The energy balance in the wind-wave spectrum

The spectral energy balance in the wind-wave spectrum is studied with taking into account the energy input from turbulent wind to waves, the energy rearrangement due to conservative nonlinear wave-wave interaction and the energy dissipation due to water turbulence. Using the Ichikawa's (1978) model on the turbulent wind field over wind-waves and assuming that the energy dissipation is times greater than that due to molecular viscosity of water, the energy input and dissipation are determined so as to satisfy the condition that the nonlinear-transfers of momentum and energy conserve the total momentum and energy of waves. The nonlinear energy-transfer is estimated from the energy balance at each frequency. It is found that the energy input and dissipation satisfying the condition on the conservative nonlinear-transfer are determined by the characteristic height of wind-wave field and the friction velocity of air, and that the spectral distribution of the nonlinear energy-transfer estimated in this paper is qualitatively similar to that estimated by the non-linear wave-wave interaction theory ofHasselmann (1962).     

A proposed directional function and wind-wave directional spectrum

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Computation of wind-wave spectra in coastal waters with SWAN on unstructured grids

An unstructured-grid procedure for SWAN is presented. It is a vertex-based, fully implicit, finite difference method which can accommodate unstructured meshes with a high variability in geographic resolution suitable for representing complicated bottom topography in shallow areas and irregular shoreline. The numerical solution is found by means of a point-to-point multi-directional Gauss–Seidel iteration method requiring a number of sweeps through the grid. The approach is stable for any time step while permitting local mesh refinements in areas of interest. A number of applications are shown to verify the correctness and numerical accuracy of the unstructured version of SWAN.     

Analytically derived wind-wave directional spectrum part 2. Characteristics,comparison and verification of spectrum

The dependence of the angular spreading on frequency and wind-wave growth status is discussed in great detail for the proposed spectrum. The calculated angular spreading agrees with the measurements of Donelanet al. but is slightly broader. Explanation is given to the appearance of the narrowest spreading at a frequency slightly smaller than that of the wind-wave frequency spectrum peak as found by these authors. There is also basic agreement between the calculated spreading and the formulas of Mitsuyasuet al. and Hasselmannet al. for the specific wind-wave status on which these empirical formulas are based, though the former is narrower. The wind-wave frequency spectrum obtained by integrating the proposed directional spectrum with respect to direction agrees with the JONSWAP spectrum and that derived by the authors previously. The proposed spectrum is preliminarily verified with field data obtained by optical method.Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China.     

Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in deep water——Ⅰ. Form of spectrum

In this part ot the paper theoretical wind-wave spectra nave been derived oy (I) expressing the spectrum in series composed of exponential terms; (2) assuming that the spectrum satisfies a high order linear ordinary differential equation; (3) introducing proper parameters in the spectrum; and (4) making use of some known charateristics of wind-wave spectrum, for instance, the law governing the equilibrium range. The spectrum obtained contains the zero order moment of the spectrum m0, the peak frequency ω0 and the ratio R =ω/ω0 (ω being the mean zero-crossing frequency) as parameters. The shape of the nondimensional spectrum S(ω) = ω0S(ω)/m0(ω=ω/ω0) changes with R and theoretically reduces to a Dirac delta function δ(ω-1) when R = 1. A spectrum of simplified form is given for practical uses, in which R is replaced by a peakness factor P=S(1).     

风浪和涌浪分离方法的比较

海浪通常以风浪和涌浪混合的形式存在。文中利用模型试验和实测资料,对目前提出的一种二维谱风涌浪分离方法(2D法)和3种一维谱风涌浪分离方法(PM法、WH法、JP法)进行了检验,分析发现:2D法给出的结果整体而言最为可靠,与2D法相比,PM法明显高估了风浪成分,WH法低风速时高估了风浪,高风速时跟2D法比较接近,而JP法在整体上高估了风浪成分。通过调整分割频率的比例系数,改进了PM法,改进后的PM法给出的分离结果与2D法最为一致。     

Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water

The method developed by Wen et al. (1988 a) for deriving theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum in deep water is extended to the case of water of finite depth, in which a parameter η=H/d is introduced, where H and d represent the average wave height and water depth respectively. The derived spectra reduce to those in deep water when η=0. The case of η=1/2 corresponds to waves impending to break because of the effect of the bottom. Simplified forms of spectra are given. The theoretical results agree with the observed spectra well.     

