塔基海-气界面动量通量观测：向岸风和离岸风情形比较

本文使用塔基直接观测法研究海洋大气边界层中的海-气界面动量通量。首先,我们收集数据并和前人观测结果比对,其比对结果符合一致。其次,在低风速至中等风速条件下,我们发现海-气界面动量通量的交换系数（又称拖曳系数）对于向岸风和离岸风两种情形有所差异。为此,我们使用一个考虑表面波的参数化方案解释海-气界面动量通量对于表面波的依赖关系。这些结果一方面证实表面波对于海-气界面动量通量的影响,另一方面验证一个考虑表面波参数化方案的有效性。     

Discussion of “Wave setup and setdown generated by obliquely incident waves” by T.-W. Hsu et al., Coastal Engineering, 53, 865–877, 2006

In the recent paper by Tai-Wen Hsu, John R.-C. Hsu, Wen-Kai Weng, Swun-Kwang Wang, and Shan-Hwei Ou (Coastal Engineering, 53, 865–877, 2006), the authors derived theoretical formulations for calculating the wave setup and setdown induced by obliquely incident waves on a beach. The derivation of an expression for setdown contains errors which would lead to an imbalance in longshore momentum flux outside the surfzone. We correct their derivation and give results in terms of the radiation stress concept in a general case including an oblique wave incidence. We also point out that the correct form of wave setdown is important to describe the zero-net force in the momentum balance outside the surfzone.     

渤海海域冰水共存期的波能流密度推算

为给寒区海域的波浪能估算提供科学依据,提出一种合理推算冰水共存海域波浪条件及波能流密度的方法,该方法将海冰模型与水动力学模型耦合模拟得到的冰浓度以线性修正函数的方式纳入波浪模型的海面摩阻风速方程中,并基于MCT (model coupling toolkit)耦合器将海冰模型、水动力学模型与波浪模型进行实时耦合。基于该方法模拟了渤海冬季寒潮大风期间的海冰以及波能流密度的演化。模拟结果表明,在2012年2月5~8日寒潮大风期间,结冰区域占到渤海总面积的1/3,约有76%的渤海海域的平均波能流密度受海冰影响减小,其中辽东湾近岸的波能流密度平均受冰影响最多减小了100%,而渤海湾和莱州湾近岸受冰影响最多分别减小了60%和50%。即使是无冰覆盖的老铁山水道,其波能流密度的最大值也受冰影响减少了14%。耦合模拟可以更为准确地对渤海冬季的波能流密度分布进行评估,为波浪能发电厂选址提供依据。     

Diffraction of a long Kelvin wave at the apex angle formed by intersecting shores

This paper discusses the diffraction of a low-frequency Kelvin wave (having a frequency comparable to that of a baroclinic Rossby wave) at the apex angle. The problem is handled, with the Coriolis parameter being variable, by expanding into series over the minor parameter ε characteristic of the ratio between the deformation radius and the length of an incident wave travelling along a latitudinal shore. An analytical expression has been derived for a wave translating along meridional shore. It is demonstrated that when the latitudinal shore is located above the critical latitude, the energy flux through the horizontal cross-section transported by the wave coincides with the corresponding flux in the incident wave. If, on the other hand, it is situated below the critical latitude, then part of the energy is consumed by offshore Rossby waves. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

山东省周边海域波浪能资源评估

采用第三代海浪模式SWAN对2001-2010年期间山东省周边海域的波浪状况进行了数值模拟。波浪能数值模拟值与台站观测值的比对结果表明模拟值可靠、实用。分析发现山东省周边海域平均波能流密度以2 000W/m以下为主,低于中国南部海域及欧美沿岸波能流密度。选取12个典型代表点,从波能流密度大小、变化特征、稳定性等角度分析了不同代表点的波浪能情况,发现山东周边波能流密度受气候变化影响近10年来呈上升趋势。综合不同区域波浪能大小及需求情况,建议选取山东半岛东部海域、蓬莱外围岛屿近渤海中部海域和渤海中部海域作为波浪能开发利用的首选区域。其中成山头东部海域波能流密度在冬季高达5 000 W/m,在该季节大部分区域可归为一类资源丰富区。基于此,建议开发利用中小规模的波浪能供电设备或供电设施。     

Imbalance in the carbonate budget of surficial sediments in the North Atlantic Ocean: variations over the last millenium?

