直立堤前海床的局部冲刷

对不规则波作用下直立堤前海床的局部冲刷进行了研究。研究了由于波浪作用导致床面的底沙运动,从而造成提前海床的局部冲刷,即所谓的“相对粒沙”的情况。报导了;(1)堤前海床面为水平、堤下无基床情况下的堤前局部冲刷,以及堤下有明基床时基床尺度对堤前局部冲刷的影响;(2)堤前海床面为斜坡面时堤前的局部冲刷,以及当堤下有明基床时基床尺度对堤前局部冲刷的影响;(3)从波浪作用下床面边界层的理论分析出发,对于在不规则波作用下,离堤面愈远处的冲刷坑深度愈小的事实给出了解释。     

潮流场对渤、黄、东海陆架底质分布的控制作用

运用二维潮流数学模型，模拟了渤、黄、东海陆架的M2潮汐、潮流。结果表明，渤、黄、东海陆架的潮流有强弱之分以及往复流和旋转汉之别。在此基础上，计算了8种粒径沙的湖平均悬移输沙率、潮平均推移输沙以及相应的输沙率散度。根据输沙率散度的正负，划分了海底冲刷区与淤积区。根据不同粒径泥沙输沙率散度的相对大小，确定出海底的主要底质类型为砂质沉积、粉砂质泥沉积和以粉砂为主的混合沉积。计算结果表明，海底3种主要底负类型的分布格局与海底的冲淤格局以及与输沙率矢量的发散和聚合状况基本一致。在渤、黄、东海陆架，沙脊主要在强往复流区形成，沙席主要在强或较强的旋转流区形成，泥质沉积主要在弱潮流区形成。砂质沉积、泥质沉积以及混合沉积这3种主要底质类型并非孤立存在，而是受渤、黄、东海陆架潮流场控制而形成的一个完整的潮流沉积体系。渤、黄、东海陆架的砂质沉积与泥质沉积并非残留沉积，而是潮流沉积。在没有冷涡的情况下，黄、东海陆架的典型泥质沉积在弱潮流环境中同样可以形成，因此，认为冷涡并非黄、东海陆架典型泥质沉积形成的必要条件。     

The Interstitial Environment of Sandy Beaches

Abstract. The interstitial system of sandy beaches is lacunar and has its dimensions defined by the sand granulometry. It can be described by features such as pore size, porosity, permeability, and water content. The most important process occurring in this system, water filtration, is driven by inputs of freshwater from groundwater discharge, and inputs of seawater by tides, wave run-up, and subtidal wave pumping. Reflective beaches have seawater input effected mainly by waves; they filter large water volumes with short residence times. Dissipative beaches display the opposite patterns, slowly filtering small volumes input by tides. Flow patterns and their effects on interstitial climate are described. The water table of the beach moves in response to groundwater discharge, tides, and waves and influences erosion/accretion processes on the beach face: a high water table promotes erosion. A series of moisture zones can be recognised from the dry surface sand at upper tide levels, to permanently saturated sand below the low tide water table, namely: a stratum of dry sand, a stratum of retention, a stratum of resurgence, and stratum of saturation. Interstitial chemistry is briefly described in terms of salinity changes, organic loads, oxygen content, and nutrient cycling. It is concluded that the interstitial environment of sandy beaches spans a continuum between physically and chemically controlled extremes: the former condition occurs on coarse sand reflective beaches, which experience low organic inputs and high filtration rates of large water volumes — resulting in powerful hydrodynamic forces; the latter occurs on dissipative beaches of fine sand, which are subject to high organic inputs and low filtration volumes — resulting in stagnation and steep vertical chemical gradients. Many intermediate situations occur and these are more favourable to interstitial life than either of the extremes.     

Shoreface morphodynamics on wave-dominated coasts

An open ocean shoreface typical of long, wave-dominated sandy coasts has been examined through a combination of extensive field measurements of wave and current patterns with computations of marine bedload transport and sedimentation. Sand transport on the upper shoreface is dominantly controlled by waves with only secondary transport by currents. Sand on the middle and lower shoreface, as well as the inner continental shelf is entrained by storm waves and transported by a complex pattern of bottom boundary layer currents.

