Sources of land-derived runoff to a coral reef-fringed embayment identified using geochemical tracers in nearshore sediment traps

Geochemical tracers, including Ba, Co, Th, ⁷Be, ¹³⁷Cs and ²¹⁰Pb, and magnetic properties were used to characterize terrestrial runoff collected in nearshore time-series sediment traps in Hanalei Bay, Kauai, during flood and dry conditions in summer 2006, and to fingerprint possible runoff sources in the lower watershed. In combination, the tracers indicate that runoff during a flood in August could have come from cultivated taro fields bordering the lower reach of the river. Land-based runoff associated with summer floods may have a greater impact on coral reef communities in Hanalei Bay than in winter because sediment persists for several months. During dry periods, sediment carried by the Hanalei River appears to have been mobilized primarily by undercutting of low ⁷Be, low ¹³⁷Cs riverbanks composed of soil weathered from tholeiitic basalt with low Ba and Co concentrations. Following a moderate rainfall event in September, high ⁷Be sediment carried by the Hanalei River was probably mobilized by overland flow in the upper watershed. Ba-desorption in low-salinity coastal water limited its use to a qualitative runoff tracer in nearshore sediment. ²¹⁰Pb had limited usefulness as a terrestrial tracer in the nearshore due to a large dissolved oceanic source and scavenging onto resuspended bottom sediment. ²¹⁰Pb-scavenging does, however, illustrate the role resuspension could play in the accumulation of particle-reactive contaminants in nearshore sediment. Co and ¹³⁷Cs were not affected by desorption or geochemical scavenging and showed the greatest potential as quantitative sediment provenance indicators in material collected in nearshore sediment traps.     

The importance of extratropical and tropical cyclones on the short-term evolution of barrier islands along the northern Gulf of Mexico, USA

Data are presented indicating the complexity and highly variable response of beaches to cold front passages along the northern Gulf of Mexico, in addition to the impacts of tropical cyclones and winter storms. Within the past decade, an increase in the frequency of tropical storms and hurricanes impacting the northern Gulf has dramatically altered the long-term equilibrium of a large portion of this coast. A time series of net sediment flux for subaerial and nearshore environments has been established for a section of this coast in Florida, and to a lesser extent, Mississippi. The data incorporate the morphological signature of six tropical storms/hurricanes and more than 200 frontal passages.

Data indicate that (1) barrier islands can conserve mass during catastrophic hurricanes (e.g., Hurricane Opal, a strong category 4 hurricane near landfall); (2) less severe hurricanes and tropical storms can promote rapid dune aggradation and can contribute sediment to the entire barrier system; (3) cold fronts play a critical role in the poststorm adjustment of the barrier by deflating the subaerial portion of the overwash terrace and eroding its marginal lobe along the bayside beach through locally generated, high frequency, steep waves; and (4) barrier systems along the northern Gulf do not necessarily enter an immediate poststorm recovery phase, although nested in sediment-rich nearshore environments. While high wave energy conditions associated with cold fronts play an integral role in the evolution and maintenance of barriers along the northern Gulf, these events are more effective in reworking sediment after the occurrence of extreme events such as hurricanes. This relationship is even more apparent during the clustering of tropical cyclones.

It is anticipated that these findings will have important implications for the longer term evolution of barrier systems in midlatitude, microtidal settings where the clustering of storms is apparent, and winter storms are significant in intensity and frequency along the coast.     

初探我国Argo浮标下潜深度标定

为了使剖面能停留在预定深度,通过水静力学角度对相应的浮标压载标定方法进行研究.试验表明,浮标重量改变1 g,就会造成大约10 m停留深度的变化.论文详细描述了用压力罐进行浮标压载重量标定的方法,并通过一台浮标的压载实验给出浮标配重计算方法.     