Fluxes contributing to the particulate carbonate system in deep-sea sediments were investigated at the BENGAL site in the Porcupine Abyssal Plain (Northeast Atlantic). Deposition fluxes were estimated using sediment traps at a nominal depth of 3000 m and amounted to 0.37±0.1 mmol C m⁻² d⁻¹. Dissolution of carbonate was determined using flux of total alkalinity from in situ benthic chambers, is 0.4±0.1 mmol C m⁻² d⁻¹. Burial of carbonate was calculated from data on the carbonate content of the sediment and sedimentation rates from a model age based on ¹⁴C dating on foraminifera (0.66±0.1 mmol C m⁻² d⁻¹). Burial plus dissolution was three times larger than particle deposition flux which indicates that steady-state is not achieved in these sediments. Mass balances for other components (BSi, ²¹⁰Pb), and calculations of the focusing factor using ²³⁰Th, show that lateral inputs play only a minor role in this imbalance. Decadal variations of annual particle fluxes are also within the uncertainty of our average. Long-term change in dissolution may contribute to the imbalance, but can not be the main reason because burial alone is greater than the input flux. The observed imbalance is thus the consequence of a large change of carbonate input flux which has occured in the recent past. A box model is used to check the response time of the solid carbonate system in these sediments and the time to reach a new steady-state is in the order of 3 kyr. Thus it is likely that the system has been perturbed recently and that large dissolution and burial rates reflect the previously larger particulate carbonate deposition rates. We estimate that particulate carbonate fluxes have certainly decreased by a factor of at least 3 and that this change has occurred during the last few centuries.     

风浪对海-气界面动量通量估计的影响

利用实验室和有代表性的外海观测数据综合分析表明,海面粗糙度对波龄的依赖性与是否将实验室和外海数据一起考虑有关,而风应力拖曳系数与此无关,且随波龄增大而减小.利用Toba-3/2指数律和风浪成长关系的分析表明,风应力拖曳系数为常数或随波龄的增大而增大,与上述结果定性上相矛盾,说明风浪对风应力拖曳系数影响问题需要进一步研究.     

浅滩地形上波浪破碎对低频波能放大的影响

低频长波对港湾共振、泥沙输运、波浪爬高与越浪等过程有重要影响。采用非静压模型SWASH模拟了不规则波在浅滩上的传播及破碎过程,重点探讨了滩顶短波破碎程度对低频波能演变的影响。模拟结果显示,当滩顶短波处于临界破碎状态时,低频波能流沿浅滩持续增长,浅滩对低频长波的放大效应（滩后与滩前低频波能流之比）显著;当滩顶短波轻微破碎、破波仅发生在外破波区时,低频波能流的沿滩增长率进一步变大;当滩顶短波剧烈破碎、破波延续到内破波区时,低频波能流沿滩先增长而后转为衰减,滩后放大率较临界破碎时明显减小。研究结果表明,浅滩顶部水深改变了短波破碎程度,进而影响低频长波的演化过程,浅滩上长波总体增长率随滩顶水深的减小呈现先增大后减小的规律,在短波轻微破碎时最大。     

一维全非线性Green-Naghdi水波方程数值模型

建立了求解一维全非线性Green-Naghdi水波方程的中心有限体积/有限差分混合数值格式。采用结构化网格对守恒形式的控制方程进行离散和积分,界面数值通量采用有限体积法计算,剩余项则采用中心有限差分格式求解。其中,采用中心迎风有限体积格式计算控制体界面数值通量,并结合界面变量的线性重构方法,使其在空间上具有四阶精度,通过引入静压重构技术和波浪破碎指标使模型具备处理海岸水-陆动边界及波浪破碎的能力。时间积分则采用具有总时间变差减小(Total Variation Diminishing,TVD)性质的三阶龙格-库塔法进行。应用该模型对孤立波在常水深和斜坡海岸上的传播过程及规则波跨越潜堤传播的实验进行了数值模型研究,数值计算同解析解及实验数据吻合良好。     