Storm events have been studied and modeled for the shoreface off Tiana Beach, Long Island. The dominant effect of coastal frontal storms is to cause significant shore-parallel bedload transport with important shore-normal secondary components. These storms tend to result in net offshore transport of sand removed from the beach and surf zone systems. The bedload transport during a storm is convergent on the shoreface leading to accretion. Most accretion occurs on the upper shoreface with lesser deposits covering the middle and lower shoreface as well as the inner continental shelf. Longer-term equilibrium can be maintained by slow return of sand up the shoreface during non-storm conditions.

Annual and geologic time-scale budgets of shoreface sand transport and sedimentation yield equilibrium, net accretion or net deposition. The annual balance results from an integration of the event-scale bedload transport patterns and morphologic responses. These processes and responses have feedback mechanisms which stabilize the system over longer, but not geologic, time scales. Geologic time scale balances are controlled by relative sea level changes and relative availability of sediment supply with the event-scale shoreface and transporting processes providing the mechanism to produce the changes in long-term morphology and sedimentation patterns. In the area of study, the long-term pattern is one of net shoreface erosion, and the permanent loss of sand to the shelf floor.     

立波作用下的底沙运动

立波作用下的底沙运动关系到港口的规划和建筑物的安全。本文以实验为基础，综合前人研究成果，得到立波作用下床面形态及冲刷类型。对较粗颗粒底沙在立波作用上进行受力分析，得到了一周期内沙粒累计推移距离，净输沙率及冲刷强度。认为冲刷形态的不同与近底速度和加速度的分布密切相连。     

Ocean wave transmission by submerged reef—A physical model study

Ocean waves can be destructive as steeper waves due to their high energy eroding the sandy beaches. During storm surge or high tide, the water level rises and if large waves occur, they will break closer to the beach, releasing enormous amount of energy resulting in strong currents. This causes heavy loss of beach material due to large-scale erosion. If these waves are made to break prematurely and away from the beach, they can be attenuated so as to reduce beach erosion. The reef, which is a homogeneous pile of armour units without a core, breaks the steeper ocean waves, dissipates a major portion of their energy and transmits attenuated waves. This paper experimentally investigates the armour stone stability of the submerged reef and the influence of its varying distance from shore and crest width on ocean wave transmission.     

Beach erosion along the coastline of Alexandria, Egypt

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Sea ripple formation: the heterogeneous sediment case

Ripple formation beneath sea waves is analyzed both by experimental and analytical means when the bottom is made up of a mixture of sands. An oscillatory flow is obtained in a closed duct by the oscillations of two rigidly connected pistons located at the ends of the duct. The amplitude and period of the oscillations can be continuously varied. A fixed tray, located at the bottom of the duct and filled with different types of sediments, allows ripple formation to be observed. The presence of graded sediments is found to have a stabilizing effect and causes longer ripples to appear. Moreover a selective sediment transport is observed and quantified which tends to pile up the coarse grains at ripple crests leaving the fine ones in the troughs. As in the companion paper, the theory is based on a linear stability analysis of a flat sandy bottom subject to an oscillatory flow. Because of the presence of a mixture, a modified version of Exner equation is used and an “hiding” factor should be inserted in the sediment transport rate formula. The flow regime in the bottom boundary layer is assumed to be turbulent. The conditions for ripple appearance are determined along with their wavelengths as they form. Good agreement is found between experimental data and theoretical findings.     