Numerical simulation of solitary and randomwave propagation through vegetation based on VOFmethod

A vertical two-dimensional numerical model has been applied to solving the Reynolds Averaged Navier- Stokes （RANS} equations in the simulation of current and wave propagation through vegetated and non- vegetated waters. The k-e model is used for turbulence closure of RANS equations. The effect of vegeta- tion is simulated by adding the drag force of vegetation in the flow momentum equations and turbulence model. To solve the modified N-S equations, the finite difference method is used with the staggered grid system to solver equations. The Youngs＇ fractional volume of fluid （VOF） is applied tracking the free sur- face with second-order accuracy. The model has been tested by simulating dam break wave, pure current with vegetation, solitary wave runup on vegetated and non-vegetated channel, regular and random waves over a vegetated field. The model reasonably well reproduces these experimental observations, the model- ing approach presented herein should be useful in simulating nearshore processes in coastal domains with vegetation effects.     

Ocean wave transmission by submerged reef—A physical model study

Ocean waves can be destructive as steeper waves due to their high energy eroding the sandy beaches. During storm surge or high tide, the water level rises and if large waves occur, they will break closer to the beach, releasing enormous amount of energy resulting in strong currents. This causes heavy loss of beach material due to large-scale erosion. If these waves are made to break prematurely and away from the beach, they can be attenuated so as to reduce beach erosion. The reef, which is a homogeneous pile of armour units without a core, breaks the steeper ocean waves, dissipates a major portion of their energy and transmits attenuated waves. This paper experimentally investigates the armour stone stability of the submerged reef and the influence of its varying distance from shore and crest width on ocean wave transmission.     

Extended equilibrium beach profiles

The idea of an equilibrium beach profile has been a useful concept in both theoretical and practical coastal engineering studies. In essence, the subject has thus far evolved to a choice of shape functions, which are described by a small set of parameters. Additional efforts have attempted to relate these parameters to more fundamental quantities, such as average grain size of the bottom sediment, wave environment, geometric aspects of the beach, and the like. This approach has a long history and can rightly claim a certain level of success. However, the usual collections of shape functions are well-known to have difficulties very near the shoreline, let alone on the nearshore portion of the beach. This study extends the equilibrium profile up to and somewhat past the shoreline. Three shape functions are used in conjunction with a Taylor expansion for the nearshore and above water portions of the profile. A nonlinear fitting technique is applied to estimate the model's best parameter values. Moreover, reduced versions of the proposed models can be employed for prediction based only on parameters related to sediment characteristics or wave conditions and geometry of the visible beach. The approach is compared with data from the East Coast of Australia, the East Coast of North America and the South Shore of the Mediterranean Sea.     

海洋公园综合管控技术研究——以江苏连云港海州湾国家海洋公园为例

文章针对海州湾国家级海洋公园成立后的基础设施尚不完善、管理能力有待提高、环境资源与管理目标之间还有差距、海洋公园尚未达到规范化管理的现状,从海州湾海洋公园宣教技术、监控技术、生态恢复技术等方面,建设较为完备的海州湾海洋公园科研监测设施与科教宣传条件,提高海洋公园管理技术和手段,增强公众对海洋公园的支持和参与程度,改善海洋公园内及周边区域的生态环境质量,极大地恢复海洋公园内生物资源数量,从而将海洋公园建设成为国家级规范化建设与管理的优秀示范区,为江苏省高效生态经济区和连云港经济区建设提供服务和海洋生态保障。     

An application of Boussinesq modeling to Hurricane wave overtopping and inundation

Wave and combined wave-and-surge overtopping was significant across a large portion of the hurricane protection system of New Orleans during Hurricane Katrina. In particular, along the east-facing levees of the Mississippi River-Gulf Outlet (MRGO), the overtopping caused numerous levee breaches. This paper will focus on the MRGO levees, and will attempt to recreate the hydrodynamic conditions during Katrina to provide an estimate of the experienced overtopping rates. Due to the irregular beach profiles leading up to the levees and the general hydrodynamic complexity of the overtopping in this area, a Boussinesq wave model is employed. This model is shown to be accurate for the prediction of waves shoaling and breaking over irregular beach profiles, as well as for the overtopping of levees. With surge levels provided by ADCIRC and nearshore wave heights by STWAVE, the Boussinesq model is used to predict conditions at the MRGO levees for 10 h near the peak of Katrina. The peak simulated overtopping rates correlate well with expected levee damage thresholds and observations of damage in the levee system. Finally, the predicted overtopping rates are utilized to estimate a volumetric flooding rate as a function of time for the entire 20 km stretch of east-facing MRGO levees.     