波浪以增大交换面积的方式影响海-气通量

为体现波浪起伏增大交换面积进而增强通量这一事实,本文在已有海-气通量模型基础上提出了一种新的波面增长因子计算公式。就线性波叠加方法产生的波面而言,在风速为10 m/s时充分成长的波浪至少可使热通量增加7.9%,这比用单个正弦波得到的最大增加量3.7%的2倍还多。当风速增大到20 m/s时由新公式给出的增加量则能达到30%。研究还表明,借用经验波谱进行海面模拟难以体现毛细波,真实海面的面积增加量不止模拟的那么少,波浪对海-气通量的影响还应更强。     

Modeling beach profile evolution at centennial to millennial scales

The proposed model allows the satisfactory reproduction of the changes in the profile geometry in each time step depending on the sediment budgets in a given morphodynamic system. The applied modification to the general Bruun rule governing the conservation of mass must account for the effect of the sediment transport, which is described in terms of the erosion and accretion rates (Er and and Ac, respectively). The scale of the erosion is a function of the total annual wave energy flux reaching the beach. The accretion is governed by the Er, on the one hand, and by the sediment budget in the morphodynamic system, on the other hand. The equilibrium profile obtained for the case of a balanced sediment budget (Er = Ac) shows good agreement with the observed profiles. A deficit or surplus in the sediment budget results in the shoreline??s retreat or advance accompanied by either a decrease or increase in the slope of the bottom profile. The model accounts for different types of shoreline responses to changes in the sea level (the Bruun rule, the development of a coastal barrier, and abrasion). Sediment budget imbalances can be a factor in the profile??s evolution due to changes in the sea level, while the combination of both factors will produce a variety of behaviors of the shoreline, as was shown by our calculations. The model was verified using historical data on the behavior of the Central Holland coast and the Abkhazian coast during the Late Holocene. It was shown that the model satisfactory reproduces the progradation of coastal barriers. An example of a relatively short-term forecast (over a 100-year period) is given.     

Wind wave measurements and modelling in a fetch-limited semi-enclosed lagoon

The south-west reef lagoon of New Caledonia is a semi-enclosed basin where, on first approximation, dominating sea state component corresponds to locally generated wind waves. This study aims to evaluate the ability of the wave model WAVEWATCH III to simulate wind wave distribution in this particular fetch-limited context, with a given parameterisation. In order to evaluate the consistency of the simulation results, wave parameters were measured in situ by a wave and tide recorder (WTR9 Aanderaa) and by an acoustic Doppler velocimeter (ADV Sontek). This study underlines specific constrains for the deployment of instruments to assess the characteristic parameters of low amplitude and high frequency wind-waves. Special care was taken in the comparison step as, on one hand the wave model did not simulate the propagation of low-frequency oceanic waves inside the lagoon, and on the other hand the measured spectra bear an intrinsic limitation for high frequencies. The approximation of a sea state dominated by wind waves is verified on the study site. The accuracy of the simulation results is discussed with regards to the wind forcing applied to the model.     

