Observations of freak waves in random wave field in 2D experimental wave flume

Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are analyzed, and the freak wave occurrence probability and its relations with Benjamin-Feir index （BFI） are also investigated. The results show that the skewness and the kurtosis are significantly dependent on the wave steepness, and the kurtosis increases along the flume when BFI is large. The freak waves are observed in random wave groups. They occur more frequently than expected, especially for the wave groups with large BFI.     

Estimation of wind speed and wave height during cyclones

Wave and wind characteristics based on the cyclones, in the vicinity of the Nagapattinam coastline (east coast of India) were estimated. In all, 11 cyclones have crossed near the study region during 1960–1996. For the four severe cyclones, the isobaric charts were collected at three hourly intervals from the India Meteorological Department. The storm variables such as central pressure, radius of maximum wind, speed of forward motion and direction of storm movement were extracted and the method based on standard Hydromet pressure profile, were used for the hindcast of storm wind fields. For all the cyclones the maximum significant wave height within the storm and its associated spectral peak period was estimated using the Young’s model considering the moving wind field and the results are compared with the hurricane wave prediction techniques provided in the shore protection manual published by the US Army Corps of Engineers in 1984. The study shows that the estimated wind speed and the data reported by ships were comparable. Empirical expressions relating wind speed, wave height and wave period to storm parameters were derived. The design wave height for different return periods was obtained by fitting a two-parameter Weibull distribution to the estimated significant wave heights. The design wave height was 9.39 m for 1 in 100 year return period for a direct hit of cyclone.     

2023年秋季海洋天气评述

2023年秋季（9—11月）北半球极涡为单极型分布,中高纬度地区呈5波型,欧亚大陆西风环流较为平直,西风带槽脊较弱。我国近海共出现16次8级以上大风过程,其中热带气旋大风过程3次,热带气旋与冷空气共同影响的大风过程3次,冷空气和温带气旋共同影响的大风过程3次,冷空气大风过程7次。西北太平洋和南海共生成4个热带气旋,热带气旋活动较常年偏少,全球其他海域生成热带气旋22个。近海出现2.0 m以上大浪过程17次,大浪日数占秋季总日数约71%。近海海面温度较常年平均偏高。     

2021年春季海洋天气评述

2021年春季(3—5月)的大气环流特征为:北半球极涡为偶极型分布,极涡较常年平均值偏强,中高纬度西风带呈现4波型。3月,南下冷空气活动偏弱,月内海雾过程频发。4月,北部海域受高压影响,低层形势场稳定,冷空气活动减弱。5月,我国近海受温带气旋影响出现大风天气。春季我国近海出现了5次8级以上大风过程,其中冷空气大风过程2次,冷空气和温带气旋共同影响的大风过程1次,温带气旋影响的大风过程2次。春季共有8次海雾过程,3月3次,4月2次,5月3次。近海浪高在2 m以上的海浪过程有8次,大浪日数偏少。西北太平洋和南海共生成2个台风。我国近海的海面温度整体呈上升趋势,东部和南部海域升温明显,南部和北部海域海面温度梯度增加。     

2021年秋季海洋天气评述

2021年秋季(9—11月)北半球大气环流特征为：极涡整体呈单极型,中高纬环流呈5波型分布,欧亚地区西风带环流形势季节内调整大,副热带高压(以下简称“副高”)偏强,西伸明显。秋季我国近海大风过程主要由冷空气、温带气旋和热带气旋影响造成。在12次8级以上大风过程中,冷空气影响8次,温带气旋影响6次,台风影响4次。西北太平洋和南海共生成9个台风,其中5个台风进入我国近海,在东西带状分布的副高影响下,近海台风主要活跃于南部海域;全球其他海域共命名热带气旋18个。我国出现2 m以上大浪过程的日数为74 d,约占总日数的81%,大浪过程与大风过程联系密切。秋季我国近海海面温度整体偏高,随着冷空气的逐渐活跃,北部海区和沿岸海域海面降温迅速,沿岸海面温度梯度加大,我国近海海域中,海面温度梯度最大的区域出现在东海。     

Characteristics of abnormal waves in North Sea storm sea states

A data set of storm wave records from the North Sea is analysed. Using current definitions of abnormal waves, eight of the largest wind waves are defined as abnormal waves. Twenty-four of the largest waves in time series, with a height larger than 10 m and with big vertical asymmetry are chosen for further analysis. Their individual characteristics are investigated and related to the global sea state characteristics. A comparison between measured data, second-order theory predictions and offshore basin data is made. The results for the chosen waves do not coincide with predictions of second-order theory. Considering that wind wave is second- and third-order non-linear, a new relationship between skewness and kurtosis is proposed for the sea states in which extremely asymmetric large waves have occurred. Another relationship between kurtosis and abnormality index of maximum waves is proposed too.     

