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1.
The accumulation of large and small plastic debris is a problem throughout the world's oceans and coastlines. Abundances and types of small plastic debris have only been reported for some isolated beaches in the SE Pacific, but these data are insufficient to evaluate the situation in this region. The citizen science project "National Sampling of Small Plastic Debris” was supported by schoolchildren from all over Chile who documented the distribution and abundance of small plastic debris on Chilean beaches. Thirty-nine schools and nearly 1000 students from continental Chile and Easter Island participated in the activity. To validate the data obtained by the students, all samples were recounted in the laboratory. The results of the present study showed that the students were able to follow the instructions and generate reliable data. The average abundance obtained was 27 small plastic pieces per m2 for the continental coast of Chile, but the samples from Easter Island had extraordinarily higher abundances (>800 items per m2). The abundance of small plastic debris on the continental coast could be associated with coastal urban centers and their economic activities. The high abundance found on Easter Island can be explained mainly by the transport of plastic debris via the surface currents in the South Pacific Subtropical Gyre, resulting in the accumulation of small plastic debris on the beaches of the island. This first report of the widespread distribution and abundance of small plastic debris on Chilean beaches underscores the need to extend plastic debris research to ecological aspects of the problem and to improve waste management.  相似文献   

2.
塑料污染现象在世界各地海滩随处可见, 日益成为海洋环境中的重要威胁。文章调查了西沙海域甘泉岛和全富岛海滩的塑料污染分布情况, 结果显示, 尽管研究区域远离大陆, 人类活动影响较小, 但是海岛海滩上的塑料污染普遍存在, 塑料垃圾(>5mm)的平均分布丰度为(85.07±70.48)个∙m-2, 平均重量为(40.23±78.15)g∙m-2; 微塑料(<5mm)的平均分布丰度为(1774.75±1534.37)个∙m-2或(100.82±87.18)个∙kg-1。塑料垃圾和微塑料在不同海岛间的丰度分布均无显著性的差异, 但无论是塑料垃圾的丰度还是微塑料的丰度, 在环礁内侧海滩都显著高于环礁外侧海滩。此外, 微塑料的丰度分布与塑料垃圾的丰度分布呈显著的线性相关。红外光谱分析得出塑料聚合物主要成分有聚苯乙烯、聚丙烯和聚乙烯等, 其中以聚苯乙烯泡沫的比例占优。甘泉岛和全富岛海滩的塑料污染主要是通过其他地区的外源性塑料输送而来, 其在海岛上的不均匀空间分布受到区域海流作用、水动力条件、塑料降解等多种因素的影响。  相似文献   

3.
《Journal of Sea Research》2011,65(4):494-504
Turbot (Psetta maxima Linnaeus) is a high value commercially exploited marine flatfish which occurs in European waters, from the Northeast Atlantic to the Arctic Circle, the Baltic and Mediterranean Sea. In Ireland, turbot are the most valuable commercial non-quota species. Very little is known about their population dynamics in the wild, in particular during the sandy beach nursery phase of the life history. In 2000, a survey was established to assess flatfish species on nursery grounds on the west coast of Ireland. Eleven sandy beaches were assessed for 0+ turbot by beach seining, over an eight year period (2000–2007) during the months of August and September. The objective of the study was to estimate juvenile turbot abundance and size structure to determine if any spatial and annual trends existed. Large scale variability in the recruitment of fish to nursery grounds may be indicative of fluctuations in the adult stock. Turbot were found to recruit to five beaches consistently over the eight year period. Temporal and spatial variability in the relative abundance and length of turbot was discerned, with no apparent overall trend. However, certain nursery grounds were shown in most of the years examined to support higher abundances of turbot in comparison to other areas over the eight year period. Turbot abundances on nursery grounds were significantly correlated with mean spring sea temperatures during the pelagic stage. The condition of turbot did not significantly differ on an annual or spatial scale. Mean densities of 0+ turbot along the Irish coast were found to be similar and at times higher than other areas in Europe, ranging from 0.1 (± 0.3) individuals 1000 m 2 to 18.5 (± 6.9) individuals 1000 m 2. Mean turbot total length on beaches ranged from 3.8 cm (± 0.6) to 6.6 cm (± 4.3). The observed spatial and temporal variability in abundance and length highlights the need for long-term studies when assessing juvenile flatfish populations. Results from the present study have provided much needed baseline data on wild juvenile turbot populations which is severely lacking for this species both on an Irish and on a European scale.  相似文献   