Global air-sea surface carbon-dioxide transfer velocity and flux estimated using ERS-2 data and a new parametric formula

Using data from the European remote sensing scatterometer（ERS-2） from July 1997 to August 1998,global distributions of the air-sea CO₂ transfer velocity and flux are retrieved.A new model of the air-sea CO₂ transfer velocity with surface wind speed and wave steepness is proposed.The wave steepness（5） is retrieved using a neural network（NN） model from ERS-2 scatterometer data,while the wind speed is directly derived by the ERS-2 scatterometer.The new model agrees well with the formulations based on the wind speed and the variation in the wind speed dependent relationships presented in many previous studies can be explained by this proposed relation with variation in wave steepness effect.Seasonally global maps of gas transfer velocity and llux are shown on the basis of the new model and the seasonal variations of the transfer velocity and llux during the 1 a period.The global mean gas transfer velocity is 30 cm/h after area-weighting and Schmidt number correction and its accuracy remains calculation with in situ data.The highest transfer velocity occurs around 60°N and 60°S,while the lowest on the equator.The total air to sea CO₂ llux（calculated by carbon） in that year is 1.77 Pg.The strongest source of CO₂ is in the equatorial east Pacific Ocean, while the strongest sink is in the 68°N.Full exploration of the uncertainty of this estimate awaits further data.An effectual method is provided to calculate the effect of waves on the determination of air-sea CO₂ transfer velocity and fluxes with ERS-2 scatterometer data.     

A Time-Domain Coupled Model for Nonlinear Wave Forces on A Fixed Box-Shaped Ship in A Harbor

A 2-D time-domain numerical coupled model is developed to obtain an efficient method for nonlinear wave forces on a fixed box-shaped ship in a harbor.The domain is divided into an inner domain and an outer domain.The inner domain is the area beneath the ship and the flow is described by the simplified Euler equations.The other area is the outer domain and the flow is defined by the higher-order Boussinesq equations in order to consider the nonlinearity of the wave motions.Along the interface boundaries between the inner domain and the outer domain,the volume flux is assumed to be continuous and the wave pressures are equal.Relevant physical experiment is conducted to validate the present model.It is shown that the numerical results agree with the experimental data.Compared with the coupled model with the flow in the inner domain governed by the Laplace equation,the present coupled model is more efficient and its solution procedure is more simple,which is particularly useful for the study on the effect of the nonlinear wave forces on a fixed box-shaped ship in a large harbor.     

Shoaling Surface Gravity Waves Cause a Force and a Torque on the Bottom

Freely propagating surface gravity waves are observed to slow down and to stop at a beach when the bottom has a relatively gentle upward slope toward the shore and the frequency range of the waves covers the most energetic wind waves (sea and swell). Essentially no wave reflection can be seen and the measured reflected energy is very small compared to that transmitted shoreward. One consequence of this is that the flux of the wave’s linear momentum decreases in the direction of wave propagation, which is equivalent to a time rate of change of the momentum. It takes a force to cause the time rate of change of the momentum. Therefore, the bottom exerts a force on the waves in order to decrease the momentum flux. By Newton’s third law (action equals reaction) the waves then impart an equal but opposite force to the bottom. In shallow (but finite) water depths the wave force per unit bottom area is calculated, for normal angle of incidence to the beach, to be directly proportional to the square of the wave amplitude and to the bottom slope and inversely proportional to the mean depth; it is independent of the wave frequency. Constants of proportionality are: 1/4, the fluid density and the acceleration of gravity. Swell attenuation near coasts and some characteristics of sand movement in the near-shore region are not inconsistent with the algebraic structure of the wave force formula. Since the force has a depth variation which is significantly faster than that of the dimensions of the particle orbits in the vertical direction, the bottom induces a torque on the fluid particles that decreases the angular momentum flux of the waves. By an extension of Newton’s third law, the waves also exert an equal but opposite torque on the bottom. And because the bottom force on the waves exists over a horizontal distance, it does work on the waves and decreases their energy flux. Thus, theoretically, the fluxes of energy, angular and linear momentum are not conserved for shoaling surface gravity waves. Mass flux, associated with the Stokes drift, is assumed to be conserved, and the wave frequency is constant for a steady medium.     

