Mapping Shoreline Variability of Two Barrier Island Segments Along the Florida Coast

Recent projections of global climate change necessitate improved methodologies that quantify shoreline variability. Updated analyses of shoreline movement provide important information that can aid and inform likely intervention policies. This paper uses the Analyzing Moving Boundaries Using R (AMBUR) technique to evaluate shoreline change trends over the time period 1856 to 2015. Special emphasis was placed on recent rates of change, during the 1994 to 2015 period of active storm conditions. Small segments, on the order of tens of kilometers, along two sandy barrier island regions on Florida’s Gulf and Atlantic coasts were chosen for this study. The overall average rate of change over the 159-year period along Little St. George Island was ??0.62?±?0.12 m/year, with approximately 65% of shoreline segments eroding and 35% advancing. During periods of storm clustering (1994–2015), retreat rates along portions of this Gulf coast barrier accelerated to ??5.49?±?1.4 m/year. Along the northern portion of Merritt Island on Florida’s Atlantic coast, the overall mean rate of change was 0.22?±?0.08 m/year, indicative of a shoreline in a state of relative dynamic equilibrium. In direct contrast with the Gulf coast shoreline segment, the majority of transects (65%) evaluated along the oceanfront of Merritt Island over the long term displayed a seaward advance. Results indicate that episodes of clustered storm activity with fairly quick return intervals generally produce dramatic morphological alteration of the coast and can delay natural beach recovery. Additionally, the data show that tidal inlet dynamics, shoreline orientation, along with engineering projects, act over a variety of spatial and temporal scales to influence shoreline evolution. Further, the trends of shoreline movement observed in this study indicate that nearshore bathymetry—the presence of shoals—wields some influence on the behavior of local segments of the shoreline.     

Analysis and Simulation of Propagule Dispersal and Salinity Intrusion from Storm Surge on the Movement of a Marsh–Mangrove Ecotone in South Florida

Coastal mangrove–freshwater marsh ecotones of the Everglades represent transitions between marine salt-tolerant halophytic and freshwater salt-intolerant glycophytic communities. It is hypothesized here that a self-reinforcing feedback, termed a “vegetation switch,” between vegetation and soil salinity, helps maintain the sharp mangrove–marsh ecotone. A general theoretical implication of the switch mechanism is that the ecotone will be stable to small disturbances but vulnerable to rapid regime shifts from large disturbances, such as storm surges, which could cause large spatial displacements of the ecotone. We develop a simulation model to describe the vegetation switch mechanism. The model couples vegetation dynamics and hydrologic processes. The key factors in the model are the amount of salt-water intrusion into the freshwater wetland and the passive transport of mangrove (e.g., Rhizophora mangle) viviparous seeds or propagules. Results from the model simulations indicate that a regime shift from freshwater marsh to mangroves is sensitive to the duration of soil salinization through storm surge overwash and to the density of mangrove propagules or seedlings transported into the marsh. We parameterized our model with empirical hydrologic data collected from the period 2000–2010 at one mangrove–marsh ecotone location in southwestern Florida to forecast possible long-term effects of Hurricane Wilma (24 October 2005). The model indicated that the effects of that storm surge were too weak to trigger a regime shift at the sites we studied, 50 km south of the Hurricane Wilma eyewall, but simulations with more severe artificial disturbances were capable of causing substantial regime shifts.     

Temporal and Spatial Dynamics of Estuarine Shoreline Change in the Albemarle-Pamlico Estuarine System,North Carolina,USA