4.
The purpose of this study was to examine the distribution, abundance and characteristics of plastic particles in plankton samples collected routinely in Northeast Pacific ecosystems, and to contribute to the development of ideas for future research into the occurrence and impact of small plastic debris in marine pelagic ecosystems. Plastic debris particles were assessed from zooplankton samples collected as part of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration's (NOAA) ongoing ecosystem surveys during two research cruises in the Southeast Bering Sea in the spring and fall of 2006 and four research cruises off the U.S. west coast (primarily off southern California) in spring, summer and fall of 2006, and in January of 2007. Nets with 0.505 mm mesh were used to collect surface samples during all cruises, and sub-surface samples during the four cruises off the west coast. The 595 plankton samples processed indicate that plastic particles are widely distributed in surface waters. The proportion of surface samples from each cruise that contained particles of plastic ranged from 8.75 to 84.0%, whereas particles were recorded in sub-surface samples from only one cruise (in 28.2% of the January 2007 samples). Spatial and temporal variability was apparent in the abundance and distribution of the plastic particles and mean standardized quantities varied among cruises with ranges of 0.004-0.19 particles/m3, and 0.014-0.209 mg dry mass/m3. Off southern California, quantities for the winter cruise were significantly higher, and for the spring cruise significantly lower than for the summer and fall surveys (surface data). Differences between surface particle concentrations and mass for the Bering Sea and California coast surveys were significant for pair-wise comparisons of the spring but not the fall cruises. The particles were assigned to three plastic product types: product fragments, fishing net and line fibers, and industrial pellets; and five size categories: <1 mm, 1-2.5 mm, >2.5-5 mm, >5-10 mm, and >10 mm. Product fragments accounted for the majority of the particles, and most were less than 2.5 mm in size. The ubiquity of such particles in the survey areas and predominance of sizes <2.5 mm implies persistence in these pelagic ecosystems as a result of continuous breakdown from larger plastic debris fragments, and widespread distribution by ocean currents. Detailed investigations of the trophic ecology of individual zooplankton species, and their encounter rates with various size ranges of plastic particles in the marine pelagic environment, are required in order to understand the potential for ingestion of such debris particles by these organisms. Ongoing plankton sampling programs by marine research institutes in large marine ecosystems are good potential sources of data for continued assessment of the abundance, distribution and potential impact of small plastic debris in productive coastal pelagic zones.  相似文献   

5.
海滩对风暴的响应是一个复杂的过程,尤其在连续风暴发生时。本研究利用Argus视频监测系统拍摄的连续图像,从海滩地貌、剖面、海滩滨线、海滩宽度等方面,定量分析了舟山东沙海滩对连续风暴"马勒卡"和"暹芭"的响应特征,并初步探讨了影响海滩地形地貌变化对连续风暴响应的因素。结果表明:(1)风暴"马勒卡"发生后海滩单宽体积变化量平均值为?73.75m3/m,风暴"暹芭"发生后海滩单宽体积变化量的平均值为?54.56m3/m,风暴"马勒卡"使整个海滩滨线平均后退14.75m,风暴"暹芭"使得海滩滨线相对于两次风暴前后退10.91m;(2)在海滩自身因素、外部动力因素以及人类活动等共同作用下海滩对连续风暴产生了复杂的响应。  相似文献   

