沙纹床面摩阻引起的波高沿程衰减

在浅水区的砂质床面上传播的波浪当其强度达到一定条件后,将使底床形成沙纹床面;由于沙纹床面上的底部剪应力远大于平床面上的底部剪应力,因此,在沙纹床面上传播的波浪比在平床面上传播的波浪的衰减要快得多.本研究在波浪水槽中对沙纹床面上传播的波浪的沿程衰减进行了探讨,同时,对水槽两侧壁边界层摩阻对波高衰减的影响做了分析.本文给出的理论成果与实验成果的比较表明,两者符合很好.     

波浪-海流-微地形耦合的沉积动力模式建立及应用

沙纹微地形普遍存在于海底,沙纹的消长能改变底部应力进而影响泥沙的运移。以往研究较多侧重于波致沙纹,并已应用于波浪模式的底摩擦计算,而较少考虑波流联合效应产生的沙纹,也未将其应用于综合的水动力模式和沉积物输运模式。本文在POM水动力模式中嵌入新南威尔士大学泥沙模式,通过耦合波流共同作用的微地形模型与波流相互作用底边界层模型,发展了波浪-海流-微地形（沙纹）耦合的沉积动力模式。本文将该模式应用于澳大利亚Jervis湾,针对波主导和波流联合主导沙纹两种类型,分别进行了沙纹发展状态、几何形态的分布及悬浮泥沙的模拟。结果表明:波致沙纹比波流联合作用的沙波具有更大的波高和波长,因此当波主导时沙纹对悬浮泥沙起着关键作用。通过考虑随沙纹变化的粗糙度,相比于以往模式设置均一的粗糙度,该模型能对悬浮物浓度的骤升过程进行更精细的预测。     

北部湾南部海域近底悬沙输运及地貌演变

利用1个海洋沉积动力过程原位监测系统在北部湾南部浅海陆架海域采集了18个潮周期的波浪、潮流、悬浮沉积物浓度、底床变化数据,分析了悬沙浓度变化特征,计算了近底悬沙通量并分析了潮流和波浪对底床演变的影响,结果表明:观测期间近底悬沙浓度的变化主要受水位波动、潮流的共同影响,波浪作用较弱;悬沙浓度的异常高值可能是上游沙波表面的泥沙滑落沉降所致;观测期间悬沙通量的波动规律与近底潮流速度变化一致,潮周期和涨落潮之间的悬沙通量有显著差别;在潮流作用下观测期间悬沙向西的净输运量约为15 158 kg/m,向北净悬沙通量为2 934 kg/m,东西向净通量远大于南北向净通量;近东西向波谷地形对南北向悬沙输运的限制作用可能导致了输运通量的显著差异;底床高程的变化在潮周期之间有差异,变化值在0.8~16.7 cm之间波动,厘米级底床高程的快速变化主要是由潮流流速的大小及往复潮流的不对称性造成的。这种变化可能与沙纹的运移有关,沉积物向下游方向的运移以及沙纹剖面形态的改变可以较合理地解释底床高程的变化特点。     

北部湾南部海域近底悬沙输运及地貌演变

利用1个海洋沉积动力过程原位监测系统在北部湾南部浅海陆架海域采集了18个潮周期的波浪、潮流、悬浮沉积物浓度、底床变化数据,分析了悬沙浓度变化特征,计算了近底悬沙通量并分析了潮流和波浪对底床演变的影响,结果表明:观测期间近底悬沙浓度的变化主要受水位波动、潮流的共同影响,波浪作用较弱;悬沙浓度的异常高值可能是上游沙波表面的泥沙滑落沉降所致;观测期间悬沙通量的波动规律与近底潮流速度变化一致,潮周期和涨落潮之间的悬沙通量有显著差别;在潮流作用下观测期间悬沙向西的净输运量约为15 158 kg/m,向北净悬沙通量为2 934 kg/m,东西向净通量远大于南北向净通量;近东西向波谷地形对南北向悬沙输运的限制作用可能导致了输运通量的显著差异;底床高程的变化在潮周期之间有差异,变化值在0.8~16.7 cm之间波动,厘米级底床高程的快速变化主要是由潮流流速的大小及往复潮流的不对称性造成的。这种变化可能与沙纹的运移有关,沉积物向下游方向的运移以及沙纹剖面形态的改变可以较合理地解释底床高程的变化特点。     