Many shoreline studies rely on historical change rates determined from aerial imagery decades to over 50 years apart to predict shoreline position and determine setback distances for coastal structures. These studies may not illustrate the coastal impacts of short-duration but potentially high-impact storm events. In this study, shoreline change rates (SCRs) are quantified at five different sites ranging from marsh to sediment bank shorelines around the Albemarle-Pamlico estuarine system (APES) for a series of historical (decadal to 50-year) and short-term (bimonthly) time periods as well as for individual storm events. Long-term (historical) SCRs of approximately ?0.5 ± 0.07 m year^?1 are observed, consistent with previous work along estuarine shorelines in North Carolina. Short-term SCRs are highly variable, both spatially and temporally, and ranged from 15.8 ± 7.5 to ?19.3 ± 11.5 m year^?1 at one of the study sites. The influence of wave climate on the spatial and temporal variability of short-term erosion rates is investigated using meteorological observations and coupled hydrodynamic (Delft3D) and wave (SWAN) models. The models are applied to simulate hourly variability in the surface waves and water levels. The results indicate that in the fetch-limited APES, wind direction strongly influences the wave climate at the study sites. The wave height also has an influence on short-term SCRs as determined from the wave simulations for individual meteorological events, but no statistical correlation is found for wave height and SCRs over the long term. Despite the significantly higher rates of shoreline erosion over short time periods and from individual events like hurricanes, the cumulative impact over long time periods is low. Therefore, while the short-term response of these shorelines to episodic forcing should be taken into account in management plans, the long-term trends commonly used in ocean shoreline management can also be used to determine erosion setbacks on estuarine shorelines.     

Hurricane Overwash and Decadal-Scale Evolution of a Narrowing Barrier Island,Ocracoke Island,NC

Barrier islands are found around the world and are important environmentally and economically. With accelerated sea level rise and relentless storms, their evolution is complex but important to understand, especially from a coastal planning and managing perspective. In this study, shoreline change estimates from aerial photography (1949, 1974, 2006), sedimentological and stratigraphic investigation, and analysis of geomorphic character were used to evaluate the hurricane response and decadal evolution of Ocracoke Island, NC. Between 1949 and 2006, the majority (>?65% of transects) of the entire island eroded at an average rate of ??0.54 m/year. Cross-island width decreased by as much as 40% (180 m) over the period. Hurricane Isabel (2003) represented up to 23% of the long-term net change in some regions of the island. The rate of narrowing of Ocracoke Island appears to have increased in the last half century and is due to a combination of natural and anthropogenic factors. Isabel overwashed a total of 9% of the island based on aerial photographic analysis with an average deposit thickness of 0.24 m based on trench investigation. Assessment with the Storm Impact Scale showed a direct relationship between overwash and the pre-existing dune conditions, which had been affected by long-term erosion. Sedimentological signatures interpreted from cores show up to four distinct stacked overwash deposits, potentially dating back as far as 1944. This multi-pronged analysis shows the complexity of barrier island evolution and highlights the necessity to examine and model a system response in four dimensions (i.e., spatially and with time).     

Productivity and Resilience: Long-Term Trends and Storm-Driven Fluctuations in the Plant Community of the Accreting Wax Lake Delta

River deltas are dynamic geologic features where the plant community engages in critical feedbacks with geomorphology, and plant community development is impacted by both riverine and coastal drivers. A vegetation index (NDVI) calculated from a time series of 54 peak growing season Landsat-5 TM and Landsat-7 ETM+ images was used to assess the long-term trends and storm event-driven changes in the vegetation community associated with the Wax Lake Delta, an actively accreting subdelta of the Mississippi River. Multiple regression models were developed to explain variation in the vegetated area of the delta and mean delta NDVI from 1984 to 2011 as a function of date, hydrology, and seasonality. The models indicate that both vegetated area and mean NDVI increased over time from 1984 to 2011. Productivity measures following Hurricanes Lili (2002), Rita (2005), and Ike (2008) represented statistical outliers; significant decreases in NDVI following these storms suggest that hurricanes passing directly over or to the west of the delta result in short-term disturbance to the plant community, most likely related to saltwater intrusion associated with storm surge. However, in each case, both vegetated area and mean NDVI recovered to the long-term trend by the following growing season. These results demonstrate that the freshwater marshes within this mineral-rich, accreting delta are increasing in productivity as the delta matures and are extremely resilient to coastal storm disturbance.     

