Spatial distribution of grain size and depositional process in tidal area along Waikelo Beach,Sumba

A study of characteristics and distribution of sediment along Waikelo Beach, Sumba, Nusa Tenggara Timur (NTT), Indonesia has been conducted using grain size train analysis. Grain size train analysis aims to determine physical properties and textural parameters such as mean, sorting, skewness, and kurtosis. Samples were taken from several locations on the beach that represent high-tide, transition, and low-tide areas. The observation of two physical characteristics has concluded two points: (1) changing in textural pattern that shows physical differences of sediments is a result of interaction between deposition process and marine activities; (2) the abundance of coarse to medium sand demonstrates general process of sediment deposition along Waikelo Beach deposited at moderate to low energy. Linear discriminate function indicates aeolian, shallow marine, and fluvial environments. CM diagram (C?=?one percentile in micron, M?=?median in micron) describes the mechanism of sediment deposition on the beach in rolling and ground suspension. These all conditions are supported by the plotting results in the Stewart diagram that shows the influence of current either from waves or from river.     

Assessment of metals in sediments from Lake Macquarie, New South Wales, Australia, using normalisation models and sediment quality guidelines

Industrial activity since the 1890s and, more recently catchment development has resulted in significant metal contamination in Lake Macquarie, an estuary in New South Wales, Australia. This paper presents an analysis of metal concentrations in surface sediments from Lake Macquarie using normalisation models to estimate enrichment relative to natural background concentrations and by comparing concentrations with sediment quality guidelines (SQGs) and effects range median quotients to assess the potential for ecological harm. Of the 12 metals examined, cadmium, lead, mercury, selenium, silver and zinc were enriched in surface sediments throughout the lake. The greatest contamination was found in the north of the lake and, for selenium, also in areas adjacent to two power stations. Comparisons with SQGs and effects range median quotients found that sediments from a site in Cockle Bay had concentrations of metals with the highest likelihood of causing adverse effects on sediment associated biota, and that the likelihood adverse decreased with distance from Cockle Bay. Comparisons with historical sediment quality data indicated that there has been a marked reduction in surface metal concentrations throughout the lake over 15 years. Models could not be constructed for all metals due to low background concentrations. For most metals, simple linear regression models were adequate, but for selenium and arsenic a multiple regression model provided a better estimate of background concentrations. SQGs possibly overestimated effects for arsenic, which has naturally high concentrations in the lake and underestimated the potential for ecological effects in coarser sediments.     

Experimental simulation of shoreface nourishments under storm events: A morphological,hydrodynamic, and sediment grain size analysis

This study focuses on barred beach shoreface nourishments physically simulated in a wave flume. The attack of a schematic storm on three different nourishments is analysed. The apex and waning storm phases lead respectively to offshore and onshore sediment transports. Nourishments in the trough and on the outer bar feed the bar and increase wave dissipation offshore. The bar acts as a wave filter and reduces shore erosion (lee effect). In contrast, nourishment on the beach face leads mostly to shore feeding and reconstruction (feeder effect). With successive nourishments, the beach face clearly becomes steeper and onshore sediment transport is reduced during moderate wave climates. The surface grain size analysis reveals marked variations. Coarser sediments are sorted on the bar and the upper beach face. These locations correspond to large wave dissipation zones during the storm apex.     

Diagnosis of trace metal contamination in sediments: the example of Ensenada and El Sauzal, two harbors in Baja California, Mexico

Total metal concentrations in sediments from within Ensenada and El Sauzal Harbors are generally higher than at the mouths. Grain-size analyses suggested that this enrichment could be due to the presence of fine-grained sediments in the inner part of the harbors rather than to anthropogenic perturbations. The (Me/Al)(sample) ratios for Pb, Co, Ni and Fe were significantly higher for Ensenada Harbor relative to El Sauzal Harbor, whereas the ratios for Cd, Mn, Zn and Cu were statistically equivalent for both harbors. Calculated enrichment factors [EF(Me)=(Me/Al)(sample)/(Me/Al)(shale)] indicated that the metals showing slight enrichment were those associated with anthropogenic contamination (Pb, Zn), or probably related to primary productivity in the water column (Cd, Co). The levels of most of the metals were not greatly enriched, a consideration that is of the utmost importance when contamination issues are at stake.     

