Statistical distribution of nonlinear random water wave surface elevation

This study deals with the development of statistical modeling for water wave surface elevation by using a method that combines a dynamic solution with random process statistics. Ocean wave data taken from four NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) buoys moored in the northeast Pacific were used to validate the model. The results indicated that the nonlinear probability density distribution of ocean wave surface elevation derived from the model described the measurements much better than Gaussian distribution and Longuet-Higgins distribution.     

Elimination of the impact of vessels on ocean wave height inversion with X-band wave monitoring radar

Directional wave spectra and integrated wave parameters can be derived from X-band radar sea surface images.A vessel on the sea surface has a significant influence on wave parameter inversions that can be seen as intensive backscatter speckles in X-band wave monitoring radar sea surface images.A novel algorithm to eliminate the interference of vessels in ocean wave height inversions from X-band wave monitoring radar is proposed.This algorithm is based on the characteristics of the interference.The principal components(PCs) of a sea surface image sequence are extracted using empirical orthogonal function(EOF)analysis.The standard deviation of the PCs is then used to identify vessel interference within the image sequence.To mitigate the interference,a suppression method based on a frequency domain geometric model is applied.The algorithm framework has been applied to OSMAR-X,a wave monitoring system developed by Wuhan University,based on nautical X-band radar.Several sea surface images captured on vessels by OSMAR-X are processed using the method proposed in this paper.Inversion schemes are validated by comparisons with data from in situ wave buoys.The root-mean-square error between the significant wave heights(SWH) retrieved from original interference radar images and those measured by the buoy is reduced by 0.25 m.The determinations of surface gravity wave parameters,in particular SWH,confirm the applicability of the proposed method.     

Probabilistic Methods for Reliability Assessment of Floating Structures Based on Extreme Wave Simulation

With the increasing application of floating platforms in deep waters and harsh environments,a proper assessment of the reliability of floating structures is important to ensure that these structures can operate safely during their design lives.This study outlines a practical methodology for reliability analysis of a semi-submersible platform based estimating the probability distribution of the extreme response in rough sea conditions(survival conditions).The Constrained NewWave(CNW)theory combined with Monte Carlo simulations was first applied to simulate the random wave surface elevation process in the time domain.A Gumbel distribution was the best fitting to describe the dynamically sensitive extreme response statistics under extreme waves(drift and mooring tension).The derived probability distribution of the extreme response was subsequently used in estimation of the associated limit state func-tion,and a reliability analysis of the floating structure was conducted using the Monte Carlo method.A semi-submersible platform in a water depth of 1500 m subjected to extreme wave loads was used to demonstrate the efficiency of the proposed methodology.The probability of failure of the semi-submersible when considering mooring lines tension is greater than considering drift.     

The Influence of wave state and sea spray on drag coefficient from low to high wind speeds

Ocean waves alter the roughness of sea surface, and sea spray droplets redistribute the momentum flux at the air-sea interface. Hence, both wave state and sea spray influence sea surface drag coefficient. Based on the new sea spray generation function which depends on sea surface wave, a wave-dependent sea spray stress is obtained. According to the relationship between sea spray stress and the total wind stress on the sea surface, a new formula of drag coefficient at high wind speed is acquired. With the analysis of the new drag coefficient, it is shown that the drag coefficient reduces at high wind speed, indicating that the sea spray droplets can limit the increase of drag coefficient. However, the value of high wind speed corresponding to the initial reduced drag coefficient is not fixed, and it depends on the wave state, which means the influence of wave cannot be ignored. Comparisons between the theoretical and measured sea surface drag coefficients in field and laboratory show that under different wave ages, the theoretical result of drag coefficient could include the measured data, and it means that the new drag coefficient can be used properly from low to high wind speeds under any wave state condition.     

Measurements of sea ice thickness and its subice morphology analysis using ice-penetration radar in the Arctic Ocean

1　IntroductionSeaice ,asanimportantcomponentoftheArcticclimatesystem ,hasdrawnsignifi cantscientificinterest.Seaicethicknessanditsmorphologyhavedramaticimpactsono cean atmosphere iceinteractions(Wadhams 1 994;Barryetal.1 993 ;Dickson 1 999;PadhamsandNorman 2 0 0 0 ) ,whichdirectlyaffecttheexchangeprocessandspeedofheatandmassbetweentheoceanandtheatmosphere ,dominatethephysicalmechanicsfea turesofseaice ,andaffecttheseaicemovement&deformationaswellasicefreezing&meltingprocess(Hollandetal.1 99…     

Energy dissipation through wind-generated breaking waves

Wave breaking is an important process that controls turbulence properties and fluxes of heat and mass in the upper oceanic layer.A model is described for energy dissipation per unit area at the ocean surface attributed to wind-generated breaking waves,in terms of ratio of energy dissipation to energy input,windgenerated wave spectrum,and wave growth rate.Also advanced is a vertical distribution model of turbulent kinetic energy,based on an exponential distribution method.The result shows that energy dissipation rate depends heavily on wind speed and sea state.Our results agree well with predictions of previous works.     

