Influence of Energy Directional Spread on Wave Spectral Refraction

Pierson- Moskowitz Spectrum, JONSWAP Spectrum as well as Bretschneider- Mitsuyasu Spectrum are used in this paper for analyzing the influence of wave energy directional spread on refraction of wave spectrum due to both current and topography of sea bed. The author's calculation indicates that such kind influence on the characteristic value of wave height as well as the average direction of wave energy propagation can not be ignored.     

Hydrodynamic Forces on Inclined Cylinder due to Waves with Crossing Current

Based on Morison's Equation and linear wave theory, hydrodynamic forces acting on inclined cylinders due to waves and crossing current at an angle of a, are analyzed. A method for calculating exciting forces is proposed. Experimental results show that the proposed method in this paper is feasible and can be used in engineering practice.     

A PROBABLE AVENUE TO EFFECT OF POLAR ICE ON NORTH PACIFIC SUBTROPICAL HIGH

This paper is based on the data for the period from 1953 to 1977, which are the monthly averaged ice cover in the Arctic area within 160° E-110° W and north of 50?N, the areal index of the North Pacific subtropical high and the monthly averaged sea surface temperature of the North Pacific. A statistical analysis of the lag correlations between the polar ice from November to July and the sea surface temperature from January to July, and the sea surface temperature from January to July and the subtropical high lagging zero through eleven months is performed.The analysis shows that the lag correlation regions between the polar ice during spring and the sea surface temperature almost coincide with the regions of the California Current and the paitial north equatorial current, and the regions of the California Current and the partial north equatorial current coincide with the principal lag correlation regions between the sea surface temperature and the subtropical high. All the results suggest that the tra     

螺线海岸判定准则及其在华南弧形海岸形态中的应用

弧形海岸形态规律的研究是岬湾沙质海岸稳定与演变研究的重要内容。在简要回顾螺线海岸理论及其应用研究状况的基础上．根据Silvester 1970、1974年及Hsu等1989年提出的螺线海岸平衡判定准则，计算了华南34个典型弧形海岸的平面形态要素，并对判定准则在华南弧形海岸中的适应性进行了评价。结果表明，由于华南弧形海岸遮蔽岸段发育有潮汐通道，湾内存在少量沿岸输沙等因素，致使判定准则并不能用于预测华南弧形海岸的稳定与侵蚀状况。     

福建三沙湾浮性鱼卵和仔、稚鱼的分布

本文根据1990年2～11月在三沙湾海域分别进行4个季节调查的资料,对三沙湾鱼卵和仔、稚鱼的种类组成、丰度和主要种类的分布进行研究和探讨.结果表明,本海区共出现鱼卵和仔、稚鱼26种,分别隶属于17科22属.在数量上,鱼卵最高值出现在春季（5月）,其中鱼卵丰度较高的种类是真鲷、带鱼、鲾和康氏小公鱼等种类.仔稚鱼以夏季丰度最高,并以鰕虎鱼丰度（71.8%）最高.在分布上,鱼卵的丰度以三都岛东北部和东吾洋海域最高,仔稚鱼以三都岛东部最为密集.这表明本海区的鱼类的主要产卵季节是春季和夏季.其数量、分布与水温及桡足类的分布关系密切.     

The New Form of Time-Dependent Mild Slope Equation for Random Waves

The mild-slope equation derived by Berkhoff (1972), has widely been used in the numerical calculation of refraction and diffraction of regular waves. However, it is well known that the random sea waves has a significant effect in the refraction and diffraction problems. In this paper, a new form of time-dependent mild slope equation for irregular waves was derived with Fade approximation and Kubo's time series concept. The equation was simplified using WKB method, and simple and practical irregular mild slope equation was obtained. Results of numerical calculations are compared with those of laboratory experiments.     

New Derivation of Ordinary Differential Equations for Transient Free-Surface Green Functions

Based on the Laplace transform, a direct derivation of the ordinary differential equations for the three-dimensional transient free-surface Green function in marine hydrodynamics is presented. The results for the 3D Green function and all its spatial derivatives are a set of fourth-order ordinary differential equations, which are identical with that of Clement (1998). All of these results may be used to accelerate numerical computation for the time-domain boundary element method in marine hydrodynamics.     

福建福宁湾无机氮含量的变化特征及其对浮游植物的影响

本文根据2002-2003年福宁湾海域的监测资料对NO2-N、NO3＋N、NH4-N三态DIN的变化特征和相互关系进行分析，并分析其对浮游植物生物量的影响．研究表明：NO3-N、DIN含量均呈冬季最高、夏季最低，NO2-N含量秋季最高，冬季最低；福宁湾海域赤潮高发期水体DIN中三氮所占比例与年平均相比变化最大的是NO3-N，其次是NH4-N，NO2-N最小；NO3-N、DIN与盐度均呈明显负相关；NO3-N与DIN呈明显正相关；NO3-N是福宁湾海域DIN的主要存在形式；三态氮中仅NO3-N为福宁湾海域浮游植物生长限制因子；浮游植物对DIN的吸收主要以NO3-N形式为主。     

The Lift Forces Acting on a Submarine Composite Pipeline in a Wave-Current Coexisting Field

- A composite pipeline is defined as a main big pipe composed of one or several small pipes. The flow behaviour around a submarine composite pipeline is more complicated than that around a single submarine pipeline. A series model test of composite pipelines in a wave-current coexisting field was conducted by the authors. Both in-line and lift forces were measured, and the resultant forces were also analyzed. The results of lift forces and resultant forces are reported in this paper. It is found that the lift force coefficients for composite pipelines are well related to the KC number. The lift force coefficients for an irregular wave-current coexisting field are smaller than those for a regular wave-current coexisting field. The frequency of lift force is usually twice the wave frequency or higher. The authors test indicates that the resultant forces are about 10 to 20 percent larger than in-line forces (horizontal forces). The effect of water depth is analyzed. Finally, the relationship between lift f     

杭州湾北岸金山咀—龙泉港岸段近岸滩槽冲淤演变分析

以杭州湾北岸金山咀—龙泉港岸段边滩及海床为研究区域,利用1989—2014年实测及海图资料分析岸滩断面地形变化和岸段冲淤变化。结果表明:在该研究时段,岸段存在长期稳定的冲刷深槽;近岸海床的冲淤表现出“波动性”,5 m等深线(2014年)以浅区以淤积为主,5 m等深线以深冲淤更迭,1989年以来总体呈现冲刷态势。长江入海泥沙量变化为该岸段发生侵蚀/淤积的影响因子之一,台风大浪及海床侵蚀/淤积波的移动导致海床冲淤复杂化。