Tomographic mapping of sediments in shallow water

Sediment compressional wave speeds were estimated using broad-band data in range-dependent environments. The environment was assumed as mildly range dependent and was modeled using adiabatic theory. The inversion scheme was based on group speed-dispersion behavior. A genetic algorithm (GA) combined with a neighborhood approach was used for the search. The top layer of sediment was mapped in the shelf region using acoustic data from explosive sources collected on a vertical line array.     

High-frequency reverberation in shallow water

Monostatic reverberation measurements were collected in shallow water, over a coarse gravel and cobble bottom, 100 m deep, off the coast of Nova Scotia. Data were collected at frequencies of 21, 28, and 36 kHz using linear FM pulses of 2-kHz bandwidth and 0.160-s duration. An anchored, high-frequency active sonar array deployed at a depth of 42 m was used to collect the data. The reverberation measurements were compared with estimates computed with the NUWC generic sonar model (GSM). The data were reasonably well modeled for times greater than 0.2 s after pulse transmission by neglecting surface reverberation and using Lambert's rule for bottom backscattering with a scattering coefficient of -27 dB, independent of frequency. At all three frequencies, the data and model show a peak approximately 0.9 s after pulse transmission. This peak results from a focusing effect that the downward-refracting sound-speed profile has on the interaction of the rays with the bottom     

Wave height distribution in shallow water

Probability distribution of shallow water wave heights, obtained from a pressure type recorder, are examined. It is tested with the theoretical distributions of (a) Rayleigh, (b) Weibull, (c) Gluhovski, (d) Ibrageemov and (e) Goda. The best fit is shown by the Gluhovski probability density function with a correlation coefficient greater than 0.8. The functions of Weibull, Ibrageemov and Goda fit only half of the tested cases. The role of wave steepness in the wave height distribution is found to be negligible.     

Wave-induced seabed response in shallow water

To simulate the wave-induced response of coupled pore fluids and a solid skeleton in shallow water, a set of solutions with different formulations (fully dynamic, partly dynamic, and quasi-static) corresponding to each soil behavior assumption is presented. To deal with Jacobian elliptic functions involved in the cnoidal theory, a Fourier series approximation is adopted for expanding the boundary conditions on the seabed surface. The parametric study indicates the significant effect of nonlinearity for shallow water wave, which also enhances the effect of soil characteristics. The investigation of the applicability of reduced formulations reveals the necessity of a partly or even fully dynamic formulation for the wave-induced seabed response problem in shallow water, especially for thickened seabed. The analysis of liquefaction in the seabed indicates that the maximum depth of liquefaction is shallower, and the width of liquefaction is broader under cnoidal wave loading. The present analytical model can provide more reasonable result for the wave-induced seabed response in the range of shallow water wave.     

Seismo-acoustic field statistics in shallow water

The spatial statistics of the acoustic field in shallow water are strongly affected by interfacial roughness and volume fluctuations in the water column or the seabed. These features scatter energy, reducing the coherence of the acoustic field. This paper introduces a consistent, mode-based modeling framework for ocean scattering. First, the rough surface scattering theory of Kuperman and Schmidt is reformulated in terms of normal modes, resulting in computation times which are reduced by several orders of magnitude. Next, a perturbation theory describing scattering from sound speed and density fluctuations in acoustic media is developed. The scattering theories are combined with KRAKEN, creating a unified normal mode code for wave theory modeling of shallow-water spatial statistics. The scattered field statistics are found to be a complicated function of scattering mechanism, scatterer statistics, and acoustic environment. Bottom properties, including elasticity, strongly influence the scattered field     

Analysis of body supercavitation in shallow water

Motion of a cavitating body in shallow waters undergoes a blockage effect. There are influences of the rigid boundary (the sea bottom) and the free boundary (sea surface) in shallow waters. As shown by computation carried out with the ideal fluid theory, the combination of these influences leads to an increase of cavitation number for a cavity of a fixed length and to 3D deformations of the cavity cross-sections, with a swelling of the down cavity part.     

Spectral characteristics of high shallow water waves

The spectral characteristics of shallow water waves with significant wave height more than 2 m based on the data collected along the Indian coast is examined. It was found that the value of Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) parameters (α and γ) increases with significant wave height and mean wave period and decreases with spectral peak period. The estimated average value (0.0027 and 1.63) of the JONSWAP parameters, α and γ were less than the generally recommended values of 0.0081 and 3.3, respectively. By carrying out a multi-regression analysis, an empirical equation is arrived relating the JONSWAP parameters with significant wave height, peak wave period and mean wave period. It was found that the Scott spectra underestimate the maximum spectral energy of high waves. The study shows that the measured wave spectra can be represented by JONSWAP spectra with the JONSWAP parameters estimated based on the equation proposed in this paper.     

