Modification of SAR spectra associated with surface wind fields in the sea off the Kii Peninsula: A case study

Using surface wave parameters and a high-resolution surface wind field derived from Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) image mode data, we have investigated the spatial modification of SAR spectra. We found a surface wind front, formed by sheltering effect of the Kii Mountains, separating high and low wind-speed regions in a sea area of an European Remote-Sensing Satellite (ERS) SAR image off the Kii Peninsula. A swell system propagating westward dominates in the whole sea area covered by the SAR image. The wavelength retrieved from the SAR spectra in the sheltered (non-sheltered) region is longer (shorter). Since the distributions of surface wave parameters and surface wind speed are so well correlated, it can be considered that the SAR spectra are modified differently by the sheltered/non-sheltered surface winds. In order to examine the phenomena observed on the SAR image we have estimated the wind-wave SAR spectrum using the SAR surface winds, a wind-wave spectrum model and a SAR wave imaging model. We assume that the SAR spectrum related to the swell is homogeneous in the area imaged by SAR, and that the SAR spectrum of the wind-wave components causes the observed SAR spectra modification. Differences between the observed SAR spectra and the estimated SAR spectra in the sheltered and non-sheltered regions agree well with each other. In the present case, it can be concluded that the observed SAR spectra can be regarded as a linear combination of the wind-wave SAR spectra and the swell SAR spectra.     

A Method of Swell-Wave Parameter Extraction From HF Ocean Surface Radar Spectra

A new method for the extraction of swell-wave parameters from high-frequency (HF) radar spectra is presented. The method of extraction of the parameters, period, direction, and height, relies on a frequency-modulation approach that describes the hydrodynamic interaction of the swell waves with the resonant, shorter, Bragg waves. The analysis process minimizes the electromagnetic second-order interaction and a simulation model was used to validate the approach. This simplified method provides a fast means of examining swell conditions over large areas of the ocean surface. Data are acquired using a pair of coastal ocean surface radar (COSRAD) systems deployed at Tweed Heads, Qld., Australia. The radar covers a sweep (approximately 60deg) every 30 min with spatial resolution of the order of 3 km. A sample set of data from this deployment is used in a case study to show the extraction of swell direction and amplitude using these methods. The results support the use of the COSRAD HF radar for mapping swell in the near-shore zone     

Gravity-wave-induced pressure fluctuations in the deep ocean

We establish a mathematically consistent theory of the pseudo-sound pressure fluctuation in the deep ocean induced by nonlinearly interacting random plane waves on the surface. In the process, a new set of the second-order perturbation equations is derived and power-correlation coefficients between random plane waves are introduced. A phenomenological model is adopted for wind pressure which excites the surface waves consisting of wind-driven sea and swell. By solving the first-order- and the second-order-perturbation equations with this wind pressure as the excitation, we obtain an expression for the pressure fluctuation and its power spectral density in the gravity-wave regime. It is concluded that only the swell part of the surface waves generates the pressure fluctuation and the spectral density is modified by the power correlation coefficient.     

High-fidelity simulation of regular waves based on multi-moment finite volume formulation and THINC method

The performance of interFoam (a widely used solver within OpenFOAM package) in simulating the propagation of water waves has been reported to be sensitive to the temporal and spatial resolution. To facilitate more accurate simulations, a numerical wave tank is built based on a Navier–Stokes model, which employs the VPM (volume-average/point-value multi-moment) scheme as the fluid solver and the THINC/QQ method (THINC method with quadratic surface representation and Gaussian quadrature) for the free-surface capturing. Simulations of regular waves in an intermediate water depth are conducted and the results are assessed via comparing with the analytical solutions. The performance of the present model and interFoam solver in simulating the wave propagation is systematically compared in this work. The results clearly demonstrate that compared with interFoam solver, the present model significantly improves the dissipation properties of the propagating wave, where the waveforms as well as the velocity distribution can be substantially maintained while the waves propagating over long distances even with large time steps and coarse grids. It is also shown that the present model requires much less computation time to reach a given error level in comparison with interFoam solver.     