Recent and modern marine erosion on the New Jersey outer shelf

Recent chirp seismic reflection data combined with multibeam bathymetry, backscatter, and analysis of grab samples and short cores provide evidence of significant recent erosion on the outer New Jersey shelf. The timing of erosion is constrained by two factors: (1) truncation at the seafloor of what is interpreted to be the transgressive ravinement surface at the base of the surficial sand sheet, and (2) truncation of apparently moribund sand ridges along erosional swales oriented parallel to the primary direction of modern bottom flow and oblique to the strike of the sand ridges. These observations place the erosion in a marine setting, post-dating the passage of the shoreface ravinement and the evolution of sand ridges that form initially in the near shore environment. Also truncated by marine erosion are shallowly buried, fluvial channel systems, formed during the Last Glacial Maximum and filled during the transgression, and a regional reflector “R” that is > ∼ 40 kyr. Depths of erosion range from a few meters to > 10 m. The seafloor within eroded areas is often marked by “ribbon” morphology, seen primarily in the backscatter data as areas of alternating high and low backscatter elongated in the direction of primary bottom flow. Ribbons are more occasionally observed in the bathymetry; where observed, crests exhibit low backscatter and troughs exhibit high backscatter. Sampling reveals that the high backscatter areas of the ribbons consist of a trimodal admixture of mud, sand and shell hash, with a bimodal distribution of abraded and unabraded sand grains and microfauna. The shell hash is interpreted to be an erosional lag, while the muds and unabraded grains are, in this non-depositional environment, evidence of recent erosion at the seafloor of previously undisturbed strata. The lower-backscatter areas of the ribbon morphology were found to be a well-sorted medium sand unit only a few 10's of cm thick overlying the shelly/muddy/sandy material. Concentrations of well-rounded gravels and cobbles were also found in eroded areas with very high backscatter, and at least one of these appears to be derived from the base of an eroded fluvial channel. Seafloor reworking over the transgressive evolution of the shelf appears to have switched from sand ridge evolution, which is documented to ∼ 40 m water depth, to more strictly erosional modification at greater water depths. We suggest that this change may be related to the reduction with water depth in the effectiveness of sediment resuspension by waves. Resuspension is a critical factor in the grain size sorting during transport by bottom currents over large bedforms like sand ridges. Otherwise, we speculate, displacement of sand by unidirectional currents will erode the seafloor.     

A note on the accuracy of the mild-slope equation

The mild-slope equation is a vertically integrated refraction-diffraction equation, used to predict wave propagation in a region with uneven bottom. As its name indicates, it is based on the assumption of a mild bottom slope. The purpose of this paper is to examine the accuracy of this equation as a function of the bottom slope. To this end a number of numerical experiments is carried out comparing solutions of the three-dimensional wave equation with solutions of the mild-slope equation.For waves propagating parallel to the depth contours it turns out that the mild-slope equation produces accurate results even if the bottom slope is of order 1. For waves propagating normal to the depth contours the mild-slope equation is less accurate. The equation can be used for a bottom inclination up to 1:3.     

An efficient method for the numerical calculation of viscous effects on transient long waves

Previous studies have shown that the Boussinesq equations can be used to calculate the instantaneous bottom shear stress induced by transient or periodic waves. The bottom friction term occurs as a convolution integral in time in the continuity equation. The exact numerical integration of a convolution integral demands large computational resources, which makes the method less useful for large scale computations. In this paper we explore how the value of the convolution integral can be estimated if we only use the values of the variables in a limited number of time steps, and discuss the accuracy and computational cost of this method.     

Effect of the kelp Laminaria hyperborea upon sand dune erosion and water particle velocities

This paper presents a set of results from a laboratory study on water wave propagation above submerged vegetation growing in the surf zone and the effect of submerged vegetation on dune erosion. The study has focused on the kelp Laminaria hyperborea. The reason is that this kelp is commercially harvested along the Norwegian coast and there is a need to obtain better knowledge on the possible consequences of this harvesting. Experiments were run with irregular waves over a sloping bottom, and a kelp field was simulated by 5000 artificial kelp plants in a 1:10 scale. The experiments primarily focused on the effect of kelp upon erosion of a sand dune, wave damping and water velocities. It was found that the water level is a very important factor to the degree of dune erosion, while the kelp has only a minor effect. The kelp does, however, cause significant wave damping and the degree of wave breaking is reduced. It was also found that the kelp modifies the water velocity profile. In a region above the kelp canopy layer, the time-averaged water velocity was shoreward, while the seaward undertow was confined to a region higher up in the water column.     

Sediment waves on the South China Sea Slope off southwestern Taiwan: Implications for the intrusion of the Northern Pacific Deep Water into the South China Sea