6.
Turbot (Psetta maxima Linnaeus) is a high value commercially exploited marine flatfish which occurs in European waters, from the Northeast Atlantic to the Arctic Circle, the Baltic and Mediterranean Sea. In Ireland, turbot are the most valuable commercial non-quota species. Very little is known about their population dynamics in the wild, in particular during the sandy beach nursery phase of the life history. In 2000, a survey was established to assess flatfish species on nursery grounds on the west coast of Ireland. Eleven sandy beaches were assessed for 0+ turbot by beach seining, over an eight year period (2000–2007) during the months of August and September. The objective of the study was to estimate juvenile turbot abundance and size structure to determine if any spatial and annual trends existed. Large scale variability in the recruitment of fish to nursery grounds may be indicative of fluctuations in the adult stock. Turbot were found to recruit to five beaches consistently over the eight year period. Temporal and spatial variability in the relative abundance and length of turbot was discerned, with no apparent overall trend. However, certain nursery grounds were shown in most of the years examined to support higher abundances of turbot in comparison to other areas over the eight year period. Turbot abundances on nursery grounds were significantly correlated with mean spring sea temperatures during the pelagic stage. The condition of turbot did not significantly differ on an annual or spatial scale. Mean densities of 0+ turbot along the Irish coast were found to be similar and at times higher than other areas in Europe, ranging from 0.1 (± 0.3) individuals 1000 m− 2 to 18.5 (± 6.9) individuals 1000 m− 2. Mean turbot total length on beaches ranged from 3.8 cm (± 0.6) to 6.6 cm (± 4.3). The observed spatial and temporal variability in abundance and length highlights the need for long-term studies when assessing juvenile flatfish populations. Results from the present study have provided much needed baseline data on wild juvenile turbot populations which is severely lacking for this species both on an Irish and on a European scale.  相似文献   

7.
In this study, long-term, broad-scale zooplankton survey data were used to estimate the temporal and spatial distribution and abundance of gammarid amphipods present in the water column on Georges Bank. Delta-mean abundances computed from 10 years of data showed that gammarid amphipod abundances peaked in summer and again in fall. The amphipods were also most numerous in water less than 50 m deep. The statistical tests employed revealed no conclusive evidence for diurnal vertical migration. Interannual delta-mean abundances fluctuated approximately 5-fold between 1977 and 1986, ranging from 217 to 1181 amphipods 100 m−3. Peak amphipod biomass occurred in July and was estimated to be 2.8 kcal m−2. Using production-to-biomass ratios from the literature, mean annual production of amphipods in these samples was estimated to be between 1.6 and 9.8 kcal m−2. Production in shallow areas was especially high, 22 kcal m−2 year−1.  相似文献   

8.
The aim of this study was to evaluate topographic changes along a stretch of coastline in the Municipality of Borghetto Santo Spirito (Region of Liguria, Italy, north-western Mediterranean) by means of a remotely piloted aircraft system coupled with structure from motion and multi-view stereo techniques. This sector was surveyed three times over 5 months in the fall–winter of 2013–2014 (1 November 2013, 4 December 2013, 17 March 2014) to obtain digital elevation models and orthophotos of the beach. Changes in beach topography associated with storm action and human activities were assessed in terms of gain/loss of sediments and shifting of the wet–dry boundary defining the shoreline. Between the first and second surveys, the study area was hit by two storms (10–11 November 2013 and 21–22 November 2013) with waves approaching from the E–NNE, causing a shoreline retreat which, in some sectors, reached 7 m. Between the second and third surveys, by contrast, four storms (25–27 December 2013, 5–6 January 2014, 17–18 January 2014 and 6–10 February 2014) with waves propagating from the SE produced a general advancement of the shoreline (up to ~5 m) by deposition of sediments along some parts of the beach. The data also reflect changes in beach topography due to human activity during the 2013 fall season, when private beach managers quarried ~178 m3 of sediments on the emerged beach near the shoreline to accumulate them landwards. The results show that drones can be used for regular beach monitoring activities, and that they can provide new insights into the processes related to natural and/or human-related topographic beach changes.  相似文献   