Simulation of Typhoon-Driven Waves in the Yangtze Estuary with Multiple-Nested Wave Models

Typhoon-generated waves are simulated with two numerical wave models, the SWAN model for the coastal and Yangtze Estuary domain, nested within the WAVEWATCHIII （WW3） for the basin-scale East China Sea domain. Typhoon No. 8114 is chosen because it was very strong, and generated high waves in the Estuary. WW3 was implemented for the East China Sea coarse-resolution computational domain, to simulate the waves over a large spatial scale and provide boundary conditions for SWAN model simulations, implemented on a fine-resolution nested domain for the Yangtze Estuary area. The Takahashi wind model is applied to the simulation of the East China Sea scale （3-hourly） and Yangtze Estuary scale （1-hourly） winds. Simulations of significant wave heights in the East China Sea show that the highest waves are on the right side of the storm track, and maxima tend to occur at the eastern deep-water open boundary of the Yangtze Estuary. In the Yangtze Estuary, incoming swell is dominant over locally generated waves before the typhoon approaches the Estuary. As the typhoon approaches the Estuary, wind waves and swell coexist, and the wave direction is mainly influenced by the swell direction and the complex topography.     

Buoy observations of the influence of swell on wind waves in the open ocean

The influence of longer (swell) on shorter, wind sea waves is examined using an extensive database of directional buoy measurements obtained from a heave-pitch-roll buoy moored in deep water in the South Atlantic. This data set is unique for such an investigation due to the ubiquitous presence of a young swell component propagating closely in direction and frequency with the wind sea, as well as a longer, opposing swell. Our results show, within the statistical limits of the regressions obtained from our analysis when compared to measurements in swell free environments, that there is no obvious influence of swell on wind sea growth. For operational purposes in ocean engineering this means that power-laws from fetch limited situations describing the wind sea growth can be applied in more realistic situations in the open sea when swell is present.     

A mathematical representation of random gravity waves in the ocean

We give a mathematical representation of random ocean surface waves in the gravity-wave regime. The so-called random gravity waves are treated as an asymptotic phenomenon when the wind pressure acting on the surface and the dissipation become negligible. We adopt a phenomenological model for the wind pressure such that it excites a surface consisting of wind-driven sea and swell. Starting from the Navier-Stokes equations, we derive a general system of the first-order perturbation equations governing the surface waves, and solve them with this wind pressure as the excitation. The resulting solution is decomposed into a part which is asymptotically dominant and another which is asymptotically negligible. The former consists of two groups: one which is a sum of superpositions of uncorrelated plane waves having approximate dispersion relations and the other a sum of random plane waves with their wavenumbers and frequencies approximately satisfying the dispersion relation. They correspond to the dominant parts of the wind-driven sea and the swell, respectively. Finally, we derive a limiting form of the directional-frequency spectrum in the gravity-wave regime.     

海浪双峰方向分布的一种物理解释

用 １８个波高计组成的直径为 ４０ｃｍ的圆形阵列在大型风浪槽内系统地测量了风浪和涌浪方向谱。用两种分辨力较高的方向谱估计方法最大似然法（ＭＬＭ）和贝叶斯方法（ＢＤＭ）分析的结果表明：风浪高频域出现的依赖于估计方法的双峰方向分布是一种物理假象;在较成长的涌浪低频域,得到跟传播方向对称、两峰间隔大约６０°－９０°非常规则的双峰方向分布,它跟频率和涌浪的成长状态有关,而跟估计方法无关,这种现象可以用非线性波－波相互作用过弱,在不同方向之间不能有效传递能量来解释。     

On waves propagating over poro-elastic seabed

In this study, an analytical solution is developed for the problem of periodic waves propagating over a poro-elastic seabed of infinite depth. Water waves above the seabed are described using the linear wave theory. The poro-elastic seabed is modelled based on the Biot theory in which the inertia effect and Darcy's friction are added. Continuity of dynamic pressure and flow flux at the interfacial seabed surface are considered. Adopting an approach similar to Hsu et al. (1993), the governing equations for the pore pressure and displacements of the poro-elastic medium are derived. The present analytic solution compares favorably well with experimental results by Yamamoto et al. (1978), and analytical results by Song (1993) for the case of fine sand. Using the present theory, variations of the wavelength and fluid pressure caused by coupling of waves and the poro-elastic seabed are discussed. Results show that higher elasticity of the poro-elastic seabed induces larger interface pressure, but higher permeability causes smaller pressure on the seabed interface. The wave length is affected by the poro-elastic seabed and becomes shorter for softer seabed and shallower water depth.     