沙质海岸波浪动床模型设计—毛里塔尼亚友谊港下游冲刷试验模型

本文结合毛里塔尼亚友谊港下游冲刷模型的试验研究探讨了海岸波浪动床模型的相似律和试验波浪要素的确定。作者推导获得了同时满足波浪作用下岸滩剖面冲淤相似、沿程冲淤部位相似、泥沙起动相似和沉降相似的综合相似比尺公式：λρｓ－ρ＝λ＾１／３ｌ．λ＾１／６Ｄ；λｄ＝（λＤ／λｔ）＾２／３解决了波浪冲刷动床模型的基本相似问题和砂的选砂问题。对于常浪向与强浪向不一致的海岸，作者提出了采用综合考虑波高、波周期（或波     

直墙前破波波浪力──对修正过的Gota方法的探讨

对被重新修正后的Goat在墙波压力计算方法进行了分析，主要是对其无因次波浪力随基床肩宽和相对波高的变化进行分析，结果发现，Goat法计算的无因次波浪力随基床肩宽的变化，有一最不利肩宽，此不利肩宽与相对波高无关；在同一水深条件下，Goat法计算的无因次波浪力随相对波高的增大而增大。此两点与试验数据不符。     

琼州海峡东口底形平衡域谱分析

1993年用GPY浅地层剖面仪对琼州海峡东口中水道两个水深18～40m的浅段进行网格状探测，通过对探测记录的平衡域谱分析近似计算底形运动速率。探测、分析和计算结果表明：分布在深处的大型不对称沙波平均波长416m、平均波高8．8m，平均运动速率0．92cm/h；分布在浅处的小型对称、不对称沙波平均波长144m、平均波高4．9m，平均运动速率5．13cm/h。虽然这些底形运动速率大于用经验公式和其它理论公式的计算值，却接近于近年来的原位观测值和相似尺度底形风洞实验值，所以平衡域谱分析是一种相对简便准确的小尺度底形稳定性评估方法。     

岛礁地形上斜坡堤前破碎波流场数值模拟研究

基于SPH方法建立波浪数值水槽,对岛礁地形上的波浪传播变形进行了数值模拟,分析了岛礁地形上波浪破碎过程的波高和水质点波动流速分布,并采用波浪水槽物理模型试验数据进行对比验证。结果表明,该模型可以较准确地模拟岛礁地形上波浪破碎引起的波高和波动流场沿程变化。在此基础上模拟了礁坪上建设斜坡堤后的波动流场,分析了斜坡堤对礁坪上流场形态、沿程波高、波动流速垂向分布及近底流速的影响。结果表明：在建设斜坡堤后,礁坪上波浪破碎更加猛烈,波浪破碎点前移;沿程波高与波动流速受反射波影响明显,沿程波高变化呈现为先增大、再减小、再增大,最后在防波堤堤脚处减小,近底流速变化趋势则与之相反;在堤前半倍波长范围内反向近底流速峰值较非岛礁地形上规范公式计算值增幅较大。     

关于波浪破碎特性的研究

有关波浪破碎问题的研究是海岸工程界十分关注的课题。本文列举了前人有关波浪破碎特性方面的研究成果；分析了波浪破碎前后波高的变化规律，作出了适当的假定；并考虑了动床海滩坡度、底摩擦以及紊动对波浪破碎特性的影响。应用波动能量耗散率理论，并结合孤立波理论的有关公式，作者推导了计算动床海滩上破碎指标ｒ_ｂ的公式，并进而给出破碎水深ｈ_ｂ与破碎波高Ｈ_ｂ的计算公式。通过不同规模实验水槽的资料验证表明，这组计算式具有广泛的实用性。     

