Breaking Criteria for Regular Waves on Gentle Slopes

Nelson pointed out that the wave breaking criterion(H/d)_b for gentle slopes(i<1/100),inwhich H is the wave height and d is the water depth at the breaking point,is smaller than that for beachslopes of i>1/100),i.e.,the value of(H/d)_b for gentle slopes may be smaller than 0.6.Goda indicatedthat the wave breaking criterion given by himself is a result based on theoretical study,so it should be alsocorrect and can be used for gentle beaches,i.e.,the value of(H/d)_b for gentle slopes may be still largerthan 0.7.By use of high order nonlinear wave theory,this problem is analyzed in this study and the reasonwhy there is a large difference between different studies is explained.Moreover,the bottom energy loss dur-ing wave propagation is considered and the critical slope for the absence of wave breaking is also analyzed.     

藻类腐殖化模拟中胡敏酸的红外光谱及热失重特征变化

用红外光谱分析和热失重分析法对从蓝藻腐殖化过程中提取的胡敏酸的元素组成及结构特征进行分析。结果表明： 蓝藻好氧厌氧发酵过程中有机碳、有机氮表现出下降的趋势,且好氧阶段大于厌氧阶段。至模拟实验结束,C/N 比由最初 的5.939 升至9.962,趋近于其中所含胡敏酸的C/N 比10.93。胡敏酸的红外光谱解析显示,不同处理阶段样品胡敏酸在波数 （2920+2850）/1630（脂肪碳/ 芳碳）处吸收峰面积比分别为1.23, 2.73, 0.78, 0.83,芳碳含量增加,表明厌氧过程有助于胡敏 酸结构的芳构化。热失重分析显示发酵生成的胡敏酸有两个明显失重峰值290℃和340℃,主要是非核部分脂肪侧链及氢键 结合OH 的裂解,说明蓝藻发酵生成的胡敏酸主要以脂肪族为主,结构相对于土壤胡敏酸较为简单。结合样品中可溶性有 机质族组分中饱和烃与芳香烃含量的比较,厌氧处理中芳香烃组分成倍增加,亦说明胡敏酸芳构化程度增高,为腐泥型干 酪根早期演化提供了实验依据。     

斜向波流作用下水平杆件上的波力谱

本文根据作者提出的线性化方法,对于斜向波浪和水流作用下水平杆件上的拖曳力做了线性化。根据线性波浪理论,求得了水平杆件上和整个杆件上的力谱矩阵。整个杆件上的力谱矩阵可通过单元波力谱与波向影响函数而得到。计算表明,波浪方向对力谱的影响较水流方向的影响更为显著。     

倾斜杆件上的波流力谱——实验研究

海洋结构中,大部分结构均由杆件组成的。对于垂直杆件上的波浪力,人们已经做了大量的理论和实验上的研究工作,得到了相当多的观测资料,建立了比较实用的计算方法。实际海洋结构上的杆件,一般都或多或少地倾斜着,垂直杆件只不过是倾斜杆件的一种特例。因此,波浪、水流对倾斜杆件的作用问题,更具有其广泛性和代表性。但由于倾斜杆件上波流作用力的复杂性,这一方面的研究,尤其是不规则波浪作用下的研究,至今见到的工作较少。实际工程计算中,往往借助于垂直桩柱下的资料和方法进行。     

一个新的非恒定型不规则波缓坡方程

缓坡方程由Ｂｅｒｋｈｏｆ所推导并在规则波折射绕射问题的研究上有着广泛的应用。然而对于不规则波折射绕射问题研究，缓坡方程还处于发展研究阶段，本文采用Ｐａｄｅ近似并仿Ｋｕｂｏ方法对缓坡波动方程进行了推导，得到了一个含有时间高阶导数项的不规则波缓坡方程，随即采用ＷＫＢ方法对这个不规则波的缓坡方程进行了简化，推导出一个较为实用的含有一阶时间导数的不规则波缓坡的波动方程。通过数值手段对所推导的不规则波缓坡方程进行了数值模拟，其结果与物模实验较为一致     

缓坡方程与Boussinesq方程的差异性比较

本文对在缓变水深条件下缓坡方程和Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程各种不甘落后 差异进行了比较。明确了线性缓坡方程的频散性上，要好于非线性Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程。而Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程可讨论非线性的波与波相互作用等问题，而缓坡方程则不能。对Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程在不规则波计算上的局限性问题本文也进行了讨论，指出对于不规则波而言分解频率的数量和对高频波所产生的混淆误差的抑制是Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程能     

重力式网箱数值模拟时波浪理论选择

针对重力式网箱数值模拟中波浪理论选择问题进行了专门的分析与讨论。在数值模型中分别采用线性波浪理论和斯托克斯五阶波浪理论,对重力式网箱的主要部件浮架系统和网衣系统进行模拟。通过将模拟结果与试验结果比较分析选取两种不同波浪理论对模拟结果的影响。分析结果认为在相对水深大于0.18情况下,应用线性波浪理论基本可以准确地模拟重力式网箱波浪作用下的运动和受力。     

碟形网箱水动力特性的研究

根据物模实验得到碟形网箱在不同海况条件下的受力并给出了其估算方法和公式及其相关系数的取值,同时总结了碟形网箱的运动特性。     

An improved numerical simulation mode of nonlinear wave with consideration of high order terms

In this paper the 0-1 combined BEM is adopted to subdivide the computational domain boundary,and to discretize the Green’s integral expression based on Laplace equation.The FEM is used to subdivide the wave surface and deduce the surface equation which satisfies the nonlinear boundary conditions on the surface.The equations with potential function and wave surface height as an unknown quantity by application of Taylor expansion approach can be solved by iteration within the time step.In m-time iteration within the computational process of time step(n-1)Δt to nΔt,the results of the previous iteration are taken as the initial value of the two-order unknown terms in the present iteration.Thus,an improved tracking mode of nonlinear wave surface is established,and numerical results of wave tank test indicate that this mode is improved obviously and is more precise than the previous numerical model which ignored the two-order unknown terms of wave surface location and velocity potential function in comparison with the theoretical values.     

Experimental and Theoretical Investigation of Wave Forces on A Partially-Perforated Caisson Breakwater with A Rock-Filled Core

1.IntroductionVertical breakwaters are widely used for harbor and coastline protection in coastal engineering.Recently,perforated breakwaters have been often used in practice as they can effectively reduce thewaveforces actingon,the wave reflectionfromand…