驱动非线性浅水波的行波特征研究

采用带有外界强迫效应的浅水动力学模式研究非线性波动、获得了依赖于外界输入形式的驱动水波的行波解。研究结果表明,驱动水波仍具有非线性波动的一般性质,而当外界强迫波速与水波固有速度一致时,水波出现共振效应,并且外界强迫孤立子将导致驱动水波孤立子产生。     

深水有限振幅重力波的一种解法

采用变量代换的方法,处理水波的自由边界,获得了新的水波控制方程和边界条件。以摄动法解非线性偏微分方程的近似解析解,求得了与三阶斯托克斯波略有差别的非线性波面和包含振幅的非线性水波色散关系,并且得出了二阶以上的波动势函数在深水情况下不为零的结论。     

非静压水波模型研究综述

水波数值模拟一直是水利、海岸、海洋工程和物理海洋等学科关注的重要研究领域之一。在诸多的水波模型之中,非静压水波模型以其计算精度和效率较为平衡的特点受到青睐。非静压水波模型经过近三十年的发展,为科学研究、工程设计分析和海洋资源开发等提供了重要的技术手段。然而,如何开发更为高效的非静压模型,拓宽模型的应用领域一直是研究的主要研究方向。文章综述了非静压模型概念的提出以及数值开发的难点,介绍了非静压模型在波浪传播演化和波浪与结构物相互作用这两方面的应用进展,将有助于研究者了解非静压水波模型的研究和应用现状。     

关于Boussinesq型水波方程理论和应用研究的综述

Boussinesq型方程是研究水波传播与演化问题的重要工具之一,本文就1967-2018年常用的Boussinesq型水波方程从理论推导和数值应用两个方面进行了回顾,以期推动该类方程在海岸(海洋)工程波浪水动力方向的深入研究和应用。此类方程推导主要从欧拉方程或Laplace方程出发。在一定的非线性和缓坡假设等条件下,国内外学者建立了多个Boussinesq型水波方程,并以Stokes波的相关理论为依据,考察了这些方程在相速度、群速度、线性变浅梯度、二阶非线性、三阶非线性、波幅离散、速度沿水深分布以及和(差)频等多方面性能的精度。将Boussinesq型水波方程分为水平二维和三维两大类,并对主要Boussinesq型水波方程的特性进行了评述。进而又对适合渗透地形和存在流体分层情况下的Boussinesq型水波方程进行了简述与评论。最后对这些方程的应用进行了总结与分析。     

近岸大区域水波数学模型及其数值求解

从水波发展方程出发,导出了大区域缓坡水波数学模型,并采用交错网格系统下的有限差分法对该数学模型进行了数值求解,计算结果表明该数学模型在粗网格下也能得到与实验结果比较一致的结果,从而表明该模型可用于较大区域的水波问题.该模型具有编程简单、求解比较快速、经济的优点.     

数值波浪水槽消波器的改进与检验

数值波浪水槽技术是一种新兴的水波动力学数值模拟技术, 它能够实现水波现象的精确模拟。作为数值波浪水槽的一个重要功能, 消波技术被用于消除传入波浪在水槽末端的反射效应, 以防止反射波对有效实验区域的污染, 从而保证特定要求的水波实验的精确性。目前被广泛采用的消波技术可分为阻尼消波区和主动消波器两类。     

随机波面概率统计中的动力学应用

通过构造带有随机初步条件的微分方程,论述了在线性海浪范围内动力学与统计学的协调性,然后把水波动力学中的研究成果引进随机波面统计中获得了非线性波面的概率分布形式,并由浅水因子和浅水波陡作为分布函数中的控制参量,从而发展了随机海浪的统计理论。     

等深封闭海风潮数值计算

采用常深度（h=20米）封闭海做为计算域,强迫力只考虑常北风（V=20米/秒）产生的风应力,用Fischer（1950）建立的有限差分格式求解二维全流方程组,计算获得了一些有益结论: 1.科氏力驱使风暴潮波沿封闭海按反时针方向传播。 2.所有增、减水波表现出假潮周期的振荡。 3.两种不同的底摩公式对增、减水波的影响是有差别的。 4.只考虑风应力,封闭海中的增、减水波表现出南北反相的强迫振荡。     

论水波能量的传输与群速

本文论述了“传播”与“传输”在概念与数学表述上的原则区别,阐明了水波能量的传输机制,讨论了群速的物理意义,并由此给出了若干重要结论。这些结论对于澄清在水波理论与应用研究中使用能量传输、传播与群速时存在的混乱现象是有益的。     