基于卫星测高和卫星遥感海面温度探测的南海中尺度涡旋对比分析

基于海表面温度数据和海面高度异常数据,采用矢量几何法提取南海的中尺度涡旋并进行统计分析。结果显示,从海表面温度和海面高度异常数据都可以提取涡旋,两者的提取能力差异很小。由海表面温度数据可以提取较小尺度的涡旋,但跟踪涡旋时存在不稳定性;由海面高度异常数据虽然不能检测到较小尺度的涡旋,但跟踪涡旋相对稳定。两种数据所提取涡旋的时间和空间分布规律具有一致性。     

Coastal upwelling and coastal jets in continuously stratified seas

Nonlinear numerical models of continuously stratified seas are developed for vertical sections to study the mechanism of coastal upwelling and coastal jets in two kinds of seas: the so-called finite or closed sea bounded by two vertical coastal coasts, without elevation of sea surface, but with a flat bottom; and the semi-infinite sea bounded by only one vertical coast, with both an elevation of sea surface and a flat or inclined bottom. Constant wind stress in the first case, and constant wind stress or negative wind stress curl in the second case, are abruptly imposed. The key procedure for the mathematical analysis is to calculate the horizontal pressure gradient first by a special treatment. In the first case, the variation of horizontal components of velocity is changed with time to show three successive time intervals. The results show that the width of baroclinic jets depends upon (σS)^1/2, and that distribution of isopycnic lines delineates the warm and cold regions. The relative importance of each term in the equilibrium among forces is thus determined. Distribution of stream function in vertical section reveals the upper and bottom Ekman layers. Two coastal jets are found with different alongshore velocities. The distribution of density anomalies displays the horizontal diffusion adjustment. An unstable case appears at different surface boundary conditions. In the second case, the vertical velocity will be stronger in the sea with less stratification, with an inclined bottom, and with a negative wind stress curl. The horizonatal offshore velocity increases in strength in a sea with inclined bottom and with negative wind stress curl. The vertical circulation pattern reveals the upwelling only. The distribution of density shows the isopycnic lines lifted upward near the shores. Obviously, the range of elevation of sea surface near the shore is larger than that far offshore. The jet width is less than the Rossby radius of deformation. A stronger jet will occur in more shallow water with negative wind stress curl. The coastal jet does not develop when the coefficient of horizontal turbulence increases to a certain limiting value.     

利用RTK进行多波束水深测量时GPS高程数据的处理

利用RTK进行多波束水深测量时,GPS高程在提供瞬时垂直基准方面起着重要的作用。海上实际作业过程中,GPS信号经常会发生失锁现象,造成部分历元高程数据突变,导致海底地形失真。该文以茂名某项目为例,首先介绍了根据EGM2008大地水准面模型,利用高程拟合法将多波束水深测量时GPS椭球高转换为正常高的方法;然后针对GPS信号失锁现象,提出了利用RTK高程中的固定解来求算海水潮位面的方法,同时阐述了该方法的优势。     

Comparison and error analysis of remotely measured waveheight by high frequency ground wave radar

High frequency ground wave radar (HFGWR) has unique advantage in the survey of dynamical factors, such as sea surface current, sea wave, and sea surface wind in marine conditions in coastal sea area. Compared to marine satellite remote sensing, it involves lower cost, has higher measuring accuracy and spatial resolution and sampling frequency. High frequency ground wave radar is a new land based remote sensing instrument with superior vision and greater application potentials. This paper reviews the development history and application status of high frequency wave radar, introduces its remote-sensing principle and method to inverse offshore fluid, and wave and wind field. Based on the author's "863 Project", this paper recounts comparison and verification of radar remote-sensing value, the physical calibration of radar-measured data and methods to control the quality of radar-sensing data. The authors discuss the precision of radar-sensing data's inversing on offshore fluid field and application of the assimilated data on assimilation.     