莱州湾东岸三山岛段砂质海岸沉积物运移动力机制

通过对三山岛岸段冬夏重复的地形测量和表层沉积物的粒度分析,研究了其地貌特征与地形变化规律、沉积物类型、粒度特征、运移趋势,并探讨了沉积物运移的动力机制。结果表明:该岸段可根据1985黄海高程-1.2m(低潮水位)和-6.5m(闭合深度)平面划分为海滩、水下岸坡和浅海陆架三个地貌单元,各地貌单元表层沉积物分布规律与地形变化特征区别显著。其中水下岸坡和浅海陆架地貌单元主要受潮流作用,海滩地貌单元主要受波浪作用。在西向落潮流和西南向潮余流的作用下,水下岸坡地貌单元发育一个中等规模潮流通道-沙脊沉积系统。表层沉积物以向西运移的趋势为主,少数滞留于西部潮流沙脊处,与地形"东侵西淤"的变化规律相符,这些西向运移的沉积物最终离开研究区,补给莱州浅滩。     

Sediment distribution and transport along a rocky, embayed coast: Monterey Peninsula and Carmel Bay, California

Field measurements of beach morphology and sedimentology were made along the Monterey Peninsula and Carmel Bay, California, in the spring and summer of 1997. These data were combined with low-altitude aerial imagery, high-resolution bathymetry, and local geology to understand how coastal geomorphology, lithology, and tectonics influence the distribution and transport of littoral sediment in the nearshore and inner shelf along a rocky shoreline over the course of decades. Three primary modes of sediment distribution in the nearshore and on the inner shelf off the Monterey Peninsula and in Carmel Bay were observed. Along stretches of the study area that were exposed to the dominant wave direction, sediment has accumulated in shore-normal bathymetric lows interpreted to be paleo-stream channels. Where the coastline is oriented parallel to the dominant wave direction and streams channels trend perpendicular to the coast, sediment-filled paleo-stream channels occur in the nearshore as well, but here they are connected to one another by shore-parallel ribbons of sediment at depths between 2 and 6 m. Where the coastline is oriented parallel to the dominant wave direction and onshore stream channels are not present, only shore-parallel patches of sediment at depths greater than 15 m are present. We interpret the distribution and interaction or transport of littoral sediment between pocket beaches along this coastline to be primarily controlled by the northwest-trending structure of the region and the dominant oceanographic regime. Because of the structural barriers to littoral transport, peaks in wave energy appear to be the dominant factor controlling the timing and magnitude of sediment transport between pocket beaches, more so than along long linear coasts. Accordingly, the magnitude and timing of sediment transport is dictated by the episodic nature of storm activity.     

Spatial patterns in meiobenthic assemblages in intermittently open/closed coastal lakes in New South Wales, Australia

Intermittently closed and open lakes and lagoons (ICOLLs) are important features of the Australian coastline. Local authorities frequently open lakes by bulldozing or dredging the mouths, in an effort to improve water-quality and to reduce the risk of flooding and these interventions provided an opportunity to examine large-scale patterns in meiobenthos in relation to isolation from the sea. Even at a coarse level of taxonomic resolution (phylum, class and order), consistent differences between assemblages of meiobenthos in different reaches of the lakes and between open and closed lakes were revealed. The abundance of meiobenthos generally decreased with increasing distance from the sea. Multivariate analyses showed that nematodes, copepods and turbellarians were characteristic of assemblages near the mouths of lakes while polychaetes and oligochaetes characterised those in more isolated areas. Furthermore, assemblages in the inner reaches of open lakes also differed from those in closed lakes. Isolated localities were less diverse and more spatially variable. Differences in meiobenthos between natural lakes and those that are artificially opened became apparent when open and closed were analysed separately. Lakes that are kept open artificially are similar to naturally open lakes despite other impacts associated with human activities. These results are considered in the context of isolation and the implications of proposed changes in the way mouths are manipulated are discussed.     