黄河三角洲海底土波致再悬浮研究

在现代黄河三角洲采集土样,制备室内水槽试验的底床,施加波浪作用,观测波致悬沙含量的变化规律,分析不同波高、作用时间对单位面积底床再悬浮量的影响,及波浪停止作用后悬浮泥沙的静水沉降规律。研究发现,在水深一定条件下底床再悬浮量呈现随波高增大而增大的特性,两者线性拟合的相关性很好;在一定波高的波浪连续作用下,约5 000~6 000个波周期底床再悬浮过程完成;在波浪作用初始阶段底层悬沙含量与中上层的相差很大,悬沙含量垂线结构呈斜线型,稳定阶段的悬沙浓度垂向结构呈准直线型,底层与表层含沙量比值为0.98~1.25,整个水层含量分布均匀;静水沉降过程中当悬沙含量大于1 g/dm3,悬沙含量(SSC)呈现出随时间指数衰减的规律,悬沙浓度与沉降通量呈线性关系。研究结果对认识黄河水下三角洲泥沙运移规律具有一定的科学意义。     

Microbial Biomass and Organic Nutrients in the Deep-Sea Sediments of the Central Indian Ocean Basin

In order to assess the impact of deep-sea mining on the in situ benthic life, we measured the microbial standing stock and concentration of organic nutrients in the deep-sea sediments of the Central Indian Ocean Basin in the Indian pioneer area. Sediments were collected using box core and grab samples during September 1996. The total bacterial numbers ranged from 10 10 -10 11 cells per g -1 dry weight sediment. There was a marginal decrease in the number of bacteria from surface to 30 cm depth, though the subsurface section registered a higher number than did the surface. The highest numbers were encountered at depths of 4-8 cm. The retrievable number of bacteria were two orders less in comparison with the direct total counts of bacteria. An almost homogeneous distribution of bacteria, total organic carbon, living biomass, and lipids throughout the depth of cores indicates active microbial and benthic processes in the deep sea sediments. On the other hand, a uniform distribution of total counts of bacteria, carbohydrates, and total organic carbon in all the cores indicates their stable nature and suggests that they can serve as useful parameters for long-term monitoring of the area after the benthic disturbance. Further studies on temporal variability in this region would not only verify the observed norms of distribution of these variables but would also help to understand restabilization processes after the simulated benthic disturbance.     

海上大直径钢管桩打桩过程中桩周土强度弱化研究

海上大直径钢管桩打桩过程中,桩周土体受到强烈扰动而发生强度弱化,掌握桩周土体强度弱化规律对于准确预测打桩过程、保证工程安全具有重要意义。为研究土体强度弱化规律,开展了环剪试验模拟打桩对桩周土体的扰动,测试土体强度随剪切速率的变化规律,建立了描述土体强度弱化规律的拟合公式,引入到打桩分析软件中。研究结果表明：土体的强度折减程度不仅与土体本身的性质有关还受到土体的埋深和剪切速率的影响,埋深越深土体强度折减程度越低,剪切速率越高土体强度折减越高,在打桩分析中可采用这里推荐的线性折减方法来模拟不同深度处土体强度的折减规律。     

Geoacoustic Inversion via Genetic Algorithm and Its Application to Manganese Sediment Identification

An acoustic inversion method using a wide-band signal and two near field receivers is proposed and applied to multiple layered seabed models including a manganese sediment. The inversion problem can be formulated into a probabilistic model comprised of signals, a forward model, and additive noise. The forward model simulates wide-band signals, such as chirp signals, and is chosen to be the source-waveletconvolution plane wave modeling method. The wavelet matching technique, using weighted least-squares fitting, estimates the sediment sound-speed and thickness on which determination of the possible numerical ranges for a priori uniform distribution is based. The genetic algorithm is applied to a global optimization problem to find a maximum a posteriori solution for determined a priori search space. Here the object function is defined by an L 2 norm of the difference between measured and modeled signals. Not only the marginal pdf but also its statistics are calculated by numerical evaluation of integrals using the samples selected during importance sampling process of the genetic algorithm.     

