Mean bed friction of combined wave/current flow

Bijker's model for evaluating the wave-period-mean bed friction of combined wave/current flow has been modified to account for the current velocity reduction as well as the wave boundary layer near the sea bed. A method of estimating the bed frictional dissipation rate of the combined flow is also presented. The results obtained by the present approach are compared with several sets of experimental data, and confirm its accuracy and usefulness.     

实验水槽常规流速模拟的缩尺方法

提出了一种实验室水槽中流速模拟的方法,该方法可根据需要提供合适的模型缩尺比,用来完成相关海洋工程的模型水动力性能实验,可以近似地模拟出实际设备在水中的工作状态,为在实验水槽中模拟水流动力参数提供有效的参考,方便水槽中的科学实验的开展。     

西洋东大港水道流速垂线分布研究

对辐射沙洲海域东大港4#站位连续2个潮周期的流速测量资料进行了分析、研究,拟合给出了流速垂线分布关系,并根据实际测量资料确定了该站位6个水层的浑水水流尾流函数项表达式。这些表达式表明浑水水流尾流函数是相对深度和摩阻速度的函数。探讨分析了尾流函数的空间分布和潮周期过程。非恒定流的水流尾流函数项的准确表达,对于揭示含沙水流流速结构及水、沙相影响作用规律将起到启发和推动作用。     

Partially standing wave measurement in the presence of steady current by use of coincident velocity and/or pressure data

In recent years, instrumentation for field flow measurements has become more and more sophisticated. In particular, local pressure and velocity are measured at frequency rates up to at least 2 Hz, which gives information on wave energy. The present work describes the methods for partially standing wave measurement in the presence of current by use of coincident measurements of both horizontal velocity and pressure, or vertical velocity. Reflection calculated from either coincident horizontal and vertical velocities or three-gauge methods are compared. They are based on existing experiments carried out in an ocean wave basin for both regular and irregular waves in the presence of current. Applications to field measurements, out of and in the breaking zones are then presented. In the nearshore, coincident horizontal and vertical velocities far from the bottom, and coincident horizontal velocity and pressure close to the bottom give relevant information concerning partially standing waves.     

东大港水道流速垂线分布探讨

对辐射沙洲海域东大港水道4号站位连续2个潮次的流速测量资料进行了分析、研究,拟合给出了流速垂线分布关系,并根据实际测量资料率定了该站位各时刻6个水层的浑水水流的尾流函数项表达式,这些表达式表明浑水水流的尾流函数项是相对深度和摩阻速度的函数。     

不规则波作用下沿岸流流速分布规律分析

基于MIKE21 PMS,对1/10、1/20、1/40、1/100四种不同坡度地形下不规则波浪产生的沿岸流进行数值模拟。将模拟得到的流速随着离开静水岸线距离的变化曲线进行无量纲化处理,并选用高斯分布函数对流速曲线进行拟合,进而得到高斯分布函数中流速最大值与其出现位置以及流速分布宽度等参数随着入射波浪要素和地形坡度的变化关系。研究结果表明,文中给出的高斯分布函数适用于描述不规则波浪作用生成的沿岸流流速分布规律。     

Decay of layered features in temperature- and salinity-stratified fluid with a current velocity shear

The decay of small-scale perturbations in salinity- and temperature-stratified shear flow is considered. The fundamental system of solutions (modes) has been derived asymptotically for the case of predominant viscosity contribution. The main modes of velocity, temperature, and salinity perturbations are identified, and the decay rates of these modes are analysed.Translated by V. Puchkin.     

A current measurement by moored savonius meters

A current measurement by four Savonius current meters is done for a little longer than eight days in the north-western Pacific. The result of a preliminary analysis of the records is described. Periods around twenty-four hours are dominant. The energy spectra match the -5/3 law for the frequency range up to the diurnal frequency.     

Correction method for full-depth current velocity with lowered acoustic Doppler current profiler (LADCP)

