A new view of near-shore dynamics based on observations from HF Radar

Since 1984 the OSCR HF Radar system has been used in over 50 deployments to measure near-shore surface currents for both scientific and engineering applications. The enhanced scope, resolution and accuracy of these measurements have yielded new insights into the tidal, wind and density driven dynamics of the near-shore zone.Tidal current ellipses obtained from these radar measurements have been shown to be in good aggrement with values calculated by numerical models both for the predominant constituents and also for higher harmonics. Coherent patterns of wind-forced currents ahve been determined with strong evidence of a “slab-like” surface response. In one deployment, with offshore winds blowing over relatively deep water, this “slab” rotated clockwise at near-inertial frequency. Strong (up to 20cm s⁻¹), persistent surface residual currents are commonly observed, these are almost certainly generated by (small) horizontal density gradients. These observed surface residuals provide ideal data for rigorous testing of 3-D numerical models.With a threatened rise in sea level, HF Radar is well-suited for observing the expected changes in the dynamics of near-shore regions. Continuing development of these radar systems offers exciting prospects of remote sensing of both surface waves and currents. Future applications may extend beyond the near-shore region to measurements along the shelf-edge, in oceanic gyres and for “beach-processes”.     

福建海区的潮汐和潮流

本文根据实测资料和潮汐学基本理论,分析了福建海区潮波结构和特征、潮汐和潮流主要特征值的分布规律。结果表明,泉州湾以北海区潮汐很强,为半日潮;港湾区因受地形影响潮流很强,性质为半日潮;外海区潮流很弱,性质多为混合潮。福建南部海区潮汐很弱,性质多数是混合潮;潮流很强,性质为半日潮。     

A Continuous Mapping of Tidal Current Structures in the Kanmon Strait

Tidal current structures at the Hayatomono-Seto of the Kanmon Strait are mapped continuously during March 17 to 20, 2003, including a spring tide, by the eight coastal acoustic tomography (CAT) systems distributed on both the sides of the strait. Detailed structures of strong tidal currents and their associated vortices are well reconstructed by the inverse analysis of travel-time difference data obtained from the reciprocal sound transmission between the paired CAT systems located at both sides of the strait mainly. The results are well compared to the shipboard acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) data at the correlation rate of 0.84/0.82 and the RMS difference of 0.47/0.48 ms⁻¹ for the east-west/north-south current after the selection of good data. During the observation period, the maximum hourly mean volume transport for the upper 7 m layer across the strait reached 13,314 m³ s⁻¹ for the eastward and 5,547 m³ s⁻¹ for the westward. The daily mean transport is directed to the eastward and estimated 1,470 m³ s⁻¹ and 2,140 m³ s⁻¹ for March 18 and 19, respectively, when a spring tide occurs.     

Tidal fluctuation of the surface currents of the Kuroshio in the East China Sea

Significant fluctuations of the currents of the tidal frequencies have been detected in the Kuroshio Current northeast of Taiwan and in the Tokara Strait, with total amplitudes comparable to the mean surface current (about 4050 cm s⁻¹). At the continental shelf the tidal signal varies considerably with distance from the axis of the Kuroshio. Tidal ellipses on the continental shelf consistently have major axes in the northwest-southeast direction. Because tidal signals in the Kuroshio regions have very small spatial scales, they may not be caused by the barotropic tide but the baroclinic tide. It is inferred that the Kuroshio interacts with the baroclinic tides over the continental slope.     

Nocdap results: On the relationship of extreme waves and currents for design of offshore structures

Simultaneous wind, wave, and current data during 21 storms spanning four winters at Tromsøflaket (230 m depth) were analysed to determine joint probabilities of occurrence. Waves were measured with a Waverider Buoy, winds with a recording anemometer onboard a vessel and currents at up to five depths with Aandera RCM-4 current meters. Measured currents were filtered to separate tidal currents from residual currents. In most of the statistical analyses, the actual current profiles were replaced with a simplified “equivalent” profile (constant above 50 m depth) whose magnitude was chosen to give the same drag load on a single pile as the actual profile when both profiles were combined with wave orbital velocities. The data suggest that the equivalent current is weakly correlated with the wave height. Within the range of the data analysed, an in-line equivalent residual current of 30 cm sec⁻¹ is adequate for design drag force calculations.The data presented here are used to illustrate a procedure for data analysis and are not suitable for use as design criteria.     