涌浪对风浪能量影响的实验研究

在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加.     

利用海底地震仪数据分析台风对海底环境噪音的影响

在海底布设的海底地震仪（OBS）能比较清晰地记录到海底的环境噪音,而台风可以直接或间接的产生在海底传播的弹性波,从而影响海底的环境噪音,并在较大程度上影响OBS的数据记录。本文通过分析台风对工作区的整个影响过程中OBS记录数据的振幅变化,再选择合适的滤波方式,首次发现台风产生的风浪及涌浪在短周期海底地震仪的记录数据上有良好的表现特征,指出了台风对海底环境噪音的另一种可能的影响方式,并由此得出：1）台风产生的风浪和涌浪对海底环境噪音的影响模式不同;2）风浪和涌浪所加强的海底环境噪音的范围和程度不同;3）短周期OBS可以比较清晰的记录涌浪信息,其周期主要是6—8 s,且能量稳定（简称“8秒现象”）。这三点结论为后期的海洋地震研究和海洋学其他研究提供经验与借鉴。     

Mild-slope equation for water waves propagating over non-uniform currents and uneven bottoms

I~IOXThe interaction between surface waves and ambient currents and nearshore topography lies atone of the heat of morphological medelling. Accurate predictions of how wave propagates overcurrents and topography, and of the consequent erosion and dePOSition of sand on a beach or tidalflat are vital when assessing how a coastline may be affected by changing conditions.The mild-slope equation was introduced by Berkhoff (1972) as a way of approximating therefraction-diffraction of linearized s…     

南麂海域台风影响过程中的波浪特征

根据１９８３－１９８９年南麂海洋站在台风影响过程中的实测风和浪资料，分析了该海域的波浪特征。结果表明，这个海域的台风波浪通常是混合浪，在台风影响过程中出现的最大值波高，既有较大波陡的风浪，也有波陡较小的清浪；各向波高的均值变化不大，各向最大波高却有较大幅度的差距；本区的台风浪以４级波高占优，风浪以ＮＮＥ向、涌浪以Ｅ向为常浪向；波高为４级的风浪和涌浪，其周期分别在４．０－４．９Ｓ和７．０－７．９Ｓ之     

Wave dispersion equation in a porous seabed

The wave dispersion equation has played a very important role in the development of ocean surface wave theories. The evaluation of the length of a water wave is an essential example of solving the dispersion relation. Conventional ocean wave theories have been based on an assumption of a rigid impermeable seabed. Thus, the conventional wave dispersion equation can only be used in the case of a wave propagating over a rigid impermeable seabed. For waves propagating over a porous seabed (such as a sandy bed), the conventional dispersion relation is no longer valid because of the absence of the characteristics of the porous seabed. The objective of this study is to establish a new wave dispersion equation for waves propagating over a porous seabed. Based on the new relation, the effects of a porous seabed on wave characteristics (such as the wavelength and wave profile) are discussed in detail.     