9.
Abstract. Eight sandy beaches were seasonally sampled along the coast of Chile, from ca. 21 to 42° S (about 3000 km) to study the relationship between community structure of the intertidal macroinfauna and beach characteristics. Sediment samples (0.1 m2, 30 cm deep) were collected (July – September 1998 and December 1998 – January 1999) with plastic cylinders at 15 equally spaced levels along three replicated transects extending from above the drift line to the swash zone. The sediment was sieved through a 1 mm mesh and the organisms collected stored in 5 % formalin. To define beach types, Dean's parameter (Ω) was calculated from wave heights and periods, and fall velocity of sand particles from the swash zone. Crustaceans (mainly peracarids) were the most diverse group with 14 species, followed by polychaetes with 5 species. The talitrid amphipod Orchestoidea tuberculata , the cirolanid isopods Excirolana braziliensis and E. hirsuticauda and the anomuran decapod Emerita analoga were the most widely distributed and common species. Regression analyses between species richness, abundance and biomass of the whole macroinfauna versus sediment characteristics, beach face slopes and morphodynamic beach states showed no significant relationships. Thus, macroinfaunal community characteristics did not increase linearly from lower intermediate to higher intermediate or dissipative beach states as had been found before in Chile or in other coasts. A comparative analysis with data from sandy beaches of other world regions showed that the number of species inhabiting Chilean sandy beaches was generally lower, whereas total population abundances were generally higher compared with values reported elsewhere.  相似文献   

10.
受自然变化和人类活动影响,全球海滩普遍侵蚀。研究基于大量卫星图像评估海滩演变的方法,对于缺乏实测资料的海滩的侵蚀防护具有重要意义。使用1984~2021年的993幅卫星图像,采用聚焦剖面的亚像素海岸线识别方法识别水边线和干湿线位置,进一步得出平均高、低潮线,沟槽中线和沙坝坝顶位置,利用多指标重建汇泉湾海滩地形地貌的时空演变。使用固定地物对Sentinel卫星图像进行了地理精校正,基于海滩实测结果评估了海滩岸线位置误差。结果显示,平均高潮线、沟槽中线和沙坝坝顶的系统误差和随机误差以及平均低潮线的随机误差均较小,但平均低潮线的系统误差偏大。研究结果还揭示青岛汇泉湾海滩近40年的地形和地貌演变主要受人类活动影响。海滩平均高潮线在2003年海滩整治和补沙后由稳定转为蚀退,在2017年海滩补沙后淤进减缓;沙坝和沟槽的演变则与2002年海滩东南部码头拆除有关。建议重视研究区沙坝和沟槽近期变化,定期监测以进一步掌握其演变规律,并向沙坝和沟槽补细砂维护汇泉湾海滩。  相似文献   

11.
为了解西太平洋菲律宾海浮游动物丰度和生物量的水平分布特征,于2012年11月26日至2012年12月12日对菲律宾海上层海洋(0—200m)的浮游动物进行了调查。调查站位分别位于受赤道逆流(NECC)、棉兰老流(MC)、北赤道流(NEC)和黑潮(KC)影响的海域。通过比较浮游动物的丰度和生物量(分别用干重,灰分,无灰干重和含能量等指标表示),探讨不同海流中浮游动物的分布特征。结果表明:桡足类、毛颚类和水母类是菲律宾海浮游动物的三大主要类群。调查海域浮游动物丰度为11—116ind./m3,NECC区平均丰度最高((96±28)ind./m3),然后依次是MC区和KC区,NEC区最小((26±9)ind./m3)。在浮游动物生物量(干重)方面,同样NECC区最高((3.25±1.11)mg/m3),其次为MC区,但是平均丰度最小的NEC区生物量超过KC区。造成这一差异的主要原因,可能是由于KC区的浮游动物具有更高的含水量以及较小个体所占比例较高。不同水团之间浮游动物灰分、无灰干重和含能量的分布特征与干重相一致。结合环境因子分析显示,上升流、叶绿素a、初级生产力、海流和温度等因素对浮游动物的分布具有一定影响。  相似文献   