Phylogenetic diversity and phenotypic characterization of cultivable bacterioplankton isolated from polar oceans

A set of 27 marine planktonic bacteria isolated from the polar regions was characterized by 16S rDNA sequencing and physiological and biochemical testing. More than half of these bacteria were positive for caseinase, gelatinase and 13-glucosidase, and could utilize glucose, maltose or malic acid as carbon source for cell growth. Twelve isolates expressed nitrate reduction activities. Except for one antarctic isolate BSwlO175 belonging to Actinobacteria phylum, these isolates were classified as γ-Proteobacteria, suggesting that γ-Proteobacteria dominated in cultivable marine bacterioplankton at both poles. Genus Pseudoalteromonas was the predominant group in the Chukchi Sea and the Bering Sea, and genus ShewaneUa dominated in cultivable bacterioplankton in the Prydz Bay. With sequence similarities above 97%, genus Psychrobacter was found at both poles. These 27 isolates were psychrotolerant, and significant 16S rDNA sequence similarities were found not only between arctic and antarctic marine bacteria （ 〉 99% ）, but also between polar marine bacteria and bacteria from other aquatic environments （ ≥ 98.8% ）, including temperate ocean, deep sea, pond and lake, suggesting that in the polar oceans less temperature-sensitive bacteria may be cosmopolitan and have a bipolar, even global, distribution at the species level.     

Deep-Sea Sediment Compression Curves: Some Controlling Factors, Spurious Overconsolidation, Predictions, and Geophysical Reproduction

Oedometer tests have been carried out on 70 undisturbed surficial clays (at approximately 250 mm below the mudline), mostly collected by free-fall corers from sites widely scattered throughout the deep-sea North Atlantic. Acoustic measurements were also made, initially on contiguous samples and ultimately on the same sample using a geophysically instrumented oedometer which also collected electrical resistivity data. Apart from those quiescent areas below the carbonate compensation depth, such as north of the West Indies where very fine clays exist, most of the samples are silty clays whose geotechnical-geophysical properties are dependent on the type of clay minerals present (and their ability to take in moisture), the sand-size fraction, and the quantity of carbonate present. Thus the pure clays have high compressibilities which decrease on the addition of coarse particles, while the converse is true for the acoustic parameters, these increasing with the sand fraction. Using the notion of the intrinsic compression line for all samples, and comparison to it of the measured compression curves, it is clear that, contrary to some previously held ideas, most deep-sea clays are normally consolidated; the addition of carbonate has the effect of creating an open, stronger sediment skeleton. Interestingly, where information is available, the variation with depth of a sample's acoustic velocity follows the void ratio pressure relationship of the compression curve. This allows the construction of an in-situ sediment compression curve using the in-situ geophysical observations.     

INFORMATION FOR AUTHORS

<正>Acta Oceanologica Sinica(AOS)is a comprehensive academic journal edited by the Editorial Committee of Acta Oceanologica Sinica and is designed to provide a forum for important research papers of the marine scientific community which reflect the information on a worldwide basis.The journal publishes scholarly papers on marine science and technology,including physics,chemistry,biology,     

Evaluation of the Risk of Marine Slope Instability: A Pseudo-3D Approach for Application to Large Areas

This article presents a methodology developed to evaluate the instability of submarine slopes that extend over a large area. Special attention was paid to (1) the complex geometry (bathymetry) and the expanse of the slope, (2) the heterogeneity of the sediment, and (3) the distribution of the pore pressure. The safety factor was considered as a spatially varying quantity. The General Formulation (GLE, Fredlund and Krahn 1977), which fully satisfies equilibrium conditions, was used for evaluating the stability of the marine slope. The submarine slope failure, which occurred on 16 October 1979 during the construction of the new Nice airport, was studied in order to test the developed model. Geotechnical parameters were taken from experimental tests carried out by IFREMER on 19 cores extracted at different depths (from 27 m to 1300 m) (Cochonat, Bourillet, and Savoye, 1993; Mulder et al., 1994). Many scenarios were proposed in order to explain the cause of the Nice slope failure (Habib, 1994). In this article, two of those scenarios were tested. Simulation results are presented and discussed.