浅海水下地形的SAR遥感仿真研究

结合连续性方程和布拉格后向散射模型,在准一维简化浅海水下地形情况下,建立了浅海水下地形SAR海面相对后向散射强度仿真模型,将浅海水下地形区域的SAR海面后向散射强度的相对变化与大尺度背景流场、海面风场和雷达系统参数等联系起来.海上实验和研究结果表明,浅海水下地形的SAR成像主要由通过受水下地形影响的海表层流场对海表面风引起的微尺度波的水动力调制而获取浅海水下地形信息,其中潮流与水下地形的相互作用过程改变海表层流场,变化的海表层流与海表面微尺度波之间的相互作用改变海表面波的空间分布,雷达波与海表面波之间的相互作用决定雷达海面后向散射强度.因此SAR图像中浅海水下地形或水深信息量的多少不仅与海表层流场和海面风速有关,而且与雷达工作波段、雷达波束入射角和极化方式也密切相关.认为由水下地形变化引起的缓慢变化的表层流场中海表面定常微尺度波谱能量密度的变化满足波作用量谱平衡方程;而在波数空间中,海表面微尺度波谱的成长过程也可以用波数谱平衡方程描述,在此基础上,得出了海表面波高频谱(毛细-重力波)形式的解析表达式.众所周知,浅海水下地形信息是由于水下地形影响下SAR海面后向散射强度与背景海面后向散射强度的相对差异而在SAR图像上的呈现,从而在建立浅海水下地形SAR海面相对后向散射强度仿真模型的基础上,仿真计算了浅海水下地形SAR海面相对后向散射强度相对于海表层流场、海面风场等海况参数和SAR工作波段、SAR波束入射角、极化方式等雷达系统参数的数值仿真结果,分析得到了有关浅海水下地形SAR海面相对后向散射强度的特征和SAR浅海水下地形遥感的最佳海况参数与最佳雷达系统参数,为研究和开展SAR浅海水下地形遥感研究提供了有价值的参考.     

光学浅水海草高光谱识别

以三亚湾泰莱藻为例, 对海草光谱特征进行分析。结果表明, 450—780nm是海草光谱主要敏感波段, 其波段内的导数光谱是海草叶面积大小序列辨别的有效依据。一阶导数获得的红边与叶片叶绿素a浓度密切相关。   海草在625nm、675nm 两处出现明显的导数特征峰, 两峰峰值相差较大; 其优势特征峰分布在550nm、700nm、750—780nm。实际应用中, 此特征可作为海草底质分类的识别条件, 与海草覆盖率和光谱特征的关系相结合, 可对大量的遥感数据进行识别, 从而达到大尺度遥感监测海草分布和动态变化的目的。     

Design of an integrated shallow water wave experiment

The experimental design and instrumentation for an integrated shallow-water surface gravity wave experiment is discussed. The experiment required the measurement of the water surface elevation, meteorological parameters, and directional spectra at a number of locations on a shallow lake. In addition, to acquire data under a wide range of conditions, an experimental period of three years was required. A system of telephone and radio modem links were installed to enable real-time monitoring of instrument performance at eight separate measurement locations on the lake. This system also enabled logging sessions to be optimized to ensure the maximum possible data return from this extended experiment     

Estimation of wave directional spreading in shallow water

This paper describes wave directional spreading in shallow water. Waves were measured for a period of 2 months using the Datawell directional waverider buoy at 15 m water depth on the east coast of India in the Bay of Bengal. The study also showed that in shallow water wave directional spreading was narrowest at peak frequency and widened towards lower and higher frequencies. The wind direction was found to deviate from the wave direction during most of the time. The unidirectional spectrum was found to be satisfactorily represented by Scott spectra.     

Representing frequency spectra for shallow water waves

Wind waves recorded in water from 1.4 to 3.8 m deep near the southeastern shore of Lake Erie during 1981 were used to compare two methods for representing wave spectra in shallow water. The results show that the semi-theoretical Wallops model, which requires total energy, peak energy frequency, and depth as parameters, provides fair agreement with observed spectra at the deeper stations but only marginal agreement in very shallow water. The general empirical model, which requires average frequency and energy density at the spectral peak as additional parameters, provides closer agreement with observed wave spectra for all depths.     

Fine-scale acoustic tomographic imaging of shallow water sediments

In acoustic tomographic system capable of performing in situ two-dimensional (2D) acoustic imaging of shallow water sediments is described. This system is capable of resolving inhomogeneities greater than 10 cm and differentiating sound-speed variations greater than 2%, A tomographic inversion is performed in a 2D vertical slice of about 1 m ² (1 m×1 m) using three identical probes, with each consisting of 70 evenly distributed transducers. In normal deployments, two of the probes are oriented vertically and are separated by about 1 meter, and the third is positioned horizontally right above the two vertical probes. The additional horizontal probe greatly improves the horizontal resolution of the system compared to conventional crosshole tomographic setups. Numerical simulations are performed to evaluate the influences of arrival time detection error and transducer position error on the performance of the tomography system. For an arrival time of 500 ns (standard deviation) and a position error of 4 mm (standard deviation), sound-speed anomalies of greater than 0.8% can be correctly predicted near the upper portion (close to the horizontal probe) and are resolvable near the lower portion. A controlled laboratory experiment was conducted to evaluate the performance of the system. The location of a polyurethane block (Conap EN22) used as a known target is correctly predicted while the inverted sound speed is about 9% lower than that from its actual value. Field data taken from a saturated muddy site are presented and analyzed. The inverted mean sound speed and attenuation are about 1480 ms^-1 and 20 dBm^-1, respectively     