Long-and short-term variations in shore morphology of Van Island in gulf of Mannar using remote sensing images and DSAS analysis

Trends of shoreline changes need a scientific study as erosion affects the coastal ecosystem and environment. This study focuses on the trends of shoreline changes along the Van Island, Gulf of Mannar, during the period from 2000 to 2016 using the Digital Shoreline Analysis System model of a tool in Arc Map. Shorelines were extracted from the Landsat OLI and ETM+ satellite data from the years 2000, 2005, 2010 and 2015 and short-term changes obtained by TSS with the help of GPS. The rates of changes were calculated by the standard method of end point rate based on 157 transects lines and baseline. The average value of EPR observed was ?5.03 m/year during the study period. Statistics of EPR further calculated the average long-time intervals during the period of 15 years and also short-term changes. It is noted that the study area of Van Island’s degradation is very rapid. The analysis shows that the surveyed years from 2015 to 2016 record the highest erosion and retreat of shoreline changes in December 2014 to May2015 than in May2015 to December 2015. Based on the predicted EPR value of ?125 m/year of erosion in the next 25 years, it is concluded that the Van Island will vanish.     

A Model Study on the Summertime Distribution of River Waters in Long Island Sound

Long Island Sound (LIS), a large urban estuary in the northeastern USA, receives freshwater from many rivers along its northern shore. The size of these rivers varies widely in terms of basin area and discharge. The Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) was applied with conservative passive tracers to identify the distribution, mixing, freshwater residence times, and storm response for all of LIS’s river systems during the summer of 2013. A watershed model was applied to overcome the lack of adequate river discharge observations for coastal watersheds. The Connecticut River was the largest contributor to riverine freshwater throughout the estuary despite its entry point near the mouth. The Connecticut River strengthened bulk stratification in the eastern LIS the most but acted to weaken stratification near the mouths of other rivers and in far western LIS by freshening waters at depth. The Housatonic and Hudson Rivers had the strongest influence on stratification in central and western LIS, respectively. Smaller coastal rivers were the most influential in strengthening stratification near the southwestern Connecticut shoreline. The influence of small coastal rivers was amplified after a major storm due to shorter storm response times relative to the larger rivers. Overall, river water was close to a well-mixed state throughout LIS, but more stratified near river mouths. Freshwater residence time estimates, meanwhile, indicated monthly to multi-seasonal time scales (43 to 180 days) and grew longer with greater distance from the LIS mouth.     

Long-term shoreline retreat rates on Whidbey Island,Washington, USA

Long-term retreat rates of Puget Sound's unconsolidated sediment shorelines have been difficult to quantify, and little systematic research has been completed to constrain retreat in this area. We put forward a new application of cosmogenic ¹⁰Be exposure dating to assess long-term shoreline retreat on Whidbey Island, WA by dating lag boulders exposed on the shore platform as the shoreline erodes. Production of ¹⁰Be in shoreline boulders is modulated by both tidal submergence and topographic shielding from the retreating bluff. By modeling the combined effect of these variables on ¹⁰Be production, the timing of exposure can be determined and used to calculate long-term (10³–10⁴ yr) bluff retreat rates. In rare cases, retreat rates are underestimated due to inherited ¹⁰Be. Within the study area, average retreat rates ranged between 0 and 8 cm yr^? 1. Our results demonstrate the utility of cosmogenic nuclides for determining long-term shoreline retreat rates in areas with thick sediment cover, where large numbers of samples can be collected, and where the pre-depositional history of the boulders is uncomplicated.     