Using an integrated multi-beam bathymetry, high-resolution seismic profile, piston core, and AMS ¹⁴C dating data set, the current study identified two sediment wave fields, fields 1 and 2, on the South China Sea Slope off southwestern Taiwan. Field 1 is located in the lower slope, and sediment waves within it are overall oriented perpendicular to the direction of down-slope gravity flows and canyon axis. Geometries, morphology, and internal seismic reflection configurations suggest that the sediment waves in field 1 underwent significant up-slope migration. Field 2, in contrast, is located more basinward, on the continental rise. Instead of having asymmetrical morphology and discontinuous reflections as observed in field 1, the sediment waves in field 2 show more symmetrical morphology and continuous reflections that can be traced from one wave to another, suggesting that vertical aggradation is more active and predominant than up-slope migration.Three sediment wave evolution stages, stage 1 through stage 3, are identified in both field 1 and field 2. During stage 1, the sediment waves are built upon a regional unconformity that separates the underlying mass-transport complexes from the overlying sediment waves. In both of these two fields, there is progressive development of the sediment waves and increase in wave dimensions from the oldest stage 1 to the youngest stage 3, even though up-slope migration is dominant in field 1 whereas vertical aggradation is predominant in field 2 throughout these three stages.The integrated data and the depositional model show that the upper slope of the study area is strongly dissected and eroded by down-slope gravity flows. The net result of strong erosion is that significant amounts of sediment are transported further basinward into the lower slope by gravity flows and/or turbidity currents. The interactions of these currents with bottom (contour) currents induced by the intrusion of the Northern Pacific Deep Water into the South China Sea and preexisting wavy topography in the lower slope result in the up-slope migrating sediment waves in field 1 and the contourites as observed from cores TS01 and TS02. Further basinward on the continental rise, turbidity currents are waned and diluted, whereas along-slope bottom (contour) currents are vigorous and most likely dominate over the diluted turbidity currents, resulting in the vertically aggraded sediment waves in field 2.The results from this study also provide the further evidence for the intrusion of the Northern Pacific Deep Water into the South China Sea and suggest that this intrusion has probably existed and been capable of affecting sedimentation in South China Sea at least since Quaternary.     

Origin of rippled scour depressions associated with cohesive sediments in a shoreface setting (eastern Bay of Seine, France)

Side-scan sonar investigations in the eastern part of the macrotidal Bay of Seine have revealed the presence of numerous rippled scour depressions (RSDs) at water depths of 5–9 m. The sediments in these depressions consist essentially of coarse-grained shell hash derived from underlying Holocene sediments dated at roughly 6,500 years BP, and arranged in large wave-generated ripples. The shallow marine area where these features occur consists of a wave-generated ravinement surface produced during the marine flooding of the late Holocene transgression. It can be shown that, during the last 20 years at least, erosion of the muddy sand and sandy seabed has exposed underlying relict sediments. These consist of stiff clays, silts and a layer of shell debris which, when exposed, cover the bottom of large scour depressions which appear to be in equilibrium with the local hydrodynamic regime. Morphological and hydrodynamic data suggest that the RSDs are generated by strong cross-shore bottom currents flowing parallel to the features in the direction of the prevailing waves, and probably associated with storm-induced downwelling events.     

Subsurface control on seafloor erosional processes offshore of the Chandeleur Islands,Louisiana

The Chandeleur Islands lie on the eastern side of the modern Mississippi River delta plain, near the edge of the St. Bernard Delta complex. Since abandonment approximately 2,000 years b.p., this delta complex has undergone subsidence and ravinement as the shoreline has transgressed across it. High-resolution seismic-reflection, sidescan-sonar, and bathymetry data show that seafloor erosion is influenced by locally variable shallow stratigraphy. The data reveal two general populations of shallow erosional depressions, either linear or subcircular in shape. Linear depressions occur primarily where sandy distributary-channel deposits are exposed on the seafloor. The subcircular pits are concentrated in areas where delta-front deposits crop out, and occasional seismic blanking indicates that gas is present. The difference in erosional patterns suggests that delta-front and distributary-channel deposits respond uniquely to wave and current energy expended on the inner shelf, particularly during stormy periods. Linear depressions may be the result of the sandy distributary-channel deposits eroding more readily by waves and coastal currents than the surrounding delta-front deposits. Pits may develop as gas discharge or liquefaction occurs within fine-grained delta-front deposits, causing seafloor collapse. These detailed observations suggest that ravinement of this inner shelf surface may be ongoing, is controlled by the underlying stratigraphy, and has varied morphologic expression.     