波浪模式的变分多尺度方法模拟

针对波浪模式问题,将变分多尺度方法与自由面捕捉技术相结合;把波浪模式的各个物理量分解到“粗” “细”两种尺度上,引入消除数值伪振荡的稳定化结构;最后求解“粗” “细”两种尺度耦合的整体变分多尺度方程,模拟了水波自由晃动的1个周期和波浪的传播过程。模拟结果表明:采用变分多尺度方法模拟水波晃动和波浪传播不会引起数值伪振荡,得到精确的数值解,能够正确模拟水波自由晃动的周期性变化现象以及波浪的传播过程。     

Sand ripples generated by regular oscillatory flow

The prediction of ripple geometry is a necessary precursor to the prediction of sand transport under waves for ripple regime conditions. The paper begins with a comparison of four existing methods for predicting the geometry of sand ripples generated by oscillatory flow. The comparison points to substantial differences between ripple dimensions predicted by the methods, especially for field-scale conditions. Ripple geometry experiments carried out in a large oscillatory flow tunnel are then described. The experiments involved a range of sand sizes and sinusoidal and asymmetric flows with periods and velocities typical of field conditions. Comparison of measured and predicted ripple geometries leads to the recommendation that the method of Mogridge, Davies and Willis be used to predict ripple geometry for field-scale oscillatory flows. The Nielsen method yields good predictions of ripple length, but the rapid fall-off in ripple steepness predicted by the Nielsen method at high mobility number is not supported by the measurements. The lengths and heights of symmetric ripples produced by sinusoidal flows are found to be similar to the lengths and heights of asymmetric ripples produced by “equivalent” asymmetric flows. Three-dimensional ripples occur with fine sand in long-period flows typical of field conditions. The dimensions of these ripples cannot be predicted using methods developed for two-dimensional ripples. Previously suggested criteria for predicting the occurrence of three-dimensional ripples fail when tested against a wide range of flow and sand conditions. The occurrence of three-dimensional ripples and the effects of ripple and flow history on ripple geometry require further research.     

The dimensions of sand ripples in full-scale oscillatory flows

New large-scale experiments have been carried out in two oscillatory flow tunnels to study ripple regime sand suspension and net sand transport processes in full-scale oscillatory flows. The paper focuses on ripple dimensions and the new data are combined with existing data to make a large dataset of ripple heights and lengths for flows with field-scale amplitudes and periods. A feature of the new experiments is a focus on the effect of flow irregularity. The combined dataset is analysed to examine the range of hydraulic conditions under which oscillatory flow ripples occur, to examine the effects of flow irregularity and ripple three-dimensionality on ripple dimensions and to test and improve existing methods for predicting ripple dimensions.The following are the main conclusions. (1) The highest velocities in a flow time-series play an important role in determining the type of bedform occurring in oscillatory flow. Bedform regime is well characterised by mobility number based on maximum velocity in the case of regular flow and based on the mean of the highest one tenth peak velocities in the case of irregular flow. (2) For field-scale flows, sand size is the primary factor determining whether equilibrium ripples will be 2D or 3D. 2D ripples occur when the sand D₅₀ ≥ 0.30 mm and 3D ripples occur when D₅₀ ≤ 0.22 mm (except when the flow orbital diameter is low). (3) Ripple type (2D or 3D) is the same for regular and irregular flows and ripple dimensions produced by equivalent regular and irregular flows follow a similar functional dependence on mobility number, with mobility number based on maximum velocity in the case of regular flow and based on the mean of the highest one tenth velocities in the case of irregular flow. For much of the ripple regime, ripple dimensions have weak dependency on mobility number and ripple dimensions are similar for regular and irregular flows with the same flow orbital amplitude. However, differences in ripples produced by equivalent regular and irregular flows become significant at the high mobility end of the ripple regime. (4) Ripple dimensions predicted using the Wiberg and Harris formulae are in poor agreement with measured ripple dimensions from the large-scale experiments. Predictions based on the Mogridge et al. and the Nielsen formulae show better overall agreement with the data but also show systematic differences in cases of 3D ripples and ripples generated by irregular flows. (5) Based on the combined large-scale data, modifications to the Nielsen ripple dimension equations are proposed for the heights and lengths of 2D ripples. The same equations apply to regular and irregular flows, but with mobility number appropriately defined. 3D ripples are generally smaller than 2D ripples and estimates of 3D ripple height and length may be obtained by applying multipliers of 0.55 and 0.73 respectively to the 2D formulae. The proposed modified Nielsen formulae provide an improved fit to the large-scale data, accounting for flow irregularity and ripple three-dimensionality.     