Animal-sediment relations in shallow water benthic communities

Ninety benthic samples were used to study animal-sediment relations in Tomales Bay, California. While most of the benthic species studied were found more often in a particular type of substrate, individuals of such species were occasionally found in other substrates. There is a striking tendency for species occurring outside of their characteristic environment to be associated with the most diverse assemblages of the foreign substrate. Species low in the order of succession are those species that are found more frequently on other substrates. These phenomena are explained in terms of environmental stability. The concepts involved suggest a means of predicting the sequence of faunal changes following the alteration of the substrate.     

GEK measurements in a shallow water region

Evidence for the applicability of GEK (Geomagnetic Electrokinetography) measurements to shallow water regions is provided from observations in the shelf region of the East China Sea. The reason for the effectiveness of GEK measurements in this case is investigated theoretically, and it is shown to be attributable to the existence of a thick conductive sedimentary layer. In addition, it is shown that low conductive basement rock can be regarded as a good conductor for GEK measurements if the current width is broad enough and if the ratio of current width to water depth is larger than the resistivity ratio of basement rock to sea water. This implies that barotropic tidal currents can be measured with GEK in any ocean on the earth if they have significant magnitudes.     

浅水波长计算问题

浅水波周期保持常值,而波长缩减时其计算需进行迭代。提出了两个精度较高的经验公式供计算应用。水深波长比差值ΔLD0的变化规律反映出浅水波长缩减为一复杂过程,并与波能密度加大相关。LD0≤0.14时,特别是LD0=0.056前后,其特征会更加显著,由此可探讨波长变化的内在机理。     

Bound waves and triad interactions in shallow water

Boussinesq type equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics are derived and applied to study wave-wave interaction in shallow water. Weakly nonlinear solutions are formulated in terms of Fourier series with constant or spatially varying coefficients for two purposes: to derive higher order boundary conditions for regular and irregular wave trains and to derive evolution equations on constant or variable water depth. Wave transformation of monochromatic, bichromatic and irregular waves is studied and comparison with measurements and direct time domain solutions shows good agreement. The improvement relative to classical models from the literature is discussed.     

Wave diffraction by elliptical breakwaters in shallow water

The scattering of waves by both floating and submerged stationary elliptical breakwaters is investigated by means of linearised shallow water wave theory. This formulation leads to solutions for the fluid velocity potential in terms of Mathieu functions of real argument. Expressions are derived for the wave-induced forces and moments on the structures and their total and differential scattering cross-sections. Numerical results are presented for a range of wave and structural parameters.The present analysis serves as a prelude to a more comprehensive study of the problem without the shallow water restriction.     

Shoreline motion in nonlinear shallow water coastal models

Different shoreline boundary conditions for numerical models of the Non-Linear Shallow Water Equations based on Godunov-type schemes are compared. The study focuses on the Peregrine and Williams [Peregrine, D.H., Williams, S.M., 2001. Swash overtopping a truncated plane beach. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 440, 391–399.] problem of a single bore collapsing on a slope. This is considered the best test to assess performances of the shoreline boundary treatments in terms of all the parameters of interest in swash zone modelling. Emphasis is given to the shoreline trajectory and flow velocity modelling. A mismatch of the velocity at the early stage of the motion is highlighted. Most of the tested techniques perform similarly in terms of maximum run-up, the backwash phase is critical in all cases. Starting from the Brocchini et al. [Brocchini, M., Bernetti, R., Mancinelli, A., Albertini, G., 2001. An efficient solver for nearshore flows based on the WAF method. Coastal Engineering 43(2), 105–129.] shoreline boundary treatment, a simple technique that improves the accuracy of velocity predictions is also developed. A sensitivity analysis of the domain resolution and the threshold value of the water depth that defines a wet cell is also presented.     

On spectral and statistical characteristics of shallow water waves

Spectral, zero up-crossing and Tucker's methods of analysis are examined for shallow water wave records. Among the wave height parameters H_s and are most reliable and consistent irrespective of the analysis technique. Tucker analysis, though simple, seems versatile for estimating these wave height parameters. The standard period parameters are less consistent. For practical purposes every period that might reasonably occur has to be considered along with their corresponding height estimate. Joint distribution of heights and periods is in agreement with the function proposed by CNEXO.