Flow under standing waves: Part 1. Shear stress distribution,energy flux and steady streaming

The conditions for energy flux, momentum flux and the resulting streaming velocity are analysed for standing waves formed in front of a fully reflecting wall. The exchange of energy between the outer wave motion and the near bed oscillatory boundary layer is considered, determining the horizontal energy flux inside and outside the boundary layer. The momentum balance, the mean shear stress and the resulting time averaged streaming velocities are determined. For a laminar bed boundary layer the analysis of the wave drift gives results similar to the original work of Longuet–Higgins from 1953. The work is extended to turbulent bed boundary layers by application of a numerical model. The similarities and differences between laminar and turbulent flow conditions are discussed, and quantitative results for the magnitude of the mean shear stress and drift velocity are presented. Full two-dimensional simulations of standing waves have also been made by application of a general purpose Navier–Stokes solver. The results agree well with those obtained by the boundary layer analysis. Wave reflection from a plane sloping wall is also investigated by using the same numerical model and by physical laboratory experiments. The phase shift of the reflected wave train is compared with theoretical and empirical models.     

海岸沙坝近底悬移质通量实验研究

为了研究海岸沙坝的产生和演化机理,对不规则波和波群作用下沙坝上方的近底悬移质通量进行了实验研究。分析了短波、长波和平均水流对悬移质通量的影响。结果表明:各种波况下平均水流和长波的作用始终使泥沙向离岸方向输移,而短波的作用使泥沙向岸方向运动;平均水流引起的泥沙输移始终占主要成分,长波的次之。不规则波情况下平均水流的影响较规则波的情况相对较弱,三种成分对泥沙输运的贡献属于同一量级。波群情况下长波的影响随着波浪群性的增强而加大,短波的不明显,而平均水流的影响则随着波浪群性的增强而减弱。     

Impact of parameterized lee wave drag on the energy budget of an eddying global ocean model

The impact of parameterized topographic internal lee wave drag on the input and output terms in the total mechanical energy budget of a hybrid coordinate high-resolution global ocean general circulation model forced by winds and air-sea buoyancy fluxes is examined here. Wave drag, which parameterizes the generation of internal lee waves arising from geostrophic flow impinging upon rough topography, is included in the prognostic model, ensuring that abyssal currents and stratification in the model are affected by the wave drag.An inline mechanical (kinetic plus gravitational potential) energy budget including four dissipative terms (parameterized topographic internal lee wave drag, quadratic bottom boundary layer drag, vertical eddy viscosity, and horizontal eddy viscosity) demonstrates that wave drag dissipates less energy in the model than a diagnostic (offline) estimate would suggest, due to reductions in both the abyssal currents and stratification. The equator experiences the largest reduction in energy dissipation associated with wave drag in inline versus offline estimates. Quadratic bottom drag is the energy sink most affected globally by the presence of wave drag in the model; other energy sinks are substantially affected locally, but not in their global integrals. It is suggested that wave drag cannot be mimicked by artificially increasing the quadratic bottom drag because the energy dissipation rates associated with bottom drag are not spatially correlated with those associated with wave drag where the latter are small. Additionally, in contrast to bottom drag, wave drag is a non-local energy sink.All four aforementioned dissipative terms contribute substantially to the total energy dissipation rate of about one terawatt. The partial time derivative of potential energy (non-zero since the isopycnal depths have a long adjustment time), the surface advective fluxes of potential energy, the rate of change of potential energy due to diffusive mass fluxes, and the conversion between internal energy and potential energy also play a non-negligible role in the total mechanical energy budget. Reasons for the <10% total mechanical energy budget imbalance are discussed.     

C.C. Mei, The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves, Wiley, New York (1983) xvii + 740 pp., £ stg. 66.75.

A theoretical model is developed for wave heights and set-up in a surf zone. In the time-averaged equations of energy and momentum the energy flux, radiation stress and energy dissipation are determined by simple approximations which include the effect of the surface roller in the breaker and the actual shape of the waves. To the first approximation the roller represents a volume of water moving with the wave speed. It significantly changes both energy flux and radiation stress of the surf zone waves. The equations of energy and momentum are solved simultaneously to give the wave height variation and the set-up. Comparison with measurements shows good agreement. Also the transitions immediately after breaking are analyzed and shown to be in accordance with the above-mentioned ideas and results.