Modeling of storm-induced coastal flooding for emergency management

This paper describes a model package that simulates coastal flooding resulting from storm surge and waves generated by tropical cyclones. The package consists of four component models implemented at three levels of nested geographic regions, namely, ocean, coastal, and nearshore. The operation is automated through a preprocessor that prepares the computational grids and input atmospheric conditions and manages the data transfer between components. The third generation spectral wave model WAM and a nonlinear long-wave model calculate respectively the wave conditions and storm surge over the ocean region. The simulation results define the water levels and boundary conditions for the model SWAN to transform the storm waves in coastal regions. The storm surge and local tides define the water level in each nearshore region, where a Boussinesq model uses the wave spectra output from SWAN to simulate the surf-zone processes and runup along the coastline. The package is applied to hindcast the coastal flooding caused by Hurricanes Iwa and Iniki, which hit the Hawaiian Island of Kauai in 1982 and 1992, respectively. The model results indicate good agreement with the storm-water levels and overwash debris lines recorded during and after the events, demonstrating the capability of the model package as a forecast tool for emergency management.     

Modeling hurricane waves and storm surge using integrally-coupled,scalable computations

The unstructured-mesh SWAN spectral wave model and the ADCIRC shallow-water circulation model have been integrated into a tightly-coupled SWAN + ADCIRC model. The model components are applied to an identical, unstructured mesh; share parallel computing infrastructure; and run sequentially in time. Wind speeds, water levels, currents and radiation stress gradients are vertex-based, and therefore can be passed through memory or cache to each model component. Parallel simulations based on domain decomposition utilize identical sub-meshes, and the communication is highly localized. Inter-model communication is intra-core, while intra-model communication is inter-core but is local and efficient because it is solely on adjacent sub-mesh edges. The resulting integrated SWAN + ADCIRC system is highly scalable and allows for localized increases in resolution without the complexity or cost of nested meshes or global interpolation between heterogeneous meshes. Hurricane waves and storm surge are validated for Hurricanes Katrina and Rita, demonstrating the importance of inclusion of the wave-circulation interactions, and efficient performance is demonstrated to 3062 computational cores.     

北部湾海区风暴潮数值模型和数值模拟

北部湾是一个半封闭的超浅海。本文在数值试验的基础上，提出了一个研究该海域台风风暴潮的数值模型。数值模式为二维深度平均流模型，采用嵌套细网格技术，细网格分辨率为沿经纬方向０．１°，细网格边界值由粗网格提供。台风风场计算采用Ｊｅｌｅｓｎｉａｎｓｋｉ模型风场．模式方程组的数值解由交替方向隐式（ＡＤＩ）方法积分得到。本文对该海域最常见的两种台风移行所引起的风暴潮进行了数值模拟。与几个潮汐观测站的增水记录比较，计算结果基本上反映了台风引起的水位变化，对研究和模拟该海域台风风暴潮是适用的，可用于该海域风暴潮数值预报试验。     

Correlation of extreme waves and water levels using a third-generation wave model and a 3D flow model

A procedure to correlate extreme wave heights and extreme water levels in coastal waters using numerical models together with joint probability analysis has been proposed. A third-generation wave model for wave simulation and a three-dimensional flow model for water level simulation are coupled through the surface atmospheric boundary layer. The model has been calibrated and validated against wind, wave and water level data collected in the coastal waters of Hong Kong. The annual maximum wave height and the concomitant water level have been obtained by simulating the annual extreme typhoon event for 50 consecutive years. The results from bivariate extreme value analysis of the simulated data show that the commonly used empirical method may lead to underestimation of the design water level.     

Implementation and application of a nested numerical storm surge forecast model in the East China Sea

A nested numerical storm surge forecast model for the East China Sea is developed. Aone-way relaxing nest method is used to exchange the information between coarse grid and fine grid. In the inner boundary of the fine grid model a transition area is set up to relax the forecast variables. This ensures that the forecast variables of the coarse model may transit to those of fine grid gradually, which enhances the model stability. By using this model, a number of hindcasts and forecast are performed for six severe storm surges caused by tropical cyclones in the East China Sea. The results show good agreement with the observations.     