A new method is presented to process and correct full-depth current velocity data obtained from a lowered acoustic Doppler current profiler (LADCP). The analysis shows that, except near the surface, the echo intensity of a reflected sound pulse is closely correlated with the magnitude of the difference in vertical shear of velocity between downcast and upcast, indicating an error in velocity shear. The present method features the use of echo intensity for the correction of velocity shear. The correction values are determined as to fit LADCP velocity to shipboard ADCP (SADCP) and LADCP bottom-tracked velocities. The method is as follows. Initially, a profile of velocity relative to the sea surface is obtained by integrating vertical shears of velocity after low-quality data are rejected. Second, the relative velocity is fitted to the velocity at 100–800 dbar measured by SADCP to obtain an “absolute” velocity profile. Third, the velocity shear is corrected using the relationship between the errors in velocity shears and echo intensity, in order to adjust the velocity at sea bottom to the bottom-tracked velocity measured by LADCP. Finally, the velocity profile is obtained from the SADCP-fitted velocity at depths less than 800 dbar and the corrected velocity shear at depths greater than 800 dbar. This method is valid for a full-depth LADCP cast throughout which the echo intensity is relatively high (greater than 75 dB in the present analysis). Although the processed velocity may include errors of 1–2 cm s⁻¹, this method produced qualitatively good current structures in the Northeast Pacific Basin that were consistent with the deep current structures inferred from silicate distribution, and the averaged velocities were significantly different from those calculated by the Visbeck (2002) method.     

The continuity equation for longshore current velocity with breaker angle adjusted for a wave-current interaction

The continuity equation for mean longshore current velocity, V = gmT sin 2θ_b, agrees with selected field and laboratory data covering a wide range of conditions. Agreement between continuity equation and data is improved by eliminating those laboratory data which imply deep-water wave crests at angles near or greater than 90 degrees to the shoreline. Agreement between continuity equation and data is further improved by adjusting breaker angles to account for convection of the breaker point by the longshore current. Breaker point convection increases breaker angle by an amount predictable from the analysis developed here. This increase in angle is significant in those laboratory experiments with breaking wave crests at high angles to the shoreline.In the continuity equation, m is bottom slope, T is wave period, and θ_b is breaker angle, but breaker height does not appear. According to radiation stress theory, mean velocity does depend on breaker height, but only weakly. Consistency between the two approaches would require a dimensionless velocity, C_b/gT, to be relatively constant, which it is. (The same dimensionless velocity appears in the analyses of breaker point convection.) The continuity equation is functionally independent of friction and mixing, in keeping with its derivation from simple conservation of mass considerations. The equation has no adjustable coefficients. The degress of agreement with data and the internal consistency of the analysis suggests that it is a good predictor of mean velocity in ordinary longshore currents.     

An acoustic current velocity meter for position instruments and probes

This paper considers the theoretical grounds for designing a new multi-component current velocity meter with a comprehensive beam pattern and minimum impact of structural elements on the measurement data. The effect of technological error on the sensor's ability to transmit acoustic signals is assessed. Information about the practical realization of the acoustic current velocity meter is provided, together with the results of its metrological tests. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

KISAP: A new In situ seafloor velocity measurement tool

The KISAP (Korea Institute of Geoscience and Mineral Resources Seafloor Acoustic Probe) was developed to obtain in situ compressional wave velocity and attenuation profiles for seafloor sediments. The instrument comprises recording channel receivers, and an acoustic source, and can be attached to a corer or a probe. Here, we report experiments comparing KISAP in situ velocity to laboratory velocity of colocated piston cores. KISAP data matched laboratory data (corrected for temperature and pressure) reasonably. KISAP can be used to collect in situ acoustic data and can be effectively used to calibrate previous laboratory data to in situ data.     

Near-surface current measurement from a surface following data buoy (DB1)—II. An harmonic and residual analysis of current meter records

This part of the paper examines near-surface current data from different periods during the test mooring of the data buoy, DB1.Harmonic analyses show that variations in the major tidal constituents between each period are not significantly greater than the standard error of the measurement: the differences observed in the principal lunar semi-diurnal tide are explained partly in terms of a modulation by adjacent constituents. Unexpected forms for the quarter diurnal tidal ellipses derived from the DB1 data have been found also in independent measurements, in which a different mooring technique had been used. These are therefore unlikely to be of instrumental origin.Non-tidal energy at periods exceeding three days is shown to correlate with changes in wind and surface elevation, the correspondence between wind and current being greatest during a period of strong winds, when current at 3 m depth was 0.9% of wind speed at 8 m. The data are interpreted in favour of an Eulerian current rather than Lagrangian Stokes transport due to waves. Rectification of wave orbital velocities due to buoy motion is not detectable.In view of the overall quality of the data it is concluded that this combination of surface following buoy and long-path acoustic current meter can contribute usefully to the determination of mean near-surface currents in the open sea.     