波浪-海流-微地形耦合的沉积动力模式建立及应用

沙纹微地形普遍存在于海底,沙纹的消长能改变底部应力进而影响泥沙的运移。以往研究较多侧重于波致沙纹,并已应用于波浪模式的底摩擦计算,而较少考虑波流联合效应产生的沙纹,也未将其应用于综合的水动力模式和沉积物输运模式。本文在POM水动力模式中嵌入新南威尔士大学泥沙模式,通过耦合波流共同作用的微地形模型与波流相互作用底边界层模型,发展了波浪-海流-微地形（沙纹）耦合的沉积动力模式。本文将该模式应用于澳大利亚Jervis湾,针对波主导和波流联合主导沙纹两种类型,分别进行了沙纹发展状态、几何形态的分布及悬浮泥沙的模拟。结果表明:波致沙纹比波流联合作用的沙波具有更大的波高和波长,因此当波主导时沙纹对悬浮泥沙起着关键作用。通过考虑随沙纹变化的粗糙度,相比于以往模式设置均一的粗糙度,该模型能对悬浮物浓度的骤升过程进行更精细的预测。     

Effect of roughness formulation on the performance of a coupled wave,hydrodynamic, and sediment transport model

A variety of algorithms are available for parameterizing the hydrodynamic bottom roughness associated with grain size, saltation, bedforms, and wave–current interaction in coastal ocean models. These parameterizations give rise to spatially and temporally variable bottom-drag coefficients that ostensibly provide better representations of physical processes than uniform and constant coefficients. However, few studies have been performed to determine whether improved representation of these variable bottom roughness components translates into measurable improvements in model skill. We test the hypothesis that improved representation of variable bottom roughness improves performance with respect to near-bed circulation, bottom stresses, or turbulence dissipation. The inner shelf south of Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts, is the site of sorted grain-size features which exhibit sharp alongshore variations in grain size and ripple geometry over gentle bathymetric relief; this area provides a suitable testing ground for roughness parameterizations. We first establish the skill of a nested regional model for currents, waves, stresses, and turbulent quantities using a uniform and constant roughness; we then gauge model skill with various parameterization of roughness, which account for the influence of the wave-boundary layer, grain size, saltation, and rippled bedforms. We find that commonly used representations of ripple-induced roughness, when combined with a wave–current interaction routine, do not significantly improve skill for circulation, and significantly decrease skill with respect to stresses and turbulence dissipation. Ripple orientation with respect to dominant currents and ripple shape may be responsible for complicating a straightforward estimate of the roughness contribution from ripples. In addition, sediment-induced stratification may be responsible for lower stresses than predicted by the wave–current interaction model.     

Geometry and migration characteristics of bedforms under waves and currents: Part 2: Ripples superimposed on sandwaves

This paper presents results of a series of detailed measurements of geometric and migrating characteristics of ripples superimposed upon sandwaves under the action of combined waves and currents. Velocity measurements within the fluid, surface wave characteristics and 3D mapping of the bottom were recorded with an Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter (ADV), an acoustic water level sensor and a 32 composite element array of sub-aquatic acoustic sensors, respectively. Bottom records were statistically analyzed to obtain height, length and migration rates of ripples. Experiments examined ripple heights and wavelengths for the mobility factors (as defined in Eq. (4)) and the Reynolds wave number within the ranges 10 < ψ < 88 and 16 × 10³ < Re_w < 5 × 10⁵, respectively. Measured values were compared with laboratory and field data together with semi-empirical and analytical formulae from the literature. Good correlation was obtained when plotting measured ripple length and length in dimensionless form as a function of the Reynolds wave number Re_w. Under a given hydraulic condition, it was observed that ripples with different geometric characteristics may coexist at different locations over the sandwave. Ripple steepness is presented as a function of the Shields parameter although characterized with rather large scatter. Finally, average ripple migration speed is presented as a function of the Shields parameter and the mobility number.     

Ripples in intertidal mud—a conceptual explanation

On protected mudflats and along sheltered tidal channel margins, wave- and current-generated ripples are frequently observed on surficial and subsurface mud beds, although such bedforms are generally not thought to occur in cohesive sediments. In this paper, examples of such ripple marks in the German Wadden Sea (back-barrier tidal flats of Spiekeroog island) and also along the west coast of Korea (Baeksu tidal flats) are documented and analyzed. The mud ripples are 5–8 cm in spacing and 0.3–0.8 cm in height, and are composed of slightly sandy to virtually pure mud (80–98% mud content). For the Spiekeroog study area, a comparison of in situ particle-size measurements of suspended matter and of dispersed mud collected from the ripples shows that the former consists of low-density flocs which are considerably larger than the constituent grains of the latter. To assess local wave effects, near-bed orbital velocities and orbital diameters were calculated on the basis of standard wave theory using estimated wave parameters at the time of the study (June 2004) as well as wave data recorded nearby within the back-barrier tidal basin. The relationships between grain size, morphometric ripple parameters, and the near-bed orbital diameter show the wave-generated mud ripples to be of the orbital post-vortex type. It is demonstrated that only short-period shoaling (intermediate water depth) waves with periods of 1.5–2.5 s and heights of 0.1–0.5 m are able to generate and maintain such ripples. Corresponding near-bed orbital velocities range from 8–32 cm s^–1 and near-bed orbital diameters from 6.25–10 cm. It can be anticipated that increased current shear and turbulence associated with higher and longer waves prevent ripple formation due to the resuspension of settled mud, and the breakdown of suspended flocs and aggregates into smaller particles which then tend to remain in suspension. The most plausible explanation for the formation of the mud ripples is that mud flocs and aggregates deposited from suspension around high-water slack tide under moderate weather conditions initially respond as single (non-cohesive) particles which are hydraulically equivalent to ambient very fine sands. During exposure at low tide, gradual loss of water transforms the rippled mud into increasingly more cohesive mud drapes which are more resistant to erosion. Unless destroyed during high-energy events, the mud ripples may remain intact long enough to become buried and thereby preserved. Indeed, occasional but persistent observations of ripples in sub-Recent to ancient mudrocks document their preservation potential.     