12.
The ecology of the family Pinnidae was studied by sampling three pinnid species from 36 sampling sites across four different microhabitats in the Gulf of Thailand. The species spatial distributions were mostly uniform, with some populations having random distributions. Species abundances differed between sandy and coral habitats according to non-metric multi-dimension scaling analyses. Although the Gulf of Thailand is a relatively small geographic area, habitats are varied enough to provide variable shell densities. Small islands are important distribution areas, and coral reefs provide both direct and indirect shelter which support high abundances, densities and increased shell size. The highest density was recorded in sand beds within coral reefs. Low density and small shell size in sand beaches might be related to high mortality in shallow water or to adaptations for survival in shallow waters. A clear correlation between sediment composition and species abundance was found in Pinna atropurpurea; abundance increased with the sand content of the sediment. For P. deltodes, abundance increased as the rock fraction of the sediment increased. These results suggest that adaptations in Pinnidae, such as shell size, shell morphology, and the exposure of the shell above the sediment-water interface, are responses for survival in different habitats.  相似文献   

13.
The potential threat of plastic pollution to seabirds within the Hauraki Gulf was assessed by determining its abundance and distribution at two different spatial scales and assessing the community of resident seabirds during July to September 2008. Samples of floating plastics within the gulf were taken during 66 trawls from the surface of the water in three regions within the inner gulf and Waitamata harbour. Within each of these regions, samples were taken in and outside of visually identified natural slick lines that are surface manifestations of small-scale convergence zones. During each trawl, the identity and abundance of seabirds were assessed. Plastic debris was recorded in all three regions sampled with the greatest abundance being recorded in the harbour. Plastics and debris were also significantly more concentrated within natural slick lines. Both user and industrial plastics were identified and consisted of colours and lengths likely to be mistaken as food items for small to medium seabirds. Surface or near-surface feeding seabirds in the gulf most likely mistakenly to consume plastics were fluttering shearwaters, Cape pigeons and Buller's shearwaters. However, these birds were most abundant in the area of the gulf where abundance of plastic pollution was lowest. The Hauraki Gulf is considered significantly less polluted by plastic debris than other severely polluted areas cited in literature.  相似文献   

14.
The south-western shoreline along the entrance channel inside the Port of Richards Bay has experienced continued erosion. Four groynes were constructed to stabilise the shoreline. Monitoring of shoreline evolution provided valuable data on the accretion adjacent to two of the groynes and on the sediment transport rates at these groynes. Tides, beach slopes, winds, wave climate, current regime, and sand grain sizes were documented. The one site is “moderately protected” from wave action while the other is “protected” according to the Wiegel [Wiegel, R. L. (1964). Oceanographical engineering. Prentice Hall, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, NJ.] classification. The shoreline accreted progressively at the two groynes at 0.065 m/day and 0.021 m/day respectively. The shorelines accreted right up to the most seaward extremity of the groynes. Equilibrium shorelines were reached within about 3.5 years to 4 years, which compare well with other sites around the world. The mean wave incidence angle is large and was found to be about 22°. The median sand grain sizes were 0.33 mm and 0.37 mm. The groynes acted as total traps, the beach surveys were extended to an adequate depth, and cross-shore sediment transport did not cause appreciable net sand losses into the entrance channel. The net longshore transport rate along the study area, which is north-westbound, is only slightly lower than the gross longshore transport. The actual net longshore transport rates are 18 000 m3/year and 4 600 m3/year respectively at the two groynes. A rocky area limits the availability of sand at one groyne. There is fair agreement between the predicted and measured longshore transport rates at the other groyne.  相似文献   