Random wave runup and overtopping a steep sea wall: Shallow-water and Boussinesq modelling with generalised breaking and wall impact algorithms validated against laboratory and field measurements

A semi-implicit shallow-water and Boussinesq model has been developed to account for random wave breaking, impact and overtopping of steep sea walls including recurves. At a given time breaking is said to occur if the wave height to water depth ratio for each individual wave exceeds a critical value of 0.6 and the Boussinesq terms are simply switched off. The example is presented of waves breaking over an offshore reef and then ceasing to break as they propagate inshore into deeper water and finally break as they run up a slope. This is not possible with the conventional criterion of a single onset of breaking based on rate of change of surface elevation which was also found to be less effective generally. The runup distribution on the slope inshore of the reef was well predicted. The model is tested against field data for overtopping available for Anchorsholme, Blackpool and corresponding 1:15 scale wave flume tests. Reflection of breaking waves impacting a steep sea wall is represented as a partial reversal of momentum flux with an empirically defined coefficient. Offshore to nearshore significant wave height variation was reasonably predicted although nearshore model spectra showed distinct differences from the experiments. The breaking wave shape described by a shape parameter was also not well represented as might be expected for such a simple model. Overtopping agreement between model, field and flume was generally good although repeatability of two nominally identical flume experiments was only within 25%. Different distributions of random phase between spectral components can cause overall overtopping rates to differ by up to a factor of two. Predictions of mean discharge by EurOtop methods were within a factor of two of experimental measurements.     

基于遥感海浪信息的近岸水深反演模型

基于遥感影像的测深技术具有易获取、成本低和覆盖率大等优势,是目前的研究热点问题之一。为在波浪折射的基础上,进一步综合考虑绕射及非线性的影响,本文提出了一种基于海浪波数和波高信息的近岸水深反演模型。将模型与Berkhoff 椭圆形浅滩理想试验对比,平均误差为0.13%,显著小于现有基于频散关系反演水深的方法。进一步应用模型反演三亚湾近岸地形,通过与海图对比,平均误差为11.58%,且大部分区域的误差小于10%。部分区域误差较大,主要是由于遥感影像获取的波数空间分辨率和精度较低。以上结果表明该模型可以利用遥感海浪信息较准确推算近岸水深。本文对于近岸浅海区的水深反演工作具有一定的参考价值。     

Structure of the subsurface counter current beneath the Tsushima warm current simulated by an ocean general circulation model

The subsurface counter current beneath the Tsushima Warm Current is simulated using a three-dimensional circulation model. The model well reproduces the counter current beneath the Tsushima Warm Current on the shelf break. The counter current appears as nearshore parts of the subsurface clockwise circulations from spring to early winter. The clockwise circulations are separated by developed shelves such as the Oki Spur and the Noto Peninsula, thus the counter current is not a continuous flow along the Japanese coast in this model. The vertical structure of the counter current can be explained by a density structure with the thermal wind relationship. The permanent and seasonal pycnoclines form mutually opposite horizontal density gradients near the Japanese coast in summer. Such a density structure results in a speed maximum of the counter current away from the bottom. It is remarkable that the second baroclinic mode is dominant in nearshore parts of the subsurface clockwise circulations in summer, which are attributed to the density structure. Similar density structures are also found in some coastal regions of the world oceans where subsurface counter currents are expected.     