青岛沿海风暴潮分析

利用“青岛海军验潮站”(青岛大港1号码头)1949~2003年潮汐资料,采用统计风暴高潮位≥510cm出现频数的方法,对青岛沿海风暴潮进行统计分析。结果表明:诱发青岛沿海显著风暴高潮位的天气系统都是台风,集中出现在8月下旬~9月上旬,阴历初三至初五、十五至十八两个天文大潮时段。     

Two-dimensional time dependent hurricane overwash and erosion modeling at Santa Rosa Island

A 2DH numerical, model which is capable of computing nearshore circulation and morphodynamics, including dune erosion, breaching and overwash, is used to simulate overwash caused by Hurricane Ivan (2004) on a barrier island. The model is forced using parametric wave and surge time series based on field data and large-scale numerical model results. The model predicted beach face and dune erosion reasonably well as well as the development of washover fans. Furthermore, the model demonstrated considerable quantitative skill (upwards of 66% of variance explained, maximum bias − 0.21 m) in hindcasting the post-storm shape and elevation of the subaerial barrier island when a sheet flow sediment transport limiter was applied. The prediction skill ranged between 0.66 and 0.77 in a series of sensitivity tests in which several hydraulic forcing parameters were varied. The sensitivity studies showed that the variations in the incident wave height and wave period affected the entire simulated island morphology while variations in the surge level gradient between the ocean and back barrier bay affected the amount of deposition on the back barrier and in the back barrier bay. The model sensitivity to the sheet flow sediment transport limiter, which served as a proxy for unknown factors controlling the resistance to erosion, was significantly greater than the sensitivity to the hydraulic forcing parameters. If no limiter was applied the simulated morphological response of the barrier island was an order of magnitude greater than the measured morphological response.     

Neural network prediction of a storm surge

The occurrence of storm surge does not only destroy the resident's lives, but also cause the severe flooding in coastal areas. Therefore, accurate prediction of storm surge is an important task during the coming typhoon. Conventional numerical methods and experienced methods for storm surge prediction have been developed in the past, but it is still a complex ocean engineering problem which many factors, including the central pressure of typhoon, the speed of the typhoon, the heavy rainfall, coastal topography and local features influence the variation of storm surge. In fact, this problem is still a complex nonlinear relationship that can not solved efficiently by these two methods. Therefore, this paper presents an application of the neural network for forecasting the storm surge. The original data of Jiangjyun station in Taiwan will be used to test the performance of the present model. The results indicate that the neural network can be efficiently forecasted storm surge using the four input factors, including the wind velocity, wind direction, pressure and harmonic analysis tidal level.     

44 years hindcast of sea level in the Atlantic Coast of Europe

The sea level of Northeast Atlantic Ocean is calculated for the period between 1958 and 2001 using a state-of-the-art barotropic model with a grid size of 10′ × 15′ (long × lat). The model includes astronomic effects, considering seven components of the tide, and the meteorological effects of wind and atmospheric pressure, allowing obtaining the astronomic tide, the atmospheric residuals and the non-linear addition of both components of sea level.     

平均海平面上升对东中国海台风风暴潮影响的数值模拟

本文采用ECOMSED模式模拟了影响东中国海的3次台风过程,经与实测资料对比验证了模型的可靠性。在此基础上设计了敏感性试验以考察海平面上升对风暴潮造成的影响。结果表明,海平面上升对风暴潮的影响在空间分布上不是一致的,且因具体台风过程而异。整体而言,海平面上升对风暴潮造成的影响有限。海平面上升0．5m,大部分站位风暴增水极值基本不变,即使海平面上升5m大部分站位的风暴增水极值相对改变量都小于10％。     

Deterministic and ensemble storm surge prediction for Atlantic Canada with lead times of hours to ten days