Observation of internal tidal currents in the Kaoping Canyon off southwestern Taiwan

Internal tidal currents and associated water-mass displacements were investigated during multiple cruises in the Kaoping Submarine Canyon off southwestern Taiwan. Observations from both moored and shipboard Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers and hydrographic casts were conducted along the canyon. The velocity data showed that in the lower layer the major axis of the tidal currents aligned with the orientation of the canyon, and currents moved up-canyon during flood and down-canyon during ebb. The vertical-phase shift and amplitude of the currents indicated that the semidiurnal internal tide dominated with intensity increasing with depth toward the canyon head. Tidal energy was channeled from the shelf landward with a beamlike internal wave, guided by bottom topography. The estimated phase velocity was 1.4–1.7 m s⁻¹, based on normal mode analysis and the phase lag between sampling stations. Empirical orthogonal function analysis of hydrographic profiles confirmed that the first mode (M₂ internal tide) explained 70% of the total variance. The strong convergence of internal tidal currents near the canyon head during flood may play an important role in the daily migration of cherry shrimps, which burrow along the canyon wall.     

Evidence for predominance of internal tidal currents in Sagami and Suruga bays

Tidal currents observed in a surface layer overlying deep water in Sagami and Suruga Bays frequently have large amplitude in summer and fall. Numerical experiments show that the current amplitude due to the surface tides is below 1.0 cm sec^–1 for the semidiurnal and diurnal constituents in the inner region of the two bays. The observed current amplitudes are larger than the calculated ones due to the surface tides. Therefore, the observed tidal currents are indicated to be due mainly to the internal tides. In addition, the semidiurnal currents dominate the diurnal currents in Sagami Bay, while the opposite occurs in Suruga Bay. These results suggest that the prevailing periods of the internal tides differ between the two bays,i.e., the internal tide has a semidiurnal period in Sagami Bay and a diurnal period in Suruga Bay.     

Numerical modelling of Lagrangian residual current in the Bohai Strait

The Bohai Strait is the only passage-way of the semienclosed Bohai Sea into the outer ocean. The various dynamical processes have great effects on both sides of the strait, especially on the Bohai Sea. Tidal current dominates in the strait, and among the tida! components the M, component tide is prevailing.The seawater in the strait is homogeneous vertically almost the whole year because of strong tidal mixing. The M, component tide was simulated numerically using two dimensional barotropical model, and the Eulerian tide-induced residual currents were also deduced. The results showed that the tidal currents were dominated by the coastal line and topography. There exist many eddies in the tide-induced residual current fields, particularly near the northern coast.On the basis of the simulation of the tidal currents, the movements of the water particles in the strait were tracked by means of Lagrangian techniques. Consequently the Lagrangian residual currents were obtained. Somewhat similar to the Eulerian     

MODERN TIDAL CHANNELS SEDIMENTATION IN JIANGGANG, NORTH JIANGSU PROVINCE

The Jianggang tidal flat is formed under the influence ot two strong tidal currents which converge on or diverge from Jianggang. Tidal channel and creek system is rather well developed here due to the actions of scouring, transportation as well as deposition of bottom sediments by tidal currents. Tidal channels, crisscrossing the flat, are large in scale and swift in lateral migration, which plays a role of vital importance in the reworking of the tidal flat sediments. This paper evaluates the characteristics of sediments of the tidal channels and puts forward some facies criteria for the identification of these sediments and the theory of development of tidal channels by stages, thus providing a useful base for the study of its ancient counterparts.     

