海浪非线性性的实验研究——Ⅰ.波面高度分布的非正态性

本文介绍海浪非线性性实验研究的第一部分。利用实验室测得的在各种背景下具有不同非线性强度的风浪波面记录,通过波面统计分析,并与非线性波面理论分布比较,揭示了海浪非线性性的外观特征及其随风速、风区等的变化规律。     

湛江湾沿岸工程冲淤影响的预测分析Ⅱ.冲淤的数模计算

本文在研究I动力地貌分析的基础上,参照窦国仁等提出的河道二维全沙数学模型,建立了在波浪、潮流共同作用下的二维全沙数学模型.通过合理地选取模型中有关参数,比较好地模拟了日前湛江湾冲淤变化的基本态势,并对湛江湾开发工程后港湾可能引起的冲淤强度变化和冲淤区域的空间分布进行了计算预测,其结果与动力地貌分析的结果一致.     

均匀水底上二维随机波面的二阶谱

本文用摄动方法导出了均匀水底上精确至二阶的二维随机波动解。依据此解并将二阶谱定义为三阶矩函数的Fourier变换,首次给出了精确至二阶的二维随机波面二阶谱的理论表达式并简略地考虑了它的各个组成部分的物理意义。     

The Mathematical and Parameterized Expressions for Wave Induced Excess Flow of Momentum

Wave induced excess flow of momentum(WIEFM)is the averaged flow of momentum over a wave period due to wave presence,which may also be called 3-D radiation stress.In this paper,the 3-D current equations with WIEFM are derived from the averaged Navier-Stokes equations over a wave period,in which the velocity is separated into the large-scale background velocity,the wave particle velocity and the turbulent fluctuation velocity.A concept of wave fluctuating layer(WFL)is put forward,which is the vertical column from the wave trough to wave ridge.The mathematical expressions of WIEFM in WFL and below WFL are given separately.The parameterized expressions of WIEFM are set up according to the linear wave theory.The integration of WIEFM in the vertical direction equals the traditional radiation stress(namely 2-D radiation stress)given by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart.     

风浪统计性质的实验研究──Ⅰ.波高与周期的统计分布

本文为风浪统计性质实验研究的第一部分.利用现代化的大型水槽,设计并进行不同坡度水底上的多种风浪实验,依据实验获得的大量实测资料,重点讨论了在不同实验条件下波高与周期的统计规律;并通过与理论结果的比较,得到了若干重要的结论.     

Numerical Simulation of Non-Linear Wave Propagation in Waters of Mildly Varying Topography with Complicated Boundary

In this paper, the characteristics of different forms of mild slope equations for non-linear wave are analyzed, and new non-linear theoretic models for wave propagation are presented, with non-linear terms added to the mild slope equations for non-stationary linear waves and dissipative effects considered. Numerical simulation models are developed of non-linear wave propagation for waters of mildly varying topography with complicated boundary, and the effects are studied of different non-linear corrections on calculation results of extended mild slope equations. Systematical numerical simulation tests show that the present models can effectively reflect non-linear effects.     

Hybrid N-order Lagrangian Interpolation Eulerian?Lagrangian Method for Salinity Calculation

The Eulerian?Lagrangian method (ELM) has been used by many ocean models as the solution of the advection equation, but the numerical error caused by interpolation imposes restriction on its accuracy. In the present study, hybrid N-order Lagrangian interpolation ELM (LiELM) is put forward in which the N-order Lagrangian interpolation is used at first, then the lower order Lagrangian interpolation is applied in the points where the interpolation results are abnormally higher or lower. The calculation results of a step-shaped salinity advection model are analyzed, which show that higher order (N=3?8) LiELM can reduce the mean numerical error of salinity calculation, but the numerical oscillation error is still significant. Even number order LiELM makes larger numerical oscillation error than its adjacent odd number order LiELM. Hybrid N-order LiELM can remove numerical oscillation, and it significantly reduces the mean numerical error when N is even and the current is in fixed direction, while it makes less effect on mean numerical error when N is odd or the current direction changes periodically. Hybrid odd number order LiELM makes less mean numerical error than its adjacent even number order LiELM when the current is in the fixed direction, while the mean numerical error decreases as N increases when the current direction changes periodically, so odd number of N may be better for application. Among various types of Hybrid N-order LiELM, the scheme reducing N-order directly to 1st-order may be the optimal for synthetic selection of accuracy and computational efficiency.     

全球大洋潮汐模式在北印度洋潮汐预报准确性的评估

为评估DTU10、TPXO8、GOT00.2和NAO.99b 4个全球大洋潮汐模式对北印度洋潮汐的预报能力,采用英国海洋资料中心提供的海区中部和沿岸站潮汐调和常数资料,检验了这些模式4个主要分潮(M_2、S_2、K_1、O_1)的准确度。它们的各分潮调和常数资料准确度都比较高,振幅绝均差的最大值仅5.61 cm,迟角绝均差的最大值仅9.13°。这些模式的调和常数给出潮波传播特征差别不大。基于这些模式提供的调和常数,分别建立了北印度洋4、8和16分潮潮汐预报模型,将预报结果与中国海事服务网提供的沿岸24个站潮汐表资料进行对比。各模式的8分潮(M_2、S_2、N_2、K_2、K_1、O_1、P_1、Q_1)潮汐预报模型均优于4分潮(M_2、S_2、K_1、O_1)潮汐预报模型,NAO.99b模式可以提供16分潮(M_2、S_2、N_2、K_2、K_1、O_1、P_1、Q_1、MU_2、NU_2、T_2、L_2、2N_2、J_1、M1、OO_1)潮汐预报模型,但是对预报结果改善不明显;在各模式中,GOT00.2模式的8分潮潮汐预报模型对北印度洋沿岸的预报效果最好,平均绝均差为14.97 cm。     

ECOMSED模式在杭州湾海域流场模拟中的应用

针对杭州湾独特的喇叭型强潮河口湾的特点,基于Blumberg等(1996)的ECOMSED模式,引入动边界技术,建立杭州湾三维动边界的潮流模型.模型以正交曲线坐标下三维非线性水动力方程为基本方程,应用Mellor和Yamada的2.5阶湍流闭合模型计算紊动黏滞系数,嵌入Grant和Madsen的底边界层模型考虑波浪对底部应力的作用,采用干湿网格法模拟潮流漫滩过程;综合考虑径流,风应力,密度流和M₂,S₂,K₁,O₁四个主要分潮和M₄,S₄,MS₄三个浅水分潮的作用,从而提高杭州湾潮流模拟的精度.通过验潮站调和常数和多次海流连续观测资料的验证,表明该文建立的模型可以更好的用于杭州湾流场的预报模拟.     

河口物质和水体长期输运分离的理论分析和观测验证Ⅰ.物质和水体长期输运分离的理论分析

基于单宽断面潮周期平均水体和物质对流输运通量,定义了二维水体和物质长期输运速度,它们分别描述单宽断面水体和物质长期输运的方向及快慢。通过二维水体和物质长期输运速度的对比分析,提出了物质和水体长期输运分离概念:受物质浓度影响,在物质和水体瞬时运动速度相同的情况下,物质和水体潮周期平均对流输运的方向和快慢可能存在差异。本文将二维物质长期输运速度分解为二维水体长期输运速度、二维潮泵输运速度和垂向切变输运速度,它们分别描述余流输运、潮泵输运和垂向切变输运,后两种输运造成单宽断面物质和水体长期输运分离。本文的分析表明,河口受地形、径流、潮流、密度梯度影响,存在有利于物质和水体长期输运分离的自然条件。