Sediment concentrations,flow conditions,and downstream evolution of two turbidity currents,Monterey Canyon,USA

The capacity of turbidity currents to carry sand and coarser sediment from shallow to deep regions in the submarine environment has attracted the attention of researchers from different disciplines. Yet not only are field measurements of oceanic turbidity currents a rare achievement, but also the data that have been collected consist mostly of velocity records with very limited or no suspended sediment concentration or grain size distribution data. This work focuses on two turbidity currents measured in Monterey Canyon in 2002 with emphasis on suspended sediment from unique samples collected within the body of these currents. It is shown that concentration and grain size of the suspended material, primarily controlled by the source of the gravity flows and their interaction with bed material, play a significant role in shaping the characteristics of the turbidity currents as they travel down the canyon. Before the flows reach their normal or quasi-steady state, which is defined by bed slope, bed roughness, and suspended grain size, they might pass through a preliminary adjustment stage where they are subject to capacity-driven deposition, and release heavy material in excess. Flows composed of fine (silt/clay) sediments tend to be thicker than those with sands. The measured velocity and concentration data confirm that flow patterns differ between the front and body of turbidity currents and that, even after reaching normal state, the flow regime can be radically disrupted by abrupt changes in canyon morphology.     

青岛市灵山湾海水浴场表层沉积物粒度冬季变化特征及其原因

于2013年11月、2014年1月及3月在青岛市灵山湾海水浴场进行了3次表层沉积物采样,对粒度组分和粒度参数平面分布的变化进行了分析。结果表明,本区沉积物整体有变粗的趋势,细砂组分特别是极细砂和粉砂组分含量下降明显,分选性变好,正偏态及高峰度分布区扩大,粒度参数高值分布区被消除。粒径趋势分析表明,在涨潮流与强盛的冬季风驱动的风浪、沿岸流的综合作用下,研究区沉积物总体呈北东-南西向沿岸输运,运移趋势变化受到波浪、潮流水动力条件与地形相互作用的影响。短期的波能变化足以改变沙滩地貌,从而影响表层沉积物的分布。可为浴场维护提供理论依据。     

Distribution Characteristics of Heavy Metals and Grain Size of Sediments from Hailing Bay, China

Introduction Hailing Bay located in western Guangdong province is an important marine aquaculture base and a famous scenic spot. Moyang River which flows across Yangjiang is the major runoff and polluted source in the sea area of Hailing Bay. Hailing Bank ( approximately 5 000 m ) which was built to connect Hailing Island and the continent in 1964 has blocked the natural circulation of suspended sand and pollutants in seawater. Water flux through the Yangjiang harbor extensively decreases …     

Spatial and temporal variation of diverse inter‐tidal algal assemblages in Southwest O‘ahu

Spatial and temporal variation in tropical inter‐tidal communities is poorly known, making predictions about the effects of climate change and other anthropogenic disturbances difficult. Along Southwest O‘ahu, Hawai'i, local residents are concerned about the environmental effects of coastal development and the perceived loss of targeted algal species, which are collected for human consumption. To describe the coastal benthic community and better understand the processes that form and maintain it, the abundance and composition of macroalgae were sampled in the region's inter‐tidal zone from 2006 to 2015. Sixty‐six macroalgal species and two broad algal assemblages were identified that corresponded to substrate topography and sand influence at a similar tidal elevation. Along flat carbonate benches with a sand beach, Phaeophyceae and Rhodophytes occurred in almost equal proportions, while shores with slightly more topographic relief and angular substrate were dominated by Rhodophytes. Foliose or turf algal forms were most common. Surveys captured the local invasion of an alga, Avrainvillea sp. and significant declines in abundant macroalgae in 2015 after a period of unseasonably warm, calm water. Temporal changes in algal assemblages were related to maximum water temperature and wave height but not precipitation. Thus, algal assemblages appear to be structured by local beach morphology as they interact with sand and wave activity and episodically by unusual weather events. However, manipulation and continuous monitoring of the algal assemblages coupled to sensing of the localized environment is necessary to confirm factors related to assembly maintenance and recent species shifts.     