涡流波痕

本文介绍一种新的波痕类型——涡流波痕,它由若干列放射状排列的波痕组成一个小波痕体系。单列波痕脊的中段呈弧形前凸。笔者将涡流波痕的形态特征与涡流的运动特征相比较,探讨了形成涡流波痕的水动力条件。笔者在阐明涡流波痕产地地理背景的基础上,指出大潮差沙滩的后滨是发育涡流波痕的理想环境。     

Turbiditic levee deposition in response to climate changes: The Var Sedimentary Ridge (Ligurian Sea)

The Var turbiditic system located in the Ligurian Sea (SE France) is an intermediate mud/sand-rich system. The particularity of the Var deep-sea fan is its single channel with abrupt bends and its asymmetric and hyper-developed levee on the right hand side: the Var Sedimentary Ridge. Long-term sediment accumulation on the Var Sedimentary Ridge makes this an ideal target for studying the link between onshore climate change and deep-sea turbidite stratigraphy. This paper focuses on the establishment of the first detailed stratigraphy of the levee, which is used to analyze the timing of overbank deposition throughout the last deglaciation. Main results indicate that high variability in turbidite frequencies and deposition rates along the Var Sedimentary Ridge are determined by two main parameters: 1) the progressive decrease of the levee height controlling the ability of turbidity currents to spill out from the channel onto the levee, and 2) climatic variations affecting the drainage basin, in particular changes in glacial condition since late Last Glacial Maximum to early Holocene. Compared to other deep-water areas, this study confirms the ability of turbiditic systems to record past climatic events on millennial timescales, and underlines the influence of European deglaciation on the observed decrease in turbidite activity in the Var canyon. The presence of a very narrow continental shelf and a single, large channel-levee system makes the Var Sedimentary Ridge a unique example of climate-controlled turbiditic accumulations.     

Inversely graded turbidite sequences in the deep Mediterranean: a record of deposits from flood-generated turbidity currents?

Turbidity currents generated during floods of small and medium rivers have been demonstrated to be an important process of sediment transport from continent to abyss. They produce fine-grained turbidite deposits. No deposit related to these flood-related turbidity currents has yet been described in the deep sea. In this paper, we present some unusual sandy to muddy turbidite beds cored in the Var turbidite system (NW Mediterranean). They show a coarsening-upward basal unit capped with a classical fining-upward unit which are related to the periods of increasing and decreasing discharge at the river mouth, respectively. The two units are separated by a contact which can be gradational to erosional. This intrabed contact is interpreted as resulting from erosion during peak flood conditions. This intrabed contact can be confused with classical basal contacts of turbidite beds. The frequency of hyperpycnal turbidite beds can be used to relate climatic changes inland to the deep-sea sedimentary record, as an increase corresponds to periods of enhanced flooding at the river mouth.     

Sea ripple formation: the heterogeneous sediment case

Ripple formation beneath sea waves is analyzed both by experimental and analytical means when the bottom is made up of a mixture of sands. An oscillatory flow is obtained in a closed duct by the oscillations of two rigidly connected pistons located at the ends of the duct. The amplitude and period of the oscillations can be continuously varied. A fixed tray, located at the bottom of the duct and filled with different types of sediments, allows ripple formation to be observed. The presence of graded sediments is found to have a stabilizing effect and causes longer ripples to appear. Moreover a selective sediment transport is observed and quantified which tends to pile up the coarse grains at ripple crests leaving the fine ones in the troughs. As in the companion paper, the theory is based on a linear stability analysis of a flat sandy bottom subject to an oscillatory flow. Because of the presence of a mixture, a modified version of Exner equation is used and an “hiding” factor should be inserted in the sediment transport rate formula. The flow regime in the bottom boundary layer is assumed to be turbulent. The conditions for ripple appearance are determined along with their wavelengths as they form. Good agreement is found between experimental data and theoretical findings.