The characteristic and prediction of scour in front of breakwaters by standing waves

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Impacts of storms and evolution of the coastline in western France

The morphological impact of storms on coastal accumulations varies considerably in space along the coast of western France. At some locations, the storm produces erosion, whereas at others, impacts may vary from erosion to accumulation, or no effect. This is explained by the variability of incident waves. Wave amplitude variability, cross-checked with wave direction variability, is presented on a phase diagram and shows that the response of the coast is not linked to the absolute values reached during the storm, but to changes in wave patterns that take place during the event. The morphology of the bottom (skerries, banks) is greatly forcing these changes because of the high tidal range and the complicated and fast-changing patterns of refraction. Locations with a flat seafloor have an almost predictable response to storms. Places with a complex submarine morphology have a response characterized by high variability. The variability of the wave pattern during a half tidal cycle storm (from low tide at 1 m to high tide at 13 m in 6 h) is a microscale equivalent of the variability of wave patterns changing during sea level rise in the Holocene (from −7 to 0 m in 6 ka). This fact explains why, during the late Holocene, the same locations (1) have displayed a very chaotic response to sea level rise and (2) are displaying, today, a highly variable response to storms. In that respect, seafloor morphology is a mesoscale to macroscale control on beach/barrier behaviour.     

基于原位观测的胶州湾沉积物侵蚀再悬浮过程研究

海洋动力作用下,河口海岸地区海床通常处于动态变化之中。作为地质环境的控制因素,海床沉积物侵蚀再悬浮过程的研究具有重要意义。为阐明胶州湾海域水动力条件对海床侵蚀再悬浮的作用,本文利用海底原位观测三脚架进行了现场观测。观测结果显示：通常条件下,潮流导致的最大海床剪应力可达0.35 N/m²,高于波浪引起的剪应力。涨潮期间,海床发生侵蚀;退潮期间,海床发生淤积。风速达到5 m/s时,波浪引起的剪应力近似等于流致剪应力。风速达到7 m/s时,有效波高为26 cm,波浪对海床侵蚀再悬浮过程起主要作用;此时也会导致海水浊度显著上升,高于通常条件下的2-8倍。分析表明：通常条件下,周期性海流影响海床侵蚀再悬浮过程;而大幅度沉积物再悬浮过程由偶发的波浪事件控制。针对胶州湾沉积物动力学机制的深入研究仍待进一步开展。     

海南岛东南浅海表层沉积物粒度特征及沉积环境

对海南岛东南浅海377组表层沉积物样品(平均水深112.3 m)开展粒度测定及沉积物类型划分,并运用统计规律及沉积输运趋势分析,探讨了底质沉积物分布格局与物质来源及沉积动力环境关系.结果表明,海南岛东南浅海沉积物类型复杂,共分布13种沉积物类型,粒度组成以粉砂和砂为主,平均粒径均值为5.73Φ,优势粒级为细粉砂级(6～...     

Experimental study of turbulent oscillatory boundary layers in an oscillating water tunnel

A high-quality experimental study including a large number of tests which correspond to full-scale coastal boundary layer flows is conducted using an oscillating water tunnel for flow generations and a Particle Image Velocimetry system for velocity measurements. Tests are performed for sinusoidal, Stokes and forward-leaning waves over three fixed bottom roughness configurations, i.e. smooth, “sandpaper” and ceramic-marble bottoms. The experimental results suggest that the logarithmic profile can accurately represent the boundary layer flows in the very near-bottom region, so the log-profile fitting analysis can give highly accurate determinations of the theoretical bottom location and the bottom roughness. The first-harmonic velocities of both sinusoidal and nonlinear waves, as well as the second-harmonic velocities of nonlinear waves, exhibit similar patterns of vertical variation. Two dimensionless characteristic boundary layer thicknesses, the elevation of 1% velocity deficit and the elevation of maximum amplitude, are found to have power-law dependencies on the relative roughness for rough bottom tests. A weak boundary layer streaming embedded in nonlinear waves and a small but meaningful third-harmonic velocity embedded in sinusoidal waves are observed. They can be only explained by the effect of a time-varying turbulent eddy viscosity. The measured period-averaged vertical velocities suggest the presence of Prandtl's secondary flows of the second kind in the test channel. Among the three methods to infer bottom shear stress from velocity measurements, the Reynolds stress method underestimates shear stress due to missed turbulent eddies, and the momentum integral method also significantly underestimates bottom shear stress for rough bottom tests due to secondary flows, so only the log-profile fitting method is considered to yield the correct estimate. The obtained bottom shear stresses are analyzed to give the maximum and the first three harmonics, and the results are used to validate some existing theoretical models.