Regional deterministic and ensemble surge prediction systems (RDSPS and RESPS respectively) are used to forecast sea levels off the east of Canada and northeast US. The surge models for the RDSPS and RESPS have grid spacings of 1/30° and 1/12° respectively. The models are driven by surface air pressure and 10 m winds generated by operational global deterministic and ensemble prediction systems that are run operationally by the Canadian Meteorological Centre. Surge forecasts are evaluated for the period 1 March, 2013 to 31 March 2014. Based on traditional statistics (e.g., standard deviation of the difference between observations and predictions) both systems are shown to have skill in forecasting surges six days into the future. It is shown however that skill exists beyond six days if allowance is made for errors in the timing of large surges. The usefulness of the RESPS is demonstrated for two positive surges (important for coastal flooding and erosion) and a negative surge (important for safe navigation in shallow water). It is shown that the RESPS can identify events not forecast by the RDSPS, and can also add useful additional information on the timing of the surge, an important consideration in tidally dominated waters. Several new types of display are used to illustrate the sort of information that can be generated by the RESPS to support the issuers of warnings of unusually high and low total water levels.     

Efficient joint-probability methods for hurricane surge frequency analysis

The Joint-Probability Method (JPM) was adopted by federal agencies for critical post-Katrina determinations of hurricane surge frequencies. In standard JPM implementations, it is necessary to consider a very large number of combinations of storm parameters, and each such combination (or synthetic storm) requires the simulation of wind, waves, and surge. The tools used to model the wave and surge phenomena have improved greatly in recent years, but this improvement and the use of very large high-resolution grids have made the computations both time-consuming and expensive. In order to ease the computational burden, two independent approaches have been developed to reduce the number of storm surge simulations that are required. Both of these so-called JPM-OS (JPM-Optimal Sampling) methods seek to accurately cover the entire storm parameter space through optimum selection of a small number of parameter values so as to minimize the number of required storm simulations. Tests done for the Mississippi coast showed that the accuracy of the two methods is comparable to that of a full JPM analysis, with a reduction of an order of magnitude or more in the computational effort.     

厦门港潮汐、风暴潮耦合模型

建立一个适合台湾海峡及小港湾,特别是能够反映小港湾的漫滩及潮汐、风暴潮耦合效应的数值模型,对小港湾风暴潮进行数值预报,有重要的社会和经济意义.文中以厦门港作为小港湾研究区域,在漫滩、风暴潮的耦合、开边界条件等方面对小港湾风暴潮数值计算作了一定的尝试,提出了一种能够模拟小港湾台风增水,潮位和流场变化情况的途径.     

广东省风暴潮海洋灾害特征及风险防控对策研究

文章通过广东省2005—2018年风暴潮海洋灾害损失资料,总结分析了广东省沿海城市台风风暴潮登陆情况、风暴潮灾害损失概况和风暴潮灾害损失特征,在此基础上,给出了广东省风暴潮海洋灾害风险防控对策建议。     

Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands

A new nearshore numerical model approach to assess the natural coastal response during time-varying storm and hurricane conditions, including dune erosion, overwash and breaching, is validated with a series of analytical, laboratory and field test cases. Innovations include a non-stationary wave driver with directional spreading to account for wave-group generated surf and swash motions and an avalanching mechanism providing a smooth and robust solution for slumping of sand during dune erosion. The model performs well in different situations including dune erosion, overwash and breaching with specific emphasis on swash dynamics, avalanching and 2DH effects; these situations are all modelled using a standard set of parameter settings. The results show the importance of infragravity waves in extending the reach of the resolved processes to the dune front. The simple approach to account for slumping of the dune face by avalanching makes the model easily applicable in two dimensions and applying the same settings good results are obtained both for dune erosion and breaching.     