Anisotropy of wind and wave regimes in the Baltic proper

The directional distribution of moderate and strong winds in the Baltic Sea region is shown to be strongly anisotropic. The dominating wind direction is south-west and a secondary peak corresponds to north winds. North-west storms are relatively infrequent and north-east storms are extremely rare. Angular distribution of extreme wind speed also has a two-peaked shape with maxima corresponding to south-west and north winds, and a deep minimum for easterly winds. The primary properties of the anisotropy such as prevailing winds, frequency of their occurrence, directional distribution of mean and maximum wind speeds coincide on both sides of the Baltic proper. The specific wind regime penetrates neither into the mainland nor into the Gulf of Finland or the Gulf of Riga.Properties of the saturated wave field in the neighbourhood of proposed sites of the Saaremaa (Ösel) deep harbour are analysed on the basis of the wave model WAM forced by steady winds. The directional distribution of wave heights in typical and extreme storms is highly anisotropic. Remarkable wave height anomalies may occur in the neighbourhood of the harbour sites.     

Hydrodynamic and sedimentary responses to two contrasting winter storms on the inner shelf of the northern Gulf of Mexico

Results are presented from the deployment of three bottom-mounted instrumentation systems in water depths of 6–9 m on the sandy inner shelf of Louisiana, USA. The 61-day deployment included nine cold front passages that were associated with large increases in wind speed. Two of the most energetic cold front passages were characterized by distinct meteorological, hydrodynamic, bottom boundary layer, and sedimentary responses and may potentially be treated as end-member types on a continuum of regional cold front passages. Arctic surges (AC storms) have a very weak pre-frontal phase followed by a fairly powerful post-frontal phase, when northeasterly winds dominate. Migrating cyclones (MC storms) are dominated by a strong low-pressure cell and have fairly strong southerly winds prior to the frontal passage, followed by strong northwesterly winds.

On the basis of measurements taken during this study, AC storms are expected to have a lower average significant wave height than MC storms and are dominated by short-period southerly waves subsequent to the frontal passage. Currents are weak and northerly during the pre-frontal phase, but become very strong and southwesterly following the passage. Sediment transport rate during AS storms was not as high as during MC storms, and the mean and overall direction tended to be southwesterly to westerly, with low-frequency flows producing easterly transport, and wind-wave flows producing southeasterly transport.

MC storms had the most energetic waves of any storm type, with peaks in significant wave height occurring during both the pre- and post-frontal phases. The wave field during MC storms tended to be more complex than during AS storms, with an energetic, northerly swell band gradually giving way to a southerly sea band as the post-frontal phase progressed. Currents during MC storms were moderate and northerly during the pre-frontal phase, but became much stronger and southeasterly during the post-frontal phase. Shear velocity was high during both the pre- and post-frontal phases of the storm, although sediment transport was highest following the frontal passage. Mean and overall sediment transport was directed southeasterly during MC storms, with low-frequency and wind-wave flows producing northerly transport. In summary, the data sets presented here are unique and offer insight into the morphosedimentary dynamics of mid-latitude, micro-tidal coasts during extratropical storms.     

2023年春季海洋天气评述

2023年春季（3—5月）北半球大气环流特征为：极涡呈单极型,核心区呈轴对称分布,较常年平均明显偏强;中高纬呈4波型分布,北太平洋西风带比较平直,与2021年春季相似。季内我国近海冷空气活动较弱,海雾过程频繁：8级以上大风过程出现了5次,其中冷空气大风过程为3次,入海温带气旋大风过程为1次,台风大风过程为1次;比较明显的海雾过程出现了8次,其中3 月为3 次,4 月为2 次,5 月为 3次。我国近海浪高2.0 m以上的大浪过程有11次,其中4次大浪过程最大浪高超过3.0 m。海面温度呈逐渐上升趋势,东海至华南沿海一带海面温度梯度较高。全球共有7个热带气旋生成,其中2个在西北太平洋,强度达到或相当于我国超强台风级的有5个。     