Lunar fortnightly modulation of tidal mixing near Kashevarov Bank, Sea of Okhotsk, and its impacts on biota and sea ice

Here we examine the consequences of strong tidal mixing on spatial and temporal distributions of biota and sea ice above Kashevarov Bank, Sea of Okhotsk, using data from field surveys (hydrography, pressure gauge and current meter moorings, and bio-acoustic soundings) and remote sensing (NOAA AVHRR). Fortnightly variations in the amplitude of diurnal tidal currents, primarily resulting from the K₁–O₁ interaction, are shown to dominate water motion over the bank. These currents (with maximum velocities 2 m s⁻¹) create a sharp tidally-mixed front that separates well-mixed water above the bank from stratified water along its flanks. Such mixing draws water upward from the cold dichothermal layer (100–150 m) into the surface layer, and thus serves to ventilate the intermediate layers of the Sea of Okhotsk. In summer, fortnightly modulation of the tidal mixing creates temporal variations in water column stratification, a critical factor in the joint supply of nutrients and light required to sustain phytoplankton growth. As such, chlorophyll-a and oxygen values vary in response to the fortnightly cycle, and zooplankton likewise form dense aggregations within the tidally-mixed front in response to the phytoplankton production. It is further noted that the brood cycle of dominant zooplankton species on the bank matches the fortnightly modulation of the tidal currents. In winter, tidal mixing draws relatively warm water upward from mid-depth to maintain a polynya that cyclically opens and closes in response to fortnightly variation in vertical heat flux.     

基于FVCOM的泉州湾海域三维潮汐与潮流数值模拟

基于FVCOM海洋数值模式,采用非结构的三角形网格和有限体积法,建立了泉州湾海域高分辨率(26 m)的三维潮汐、潮流数值模型。模拟结果同2个验潮站和3个连续测流站的观测资料符合良好,较好地反映了泉州湾内潮汐、潮流运动的变化状况和分布特征,给出了M₂、S₂、K₁、O₁ 4个主要分潮的同潮图、表层潮流椭圆分布,以及模拟区域内最大可能潮差、表层最大可能潮流流速和潮余流分布。分析表明,4个分潮的最大潮汐振幅和迟角差分别为219 cm和19°,85 cm和25°,26 cm和12°,26 cm和9°;石湖港以东海域的潮波为逆时针旋转的驻波,以西海域为前进波;最大可能潮差由湾口的8.0m向湾内增加至8.8 m。湾内潮流类型为规则半日潮流,落潮最大流速大于涨潮最大流速,北乌礁水道为强流区,表层最大可能潮流流速为2.4 m/s;湾口潮流运动以逆时针方向的旋转流形式为主,湾内的潮流运动以往复流形式为主,长轴走向主要沿着水道方向,与等深线和海岸线平行;四个分潮流表层最大流速分别为1.4 m/s,0.58 m/s,0.12 m/s,0.10 m/s。余流流速大小与潮流强弱有密切的联系,表、中、底层最大余流流速分别为26 cm/s,20 cm/s,16 cm/s,三者在水平方向基本呈北进南出的分布形态。     

A Bayesian method for the estimation of return values of wave heights

Bayesian statistics offer a novel means of estimating return values of wave heights and hence of establishing design criteria for offshore structures. The Bayesian method has significant advantages over the classical method since it enables all types of uncertainty (physical, parameter, distribution) associated with the design wave prediction to be handled in a consistent manner in the same analysis.The basic principles of the Bayesian method for drawing inferences are outlined step-by-step. It is shown how Bayesian estimators of return values for wave heights are established by taking an expectation over all parameters and contending distributions. When the Bayesian procedure is applied to large data sets, such as wave data sets, computational difficulties could be encountered, making a “remedial” procedure necessary. However, the Bayesian procedure has been used successfully with wave data sets from the northern North Sea. Furthermore, the associated remedial procedure is such that the program can be made suitable for many existing computers, e.g. desk computers.     

Verification studies for a z-coordinate primitive-equation model: Tidal conversion at a mid-ocean ridge