台湾海峡风涌浪分离方法研究

受狭管效应的影响,台湾海峡波浪较大且常与涌浪混合存在。涌浪对包括船舶在内的浮式结构物有着重要的影响,而风涌浪分离是研究涌浪特性的必要前提,也一直是研究的热点和困难问题。由于数据的欠缺和观测条件的限制,在风涌浪分离方法中被普遍认可的二维谱方法常常难以使用,如何选择更为精准的一维谱方法往往会成为实际研究和应用过程中必须面对的问题。利用台湾海峡内3个具有二维谱数据的测站,通过将二维谱分离结果作为参考,针对台湾海峡风浪和涌浪的特征,探讨了风涌浪分离一维谱方法在该海域的适用性问题,研究表明风速法相较其他方法精度更好,在这一基础上提出了一种将波谱积分法与风速法相结合的一维谱方法。     

基于多层感知器的风涌浪分离方法

风涌浪分离是研究风浪、涌浪各自特性的基础,但受限于海浪谱数据的匮乏,基于海浪谱的风涌浪分离方法难以普及应用,有效的解决办法是采用波浪观测中容易获取的基本波要素进行风涌浪分离。现有方法无法利用基本波要素全面计算出风浪、涌浪的比例及其特征参数,为此本文将机器学习引入到风涌浪分离中,以多层感知器模型为基础,提出了一种利用基本波要素、风要素准确计算出风涌浪参数的方法。该方法需要每个测站提供至少466笔、建议766笔及以上的实测波浪数据作为训练样本,适用于台湾海峡3个测站,在计算精度上显著优于基于海浪频谱的传统风涌浪分离方法,可为本海域缺乏海浪谱的测站提供替代性的风涌浪计算方案,有助于扩大实测风涌浪资料的来源,进而加强风涌浪分布特性以及预警预报研究。     

Outer frequency spectrum of sea waves and its equilibrium range

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Determining the influence of wind-wave breaking on the dissipation of the turbulent kinetic energy in the upper ocean and on the dependence of the turbulent kinetic energy on the stage of wind-wave development

New experimental data that make it possible to explain and predict the observed variability of turbulent-energy dissipation in the upper ocean are discussed. For this purpose, the dependence of the energy dissipation rate of breaking wind waves on their propagation velocity (see [1]) is used. The turbulent-energy dissipation values obtained earlier in [2, 3] by a direct method are compared to the results of radar measurements of individual breaking events presented in [1]. On the basis of this comparison, a strong dependence of the turbulent-energy dissipation value on the stage of wind-wave development, which is characterized by the ratio U _a /c _p (U _a is the wind speed and c _p is the phase speed of the peak of the wind-wave spectrum) is confirmed. This dependence was found earlier purely empirically. Moreover, it is shown that the theoretically obtained dependence (c _p /U _a )⁴, does not contradict the available empirical data. The results of this study opens possibilities for scientifically substantiated calculations of greenhouse-gas exchange (specifically, CO₂ exchange between the ocean and the atmosphere).     

浙江近岸海域表层沉积物中氮的存在形态及其含量的分布特征

运用分相浸取法分析了浙江近岸海域60个站位的表层沉积物(0～2 cm)中各形态氮的含量和分布.研究结果表明,表层沉积物中总氮(TN)含量为214.66～861.44 mg/kg,均值为580.52mg/kg,位于浅水区的长江口、杭州湾和浙江沿岸的TN含量低于东部远岸海域;可转化态氮(TTN)含量只占总氮的3.06%～37.24%,有机态和硫化物结合态氮(OSF-N)是沉积物中可转化态氮的主要赋存形态,非转化态氮(NTN)是浙江近岸海域表层沉积物中的优势形态.各站位沉积物中氮在不同提取相中的含量差异较大,与沉积物的陆源输入、沉积物重金属含量、粒径分布及沉积海域的水动力条件等因素有关.     

Study of chemical forms of phosphorus and their bioavailability in the sediments

Chemical forms of phosphorus in the sediments of the Daya Bay, the Zhujiang River estuary, and the Xiamen Bay are measured with extraction solutions of MgCl2, NaOH, and HC1. Their availabilities to Chlorella sp. and Isochrysis galbana are estimated by using sediments as the sole source of P in the bioassays. The results show that the contents of total phosphorus (TP) in these sediments are 449.3, 650.1 and 643.9 mg/kg, respectively. The contents of nonapatite inorganic P (NAIP) extracted with MgCl2 and NaOH from 3 sediments are 168.8, 146.6 and 118.1 mg/kg,respectively, and account for 18.3% ～32.6% of TP. The phosphorus extracted with HCl solution is greater than that extracted with NaOH solution and the lowest extracted P is MgCl2-extractable P. The greatest relative growth rates of Chlorella sp. and Isochrysis galbana cultured with sediments are in the range of 4.3% ～26.9%. The increasing biomasses of these algae correspond to NAIP andAAPP (the estimated algal-available particulate P). AAPP accounts for 42.4% ～78.2% of NAIP, 21.1% ～ 27.1% of total inorganic P, and 11.8% ～ 20.3% of TP, respectively.     