汕尾市引发灾害性海浪的热带气旋特征研究

近年来,海浪灾害是威胁近海民众生命安全最为突出的海洋灾害,对我国造成的经济损失有整体上升的趋势。基于31 a(1986-2016年)汕尾市观测站的热带气旋影响期间白天的海浪数据,本文定义并提取了31次灾害性海浪(1/10大波波高≥4 m)事件。在灾害性海浪发生时,热带气旋主要位于观测站点的西侧(115.57°E以西)。31次灾害性海浪事件集中发生于6-9月;其中,虽然6月份影响研究海域的热带气旋数量相对较少,但引发灾害性海浪的概率约是7-9月份的两倍。有26个热带气旋生成于121°E以东的西太平洋海域,且移动路径相对较集中:途经吕宋海峡(16°-22°N)的热带气旋总数为25个,其中22个热带气旋途经16°-20°N之间,是最为重要的通道。途经此处的热带气旋在汕尾海域引发灾害性海浪的估算概率约为25%-50%。本研究可为汕尾市灾害性海浪的预警报和防灾减灾提供重要的参考。     

2019年秋季海洋天气评述

2019年秋季（9—11月）大气环流特征为：北半球极涡呈绕极型分布,中高纬度环流呈4波型。随月份增加,欧亚大陆中高纬度环流的经向度不断加大,冷空气势力增强,但仍较历史平均偏弱。西太平洋副热带高压较历史平均偏强,热带气旋活动频繁。我国近海出现了17 次8级以上大风过程,其中冷空气大风过程有9次,热带气旋大风过程4次,冷空气与热带气旋共同影响的大风天气过程3次,冷空气和温带气旋共同影响的大风过程1次。西北太平洋和南海共生成16个热带气旋,全球其他海域生成热带气旋 27个。我国近海浪高在2 m以上的海浪过程有9次。秋季,我国近海海域海面温度逐月下降,北部海域的降温幅度明显大于南部海域。     

Estimates of the sensitivity of cyclonic activity in the troposphere of extratropical latitudes to changes in the temperature regime

Quantitative estimates of the sensitivity of the number and size of extratropical cyclones in the Northern Hemisphere to changes in the surface temperature are obtained with the use of NCEP/NCAR reanalysis data over a 60-year period and are compared with estimates on the basis of a relatively simple model of the cyclonic and anticyclonic activities in the atmosphere of extratropical latitudes associated with characteristics of atmospheric temperature stratification (MMPKh model). The model estimates are also obtained for a dry and moist atmosphere. With the use of the reanalysis data, extratropical latitudes are, on the whole, characterized by a general decrease in the number of cyclones and the density of their packing in extratropical latitudes as the surface temperature increases. However, in the MMPKh model for moist atmosphere, estimates of the parameter of sensitivity of the number of cyclones at midlatitudes and at extratropical latitudes in the Northern Hemisphere as a whole are close to those based on the reanalysis data. The influences of the meridional gradient of the surface temperature and the vertical temperature gradient in the troposphere on changes in the number and size of extratropical cyclones are estimated from the reanalysis data and model calculations. It is noted that the most significant changes in annual mean variations in the number and size of extratropical cyclones are associated with the vertical temperature gradient in the troposphere. In this case, an increase in the vertical temperature gradient in the troposphere decreases the size of cyclones. The relative influences of the vertical and meridional temperature gradients are different for different latitudinal zones.     

2020年春季海洋天气评述

2020年春季（3—5月）的大气环流特征为：北半球极涡为单极型分布,极涡较常年平均值偏强,中高纬度西风带呈现为3波型。3月,影响我国的冷空气总体多而不强,对北方海域影响较大。4月,我国近海海域上空为经向型环流,有利于冷空气南下。5月,影响我国近海的冷空气较弱,以温带气旋影响为主。我国近海出现了13次8级以上大风过程,其中冷空气大风过程4次,冷空气和温带气旋共同影响的大风过程5次,温带气旋影响的大风过程4次。春季共有7次海雾过程,3月3次,4月1次,5月3次。近海浪高在2 m以上的海浪过程有10次,大浪日数偏少。西北太平洋和南海共生成1个台风。我国近海的海面温度整体呈上升趋势,且北方海域升温幅度大于南方海域。     

2020年秋季海洋天气评述

2020年秋季(9-11月)大气环流特征表现为,北半球极涡呈单极型分布,中高纬环流呈4波型.9-11月,欧亚大陆中高纬环流经向度不断加大,冷空气势力增强.西太平洋副热带高压较历史平均偏强,热带气旋活动频繁.我国近海出现了19次8级以上大风过程,其中冷空气大风过程6次,台风大风过程4次,入海气旋大风过程1次,冷空气与热带...     