A New Multigrid 3D-VAR Optimization Method for Bottom Friction Using HF Radar Current Observation

This paper proposes a new method for data assimilation of the surface radial current observed by High Frequency ground wave radar and optimization of the bottom friction coefficient. In this method, the shallow water wave equation is introduced into the cost function of the multigrid three-dimensional variation data assimilation method as the weak constraint term, the surface current and the bottom friction coefficient are defined as the analytical variables, and the high spatiotemporal resolution surface radial flow observed by the high-frequency ground wave radar is used to optimize the surface current and bottom friction coefficient. This method can effectively consider the spatiotemporal correlation of radar data and extract multiscale information from surface radial flow data from long waves to short waves. Introducing the shallow water wave equation into the cost function as a weak constraint condition can adjust both the momentum and mass fields simultaneously to obtain more reasonable analysis information. The optimized bottom friction coefficient is introduced into the regional ocean numerical model to carry out numerical experiments. The test results show that the bottom friction coefficient obtained by this method can effectively improve the accuracy of the numerical simulation of sea surface height in the offshore area and reduce the simulation error.     

Measurements of ocean wave and current field using dual polarized X-band radar

A new ocean wave and sea surface current monitoring system with horizontally-(HH) and vertically-(VV) polarized X-band radar was developed. Two experiments into the use of the radar system were carried out at two sites, respectively, for calibration process in Zhangzi Island of the Yellow Sea, and for validation in the Yellow Sea and South China Sea. Ocean wave parameters and sea surface current velocities were retrieved from the dual polarized radar image sequences based on an inverse method. The results obtained from dual-polarized radar data sets acquired in Zhangzi Island are compared with those from an ocean directional buoy. The results show that ocean wave parameters and sea surface current velocities retrieved from radar image sets are in a good agreement with those observed by the buoy. In particular, it has been found that the vertically-polarized radar is better than the horizontally-polarized radar in retrieving ocean wave parameters, especially in detecting the significant wave height below 1.0 m.     

The making of holograms of the sun’s glitter and the extraction of the normal “glitter” pattern (NGP) of sea waves

A proposal, an analysis and an experiment are presented for extracting the normal direction data of random sea waves by reconstructing the reflected light rays from sea surface with an airborne image of the sun’s glitter. The slope distribution of the random sea waves can be determind quantitatively, simply and directly by means of this method.     

Effects of vegetation type on surface elevation change in Liaohe River Delta wetlands facing accelerated sea level rise

Rising sea levels threaten the sustainability of coastal wetlands around the globe. The ability of coastal marshes to maintain their position in the intertidal zone depends on the accumulation of both organic and inorganic materials, and vegetation is important in these processes. To study the effects of vegetation type on surface elevation change, we measured surface accretion and elevation change from 2011 to 2016 using rod surface elevation table and feldspar marker horizon method(RSET-MH) in two Phragmites and two Suaeda marshes in the Liaohe River Delta. The Phragmites marshes exhibited higher rates of surface accretion and elevation change than the Suaeda marshes. The two Phragmites marsh sites had average surface elevation change rates at 8.78 mm/yr and 9.26 mm/yr and surface accretion rates at 17.56 mm/yr and 17.88 mm/yr, respectively. At the same time, the two Suaeda marsh sites had average surface elevation change rates at 5.77 mm/yr and 5.91 mm/yr and surface accretion rates at 13.42 mm/yr and 14.38 mm/yr, respectively. The elevation change rates in both the Phragmites marshes and the Suaeda marshes in the Liaohe River Delta could keep pace and even continue to gain elevation relative to averaged sea level rise in the Bohai Sea reported by the 2016 State Oceanic Administration, People's Republic of China projection(2.4–5.5 mm/yr) in current situations. Our data suggest that vegetation is important in the accretionary processes and vegetation type could regulate the wetland surface elevation. However, the vulnerability of coastal wetlands in the Liaohe River Delta need further assessment considering the accelerated sea level rise, the high rate of subsidence, and the declining sediment delivery, especially for the Suaeda marshes.     

A joint method to retrieve directional ocean wave spectra from SAR and wave spectrometer data

This paper proposes a joint method to simultaneously retrieve wave spectra at dif ferent scales from spaceborne Synthetic Aperture Radar(SAR) and wave spectrometer data. The method combines the output from the two dif ferent sensors to overcome retrieval limitations that occur in some sea states. The wave spectrometer sensitivity coeffi cient is estimated using an ef fective signifi cant wave height(SWH), which is an average of SAR-derived and wave spectrometer-derived SWH. This averaging extends the area of the sea surface sampled by the nadir beam of the wave spectrometer to improve the accuracy of the estimated sensitivity coeffi cient in inhomogeneous sea states. Wave spectra are then retrieved from SAR data using wave spectrometer-derived spectra as fi rst guess spectra to complement the short waves lost in SAR data retrieval. In addition, the problem of 180° ambiguity in retrieved spectra is overcome using SAR imaginary cross spectra. Simulated data were used to validate the joint method. The simulations demonstrated that retrieved wave parameters, including SWH, peak wave length(PWL), and peak wave direction(PWD), agree well with reference parameters. Collocated data from ENVISAT advanced SAR(ASAR), the airborne wave spectrometer STORM, the PHAROS buoy, and the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasting(ECMWF) were then used to verify the proposed method. Wave parameters retrieved from STORM and two ASAR images were compared to buoy and ECMWF wave data. Most of the retrieved parameters were comparable to reference parameters. The results of this study show that the proposed joint retrieval method could be a valuable complement to traditional methods used to retrieve directional ocean wave spectra, particularly in inhomogeneous sea states.     

