海浪非线性性的实验研究——Ⅰ.波面高度分布的非正态性

本文介绍海浪非线性性实验研究的第一部分。利用实验室测得的在各种背景下具有不同非线性强度的风浪波面记录,通过波面统计分析,并与非线性波面理论分布比较,揭示了海浪非线性性的外观特征及其随风速、风区等的变化规律。     

湛江湾沿岸工程冲淤影响的预测分析Ⅱ.冲淤的数模计算

本文在研究I动力地貌分析的基础上,参照窦国仁等提出的河道二维全沙数学模型,建立了在波浪、潮流共同作用下的二维全沙数学模型.通过合理地选取模型中有关参数,比较好地模拟了日前湛江湾冲淤变化的基本态势,并对湛江湾开发工程后港湾可能引起的冲淤强度变化和冲淤区域的空间分布进行了计算预测,其结果与动力地貌分析的结果一致.     

均匀水底上二维随机波面的二阶谱

本文用摄动方法导出了均匀水底上精确至二阶的二维随机波动解。依据此解并将二阶谱定义为三阶矩函数的Fourier变换,首次给出了精确至二阶的二维随机波面二阶谱的理论表达式并简略地考虑了它的各个组成部分的物理意义。     

The Mathematical and Parameterized Expressions for Wave Induced Excess Flow of Momentum

Wave induced excess flow of momentum(WIEFM)is the averaged flow of momentum over a wave period due to wave presence,which may also be called 3-D radiation stress.In this paper,the 3-D current equations with WIEFM are derived from the averaged Navier-Stokes equations over a wave period,in which the velocity is separated into the large-scale background velocity,the wave particle velocity and the turbulent fluctuation velocity.A concept of wave fluctuating layer(WFL)is put forward,which is the vertical column from the wave trough to wave ridge.The mathematical expressions of WIEFM in WFL and below WFL are given separately.The parameterized expressions of WIEFM are set up according to the linear wave theory.The integration of WIEFM in the vertical direction equals the traditional radiation stress(namely 2-D radiation stress)given by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart.     

风浪统计性质的实验研究──Ⅰ.波高与周期的统计分布

本文为风浪统计性质实验研究的第一部分.利用现代化的大型水槽,设计并进行不同坡度水底上的多种风浪实验,依据实验获得的大量实测资料,重点讨论了在不同实验条件下波高与周期的统计规律;并通过与理论结果的比较,得到了若干重要的结论.     

Numerical Simulation of Non-Linear Wave Propagation in Waters of Mildly Varying Topography with Complicated Boundary

In this paper, the characteristics of different forms of mild slope equations for non-linear wave are analyzed, and new non-linear theoretic models for wave propagation are presented, with non-linear terms added to the mild slope equations for non-stationary linear waves and dissipative effects considered. Numerical simulation models are developed of non-linear wave propagation for waters of mildly varying topography with complicated boundary, and the effects are studied of different non-linear corrections on calculation results of extended mild slope equations. Systematical numerical simulation tests show that the present models can effectively reflect non-linear effects.     

Hybrid N-order Lagrangian Interpolation Eulerian?Lagrangian Method for Salinity Calculation

The Eulerian?Lagrangian method (ELM) has been used by many ocean models as the solution of the advection equation, but the numerical error caused by interpolation imposes restriction on its accuracy. In the present study, hybrid N-order Lagrangian interpolation ELM (LiELM) is put forward in which the N-order Lagrangian interpolation is used at first, then the lower order Lagrangian interpolation is applied in the points where the interpolation results are abnormally higher or lower. The calculation results of a step-shaped salinity advection model are analyzed, which show that higher order (N=3?8) LiELM can reduce the mean numerical error of salinity calculation, but the numerical oscillation error is still significant. Even number order LiELM makes larger numerical oscillation error than its adjacent odd number order LiELM. Hybrid N-order LiELM can remove numerical oscillation, and it significantly reduces the mean numerical error when N is even and the current is in fixed direction, while it makes less effect on mean numerical error when N is odd or the current direction changes periodically. Hybrid odd number order LiELM makes less mean numerical error than its adjacent even number order LiELM when the current is in the fixed direction, while the mean numerical error decreases as N increases when the current direction changes periodically, so odd number of N may be better for application. Among various types of Hybrid N-order LiELM, the scheme reducing N-order directly to 1st-order may be the optimal for synthetic selection of accuracy and computational efficiency.     

流速逆变张量隐式求解方法及其在航道港池流场计算中的应用

运用高分辨率的边界适应网格进行流体动力学数值计算时,如何提高计算稳定性和减少计算量成为数值求解的关键性问题.在非正交的边界适应坐标系中,每个动量方程中同时出现了两个交叉方向的水位偏导数项,给隐式求解带来困难,而显式格式下的时间步长由于受与空间步长有关的Courant-Friedrichs-Lewy条件限制,计算量成倍增加.本文从广义曲线坐标系下浅海动力学方程组出发,导出了流速的逆变张量所满足的动量方程组,使方程中的水位偏导数项变成了沿某一协变基向量方向占优的形式,方便地采用了交替方向隐式差分格式,从而提高了计算稳定性并减小了计算量.本文通过对澳门海域航道和港池中流场的计算,证实了该模式是一种进行高分辩率数值计算的有效方法.     

湛江近海M2分潮的数值模拟

利用潮汐模型,在高分辨率的自适应曲线网格下,采用潮汐调和常数作为控制模拟精度的方法,模拟了洪江附近海域M2分潮的运动特征。模拟所得的潮汐调和常数同实测值相比,误差较小。根据模拟结果绘制的M2分潮的同潮图,揭示了湛江附近海域M2分潮振幅和迟角的分布特征以及M2分潮的传播和发展规律。模拟得到的M2分潮分别在涨憩、落憩、涨急和落急几个典型时刻的流场,揭示了湛江附近海域M2分潮潮流的分布特征及其运动规律。     

长江口附近海域台风浪的数值模拟--以鹿沙台风和森拉克台风为例

利用SWAN波浪模型计算长江口附近海域的台风浪,鉴于长江河口岸界和地形复杂,拟采用曲线网格.为证实曲线网格下的SWAN模型对于复杂地形的有效性,首先选用美国特拉华大学波浪水池实验资料对SWAN模型进行检验,结果表明利用曲线网格能不过多增加计算量而提高关键区域的计算精度.以0215号鹿沙台风和0216号森拉克台风为例,将SWAN模型应用到长江口附近海域,进行台风浪的数值模拟.通过浮标测站实测资料验证,表明有效波高计算值与实测值符合良好.通过综合分析模型计算的波浪场,说明SWAN模型能合理地反映长江口附近海域台风浪的分布.