Gravity torques for surface waves

The effects of the gravity torques acting on the angular momentum of surface gravity waves are calculated theoretically. For short crested waves the gravity torque is caused by the force of gravity on the orbiting fluid particles acting down the slopes of the crests and troughs and in the direction parallel to the crests and troughs. The gravity torque tries to rotate the angular momentum vectors, and thus the waves themselves, counterclockwise in the horizontal plane, as viewed from above, in both hemispheres. The amount of rotation per unit time is computed to be significant assuming reasonable values for the along-crest and trough slopes for waves in a storm area. The gravity torque has a frequency which is double the frequency of the waves. For long crested waves the gravity torque acts in the vertical plane of the orbit and tries to decelerate the particles when they rise and accelerate them when they fall. By disrupting the horizontal cyclostrophic balance of forces on the fluid particles (centrifugal force versus pressure force) the gravity torque accounts qualitatively for the three characteristics of breaking waves: that they break at the surface, that they break at the crest, and that the crest breaks in the direction of wave propagation.     

Wave setup and setdown generated by obliquely incident waves

An analytical theory is developed for the wave setup and setdown induced by obliquely incident waves on an impermeable swell-built beach profile. The wave setup and setdown are found to decrease as wave obliquity increases. The incorporation of wave obliquity in wave setup and setdown formulation offers the physical reality in engineering applications. The general solutions presented in this paper yield the limiting case of normal wave incidence and the result is consistent with the classical theories published. The present theory is primarily applicable to the spilling and plunging breaker across the surf zone, within which wave amplitude is assumed to be linearly related to the local water depth. Experiments were conducted in a large-scale wave basin to compare with theoretical results and especially to investigate the applicability of this assumption to the case of obliquely incident waves. The dimensionless setup versus the distance offshore within the surf zone is found to depend on wave breaking angle and the shape of the beach profile; and it has a non-zero value at the original shoreline position. This implies that the original shoreline will advance landwards, and that the extent of this movement can be related to wave angle at breaking and the beach profile under consideration. The results of the present theory are in good agreement with experimental data and field measurements available.     

Experimental study of near-bottom turbulence generated by internal waves

The results of field measurements of velocity pulsations in the near-bottom layer generated by internal waves (IW) propagating in the thermocline close to the bottom are reported. It is shown that the power of velocity pulsations in the frequency range 0.5–6 Hz can vary more than 1000 times during the passage of various phases of IW. As a result of the interaction with the bottom, internal waves are transformed into solitary soliton-type waves and these transformations are followed by intense turbulence generated in the near-bottom layer.Translated by M. M. Trufanov.     

海浪感应电磁场的理论计算

根据麦克斯韦电磁理论,在地磁场中运动的海水将产生感应电磁场。利用一个简单的数学物理模型对感应电磁场在海水内部的分布进行了计算,结果表明海浪产生的电磁场明显依赖于海浪波动的周期及浪高。在100 m的海水深度内,海浪产生的磁感应强度的大小为纳特数量级,而电场强度的大小为几个微伏每米。在同一海水深度处,磁感应强度随海水波动的周期呈现近线性变化,而电场强度的大小有一个极值,该极值随海水深度的增加向长周期方向移动。海浪产生的电磁场是影响海洋电磁探测数据精度的主要噪声之一。     

不规则波作用下沿岸流流速分布规律分析

基于MIKE21 PMS,对1/10、1/20、1/40、1/100四种不同坡度地形下不规则波浪产生的沿岸流进行数值模拟。将模拟得到的流速随着离开静水岸线距离的变化曲线进行无量纲化处理,并选用高斯分布函数对流速曲线进行拟合,进而得到高斯分布函数中流速最大值与其出现位置以及流速分布宽度等参数随着入射波浪要素和地形坡度的变化关系。研究结果表明,文中给出的高斯分布函数适用于描述不规则波浪作用生成的沿岸流流速分布规律。     

Studying internal gravity waves generated by atmospheric fronts over the Moscow region

Internal gravity wave (IGW) data obtained during the passage of atmospheric fronts over the Moscow region in June–July 2015 is analyzed. IGWs were recorded using a group of four microbarographs (developed at the Obukhov Institute of Atmospheric Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences) located at distances of 7 to 54 km between them. Regularities of variations in IGW parameters (spatial coherence, characteristic scales, propagation direction, horizontal propagation velocity, and amplitudes) before, during, and after the passage of an atmospheric front over the observation network, when the observation network finds itself inside the cyclone and outside the front, are studied. The results may be useful in studying the relationships between IGW effects in different physical fields at different atmospheric heights. It is shown that, within periods exceeding 30 min, IGWs are coherent between observation points horizontally spaced at distances of about 60 km (coherence coefficient is 0.6–0.9). It is also shown that there is coherence between wave fluctuations in atmospheric pressure and fluctuations in horizontal wind velocity within the height range 60–200 m. A joint analysis of both atmospheric pressure and horizontal wind fluctuations has revealed the presence of characteristic dominant periods, within which cross coherences between fluctuations in atmospheric pressure and wind velocity have local maxima. These periods are within approximate ranges of 20–29, 37–47, 62–72, and 100–110 min. The corresponding (to these dominant periods) phase propagation velocities of IGWs lie within an interval of 15–25 m/s, and the horizontal wavelengths vary from 52 to 99 km within periods of 35 to 110 min, respectively.     