15.
The paper concerns beach growth by trapping longshore drift to form a protective beach seaward of the principal “weather” breakwater at the Port of Timaru, east coast, South Island. This “spending beach” concept was aproached by evaluating downdrift extension and considerable progradation of an existing accumulation at South Beach which is a product of harbour development since 1879 and which was held in quasi-stability by ongoing extractions of the net surplus littoral drift of coarse sands and gravels (averaging 60,000 m3 yr−1).A one-line model was adapted from sand beach conditions and scaled to the morphology and processes of the mixed sand and gravel beaches at Timaru. Calibration of the model was performed from related research into the rates and temporal pattern of longshore drift on South Beach. A hundred year history of shoreline progradation against the harbour structures was utilised to verify the model.The concept offered a high benefit: cost ratio for a small engineering intervention provided shoreline forms and behaviour could be specified sufficiently for planning, statutory consent, engineering, economic and environmental impact assessment purposes. A 150 m long spur groin near the harbour entrance would trap about 12 ha of sand and gravel in about 8 years. The new shore would be better aligned to the dominant swell and storm waves than the present shore, so reducing long term net drift rates.Construction of the scheme commenced in May 1987 and progress to date is detailed.  相似文献   

16.
Marine debris is the most conspicuous pollutant that makes beaches aesthetically unappealing to users. The perceptions and reactions of beach users to stranded litter were compared between second-home owners and users (SHOU) and non-recurrent tourists (T). A questionnaire was applied to obtain socio-economic characteristics; assessment of the overall beach quality and perception of beach litter pollution (perception); hypothetical scenarios of marine litter pollution and deterrence (reaction); and potential alternative destinations in the case of deterrence (economic effect). Questionnaires (n = 319) were applied at two Brazilian subtropical beaches, with different physiographical settings (Pontal do Sul, PS, estuarine beach; Ipanema, I, open-ocean beach). Beach users’ groups differed regarding daily expenses (T > SHOU), period of permanence per trip (SHOU > T) and trip frequency (SHOU > T). The open-ocean beach (I) was rated the worst regarding overall beach quality. Marine debris generation was mainly attributed to local “beach users”, in the open-ocean beach (I). “Marine” (or non-local) sources were four times more frequently cited in the estuarine beach (PS). Perception on actual litter pollution and litter deterrence scenarios, did not vary between beaches or groups. More than 85% of beachgoers would avoid a beach visit if a worst scenario (> 15items/m2) occurred and most users would choose a neighboring state beach destination. Stranded litter may potentially reduce local tourism income by 39.1%, representing losses of up to US$ 8.5 million per year. These figures are proxies to support the trade-off local authority's make between investments to prevent/remove beach litter and the potential reduction in income from a tourist destination change.  相似文献   

17.
The distribution and optical absorption characteristics of chromophoric dissolved organic matter (CDOM) were systematically investigated along three meridional transects in the North Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea conducted as part of the 2003 US CLIVAR/CO2 Repeat Hydrography survey. Hydrographic transects covered in aggregate a latitudinal range of 5° to 62° north along longitudes 20°W (line A16N, Leg 1), 52°W (A20), and 66°W (A22). Absorption spectra of filtered seawater samples were collected and analyzed for depths ranging from the surface to ∼6000 m, sampling all the ocean water masses in the western basin of the subtropical North Atlantic and several stations on the North and South American continental slopes. The lowest surface abundances of CDOM (< 0.1 m−1 absorption coefficient at 325 nm) were found in the central subtropical gyres while the highest surface abundances (∼0.7 m−1) were found along the continental shelves and within the subpolar gyre, confirming recent satellite-based assessments of surface CDOM distribution. Within the ocean interior, CDOM abundances were relatively high (0.1–0.2 m−1 absorption coefficient at 325 nm) except in the subtropical mode water, where a local minimum exists due to the subduction of low CDOM surface waters during mode water formation. In the subthermocline water masses of the western basin, changes in CDOM abundance are not correlated with increasing ventilation age as assessed using chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) concentrations and the atmospheric CFC history. But dissolved organic carbon (DOC) mass-specific absorption coefficients of CDOM increase with increasing ventilation age in the deep sea, indicating that CDOM is a refractory component of the DOC pool. The overall CDOM distribution in the North Atlantic reflects the rapid advection and mixing processes of the basin and demonstrates that remineralization in the ocean interior is not a significant sink for CDOM. This supports the potential of CDOM as a tracer of ocean circulation processes for subducted water masses.  相似文献   