Fair weather and storm sand transport on the Long Island, New York, inner shelf

Both spring-summer and fall-winter sand transport have been observed on the Long Island, New York, inner shelf at water depths of 20-22 m using a radio-isotope sand tracer system. The extent of dispersal of the tagged, fine sand was measured at 3 week intervals in two 70 day experiments. In the late spring and early summer, movement was primarily diffusive in nature, extending 100 m around the line of tracer injection, while late fall-winter patterns had strong advective features, including an ellipsoidal outline extending approximately 1500 m westward of the injection points after the passage of several storms with strong northeasterly winds. Near-bottom current observations made with Savonius rotor sensors identify the event responsible for the bulk of the transport over the 135 day observation period as a storm flow of 2 days duration. Tracer and current observations together suggest that westward winter storm flow along the Long Island shelf is the major mechanism of sand transport at these depths on a yearly time scale. A least-squares fit of several of the observed winter patterns with a plume model yields average sediment mass flux lower bounds of 3.2 × 10^?3 gm/cm/sec and 1.7 × 10^?1 gm/cm/sec for ‘typical’ and extreme winter storm activity.     

Sand-spit erosion following interruption of longshore sediment transport: Shamrock Island, Texas

 Shamrock Island, located in Corpus Christi Bay, Texas, is a former sand spit that was detached from Mustang Island by navigation channels constructed in the early 1950s. The navigation channels effectively eliminated longshore sediment transport to the island, resulting in severe and ongoing erosion of the island's north shore. This study documents long-term shoreline change, based on analysis of aerial photographs from 1938, 1948, 1950, 1952, 1956, 1967, 1975, 1979, 1985, 1990, and 1995. Shamrock Island grew steadily to the south prior to 1956, while the north shore of the island was relatively stable. After 1956, the north shore eroded rapidly, while the south shore continued to grow, probably because sand eroded from the north was redistributed to the south. By 1995, up to 156 m of retreat had occurred on the north shore. The island was recently acquired by the Nature Conservancy of Texas for use as a nature preserve. Erosion now threatens to breach the island, which may result in degradation of an interior lagoon and loss of valuable wildlife habitats. Therefore, in addition to documenting long-term erosion following interruption of longshore sediment transport, this study also illustrates how human modification of the coastal zone can have important and unforseen ramifications affecting future shoreline uses for many decades. Received: 6 October 1997 · Accepted: 3 February 1998     

Slope hummock development, Fosheim Peninsula, Ellesmere Island, Nunavut, Canada

Slope hummocks, a type of nonsorted patterned ground, are composed of stratified, organic, silty sand, and develop through the interaction of niveo-eolian deposition, solifluction, slopewash, and vegetation growth. Fields of hummocks show consistent patterns: forms on convex slopes increase in height downslope until the channel is reached, whereas those on convexo-concave slopes increase on the upper convexity but are buried by niveo-eolian deposition downslope of the snowbank remnant. These trends can be reproduced using a simple numerical model based on measured slope and snow depth profiles, sediment concentrations in the snow and solifluction rates. The model indicates that hummocks transit slopes of 20-40 m in about 2-4 ka, a time-frame that is plausible given site emergence, measured rates of solifluction, and published dates for organic horizons within hummocks on northern Ellesmere Island. Sensitivity analyses show that long-term effect of climate warming on hummock heights may differ depending on whether it is accompanied by precipitation increase or decrease. The required combination of two-sided freezing to promote plug-like movement, incomplete vegetation cover and thin snow that enable eolian erosion during winter and spring, and vegetation growth in snow-bed sites to stabilize niveo-eolian deposits may explain why these forms are important regionally but apparently are not present throughout the Arctic.     

Living Shorelines Support Nearshore Benthic Communities in Upper and Lower Chesapeake Bay

Human population growth and sea-level rise are increasing the demand for protection of coastal property against shoreline erosion. Living shorelines are designed to provide shoreline protection and are constructed or reinforced using natural elements. While living shorelines are gaining popularity with homeowners, their ability to provide ecological services (e.g., habitat provision and trophic transfer) is not well understood, and information is needed to improve coastal and resource management decision-making. We examined benthic community responses to living shorelines in two case-study subestuaries of Chesapeake Bay using a before-after control-impact study design. At Windy Hill, a bulkhead was removed and replaced by three tombolos, sand fill, and native marsh vegetation. At Lynnhaven, 25 m of eroding marsh shoreline was stabilized with coir logs, sand fill, and native marsh vegetation. Communities of large (>?3 mm) infauna adjacent to living shorelines at both locations tended to increase in biomass by the end of the study period. Community compositions changed significantly following living shoreline construction at Windy Hill, reflecting a trend toward higher density and biomass of large bivalves at living shorelines compared to pre-construction. Increasing trends in density and biomass of clams and simultaneously decreasing density and decreasing trends in biomass of polychaetes suggest a transition toward stable infaunal communities at living shorelines over time, though longer-term studies are warranted.     