Numerical simulation of tsunami waves generated by deformable submarine landslides

This paper presents a new submarine landslide model based on the non-hydrostatic wave model NHWAVE of Ma et al. (2012). The landslide is modeled as a water–sediment mixture. The dense plume is driven by baroclinic pressure forcing introduced by spatial density variations. The model is validated using laboratory measurements of turbidity currents and of water wave generation by a granular landslide. The model is then utilized to study the dependence of landslide motion and associated tsunami wave generation on parameters including sediment settling velocity, initial depth of the landslide and slide density. Model results show that the slide motion and water waves which it generates are both sensitive to these parameters. The relative tsunamigenic response to rigid and deformable landslides of equal initial geometry and density is also examined. It is found that the wave energy is mostly concentrated on a narrow band of the dominant slide direction for the waves generated by rigid landslides, while directional spreading is more significant for waves generated by deformable landslides. The deformable landslide has larger speed and acceleration at the early stage of landslide, resulting in larger surface waves. The numerical results indicate that the model is capable of reasonably simulating tsunami wave generation by submarine landslides.     

Long internal waves in the Tropical Atlantic ocean generated by periodic air pressure fluctuations

Taking into consideration stratification, the mean current velocity, and the tangential wind stress expressed in terms of air pressure fluctuations, we have derived iteration formulae and have performed computations of the amplitudinal characteristics of oceanic internal waves generated by air pressure waves of semi-diurnal and 4-day long periodicity propagating over the Tropical Atlantic Ocean. It has been demonstrated that such periodicity and wavelengths may contribute to the generation of long-amplitude internal waves, whose intensity is largely dependent on the direction of atmospheric wave propagation.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Observations of the spectra of hurricane generated waves

An extensive database of one-dimensional spectra observed during the passage of hurricanes is examined. Spectra recorded within eight times the radius to maximum winds of the centers of hurricanes are unimodal and remarkably similar to previously recorded fetch limited spectra. Parametric spectral forms such as JONSWAP and that of Donelan et al. approximate the data well. In addition, the functional dependence of the spectral parameters α and γ on the inverse wave age is consistent with that observed under fetch limited conditions. It is concluded that the similarity of the hurricane wave spectra to those observed for simpler fetch limited spectra is largely due to the effects of nonlinear interactions. The shape stabilizing effects of the nonlinear interactions reshape spectra consisting of a mix of swell and wind-sea to conform with typical one-dimensional fetch limited wind-sea forms.     

Numerical investigation of ocean waves generated by three typhoons in offshore China

The influences of the three types of reanalysis wind fields on the simulation of three typhoon waves occurred in2015 in offshore China were numerically investigated. The typhoon wave model was based on the simulating waves nearshore model(SWAN), in which the wind fields for driving waves were derived from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts(ECMWF) Re-Analysis-Interim(ERA-interim), the National Centers for Environmental Prediction climate forecast system version 2(CFSv2) and cr...     

Field observations of waves generated by passing ships: A note

This short contribution reports the results of a field study on the nearshore characteristics of waves generated by both conventional and high speed passenger ferries. The field observations took place in the late summer of 2005, at a beach close to the port of Mytilene (Island of Lesbos, Greece), and involved the visual observation of ship waves, using digital video recordings and image processing techniques. The results showed that passage of the fast ferry was associated with a longer, more complex and energetic nearshore event; this event not only did include higher nearshore waves (up to 0.74 m) and was organised in different wave packets, but it was also an order of magnitude longer (∼ 680 s) than the conventional ferry event. Regarding the effects on beach sediment dynamics, the fast ferry waves were estimated to be very efficient in mobilising the nearshore sediments in contrast to those of the conventional ferry. The fast ferry service appears to generate daily prolonged nearshore events, which contain waves with higher energy than those expected from the normal summer wind wave regime of the area; these events also include some high and very steep waves, which can be particularly erosive. Therefore, fast ferry wakes may have considerable impacts on the seasonal beach sediment dynamics/morphodynamics and the nearshore benthic ecology, as well as they may pose significant risks to bathers, affecting the recreational use of the beaches exposed to fast ferry traffic. Finally, the study has shown that satisfactory field observations of the nearshore characteristics of ship-generated (and wind) waves can be obtained using inshore deployments of calibrated poles, digital video cameras and appropriate image processing algorithms.     