江苏岸外东沙沙脊群的沉积特征

江苏岸外辐射沙洲共由10多条形态完整的大型海底沙脊群构成,地形地貌复杂独特。东沙沙脊群是其中的第二大沙脊群,研究其沉积特征可以为揭示东沙乃至整个辐射沙洲海域的沉积环境提供依据。根据在江苏岸外东沙沙洲和条子泥沙洲(高泥和二分水)分别选取的8个和2个剖面的表层沉积物样粒度分析资料,分析其表层沉积物特征,结果表明:(1)东沙沙脊群的沉积物主要有砂、砂质粉砂和粉砂质砂三种类型;(2)搬运形式以跃移组分为主,悬移组分次之;(3)沉积物的平面分布特征主要表现为,东沙沙脊群的外缘沙洲和沙洲外缘沉积物较粗、越向沙洲中部沉积物越细;在东西方向上,西部细、东部粗;在南北方向上,具有对称分布、分级分布的特点;(4)东沙沙脊群沉积物的分布特征受风浪和潮流影响较大。     

Spatial variability of intertidal rocky shore assemblages in the northwest coast of Portugal

The spatial variability of rocky shore assemblages of the northwest Portuguese coast was studied in a total of 12 transects, visited twice between March and August 2003. Each transect was positioned from the upper to the lower shore and four replicate samples (50 × 50 cm) were taken at each visually identified assemblage. Multivariate analysis was used to test the null hypothesis of no significant differences among assemblages located on different heights along the transect and among assemblages located at the same height on different transects. The distribution pattern of organisms along the height was not consistent across transects and significant variability could be found in assemblages located at the same height on the shore. Globally, the variability from the lower to the upper shore (vertical axis) was larger than from transect to transect (horizontal axis) but the distribution pattern along height was clearer in sheltered transects than in exposed ones. The heterogeneity in composition between the visually identified assemblages, within the same transect, was, however, the major source of variability in the study area. In the rocky intertidal northwest coast of Portugal, where tidal amplitude is broad and extremely wave-exposed sites are scarce, height above chart datum was the most important factor determining the distribution and species composition of the assemblages. However, variability along the horizontal axis was also significant and should be considered in studies of spatial patterns of distribution of organisms within this area.     

渤海湾西岸潮间带沉积物粒度分布特征

根据2003年12月在渤海湾西岸海河口南缘至歧口间岸段采集的4个柱状沉积物样品和6个表层样品的粒度分析结果,探讨了渤海湾西岸潮间带的粒度分布特征和沉积作用。结果表明,由北向南,表层沉积物逐渐变细,分选性变差。海河口南缘至独流减河之间的表层沉积物为分选良好的细砂,至歧口附近变为粉砂质粘土。在垂直方向上,表层以下一定深度内沉积物的平均粒径都存在一均匀层,层内沉积物为分选良好的细砂,此深度以下沉积物中的粘土含量增加。说明由于60年代之后的自然变化和人类活动,入海泥沙量减少,改变了潮间带沉积物原有的输沙与海滩发育模式,导致独流减河以北的砂质沉积物出现粗化现象。     

Spatial variation of intertidal assemblages at Tavolara-Capo Coda Cavallo MPA (NE Sardinia): geographical vs. protection effect

Marine protected areas (MPAs) represent a potentially useful management tool to preserve biodiversity. Protection effectiveness was investigated at Tavolara-Capo Coda Cavallo MPA by comparing assemblages of rocky shores at a location 'A' level of protection (island), with those at two locations at 'B' level of protection (one on an island and one on the mainland coast) and two at 'C' level of protection (one on an island and one on the mainland coast). Results did not indicate significant differences in structure of intertidal assemblages among locations under different levels of protection ('A', 'B' and 'C'). Protection was not found to be a significant source of variation to low-shore assemblages investigated. In contrast, assemblages seemed to be more dependent on the geographical location within the MPA. Results have important implications for conservation of marine coastal assemblages and would indicate that inclusion of representative assemblages within systems of marine protected areas should target rocky shores both on the mainland and on islands.     