Long-term changes of <Emphasis Type="Italic">Tamarix</Emphasis>-vegetation in the oasis-desert ecotone and its driving factors: implication for dryland management

The Oasis-desert ecotone plays an important role in ensuring oasis ecological security. This study was to determine the main factors on the changes of desert vegetation in the oasis-desert ecotone, and to understand the mechanisms of the long-term changes. During past 50 years, the dominant plant species of Tamarix-vegetation in the Minqin oasis-desert ecotone changed from mesophytes to xerophytes and finally to super-xerophytes. The vegetative distribution area (belt width of Tamarix-vegetation between desert and oasis) markedly decreased from 1,000 m past to 30 m current. The coverage of Tamarix bushes reduced from 25 to 7%. The importance value (IV) of the bushes fell from 0.957 to 0.752, and Simpson index decreased from 0.702 in 1959–0.589 in 1992, and then increased to 0.712 in 2002. These changes in vegetation were closely related with the rapid decrease of groundwater table and the reduction of soil moisture due to unsustainable use of water resources for expanded agriculture development. These findings suggested that the change of Tamarix-vegetation in the oasis-desert ecotone was a process of vegetation degradation and concurrent desertification. The maintaining of stable groundwater and Tamarix-vegetation is a vital prerequisite for dryland management, especially, conserving ecological health of oasis-desert systems.     

Nature and stability of atoll island shorelines: Gilbert Island chain,Kiribati, equatorial Pacific

Islands rimming Pacific atolls typically form narrow, low‐lying lands that are commonly perceived to be particularly vulnerable to global changes such as sea‐level rise. As these, low islands form the only habitable land for many island nations, understanding the character of shorelines, and the rates and controls that operate to bring about changes, is an issue of central importance. The purpose of this study is to unravel the characteristics of coastal change on atoll islands of the Gilbert Island chain of the equatorial Pacific nation of Kiribati, especially as they relate to autogenic shoreline processes and El Niño/Southern Oscillation variability. Integration of field observations, differential global positioning system data, historical aerial photographs and ultra‐high resolution remote sensing images demonstrates the nature, spatial patterns and rates of change from 17 islands on Maiana and Aranuka atolls. The results illustrate that, between 2005 and 2009, ca 50% of the shorelines on these islands displayed a discernable shift in position; some shorelines were accretionary (at net rates up to ca 8 m year^?1) and others were erosional (up to ca 18 m year^?1). Long‐term net rates of change on Maiana between 1969 and 2009 were lower than short‐term net rates measured between 2005 and 2009. Both short‐term and long‐term observations illustrate some of the greatest change occur near terminations of the largest, north–south oriented islands, associated with longshore movement of coarse sand and gravel. Direct hits by tropical depressions and marked seasonality, factors interpreted as being essential in island growth and shoreline dynamics elsewhere, do not directly impact these equatorial atolls and can be eliminated as fundamental controls on shoreline dynamics. Similarly, observations over four years suggested that shoreline variability probably is not influenced directly by marked sea‐level change, although a recent increase in the rates of shoreline change could reflect instability related to the cumulative effect of a long‐term increase in the rate of sea‐level rise. Within this framework of global change, local anthropogenic effects, autogenic shoreline processes and El Niño/Southern Oscillation‐influenced wind and wave variability control many aspects of these dynamic shorelines. These results provide quantitative insights into the character and variability of rates of shoreline change, information essential for evaluating and mitigating the vulnerability of island nations such as Kiribati.     