海南岛的滨海旅游

海南岛位处中国的最面端,为热带季风气候区,地理位置优越,旅游资源特别是滨海旅游资源丰富,阳光、海水、沙滩、绿色、空气等要素齐全,再加上珊瑚礁、红树林等独特的海洋生态系统,为海南进行生态旅游及从观光旅游向观光度假旅游提供了良好的条件。海南建省后旅游业发展迅速,旅游景点和旅游设施逐渐完善,旅游市场不断规范。今后的发展趋势将是生态旅游,特别是在珊瑚礁和红树林区域,将科学考察、探险与休闲结合,在进行旅游的     

Size distribution of detrital mineral grains suspended in surface waters of the Yellow Sea and East China sea

Anisotropic detrital mineral grains were segregated microscopically from the suspended matter in surface waters of the Yellow Sea and East China Sea. Microscopic grain-size measurements of the anisotropic minerals were carried out for more than 80 slide specimens which are distributed homogeneously in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea. The distribution maps of mean grain size and sorting coefficients indicate that the mean size becomes coarser as one goes offshore, and the sorting coefficients are larger in the southern portion and smaller in the northern portion of this region. The clay-sized minerals in the suspended sediments carried out by the deltaic rivers of the continent were deposited in the nearshore area while coarser silt-sized minerals were suspended in offshore waters. The larger sorting coefficients (standard deviations) in the southern portion may imply that the silt-sized grains of offshore waters contain coarser sand-sized grains. The sand-sized grains may be supplied from offshore Taiwan and the Bashi Channel and transported by the main flow of the Kuroshio current.     

Regional stratigraphic framework linking continental shelf and coastal sedimentary deposits of west-central Florida

A regional study of the Holocene sequence onlapping the west-central Florida Platform was undertaken to merge our understanding of the barrier-island system with that of the depositional history of the adjacent inner continental shelf. Key objectives were to better understand the sedimentary processes, sediment accumulation patterns, and the history of coastal evolution during the post-glacial sea-level rise. In the subsurface, deformed limestone bedrock is attributed to mid-Cenozoic karstic processes. This stratigraphic interval is truncated by an erosional surface, commonly exposed, that regionally forms the base of the Holocene section. The Holocene section is thin and discontinuous and, north or south of the Tampa Bay area, is dominated by low-relief sand-ridge morphologies. Depositional geometries tend to be more sheet-like nearshore, and mounded or ridge-like offshore. Sand ridges exhibit 0.5–4 m of relief, with ridge widths on the order of 1 km and ridge spacing of a few kilometers. The central portion of the study area is dominated nearshore by a contiguous sand sheet associated with the Tampa Bay ebb-tidal delta. Sedimentary facies in this system consist mostly of redistributed siliciclastics, local carbonate production, and residual sediments derived from erosion of older strata. Hardground exposures are common throughout the study area. Regional trends in Holocene sediment thickness patterns are strongly correlated to antecedent topographic control. Both the present barrier-island system and thicker sediment accumulations offshore correlate with steeper slope gradients of the basal Holocene transgressive surface. Proposed models for coastal evolution during the Holocene transgression suggest a spatial and temporal combination of back-stepping barrier-island systems combined with open-marine, low-energy coastal environments. The present distribution of sand resources reflects the reworking of these earlier deposits by the late Holocene inner-shelf hydraulic regime.     

粤东后江湾近岸带风-浪-流联合作用下的泥沙输运

在现场观测资料分析基础上,应用波-流联合输沙模型,对粤东后江岬间海湾近岸带净环流、泥沙输运作用加以模拟分析,结果表明,东北东向风是形成近岸西南向净环流的主要驱动力,波浪控制了海底泥沙再悬浮和底质推移输运的过程,从而形成海湾海底地形以东北部侵蚀为主、西南部以淤积为主的发展趋势.     

Nitrogen and phosphorus species in the coastal and shelf waters of Southeastern North Carolina, Mid-Atlantic U.S. coast