2008年中国沿岸冬季寒潮激发陆架波的小波分析

This study applies the wavelet analysis to the tidal gauge records, alongshore winds, atmospheric temperature and pressure along the China coast in winter 2008. The analysis results show three events of sea level oscillations(SLOs) on the shelf induced by winter storms. The first event occurred from January 9 to 21. The SLO periods were double-peaked at 1.6–5.3 and 7.0–16.0 d with the power densities of 0.04–0.05 and 0.10–0.15 m2·d, respectively.The second event occurred from February 5 to 18. The SLO period was single-peaked at 2.3–3.5 d with power density of 0.03–0.04 m2·d. The third event occurred from February 20 to March 8. The SLO periods were doublepeaked at 1.5–4.3 and 6.1–8.2 d with the power densities of 0.08–0.11 and 0.02–0.08 m2·d, respectively. The SLOs propagated along the coast from Zhejiang in north to Guangdong in south. The phase speeds ranged about 9–29m/s from Kanmen to Pingtan, 5–11 m/s from Xiamen to Huizhou and 11–22 m/s from Huizhou to Shuidong. The dispersion relation of the SLOs shows their nature of coastal-trapped wave.     

Wave types of landslide generated impulse waves

Subaerial landslide generated impulse waves were investigated in a prismatic wave channel. Seven governing parameters, namely the still water depth, slide impact velocity, slide thickness, bulk slide volume, bulk slide density, slide impact angle, and grain diameter, were systematically varied. The generated impulse waves are nonlinear, intermediate- to shallow-water waves involving a small to considerable fluid mass transport. The Stokes wave, cnoidal wave, solitary wave, and bore theories were applied to describe the observed maximum waves. The theoretical and observed features of these four wave types are highlighted. A diagram allows to predict the wave type directly as a function of the slide parameters, the slide impact angle, and the still water depth.     

The effect of self-induction on magnetic field generated by sea surface waves

The generation of a magnetic field by surface waves in a sea of finite depth is considered. The effect of self-induction on this process is analyzed and the conditions under which self-induction is of considerable importance are determined. The effects that sea depth, wave period, and wave-propagation direction have on the value and direction of the magnetic field induced are studied.     

Numerical modeling of wind waves generated by tropical cyclones using moving grids

A version of the WAVEWATCH III wave model featuring a continuously moving spatial grid is presented. The new model option/version is intended for research into wind waves generated by tropical cyclones in deep water away from the coast. The main advantage of such an approach is that the cyclones can be modeled with spatial grids that cover much smaller areas than conventional fixed grids, making model runs with high spatial resolution more economically feasible. The model modifications necessary are fairly trivial. Most complications occur due to the Garden Sprinkler effect (GSE) and methods used to mitigate it. The basic testing of the model is performed using idealized wind fields consisting of a Rankine vortex. The model is also applied to hurricane Lili in the Gulf of Mexico in October 2002. The latter application shows that the moving grid approach provides a natural way to deal with hurricane wind fields that have a high-resolution in space, but a low resolution in time. Although the new model version is originally intended for tropical cyclones, it is suitable for high-resolution modeling of waves due to any moving weather pattern.     

Water waves generated by an impulsive bed upthrust of a rectangular block

A theoretical and digital simulation on waves generated by an impulsive bed upthrust of a rectangular block with various ratios of length/width is presented. The two-dimensional fast Fourier transform (FFT) algorithm is used to obtain the water surface profile near the generation region. The three-dimensional pictures were constructed from an array of 256 × 256 pixel by using image processing. Comparison of the present three-dimensional results, with previously published two-dimensional results, indicates that for large length/width ratios, the water surface profile is quite similar at certain locations for a small time after the impulsive bed motion is completed. Generally, the water surface profiles deviate significantly from the two-dimensional results.     

Focusing of internal waves generated by the nonuniform motion of a region of atmospheric pressures

In the linear statement of the problem, by using the long-wave approximation, we study the possibility of generation of significant disturbances in a continuously stratified fluid by the nonuniform motion of a region of atmospheric pressures. We consider the case where the disturbances of the medium propagating from a part of the trajectory of motion of the generator simultaneously arrive at a selected point of the space (focus). The amplitude of disturbances in the focus is evaluated for an arbitrary motion of the region of pressures, which may lead to the analyzed effect. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 5, pp. 22–29, September–October, 2006.