Wave Pressure Acting on V-Shaped Floating Breakwater in Random Seas

Wave pressure on the wet surface of a V-shaped floating breakwater in random seas is investigated. Considering the diffraction effect, the unit velocity potential caused by the single regular waves around the breakwater is solved using the finite-depth Green function and boundary element method, in which the Green function is solved by integral method. The Response-Amplitude Operator(RAO) of wave pressure is acquired according to the Longuet-Higgins' wave model and the linear Bernoulli equation. Furthermore, the wave pressure's response spectrum is calculated according to the wave spectrum by discretizing the frequency domain. The wave pressure's characteristic value corresponding to certain cumulative probability is determined according to the Rayleigh distribution of wave heights. The numerical results and field test results are compared, which indicates that the wave pressure calculated in random seas agrees with that of field measurements. It is found that the bigger angle between legs will cause the bigger pressure response, while the increase in leg length does not influence the pressure significantly. The pressure at the side of head sea is larger than that of back waves. When the incident wave angle changes from 0? to 90?, the pressure at the side of back waves decreases clearly, while at the side of head sea, the situation is more complicated and there seems no obvious tendency. The concentration of wave energy around low frequency(long wavelength) will induce bigger wave pressure, and more attention should be paid to this situation for the structure safety.     

A combined model of wind, wave, tide and storm surges

A combined numerical model of wind, wave, tide, and storm surges was built on the basis of the “wind field model in limited sea surface areas”. When used to forecast the sea surface wind, wave height and water level, it can describe them very well. Contribution No. 4108 from the Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences. This work supported by Stress Project (KZ952-S1-420), Chinese Academy of Sciences; 863 Project (863-818-06-05), and (863-818-Q-07)     

基于TRACK的GPS海浪测量方法

针对现有GPS海浪测量技术的不足,提出基于TRACK的GPS海浪测量方法,即利用TRACK解得海上载体高精度的垂向位移,经浪潮分离提取海浪信号,采用周期图法估计海浪信号的功率谱,计算海浪要素。利用实测数据进行实验,结果表明,平均波高和平均周期与测波仪结果差异分别小于2 cm和0.25 s,验证了本文方法的有效性。     

Analysis on monthly-averaged distribution of sea surface wind and wave over the seas southeast of Asia using ERS-2 scatterometer data

The wind system over the seas southeast of Asia (SSEA) plays an important role in China's climate variation. In this paper, ERS scatterometer winds covering the period from January 2000 to December 2000 and the area of 2-41 °N, 105- 130°E were analyzed with a distance-weighting interpolation method and the monthly mean distribution of the sea surface wind speed were given. The seasonal characteristics of winds in the SSEA were analyzed. Based on WAVEWATCH Ⅲ model, distribution of significant wave height was calculated.     

基于光滑粒子流体动力学算法的海浪建模仿真研究

针对传统海浪建模方法中存在海洋表面真实感差、计算复杂的问题,本文进行了基于光滑粒子流体动力学算法（SPH）与移动立方体算法（MC）相结合的海浪建模仿真研究。通过基于空间网格的粒子分配,建立了粒子群单向列表存储结构,在海浪粒子物理量计算时,实现了其光滑核半径内粒子群的快速检索,并基于拉格朗日流体控制方程,进行了海浪粒子受力分析及状态计算;在模拟海浪与环境障碍物碰撞时,将碰撞问题简化为粒子在一定时间段内所经过的路径与障碍物表面三角面片是否相交来进行判定,并假设粒子为理想刚体,采用改进的欧拉方法实现了粒子新位置的动态计算;为增强海浪流体模拟的真实感,在移动立方体节点密度动态计算基础上,依据确定的海浪表面密度阈值,耦合MC算法进行了海浪表面的动态提取,从而实现了海浪三维表面建模与动态演变仿真。通过模拟验证了该算法的时效性与可行性,可为海洋环境信息三维可视化提供一定的参考。