are different in the upstream and downstream regions of the Korea/Tsushima Strait. A high velocity core occurs in the mid-section in the upstream region, and splits into two cores hugging the coasts of Korea and Japan, the downstream region, after passing around Tsushima Island located in the middle of the strait. Four-year mean transport into the East/Japan Sea through the Korea/Tsushima Strait based on submarine cable data calibrated by direct observations is 2.4 Sv (1 Sv = 10⁶ m³ s⁻¹). A wide range of variability occurs for the subtidal transport variation from subinertial (2–10 days) to interannual scales. While the subinertial variability is shown to arise from the atmospheric pressure disturbances, the longer period variation has been poorly understood.Mean upper circulation of the Ulleung Basin is characterized by the northward flowing East Korean Warm Current along the east coast of Korea and its meander eastward after the separation from the coast, the Offshore Branch along the coast of Japan, and the anticyclonic Ulleung Warm Eddy that forms from a meander of the East Korean Warm Current. Continuous acoustic travel-time measurements between June 1999 and June 2001 suggest five quasi-stable upper circulation patterns that persist for about 3–5 months with transitions between successive patterns occurring in a few months or days. Disappearance of the East Korean Warm Current is triggered by merging the Dok Cold Eddy, originating from the pinching-off of the meander trough, with the coastal cold water carried Southward by the North Korean Cold Current. The Ulleung Warm Eddy persisted for about 20 months in the middle of the Ulleung Basin with changes in its position and spatial scale associated with strengthening and weakening of the transport through the Korea/Tsushima Strait. The variability of upper circulation is partly related to the transport variation through the Korea/Tsushima Strait. Movements of the coastal cold water and the instability of the polar front also appear to be important factors affecting the variability.Deep circulation in the Ulleung Basin is primarily cyclonic and commonly consists of one or more cyclonic cells, and an anticyclonic cell centered near Ulleung Island. The cyclonic circulation is conjectured to be driven by a net inflow through the Ulleung Interplain Gap, which serves as a conduit for the exchange of deep waters between the Japan Basin in the northern East Sea and the Ulleung Basin. Deep currents are characterized by a short correlation scale and the predominance of mesoscale variability with periods of 20–40 days. Seasonality of deep currents is indistinct, and the coupling of upper and deep circulation has not been clarified yet.     

Late Holocene estuarine–inner shelf interactions; is there evidence of an estuarine retreat path for Tampa Bay, Florida?

The purpose of this study was to determine if and how a large, modern estuarine system, situated in the middle of an ancient carbonate platform, has affected its adjacent inner shelf both in the past during the last, post-glacial sea-level rise and during the present. An additional purpose was to determine if and how this inner shelf seaward of a major estuary differed from the inner shelves located just to the north and south but seaward of barrier-island shorelines. Through side-scan sonar mosaicking, bathymetric studies, and ground-truthing using surface grab samples as well as diver observations, two large submarine sand plains were mapped – one being the modern ebb-tidal delta and the other interpreted to be a relict ebb-tidal delta formed earlier in the Holocene. The most seaward portion of the inner shelf studied consists of a field of lobate, bathymetrically elevated, fine-sand accumulations, which were interpreted to be sediment-starved 3D dunes surrounded by small 2D dunes composed of coarse molluscan shell gravel. Additionally, exposed limestone hardbottoms supporting living benthic communities were found as well. This modern shelf sedimentary environment is situated on a large, buried shelf valley, which extends eastward beneath the modern Tampa Bay estuary. These observations plus the absence of an incised shelf valley having surficial bathymetric expression, and the absence of sand bodies normally associated with back-tracking estuarine systems indicate that there was no cross-shelf estuarine retreat path formed during the last rise in sea level. Instead, the modern Tampa Bay formed within a mid-platform, low-relief depression, which was flooded by rising marine waters late in the Holocene. With continued sea-level rise in the late Holocene, this early embayment was translated eastward or landward to its present position, whereby a larger ebb-tidal delta prograded out onto the inner shelf. Extensive linear sand ridges, common to the inner shelves to the north and south, did not form in this shelf province because it was a low-energy, open embayment lacking the wave climate and nearshore zone necessary to create such sand bodies. The distribution of bedforms on the inner shelf and the absence of seaward-oriented 2D dunes on the modern ebb-tidal delta indicate that the modern estuarine system has had little effect on its adjacent inner shelf.