Modeling of tropical cyclone winds and waves for emergency management

This paper compares three commonly used parametric models of tropical cyclone winds and evaluates their application in the wave model WAM. The parametric models provide surface wind fields based on best tracks of tropical cyclones and WAM simulates wave growth based on the wind energy input. The model package is applied to hindcast the wind and wave conditions of Hurricane Iniki, which directly hit the Hawaiian Island of Kauai in 1992. The parametric wind fields are evaluated against buoy and aircraft measurements made during the storm. A sensitivity analysis determines the spatial and spectral resolution needed to model the wave field of Hurricane Iniki. Comparisons of the modeled waves with buoy measurements indicate good agreement within the core of the storm and demonstrate the capability of the model package as a forecasting tool for emergency management.     

斜向不规则波入、反射波分离的实验研究

斜向入射的不规则波在海岸结构物前发生反射形成入、反射波共存的波浪场,对这种物理场的入、反射波的分离是海岸工程研究的一个重要课题.改进了一种可用于斜向入射的不规则波分离的两点法,使得测波阵列的两波高仪可布置在结构物前任何方向上.将此方法应用于三维波浪水池的物理模型试验研究,试验了不同的两波高仪的组合、不同的基床高度、不同的入射方向和不同的波浪要素等各种条件对分离结果的影响,结果表明,各种情况在满足非奇异条件下可得到较好的分离结果.该方法计算简便,可以给出较准确的反射系数和入、反射波的频谱.     

赤道东太平洋海温对东亚～西北太平洋温带气旋的影响

本文分析了东亚～西北太平洋较强温带气旋的气修特征及其与赤道东太平洋海温的关系。得出,厄尔尼诺年或厄尔尼诺持续年,较强温带气旋偏多的对应关系占找优势。但当副热带高压偏强时,则较强温带气旋偏少。     

Extreme waves for Kuwaiti territorial waters

The extreme significant wave heights and the corresponding wave periods were predicted for return periods of 12, 25, 50, 100 and 200 yr for 19 different locations in Kuwaiti territorial waters. Though the total coast length of Kuwait is only about 500 km including all islands and the total area of the Kuwaiti territorial water is about 7611 km², the extreme significant wave height vary from 1.86 to 4.02 m for 100 yr return period, among these 19 locations. In general Weibull distribution is found to fit the data well compared to the Gumbel distribution. The input wave data for the present work is obtained by hind casting waves using a WAM model. Wave data is hindcasted for a total period of 12 yr, starting from 1 January 1993 to 31 December 2004. From the joint probability of wave height and wave period, a simple polynomial relationship is obtained between the significant wave height and mean period for all the 19 locations. It is found that the wave period for wave heights of 100 yr return period cannot exceed 6.5 s. A large number of coastal projects are in progress and many new projects are planned for the near future in the Kuwaiti territorial waters. The results of the present study will be highly useful for optimal design of these projects.     

A comparative analysis of the method of extratropical cyclone identification

Three methods for identification cyclones in extratropical latitudes of the Northern Hemisphere (NH) (20°–80° L) are compared based on reanalysis data (1948–2007) for the fields of the sea level pressure (SLP). Different characteristics of extratropical cyclones, namely, their number, intensity, size, and lifetime, are analyzed. The effect of orographic effects for the identification of cyclones and their trajectories is evaluated. The characteristics of extratropical cyclones are compared based on different reanalysis data (National Center for Environmental Prediction (NCEP)/National Center for Atmospheric Research (NCAR), ERA-40, and ERA-INTERIM) with different spatial resolutions.     

随机波浪中畸形波在三维岛礁地形上的试验研究

在试验水池中,开展了波浪在岛礁地形上演化问题的研究。首先在实验水池中建立了西太平洋某岛礁地形的模型,然后采用改进的JONSWAP谱,由造波机产生不同周期、波高的随机波浪。试验中观察到了不同类型畸形波生成的过程及不同波面形态的畸形波。对偏度、峰度及水深与畸形波要素H_m/H_s（H_m表示波列中的最大波高, H_s为有效波高）的关系进行了详细的分析,同时,对畸形波波高H_fr与偏度的关也进行了分析。通过对试验结果分析,发现峰度与畸形波要素i>H_m/H_s呈正相关, H_fr增大时相应的偏度也会呈现增大的趋势。此外,水深的变化剧烈时（如斜坡、海山位置）有助于畸形波的发生。