Effect of a submerged plate on the near-bed dynamics underincoming waves in deep water conditions

It is well known that wave induced bottom oscillations become more and more negligible when the water depth exceeds half the wavelength of the surface gravity wave. However, it was experimentally demonstrated for regular waves that the bottom pressure oscillations at both first and second wave harmonic frequencies could be significant even for incoming waves propagating in deep water condition in the presence of a submerged plate [16]. For a water depth h of about the wavelength of the wave, measurements under the plate (depth immersion of top of plate h/6, length h/2) have shown bottom pressure variations at the wave frequency, up to thirty times larger than the pressure expected in the absence of the plate. In this paper, not only regular but also irregular wave are studied together with wave following current conditions. This behavior is numerically verified by use of a classical linear theory of waves. The wave bottom effect is explained through the role of evanescent modes and horizontally oscillating water column under the plate which still exist whatever the water depth. Such a model, which allows the calculation of the velocity fields, has shown that not only the bottom pressure but also the near bed fluid velocity are enhanced. Two maxima are observed on both sides of the location of the plate, at a distance of the plate increasing with the water depth. The possible impact of such near bed dynamics is then discussed for field conditions thanks to a scaling based on a Froude similarity. It is demonstrated that these structures may have a significant impact at the sea bed even in very deep water conditions, possibly enhanced in the presence of current.     

Studies of the sea using HF radio scatter

Radio signals of decameter wavelength resonantly scattered from waves on the sea surface are used to measure precisely the wavelength, frequency, and direction of travel of those waves. These measurements are not only important in themselves, but are also used to deduce currents, winds, and perhaps wind stress at the sea surface. Techniques for obtaining these measurements, as well as experiments to evaluate these techniques are discussed. Finally, scatter has been used to produce the first high-resolution measurements of the directional distribution of large ocean waves, measurements of ocean surface currents at ranges of 20 km, and of surface winds at ranges of 3000 km.     

Detection of nonlinear waves and their contribution to ocean wave spectra Part I: Theoretical consideration

This is a Part I of a paper of nonlinearities of wind waves in the deep open ocean. First, considerations are given in order to verify the theoretical expression for bound waves from observed data. We compare the contribution of bound waves and double Bragg scattering to the second-order scattering, and we show that the contribution of bound waves is larger, and that bound waves can be detected by measuring the Doppler spectra of HF (high-frequency) radio wave scattering from the sea surface. Moreover, if the theory of the HF radio wave scattering from the sea surface is verified, so is the second-order perturbation theory for bound waves. Then, the contributions of bound waves to ocean wave spectra are investigated on the basis of the nonlinear theory. The bound waves are shown to modify frequency spectra and wave directional distributions at higher frequencies, and it is shown that although the modifications of frequency spectra are smaller for a two-dimensional field case than for a one-dimensional field case, they are not negligible at higher frequencies. On the other hand, the modifications of wave directional distributions are shown to be significant at higher frequencies. These discussions become significant only when bound wave predictions are verified in the open ocean. Consequently, it is shown that nonlinearities of water waves are important in considering both radio wave scattering from the sea surface and the detailed structures of ocean wave spectra at high frequencies.     

Weakly non-linear free oscillations in a basin of variable depth

Weakly non-linear free oscillations in a basin of variable depth filled with non-viscous fluid are investigated in terms of the long waves theory using the perturbation technique. Solutions to the initial two approximations for the horizontal velocity component and free surface departure are numerically derived. An attempt is made to determine the area of applicability of the linear theory by applying a parabolic bottom profile to the basin.Translated by V. Puchkin.     

基于非静压模型的波浪空间聚焦研究

为研究波浪聚焦特性,分析极端波浪的产生机理,采用非静压模型通过数值模拟的方法对波浪聚焦的影响因素进行了详细研究。本文采用SWASH非静压波浪模型,模型垂向均匀分三层以保证足够的色散精度以及非线性精度来高效准确的模拟波浪在变化地形上的传播。研究发现在最大波浪未发生破碎时,波浪在半圆形凸起斜坡浅滩上传播,波浪聚焦是波高增大的最主要原因。初始kR(波数与浅滩半径乘积)值对波浪在该地形上的聚焦特性有着重要影响。初始kR越大,最大波高位置距聚焦地形坡脚的距离越远。当kR在1.4π~4.05π之间时,随着kR的减小,最大相对波高先增大后减小,当kR=2.45π时,最大相对波高达到极大值,可达2.48倍初始波高。     

The mixing mechanism in the formation of ocean shear waves

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