Distribution of nonlinear wave crests

The distribution of nonlinear wave crests is examined on the basis of a theoretical probability density previously given elsewhere (J. Eng. Mech. 120 (1994) 1009). Certain errors contained in the original theoretical density are corrected, and the corresponding exceedance distribution is derived. The resulting theoretical forms of the probability density and exceedance distribution are then slightly simplified and compared with nonlinear wave data gathered under hurricane conditions. The results indicate that the proposed theoretical forms describe the observed distributions of large wave crests better than the Rayleigh law. However, the quantitative accuracy of the predictions is somewhat poor, as is typical of approximate theories based on Gram–Charlier-type expansions.     

The analysis and digital signal processing of NOAA's surface current mapping system

We describe newly developed numerical procedures used to analyze and process sea-echo data acquired with National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration's (NOAA) dual-site HF-radar system called Coastal Ocean Dynamics Applications Radar (CODAR). CODAR is a transportable shore-based system that can map surface currents out to a nominal range of 50 km. Since its introduction in 1976, it has performed well in a dozen major experiments. Until recently, however, the data processing was labor intensive, difficult to understand, and slow. The processing presented here largely corrects these difficulties, giving CODAR reliable real-time mapping capabilities.     

积雪变化导致格陵兰冰盖高度变化

地面冰盖对气候变化的反应可能会对未 来的海平面变化产生重大的影响.近年来格 陵兰南部的卫星调查显示,较大高度的冰盖 总体高度变化甚小,但空间变化很大.当然 仅仅依靠卫星数据难以测定是什么地球物理 过程引起了这种高度变化以及近年的变化速 率是否超过了正常变化速率.我们利用雪粒 密度增大的物理模型和根据高海拔12个冰 心再造的年雪堆积记录,获取了1978～1988 年格陵兰南部冰盖高度的变化. 地中海的干涸及其产生的后果 К.Н. Несис 很久以来就知道,地史最后阶段最具戏 剧性的事件之一就是大约在6Ma前的中新 世末期地中海的被隔离和完全干涸.据西西 里岛墨西拿城附近该时期著名的沉积剖面, 这个事件被称之为墨西拿盐量转变. 马建华摘译自 , 2000, Vol.406,No.24 周立君校