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In this paper,a numerical model for nonlinear wave propagation in currents is formulated by a set of enhanced fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations with ambient currents.This model is verified by comparison with the published results.Then the influence of currents on nonlinear focusing waves is studied by use of the numerical model.It is found that the effect of currents on the surface elevations at the focal location is negligible.Following currents can augment the maximum crest of focusing wave while decre... 相似文献
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Validation of the three-wave quasi-kinetic approximation for the spectral evolution in shallow water
This paper aims at validating the three-wave quasi-kinetic approximation for the spectral evolution of weakly nonlinear gravity waves in shallow water. The problem is investigated using a one-dimensional numerical wave propagation model, formulated in the spectral representation. This model includes both a nonlinear triad interactions term and a wave breaking dissipation term. Some numerical tests were carried out in order to show the importance of using the triad nonlinear term in wave propagation spectral models, particularly to describe both behavior of the spectral integral parameters and of the spectral shape evolution in shallow water depth. Furthermore; a comparison against different set of experimental observations was carried out. Comparing the numerical results with the experimental observations made it possible to show the modeling efficiency of the three-wave quasi-kinetic approximation. 相似文献
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The results of field work on drift ice during wave propagation are analyzed and presented. The field work was performed in the Barents Sea, and the main focus of the paper is on wave processes in the MIZ. A model of wave damping in broken ice is formulated and applied to interpret the field work results. It is confirmed that waves of higher frequencies are subjected to stronger damping when they propagate below the ice. This reduces the frequency of most energetic wave with increasing distance from the ice edge. Difference of wave spectra measured in two relatively close locations within the MIZ is discussed. The complicated geometry and dynamics of the MIZ in the North-West Barents Sea allow waves from the Atlantic Ocean and south regions of the Barents Sea to penetrate into different locations of the MIZ. 相似文献
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A method of incorporating pressure forcing into a nonlinear potential flow wave model is presented. A semi-analytical pseudo-spectral method is used to calculate dynamic response of a water body exposed to evolving local pressure distribution. Surface slope coherent and slope proportional pressure functions are directly applied through a pressure term appearing in the dynamic free-surface boundary condition of a formulated initial boundary-value problem. First, a monochromatic pressure distribution is used to generate steady regular waves of permanent form. The pressure-induced wave motion exhibits stable harmonic structure for deepwater, transitional water and shallow water waves. In the next step, a more complex pressure system is used to initiate multi-component wave propagation. It is demonstrated that the proposed method provides well-posed initial conditions for studying various water wave scenarios within a framework of nonlinear potential flow solutions. 相似文献
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考虑波能耗散的近岸波浪传播数学模型 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
基于考虑能耗的定常缓坡方程,推导得出包含波能耗散的近岸水域波浪传播变形数学模型,并用所得模型对浅水中波浪的传播进行了计算,将计算结构与Berkhoff的实验数据进行比较,表明二者吻合很好。该数学模型能较好地解决波浪在浅水中的传播变形问题。 相似文献
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In the context of the nonlinear, theory of long waves, we solve, using numerical techniques, a non-stationary problem on the barotropic wave propagation over an isolated bottom elevation. The time interval during which the wave process over an obstacle sets in is determined. The relative contributions of the non-linear terms to the model equations have been analysed. A practical criterion of applicability of the linear approximation to the problem examined has been formulated.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin. 相似文献
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波浪在斜坡地形上破碎,破波后稳定波高多采用物理模型试验方法进行研究,利用近岸波浪传播变形的抛物型缓坡方程和波能流平衡方程,导出了适用于斜坡上波浪破碎的数值模拟方法。首先根据波能流平衡方程和缓坡方程基本型式分析波浪在破波带内的波能变化和衰减率,推导了波浪传播模型中波能衰减因子和破波能量流衰减因子之间的关系;其次,利用陡坡地形上的高阶抛物型缓坡方程建立了波浪传播和波浪破碎数学模型;最后,根据物理模型试验实测数据对数值模拟的效果进行验证。数值计算与试验资料比较表明,该模型可以较好地模拟斜坡地形的波浪传播波高变化。 相似文献
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on the evolution equation for water waves,a mathematical model for wave propagation in large mild-slope areas is derived.The model is solved by the finite difference method with the staggered grid system.The computational results are in good agreement with experimental data and show that the model can obtain better results with relatively coarser grids.The model can be used to simulate water wave propagation in large coastal areas and can be efficiently solved without much programming effort. 相似文献
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适于模拟不规则水域波浪的缓坡方程两种数值模型比较 总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0
本文分析比较了适于不规则水域波浪模拟的椭圆型缓坡方程两种数值模型。两种数值模型均采用有限体积法离散,分别基于四叉树网格和非结构化三角形网格建立。首先结合近岸缓坡地形上波浪传播的经典物理模型实验对两种数值模型分别进行了验证,并结合计算结果对比分析了两种模型的计算精度和效率。计算结果表明,两种数值模型均可有效地模拟近岸波浪的传播变形;相对非结构化三角形网格下的模型,基于四叉树网格建立的数值模型在数值离散和求解过程中无需引入形函数、不产生复杂的交叉项,离散简单,易于程序实现,且节约计算存储空间,计算效率高。 相似文献