广西北海银滩侵蚀动力研究

广西北海银滩是一处典型的强潮海滩,以滩面宽阔、砂质纯白为特征,为当地的一处著名旅游景点。近年来银滩也出现了岸线后退、滩肩消失、沉积粗化等侵蚀迹象。为了研究银滩侵蚀的动力机制,本文对银滩海水浴场当前的滩面高程、坡度以及滩面后退距离特征进行了调查和分析。并基于2016−2018年间的滩面高程动态变化,分析了冬、春季风浪和台风期间水位、波浪特征与滩面侵蚀之间的关系,并进而探讨了最有可能造成银滩侵蚀的台风路径。研究表明,1985年以来的滩面最大后退距离为80 m,侵蚀造成海滩上部滩面坡度降低,使得海滩上部的剖面形态向上凸状转化。冬、春季节的风浪叠加高水位可能会造成一定程度的滩面侵蚀,并在海滩上部形成脊槽地貌,但是这种侵蚀会被夏季西南向涌浪导致的回淤所恢复。造成银滩侵蚀后退的主要原因是2003年以来风暴潮重现频率增加。发源于西太平洋,经海南岛北部或雷州半岛进入北部湾的台风可以导致显著的海岸增水,最易于引起强烈的海滩侵蚀事件。银滩东侧的渔港码头阻断了自东向西的泥沙沿岸净输运,也是加剧银滩侵蚀的重要因素。     

楮岛沙滩不同时间尺度变化特征与波能流密度相关性探讨

在波浪和水流的作用下,泥沙在不同时间尺度下的运动会引起沙滩的冲淤演变,对海岸资源有重要的影响。因此,了解沙滩季节性演变规律,并采取针对性的防护措施,是近岸沙滩亟须解决的问题。目前,现场观测是研究沙滩剖面冲淤演变的重要方法,通过沉积物组成、岸滩坡度及波浪动力的时空变化,了解沙滩剖面的变化特性,对于沙滩管理和海岸保护具有十分重要的意义。基于2017年9月—2019年11月在荣成楮岛南岸沙滩每个月采集一次的剖面数据,以及波浪动力数据,分别探究了沙滩在不同时间尺度下的变化特征,并对沙滩变化特征与波浪动力因素的相关性进行了探讨。研究发现：楮岛南岸沙滩形态变化具有较强的季节性特征,春季沙滩比较稳定;夏季沙滩受台风影响侵蚀严重,但在风暴过后的短时间内,沙滩泥沙恢复较快;冬季沙滩恢复速度逐渐减缓并趋于稳定。在夏季和冬季期间,波能流密度的向岸分量对楮岛南沙滩的演变产生重要作用,而且波能流密度向岸分量的均值（选取数据采集前15 d的波浪条件参与计算）与沙滩体积的相关性最好,并给出了两者的线性拟合公式。     

岬湾海滩剖面中长期变化特征及其控制因素——以青岛石老人海滩为例

了解海滩剖面变化可以更好地理解海滩动态过程。利用2007年5月~2014年12月近8 a青岛石老人海滩剖面的实测资料,计算剖面各段单宽体积变化量及后滨宽度,结合交叉小波和小波相干分析方法,探讨海滩剖面中长期淤蚀变化特征及其控制因素。结果表明,近8 a来海滩剖面表现为侵蚀状态,不同岸段侵蚀程度不同。剖面1岸段侵蚀明显,剖面2和剖面3岸段轻微侵蚀。剖面的变化过程可划分为平稳期、剧变期和微调期3个时期。各时期剖面的季节性变化较复杂,平稳期具冬蚀夏淤的交替变化特征,整体淤蚀量较小;剧变期剖面呈阶段性蚀退,变化幅度相对较大,微调期剖面可能仍处于剧变期的恢复阶段,季节性变化不明显。剧变期和微调期的小波交叉谱和相干谱分析显示,波浪和前滨单宽体积相干性较好,尤其当大于2 m的波高达到10%以上,海滩地形可以和波高变化产生同周期的变化。因此波高变化基本控制了剖面的季节变化。而海滩长周期变化主要受控于风暴潮作用及其漫长的恢复期,沿岸输沙和海平面变化则一定程度上导致了剖面长期侵蚀格局的形成。     