Near-surface current measurement from a surface following data buoy (DB1)—I : An intercomparison of records from data buoy current meters and near-surface drifting float displacements

The measurement of near-surface current in the open sea presents difficult problems, of both sensor design and mooring in the surface wave field. However, knowledge of such currents is of considerable importance in research and offshore engineering. Consequently the development of an acoustic surface current meter has received particular attention within an experimental data buoy project which has been undertaken in the United Kingdom (DB1 Project). The development of any new sensor is necessarily followed by a thorough analysis of its performance, and it is this aspect to which this paper is devoted. The first part describes an experiment in which the displacements of drifting floats, tracked acoustically, were compared with the integrated output from the acoustic current meter: also a comparison with a buoy-mounted electromagnetic sensor. The extent of agreement between these different techniques is examined.A subsequent part discusses some longer term aspects of the performance of the current meter, which has operated almost continuously for 18 months at a test site close to the east coast of England.     

GPS单点测速技术在海浪测量中的应用研究

分析比对了GPS单点测速技术与其他已有测波手段的不同,讨论了基于多普勒频移的GPS测速方法,并分析了各类误差对测速精度的影响。分别利用原始多普勒值和导出多普勒值进行了静态测速试验和动态测速试验,将导出多普勒测速结果与RTK（RealTimeKinematic,实时动态测量系统）位置差分测速进行了比测。结果表明,使用静态数据采用高频导出多普勒值测速的精度可以达到亚厘米级每秒,而采用原始多普勒观测值进行测速因接收机型号的不同,结果差异较大;动态测速试验中,采用导出多普勒测速的方法与RTK位置差分测速的符合精度可达cm／s。     

On the measurement error of the sound velocity in marine media

We consider specific errors of measuring the velocity of sound in water caused by the effect of heating of the analyzed volume of the medium by acoustic irradiation and the influence of the velocity of the incident flow. We deduce expressions for the optimal values of the intensity of sounding acoustic radiation and the velocity of the incident flow guaranteeing the minimum possible value of the resulting error and give recommendations concerning thein situ measurements of the sound velocity. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev     

Mean sea level determination from satellite altimetry

The primary experiment on the Geodynamics Experimental Ocean Satellite‐3 (GEOS‐3) is the radar altimeter. This experiment's major objective is to demonstrate the utility of measuring the geometry of the ocean surface, i.e., the geoid. Results obtained from this experiment so far indicate that the planned objectives of measuring the topography of the ocean surface with an absolute accuracy of ±5 m can be met and perhaps exceeded. The GEOS‐3 satellite altimeter measurements have an instrument precision in the range of ±25 cm to ±50 cm when the altimeter is operating in the “short pulse”; mode. After one year's operations of the altimeter, data from over 5,000 altimeter passes have been collected. With the mathematical models developed and the altimeter data presently available, mapping of local areas of ocean topography has been realized to the planned accuracy levels and better. This paper presents the basic data processing methods employed and some interesting results achieved with the early data. Plots of mean sea surface heights as inferred by the altimeter measurements are compared with a detailed 1^o × 1° gravimetric geoid.     

根据流速剖面估计海底粗糙长度的研究

由于底床的摩擦作用,河口海岸近底层的水体流动与远离海底上层的水体流动产生很大的差别,形成重要的底边界层。在近底层由于水层与床面有频繁的物质交换,所以研究河口海岸边界层对水流、泥沙、温度、盐度垂向混合、底沙运动等物质过程有着重要的作用。底床粗糙度是研究河口海岸沉积物运移和水流结构的重要因素,它由颗粒粗糙度、底形粗糙度和推移质输沙粗糙度组成。目前还没有一个经验公式来计算底床粗糙度,但是在无波浪的情况下粗糙度可以通过拟合流速的对数分布(卡门-普朗特公式)来求得。利用对数拟合方法必须满足两个条件:一是必须测量近海底三个层面以上的流速,二是测得的流速剖面必须满足对数分布。     

An inexpensive instrument for measuring benthic current velocity and direction at sea

An instrument which measures the velocity and direction of benthic water currents at depths of up to 80 m is described. Characteristics of this meter include: (i) readings are not affected by water flow during sinking or retrieval; (ii) it is portable; (iii) it operates unattended; (iv) it is inexpensive; and (v) it requires only simple maintenance. A timing circuit which operates two time periods in succession is used to activate and de-activate a revolution counter and a fluidfilled compass which are mounted on a special frame and vane system. In the field, the instrument accurately measured average current velocities of up to 6 m s⁻¹. Data are presented which illustrate the usefulness of this instrument in describing the velocity and direction of benthic currents along the east coast of Australia and demonstrate a positive correlation between benthic current velocity and catch rates of the commercially-exploited spanner crab Ranina ranina.