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On the basis of the previous studies, the simplest hyperbolic mild-slope equation has been gained and the linear time-dependent numerical model for the water wave propagation has been established combined with different boundary conditions. Through computing the effective surface displacement and transforming into the real transient wave motion, related wave factors will be calculated. Compared with Lin’s model, analysis shows that calculation stability of the present model is enhanced efficiently, because the truncation errors of this model are only contributed by the dissipation terms, but those of Lin’s model are induced by the convection terms, dissipation terms and source terms. The tests show that the present model succeeds the merit in Lin’s model and the computational program is simpler, the computational time is shorter, and the computational stability is enhanced efficiently. The present model has the capability of simulating transient wave motion by correctly predicting at the speed of wave propagation, which is important for the real-time forecast of the arrival time of surface waves generated in the deep sea. The model is validated against analytical solution for wave diffraction and experimental data for combined wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope. Good agreements are obtained. The model can be applied to the theory research an d engineering applications about the wave propagation in a biggish area. 相似文献
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利用数值方法和物理模型分析以反射为主的陡坡上波浪传播变形特性。数值方法采用标记单元法,为处理倾斜反射边界对斜坡前波浪运动的影响,提出了“台阶镜像法”。通过1:1.5光滑斜坡上物理模型试验,分析了不完全立波的运动特性,说明强反射光滑陡坡坡前波浪运动呈明显的立波状态,它与直墙反射的主要差别是被前第一波节点和腹点位置向岸推移。本试验得到的波浪反射、爬高和回落特征值与港口工程规范给定结果接近。 相似文献
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The vegetation has important impacts on coastal wave propagation. In the paper, the sensitivities of coastal wave attenuation due to vegetation to incident wave height, wave period and water depth, as well as vegetation configurations are numerically studied by using the fully nonlinear Boussinesq model. The model is based on the implementation of drag resistances due to vegetation in the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation where the drag resistance is provided by the Morison’s formulation for rigid structure induced drag stresses. The model is firstly validated by comparing with the experimental results for wave propagation in vegetation zones. Subsequently, the model is used to simulate waves with different height, period propagating on vegetation zones with different water depth and vegetation configurations. The sensitivities of wave attenuation to incident wave height, wave period, water depth, as well as vegetation configurations are investigated based on the numerical results. The numerical results indicate that wave height attenuation due to vegetation is sensitive to incident wave height, wave period, water depth, as well as vegetation configurations, and attenuation ratio of wave height is increased monotonically with increases of incident wave height and decreases of water depth, while it is complex for wave period. Moreover, more vegetation segments can strengthen the interaction of vegetation and wave in a certain range. 相似文献
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One-dimensional numerical models of higher-order Boussinesq equations with high dispersion accuracy 总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3
Abstract-Nonlinear water wave propagation passing a submerged shelf is studied experimentally andnumerically. The applicability of the wave propagation model of higher-order Boussinesq equations de-rived by Zou(2000, Ocean Engneering, 27, 557~575) is investigated. Physical experiments areconducted; three different front slopes (1:10, 1:5 and 1:2) of the shelf are set-up in the experimentand their effects on the wave propagation are investigated. Comparisons of the numerical results withtest data are made and the higher-order Boussinesq equations agree well with the measurements since thedispersion of the model is of high accuracy. The numerical results show that the good results can also beobtained for the steep-slope cases although the mild-slope assumption is employed in the derivation of thehigher-order terms in the higher-order Boussinesq equations. 相似文献
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《Ocean Modelling》2011,40(3-4):291-300
Filtering of the high-frequency part of a wind wave spectrum may be useful in a numerical wind wave model for various reasons. First, it can be used to augment (or be part of) a parameterization of the resonant nonlinear interactions, that are essential to third-generation wind wave models. Second, when combined with a dynamic time stepping scheme for source term integration, it may result in smoother (and hence faster) wave model integration. In this study, such a filter is proposed, based on the traditional Discrete Interaction Approximation (DIA) for the resonant four-wave nonlinear interactions. This filter retains all conservative properties of the interactions. For small time steps and/or smooth spectra, it is formulated as a traditional source term. For larger time steps and/or non-smooth spectra it is formulated as a filter. This formulation guarantees stability of the filter itself and will enhance overall computational stability in a full wave model. The stability properties of this filter are illustrated using traditional wave growth computations. Examples are given where the filter improves model economy, and where it is shown to remove spurious high-frequency noise from a wave model. 相似文献
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Hyperbolic Mild Slope Equations with Inclusion of Amplitude Dispersion Effect: Regular Waves 总被引:4,自引:2,他引:2
A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amphtude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed. Wave breaking mechanism is incorporated into the present model to apply the new equations to surf zone. The equations are solved nu- merically for regular wave propagation over a shoal and in surf zone, and a comparison is made against measurements. It is found that the inclusion of the amplitude dispersion can also improve model' s performance on prediction of wave heights around breaking point for the wave motions in surf zone. 相似文献