Molluscan assemblages of seagrass-covered and bare intertidal flats on the Banc d'Arguin, Mauritania, in relation to characteristics of sediment and organic matter

The Banc d'Arguin, a non-estuarine area of shallows and intertidal flats off the tropical Saharan coast of Mauritania, is characterised by extensive intertidal and subtidal seagrass beds. We examined the characteristics of intertidal seagrass (Zostera noltii) meadows and bare areas in terms of the presence and abundance of molluscs (gastropods and bivalves). To explain observed differences between molluscan assemblages in seagrass and bare patches, some aspects of the feeding habitat (top-5 mm of the sediment) and of food (organic materials) of molluscs were examined. The novelty of this study is that phytopigments were measured and identified to assess source and level of decay (freshness) of organic material in the sediment and to study their importance as an explanatory variable for the distribution of molluscs. Over an area of 36 km² of intertidal flats, at 12 sites, paired comparisons were made between seagrass-covered and nearby bare patches. Within seagrass meadows, dry mass of living seagrass was large and amounted to 180 ±10 g AFDM m^− 2 (range 75–240). Containing twice the amount of silt per unit dry sediment mass, seagrass sediments were muddier than bare areas; the relative amount of organic material was also larger. The total number of species of bivalves and gastropods amounted to 27, 14 of which were found only in seagrass areas, 4 only in bare and 9 in both types of habitat. Among the three numerically most abundant species, the bivalves Anadara senilis, Dosinia hepatica and Loripes lacteus, the first was numerically most abundant in bare and the other two in seagrass-covered areas. Bare intertidal areas had greater mean total biomass of molluscs (80.5 g AFDM m^− 2) than seagrass meadows (30.0 g AFDM m^− 2). In both habitats, the bulk of the biomass was made up by A. senilis. Excluding this species, bare mudflats contained on average only 3.1 g AFDM m^− 2 and seagrass meadows 6.9 g AFDM m^− 2. As compared to previous surveys in 1980–1986, the biomass of A. senilis had increased almost 10-fold and D. hepatica, previously found in very small numbers, had become the most numerous species. However, the total biomass excluding that of A. senilis was similar. Concentrations of phytopigments were similar to those observed at temperate mudflats, indicating that the Banc d'Arguin might not be as oligotrophic as previously thought. Per unit of dry sediment mass, smaller amounts of phytopigments were found in bare than in seagrass areas. Per unit of dry organic material, bare sediments contained most (fresh) phytopigments. This suggests that in seagrass-covered meadows the organic material is more degraded than in bare sediments. Overall, the composition of phytopigments, quite surprisingly, indicated a benthic-diatom-dominated trophic system. Multivariate statistics revealed that patterns of zoobenthic assemblages were correlated with patterns of a combination of four environmental parameters: grain size of the sediment, amount of fresh phytopigments and amounts of leaves and roots of seagrass.     

Community structure of zooplankton in the Lembeh Strait, Bitung, and Wori Beach, Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia

The community structure of zooplankton has been conducted in the Lembeh Strait in Bitung and Wori Beach in Manado, North Sulawesi in October 2015. Sampling of this research was conducted in 22 sampling sites along the strait. Zooplankton samples were collected from 22 stations, by NORPAC 300 μm net that was vertically hauled from maximum 10 m depth up to the surface water. The samples were poured into the bottle with formalin of 4%as preservative. The results showed that there were 43 taxa of zooplankton. The abundance of zooplankton was between 21.216–4 193.776 ind./m~3. The dominant taxa were copepod, especially Calanoida. The composition of zooplankton was relatively similar in all stations. We showed the abundance, dominance, composition and distribution of zooplankton at this research. More extensive studies concerning zooplankton is required to understand zooplankton biodiversity as a whole especially on the geographical and spatial distribution to describe population and community dynamic in the Lembeh Strait and Wori Beach.