A study of coastal transformation at Tuticorin as a result of emerged and submerged natural breakwaters of Van Island,Gulf of Mannar

Similar to artificial offshore structures, natural structures such as an island also protect the low-lying shoreline and shape the pocket beaches. In the Gulf of Mannar, many long islands have formed protruding from shorelines. Formation of these indirect morphological structures depends upon a number of factors, such as the width of the island, offshore distance of the island to the morphological structure, supply of sediments and other geological conditions. The hydrodynamic conditions between Tuticorin Harbour and Van Island have changed because of various factors over the years. Van Island coral reef formation had attracted man-induced mining causing irreparable damage to the fragile ecosystem. The emerged natural breakwater and the submerged coral reef, together with the artificial breakwaters of Tuticorin Harbour, have been contributory to quantifiable change in hydrodynamic conditions around Tuticorin. As a result, the transmission of wave power to the shoreline has increased and the salient growth at Salaipatorri Point, Tuticorin, has started to recede. The bathymetric chart published in 1978 is used for all dimensions of Van Island and receding salient growth at Salaipatorri Point.     

In Situ Effects of Shoreline Type and Watershed Land Use on Submerged Aquatic Vegetation Habitat Quality in the Chesapeake and Mid-Atlantic Coastal Bays

Submerged aquatic vegetation (SAV) is an ecologically and economically valuable component of coastal estuaries that acts as an early indicator of both degrading and improving water quality. This study aimed to determine if shoreline hardening, which is associated with increased population pressure and climate change, acts to degrade SAV habitat quality at the local scale. In situ comparisons of SAV beds adjacent to both natural and hardened shorelines in 24 subestuaries throughout the Chesapeake and Mid-Atlantic Coastal Bays indicated that shoreline hardening does impact adjacent SAV beds. Species diversity, evenness, and percent cover were significantly reduced in the presence of riprap revetment. A post hoc analysis also confirmed that SAV is locally affected by watershed land use associated with increased population pressure, though to a lesser degree than impacts observed from shoreline armoring. When observed over time, SAV recovery at the local level took approximately 3 to 4 years following storm impacts, and SAV adjacent to natural shorelines showed more resilience to storms than SAV adjacent to armored shorelines. The negative impacts of shoreline hardening and watershed development on SAV shown here will inform coastal zone management decisions as increasing coastal populations and sea level rise drive these practices.     

Episodic sedimentation on an early Silurian, storm-dominated carbonate ramp, Becscie and Merrimack formations, Anticosti Island, Canada

The 150–160 m thick lowermost Silurian (Rhuddanian) Becscie and Merrimack formations of Anticosti Island, Canada, represent continuous deposition on a shallow, open marine carbonate ramp. Several rock types are identified: (a) laminated and homogenous mudstone; (b) laminated and homogenous packstone; (c) argillaceous mudstone and packstone; (d) calcareous shale; (e) laminated calcisiltite; (f) medium- to fine-grained grainstone; and (g) bio/intraclastic rudstone. These rock types are arranged into five distinct lithofacies: (LF1) calcareous mudstone-shale; (LF2) laminated-homogenous mudstone; (LF3) calcareous grainstone-shale; (LF4) laminated mudstone-grainstone; and (LF5) laminated calcisiltite-grainstone. The sequence reflects deposition on a low-energy, muddy, carbonate to argillaceous ramp subject to short-lived, episodic high-energy storms. These events produced fining-upwards storm units 5–80 cm thick, or tempestites, consisting of: a sharp scoured base overlain by intra/bioclastic rudstone grading upwards into medium-grained grainstone, finely laminated calcisiltite and mudstone, or shale. These are interbedded with low-energy, fairweather mudstones and calcareous shales. Deposition progressed from a carbonate mud-dominated ramp in the Becscie Formation to an argillaceous mud-dominated ramp in the Merrimack Formation. Lateral tempestite proximality trends and lithofacies distribution indicate that the Anticosti Basin deepened to the south-east into the Iapetus Ocean and shallowed towards a SW—NE-orientated shoreline to the north-west. Vertical tempestite proximality trends and lithofacies changes identify third-order eustatic sea-level changes. After an initial deepening at the base of the formation, a shallowing-deepening event dominated the sequence. Several higher order fluctuations, defined by lithofacies and tempestite proximality trends, are superimposed on these changes. The fluctuations identified with the aid of tempestite proximality trends are of an order of magnitude higher than those identified by either lithofacies or palaeontological methods.     