We document the accuracy and convergence of solutions for a z-coordinate primitive-equation model of internal tide generation and propagation. The model, which is based on MOM3 numerics, is linearized around a state of rest to facilitate comparison with analytic estimates of baroclinic generation at finite-amplitude topography in a channel forced by barotropic tidal flow at its boundaries. Unlike the analytical model, the numerical model includes mixing of both buoyancy and momentum, and several definitions of “baroclinic conversion” are possible. These are clarified by writing out the energetics of the linearized equations in terms of barotropic kinetic energy, baroclinic kinetic energy, and available potential energy. The tidal conversion computed from the model, defined as the rate of conversion of barotropic kinetic energy into available potential energy, agrees well with analytical predictions. A comparison of different treatments of bottom topography (full-cells, partial-cells, and ghost-cells) indicates that the partial-cell treatment is the most accurate in this application. Convergence studies of flow over a smooth supercritical ridge show that the dissipation along tidal characteristics is, apparently, an integrable singularity. When the ocean bottom is not smooth, the accuracy and convergence of the model depend on the power spectrum of the topography. A numerical experiment suggests that the power spectrum of the resolved topography must roll off faster than k⁻² to obtain convergent results from a linear numerical model of this type.     

江苏中部海岸潮沟形态对滩涂围垦的响应

根据2001-2013年江苏中部海岸的遥感影像和野外观测数据,对滩涂围垦影响下潮沟的形态演变过程进行分析。结果显示,研究区潮沟在大规模滩涂围垦影响下整体有明显的退化和消亡趋势,潮沟集水面积由2001年的293.94 km2逐渐降低到2013年的103.40 km2,潮沟长度随着其集水面积的缩减呈幂函数减小(R2=0.98),而潮沟宽度随着潮沟长度和集水面积的变小呈指数方式变窄(R2分别为0.87、0.93),总体上研究区每围垦1 km2滩涂,潮沟长度和宽度分别减小约2.60 km和0.67 m,在整个滩涂围垦过程中,落潮后期潮滩的主要排水方式逐渐由潮沟排水向滩面排水方式转变。江苏中部海岸潮沟形态在统计上具有多尺度分形结构,总体上研究区分纬值从大到小依次为潮沟分维值、各潮沟系统分维值、单支潮沟分维值。研究区潮沟的分维值(无标度区间25~210内)在滩涂围垦影响下呈波动性降低,由2001年的1.26逐渐降低到2013年的1.13,各潮沟系统的分维值随着其分汊个数减少呈线性降低(R2=0.89),各单支潮沟的分维值随着其蜿蜒性减小呈线性降低(R2=0.86)。根据潮沟的退化和消亡过程反推潮沟的起源和发育过程,本研究认为研究区最早出现的一类潮沟可能是陆源水流侵蚀型潮沟,而滩面水流冲刷型和潮流辐聚侵蚀型潮沟是随着潮滩淤积变宽过程逐渐发育的,其最初的发育形态可能是潮滩下部的冲刷凹地。     

Observed fluxes of water,salt and suspended sediment in a partly mixed estuary

Observations of the residual fluxes of water, salt and suspended sediment are presented for seven stations along the Tamar Estuary. The data include measurements over single spring and neap tidal cycles, and are generally applicable to medium or high run-off conditions.Surface to bed differences in salinity are typically of the order of several parts per thousand. Gravitational circulation is an important component of residual flow in the deep, lower reaches of the estuary. Here, Stokes drift is insignificant. In the shallow upper reaches, the major residual currents are generated by Stokes drift and freshwater inputs. Data are compared with predictions from Hansen and Rattray's (1966) model of estuarine circulation.Salt fluxes due to tidal pumping and vertical shear are directed up-estuary at spring tides, tidal pumping being dominant. Tidal pumping of salt is also directed up-estuary at neap tides, although it is insignificant in the lower reaches, where vertical shear dominates.Tidal pumping of suspended sediment is directed up-estuary near the head at spring tides, and probably contributes to the formation of the turbidity maximum. The existence of the turbidity maximum is predicted using a simplified model of the transport of water and sediment. The model shows that an additional mechanism for the existence of the turbidity maximum is an up-estuary maximum in the tidal current speeds (and thus resuspension). In the lower reaches, transport of suspended sediment is directed down-estuary at both spring and neap tides, and sediment is essentially flushed to sea with the fresh water.     