沉积物中磷的存在形态及其生物可利用性研究

用MgCl₂,NaOH和HCl对大亚湾的大鹏澳、南海的珠江口、厦门湾的胡里山沉积物进行了逐级提取和总磷分析,并以这3种沉积物为惟一磷源培养小球藻和球等鞭金藻,估算了藻类对沉积物中磷的可利用量.结果表明,3种沉积物总磷含量分别为449.3,650.1和643.9mg/kg;MgCl₂和NaOH提取的生物可利用的非磷灰石无机磷分别为168.8,146.6和118.1mg/kg.非磷灰石无机磷占总磷的18.3%～32.6%.3种提取剂对3种沉积物提取的磷是HCl提取相最大,NaOH提取相次之,MgCl₂提取相最小.小球藻和球等鞭金藻在3种沉积物中的最大相对生长率为4.3%～26.9%,两种藻在3种沉积物中的生长与非磷灰石无机磷和藻类可利用的颗粒磷量相对应.颗粒磷占非磷灰石无机磷的42.4%～78.2%,占沉积物中总无机磷的21.1%～27.1%,占总磷的11.8%～20.3%.     

Study of chemical forms of phosphorus and their bioavailability in the sediments

Chemical forms of phosphorus in the sediments of the Daya Bay, the Zhujiang River estuary, and the Xiamen Bay are measured with extraction solutions of MgCl2, NaOH, and HCl. Their availabilities to Chlorella sp. and Isochrysis galbana are estimated by using sediments as the sole source of P in the bioassays. The results show that the contents of total phosphorus (TP) in these sediments are 449.3, 650.1 and 643.9 mg/kg, respectively. The contents of non-apatite inorganic P (NAIP) extracted with MgCl2 and NaOH from 3 sediments are 168.8, 146.6 and 118.1 mg/kg,respectively, and account for 18.3%～32.6% of TP. The phosphorus extracted with HCI solution is greater than that extracted with NaOH solution and the lowest extracted P is MgCl2-extractable P. The greatest relative growth rates of Chlorella sp. and Isochrysis galbana cultured with sediments are in the range of 4.3%～26.9%. The increasing biomasses of these algae correspond to NAIP and AAPP (the estimated algal-available particulate P). AAPP accounts for 42.4%～78.2% of NAIP, 21.1%～27.1% of total inorganic P, and 11.8%～20.3% of TP, respectively.     

基于微结构图像的风生微尺度波频率谱初探

利用海面微结构光学测量装置实验获取到的微尺度波图像来给出风生微尺度波的波数谱,在此基础上利用频散关系建立微尺度波波数谱和频率谱之间的关系,最终得到微尺度波频率谱。对微尺度波的频率谱随频率变化的响应进行了研究,发现频率谱与频率的α次方成正比关系,α的值随风速的增加而增加,同一风速下α几乎为定值。     

基于微结构图像的风生微尺度波频率谱初探

利用海面微结构光学测量装置实验获取到的微尺度波图像来给出风生微尺度波的波数谱,在此基础上利用频散关系建立微尺度波波数谱和频率谱之间的关系,最终得到微尺度波频率谱.对微尺度波的频率谱随频率变化的响应进行了研究,发现频率谱与频率的a次方成正比关系,a的值随风速的增加而增加,同一风速下a几乎为定值.     

Observation of wave transformation on a sloping type B shore platform under wind-wave and swell conditions

An instrumented field study of the across-shore evolution of wave characteristics was conducted under wind-wave and swell-wave conditions on a sloping type B shore platform along the mesotidal, fetch-limited coast of Auckland, New Zealand, based on spectral analysis of hydrodynamic data recorded in pressure-sensor time series during a 24-h deployment on 24–25 November 2008. The results highlight the ability of the shore platform in dissipating wave energy reaching the cliff toe under wind-wave and swell-wave conditions, and the spectral redistribution of wave energy. As waves propagated onto the platform surface and towards the cliff toe, infragravity-wave energy became progressively more dominant, while gravity waves were dissipated. Wave height and period in the central sector of the platform and at the cliff toe were not markedly affected by differences in incident-wave conditions observed during the survey. The findings confirm the importance of platform morphology in modulating wave-energy delivery to the cliff toe. In contrast to previous studies, infragravity-wave height at the cliff toe did not appear to be correlated to incident-wave conditions.     

变水深对畸形波及其时频能量谱的影响

使用VOF (volume of fluid)方法实现了变化水深条件下畸形波的数值模拟,使用小波分析方法计算模拟结果的时频能量谱,发现变化水深可以加强波浪的非线性相互作用,使转化到高频端的能量更多,产生了不对称程度更大的畸形波.     

小波变换在HT-7Tokamak磁流体动力学振荡动态频谱分析中的应用

将Gauss复小波变换方法成功地应用于HT-7Tokamak磁流体动力学振荡动态频谱分析中.研究结果表明,这种方法具有较好的时间分辨率和空间分辨率,比较适用做动态频谱分析.对典型放电数据的分析结果表明, m=1模的振荡频率与等离子体压强梯度有着密切的关系.