18.
A fortnightly sampling of tar balls on six beaches along the Israeli coastline between 14 April 1975 and 25 June 1976 showed that the mean content of tar during that period was 3625 g m?1 of beach front. The northern and central parts of the coast were significantly more polluted than the southern part. Between July 1975 and February 1976 the mean tar quantity decreased continuously from 5635 to 1344 g m?1.A comparison of tar quantities on the Israeli beaches with those of other beaches in the world showed that the Israeli beaches are more polluted than those of the west Atlantic coast, are as polluted as other beaches on the eastern coast of the Mediterranean Sea, and are less polluted than the beaches of Alexandria, Egypt, and Paphos, Cyprus. It is suggested that the tar content on the beach is related to the degree of oil pollution in the sea. The closer a beach is to an oil shipping lane or an oil dumping site, the heavier it is polluted.During storms, beach tar balls are pushed by the waves to the back of the beach or, in the case of a cliffed coast, are carried along the shore by the longshore current. When the tar balls reach a gap in the cliff (such as an estuary), they are carried inland by the storm waves. There the tar may become buried or dry, shrink and break into small particles which are then dispersed by the wind.  相似文献   

19.
Dune erosion is shown to occur at the embayment of beach mega-cusps O(200 m alongshore) that are associated with rip currents. The beach is the narrowest at the embayment of the mega-cusps allowing the swash of large storm waves coincident with high tides to reach the toe of the dune, to undercut the dune and to cause dune erosion. Field measurements of dune, beach, and rip current morphology are acquired along an 18 km shoreline in southern Monterey Bay, California. This section of the bay consists of a sandy shoreline backed by extensive dunes, rising to heights exceeding 40 m. There is a large increase in wave height going from small wave heights in the shadow of a headland, to the center of the bay where convergence of waves owing to refraction over the Monterey Bay submarine canyon results in larger wave heights. The large alongshore gradient in wave height results in a concomitant alongshore gradient in morphodynamic scale. The strongly refracted waves and narrow bay aperture result in near normal wave incidence, resulting in well-developed, persistent rip currents along the entire shoreline.

The alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline are found significantly correlated with the alongshore variations in rip spacing at 95% confidence. The alongshore variations of the volume of dune erosion are found significantly correlated with alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline at 95% confidence. Therefore, it is concluded the mega-cusps are associated with rip currents and that the location of dune erosion is associated with the embayment of the mega-cusp.  相似文献   


20.
Beach debris abundance was estimated from surveys on 10 beaches of the Turkish Western Black Sea Coast. Debris was collected from 20 m long transects during four different seasons; sorted and categorized by type, usage and origin. Litter density varied from 0.085 to 5.058 items m−2. Debris was mainly composed of unidentifiable small size (2–7 cm) plastic pieces and beverage-related litter such as bottles and bottle caps. About half of the labeled litter was of foreign origin, including 25 different countries, 23% of which are in the Black Sea region.The south-western Black Sea Coast seems to receive foreign litter from two main sources: land-based debris from the neighboring countries and seaborne debris due to international shipping. Standardized methodology and indicators need to be designated all over the Black Sea basin in order to quantify and qualify coastal litter pollution, monitor compliance with MARPOL and develop regionally effective mitigation measures.  相似文献   

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