Morphological response of tidal basins to human interventions

This study focuses on the prediction of the long-term morphological evolution of tidal basins due to human interventions. New analytical results have been derived for an existing model [ASMITA, Aggregated Scale Morphological Interaction between a Tidal inlet and the Adjacent coast; Stive, M.J.F., Capobianco, M., Wang, Z.B., Ruol, P., Buijsman, M.C., 1998. Morphodynamics of a Tidal Lagoon and adjacent Coast. 8th International Biennial Conference on Physics of Estuaries and Coastal Seas, The Hague, September 1996, 397–407.]. Through linearisation of the model equations a set of time scales is obtained that describe the main features of the morphological evolution of tidal inlets. The magnitude of these system time scales is determined by inlet geometry and sediment exchange processes. The nature and degree of interventions determine which time scales are dominant. We focus on five different tidal inlets in the Wadden Sea. For these inlets, the system time scales have been estimated. The model has been applied to simulate the morphological response of the Marsdiep and Vlie inlets to the closure of the Zuiderzee in 1932. In this way, the model and associated system time scales for each of these inlets have been validated. Results show that in both inlets, the channels display the largest adaptation time. It will take at least a century before the channels and hence the tidal inlet systems reach a new morphological equilibrium.     

A numerical simulation of the distribution of water temperature and salinity in the Seto Inland Sea

Constant flows, as well as oscillatory tidal flow, play an important role in the long-term dispersion of water in the Seto Inland Sea. Two kinds of numerical model (1-line and 2-line models) of the Seto Inland Sea have been developed to determine the role of density-induced currents, one type of the constant flow, in water dispersion in the Inland Sea. The seasonal variations of temperature, salinity and density fields are simulated and the density-induced current field is predicted at the same time. It is found that the most appropriate value of the longitudinal eddy diffusion coefficient,K _x, is 5×10⁶–7×10⁶ cm²sec^–1. The value of the overall mean dispersion coefficient is of the order of 10⁷cm²sec^–1 (Hayami and Unoki, 1970). Consequently, it is suggested that 50–70% of the total dispersion in the Seto Inland Sea can be attributed to currents other than density-induced currents,i.e., tidal currents, tide-induced currents and wind-driven currents.In winter, both density and velocity fields, calculated using the 1-line model, satisfy the conditions for the existence of a coastal front in Kii Channel and in the eastern Iyo-nada.     

Eddy viscosity and tidal cycles in a shallow sea

The very pronounced spring-neap tidal cycle in the South Australian Gulfs leads to an unusually large variation in the magnitude of the tidal currents. Measurements of the currents in these Gulfs show that the non-tidal circulation depends on the strength of the tidal currents and hence on the spring-neap cycle. A simple model is produced in which the vertical eddy viscosity is a function of both wind strength and tidal currents. Results from the model agree with the observations and suggest a means whereby variations in tidal mixing may be accounted for in hydrodynamic modelling of the circulation in shallow seas.     

Sediment and hydrodynamics of the Tauranga entrance to Tauranga harbour

To relate the textural characteristics of the bottom sediments of a tidal inlet to hydrodynamics, 45 sediment samples from the Tauranga Entrance to Tauranga Harbour were analysed for textural parameters, and tidal currents and waves were monitored. Tidal currents dominate sediment transport processes near the Tauranga Entrance although swell waves are significant on the ebb tidal delta, and wind waves may influence intertidal sediments within the harbour. The bulk of the sediment is probably derived from marine sand from the Bay of Plenty continental shelf, but tidal currents and waves have changed its textural character. In areas of swift tidal currents, particularly in the inlet channel itself, sediment is coarser, more poorly sorted, and more coarsely skewed than that in areas of slower currents.     

沙埕港湾口断面潮流及余流特征分析

基于对沙埕港湾口断面的连续走航观测资料,成功构建了沿走航断面的10个站点的连续海流序列,并分析了潮流、余流、潮通量等水文要素。分析结果表明,沙埕港湾口水道潮流类型为正规半日潮流,涨潮最先出现在中下层而落潮最先出现在上层,涨(落)潮转流相差约为30min。水道内潮流为往复流,M2和S2分潮流流速较大,倾角基本沿水道主轴方向。沙埕港湾口断面余流呈2层结构,10m以浅基本为东南向余流流出湾口,核心位于湾口断面南侧。10m以深多为西北向流入湾内,入流核心位于湾口断面中部的底层区域。对潮通量的计算表明,通过湾口进入沙埕港的潮通量约为1.63×108m3。