Tropical cyclone-induced wave hazard assessment in Hainan Island,China

With the rapid expansion of the scale of deep sea net-cage use in the nearshore area of Hainan Island, tropical cyclone-induced wave hazard assessment is urgently needed. In this study, the wind-wave-current coupled ADCIRC?+?SWAN model, which considers the effects of tidal and storm surges, was used to simulate tropical cyclone events over the last 33 years. This model adopts an unstructured high-resolution grid with a nearshore resolution of up to 100 m. The compared simulated results and observations during typhoons JEBI (2013), HAIYAN (2013) and KALMAEGI (2014) were in agreement. This study statistically analyzed maximum significant wave heights on the basis of a large set of simulated storm wave level maps to derive the wave heights of different return periods. Then, the results of nearshore wave hazard classification were obtained by applying the affinity propagation (AP) clustering method to dozens of nearshore profiles. The results demonstrate that the risk at any point in the nearshore area of Hainan Island is dominated by the wave hazard type and water depth condition. The wave hazard assessment method developed for Hainan Island will be significant in assisting government decision-making in the rational planning of deep sea net-cage aquaculture.

     

Variations in storm response along a microtidal transgressive barrier-island arc

Storm response along the transgressive Chandeleur barrier-island arc southeast of the Mississippi delta plain is variable because of local differences in sediment supply, shoreline orientation and barrier morphology. A study of the morphological impact of Hurricane Frederic (1979) affirmed that tropical storms are the primary agents causing erosion and migration of this barrier arc.Frederic's greatest impact was in the duneless southern Chandeleurs, where sheet-flow overwash caused flattening of the barrier profile, destruction of a strip of marsh 50–100 m wide, and shoreline retreat of approximately 30 m. In contrast, overwash in the northern Chandeleurs was confined between dunes in channels established by previous storms. This channelized overwash breached the northern Chandeleur barriers in nineteen places. As Frederic passed, return flow through these channels transported overwashed sediment back to the nearshore zone. These ebb deposits were a source for longshore drift sediments, which quickly sealed storm channels, reestablishing a coherent northern Chandeleur barrier arc.These storm response patterns may help explain long-term changes in barrier morphology. During an 84-yr period (1885–1969) the southern Chandeleurs decreased 41 % in area, with an average retreat rate of 9.1 m yr^?1, compared to a 15% increase in area and an average shoreline retreat rate of 7.2 m yr^?1 for the northern Chandeleurs.     

88 centimetres of coastal erosion per year: The case of Kildare (Alberton), Prince Edward Island,Canada

Conclusion This short article has made it possible to determine the current conditions of erosion in one sector of the coast of Prince Edward Island, as well as to calculate, with as great a degree of accuracy as possible, the speed at which the ocean is destroying the shoreline of this sector. The intensity of shoreline erosion has varied over the years (Dubois and Longhurst 1984). The variation may perhaps be explained in part by the fact that water temperature varies in the same proportion as the temperature of the surrounding air (Trites 1984), and that over a period of several decades, the air temperature, and the climate in general, do vary (Trites 1984). Thus a study of the correlation between coastline erosion and climatological variations over several decades would certainly be a useful aid for predicting the future state of the coastline. There is also a need for a map of the various sectors of the PEI coast, showing their degree of susceptibility to various systems of erosion. Such a map would be extremely useful both for land management purposes (construction, roads, agriculture) and for security reasons (civil protection, ocean recreation.