The diversity of small-scale wetlands, high salinity tidal creeks, salt marshes, estuaries, and a wide and shallow shelf with the Gulf Stream close to the break makes the coastal zone of south-eastern North Carolina (U.S.) a natural laboratory for the study of the cycling of nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P) in coastal and shelf waters. We assessed the summer concentrations, forms, and ratios for each N (total dissolved N, nitrate + nitrite, ammonium and dissolved organic N) and P (total dissolved P, o-phosphate and dissolved organic P) pool as these nutrients travel from tidal creeks, salt marshes and two large estuaries to Long and Onslow Bays. Additionally, we measured ancillary physical (temperature, salinity and turbidity) and chemical (dissolved oxygen, chlorophyll a and pH) water properties. Highest concentrations of all individual N and P compounds were found in the upper parts of each tributary and were attributed to loads from agricultural and urban sources to the coastal watersheds, continuing downstream to receiving estuaries. In all areas, dissolved organic N and P species were predominant constituents of the total dissolved N and P pools (64–97% and 56–93%, respectively). The lower parts of estuaries and surface shelf waters were characterized by oceanic surface values, indicating removal of N and P downstream in all tributaries. The different watershed and hydrological characteristics also determined the different speciation of N and P pools in each estuary. Despite a high level of anthropogenic pressure on the uppermost coastal waters, there is self-regulation in this coastal ecosystem with respect to human perturbations; i.e. significant amounts of the N and P load are retained within estuarine and nearshore waters without reaching the shelf.     

全球海洋模式中CFC-11吸收对次网格尺度混合参数化的敏感性

以描述中尺度涡旋对示踪物的输送作用为目的的湍流混合方案GM90经证明对海洋模式的模拟能力较以前的湍流混合方案有较大的提高.该方案涉及到两个主要参数:等密度面扩散系数(A_I)和等密度面厚度扩散系数(A_ith).该文的目的就是利用中国科学院大气物理研究所(IAP)全球海洋环流模式L30T63研究以上两个系数取值大小对主动示踪物(温盐)以及被动示踪物(CFC-11)海洋分布的影响.实验结果表明这两个系数的取值可明显改变大洋温盐垂直分布以及海洋对CFC-11的吸收,且两个系数在其中起到的作用有很大的差异.从几个剖面的分析结果可知,总的来说,AI的增加使得CFC-11主要储存区的模拟结果更接近观测资料,而A_ith的增大使得模拟结果变差.     

中国近海沿岸海温多时间尺度变率及影响其变化的天气气候因素

本文通过对中国近海13个海洋站1959年～2003年逐日日平均海表温度及其相关数据的处理分析,结合中国近海多年逐日天气实况,研究了中国近海水温的短时（1d）、过程、旬、月、年际变率以及海温的长期趋势变化,并在此基础上详细讨论了影响中国近海各时间尺度水温变化的天气气候因素.     

Transition processes between the three typical paths of the Kuroshio

Transitions between the three typical paths of the Kuroshio south of Japan (the nearshore and offshore non-large-meander paths and the large-meander path) are described using sea level data at Miyake-jima and HachijÔ-jima in the Izu Islands and temperature data at a depth of 200 m observed from 1964 to 1975 and in 1980.In transitions between the nearshore and offshore non-large-meander paths the variation of the Kuroshio path occurs first in the region off Enshû-nada between the Kii Peninsula and the Izu Ridge and subsequently over the ridge. In the nearshore to offshore transition the offshore displacement of the path occurs first off Enshû-nada and then develops southeastwardly in the direction of HachijÔ-jima. In the reverse transition shoreward displacement occurs first off Enshû-nada and then throughout the region west and east of the Izu Ridge. The position of the Kuroshio south of Cape Shiono-misaki (the southernmost tip of the Kii Peninsula) is almost fixed near the coast throughout these transition periods, and significant variations of the Kuroshio path only occur east of the cape. The nearshore to offshore and offshore to nearshore transitions can be estimated to take about 25 and 35 days, respectively, during which the variation of the Kuroshio path over the Izu Ridge occurs for the last 11 and 25 days.The transitions between the non-large-meander and large-meander paths show that the large-meander path is mostly formed from the nearshore non-large-meander path and always changes to the offshore non-large-meander path.     

琼州海峡的一个三维泥沙扩散模式

通过建立一个三维陆架海数值模式来预报近海潮流和泥沙浓度的对流扩散,并应用于琼州海峡跨海工程的前期数值预测。预测结果表明,海区潮流的涨落、岸线形状、海底地形及源强位置与泥沙在近海的输运扩散关系密切,模拟情形基本合理,表明该模式适合应用于河口、近岸等涉海海洋工程海域的流场及泥沙扩散的三维数值预测,为相关的水动力环境要素和水质影响评价提供一定的参考价值。