The importance of extratropical and tropical cyclones on the short-term evolution of barrier islands along the northern Gulf of Mexico, USA

Data are presented indicating the complexity and highly variable response of beaches to cold front passages along the northern Gulf of Mexico, in addition to the impacts of tropical cyclones and winter storms. Within the past decade, an increase in the frequency of tropical storms and hurricanes impacting the northern Gulf has dramatically altered the long-term equilibrium of a large portion of this coast. A time series of net sediment flux for subaerial and nearshore environments has been established for a section of this coast in Florida, and to a lesser extent, Mississippi. The data incorporate the morphological signature of six tropical storms/hurricanes and more than 200 frontal passages.

Data indicate that (1) barrier islands can conserve mass during catastrophic hurricanes (e.g., Hurricane Opal, a strong category 4 hurricane near landfall); (2) less severe hurricanes and tropical storms can promote rapid dune aggradation and can contribute sediment to the entire barrier system; (3) cold fronts play a critical role in the poststorm adjustment of the barrier by deflating the subaerial portion of the overwash terrace and eroding its marginal lobe along the bayside beach through locally generated, high frequency, steep waves; and (4) barrier systems along the northern Gulf do not necessarily enter an immediate poststorm recovery phase, although nested in sediment-rich nearshore environments. While high wave energy conditions associated with cold fronts play an integral role in the evolution and maintenance of barriers along the northern Gulf, these events are more effective in reworking sediment after the occurrence of extreme events such as hurricanes. This relationship is even more apparent during the clustering of tropical cyclones.

It is anticipated that these findings will have important implications for the longer term evolution of barrier systems in midlatitude, microtidal settings where the clustering of storms is apparent, and winter storms are significant in intensity and frequency along the coast.     

Intercomparison of coastal area morphodynamic models

Five different coastal area morphodynamic models have been set up to run on the same offshore breakwater layout and an intercomparison carried out on the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic output produced by each scheme. In addition, the predicted morphodynamics was checked against available laboratory and field data.It is concluded that the models are capable of producing realistic estimates for the dominant morphodynamic features associated with offshore breakwaters. Coupling of the wave, current and sediment transport components of each scheme is shown to yield bathymetry which attains a state of equilibrium, unlike models which are based on the initial transport field only.     

Process-based modeling of morphodynamics of a tidal inlet system

The morphodynamic evolution of an idealized inlet system is investigated using a 2-D depthaveraged process-based model,incorporating the hydrodynamic equations,Englund-Hansen’s sediment transport formula and the mass conservation equation.The model has a fixed geometry,impermeable boundaries and uniform sediment grain size,and driven by shore-parallel tidal elevations.The results show that the model reproduces major elements of the inlet system,i.e.,flood and ebb tidal deltas,inlet channel.Equilibrium is reached after several years when the residual transport gradually decreases and eventually diminishes.At equilibrium,the flow field characteristics and morphological patterns agree with the schematized models proposed by O’Brien (1969) and Hayes (1980).The modeled minimum cross-sectional entrance area of the tidal inlet system is comparable with that calculated with the statistical P-A relationship for tidal inlets along the East China Sea coast.The morphological evolution of the inlet system is controlled by a negative feedback between hydrodynamics,sediment transport and bathymetric changes.The evolution rates decrease exponentially with time,i.e.,the system develops rapidly at an early stage while it slows down at later stages.Temporal changes in hydrodynamics occur in the system;for example,the flood velocity decreases while its duration increases,which weakens the flood domination patterns.The formation of the multi-channel system in the tidal basin can be divided into two stages;at the first stage the flood delta is formed and the water depth is reduced,and at the second stage the flood is dissected by a number of tidal channels in which the water depth increases in response to tidal scour.     

Correcting the errors in the initial conditions and wind stress in storm surge simulation using an adjoint optimal technique

An adjoint data assimilation methodology is applied to the Princeton Ocean Model and is evaluated by obtaining “optimal” initial conditions, sea surface forcing conditions, or both for coastal storm surge modelling. By prescribing different error sources and setting the corresponding control variables, we performed several sets of identical twin experiments by assimilating model-generated water levels. The experiment results show that, when the forecasting errors are caused by the initial (or surface boundary) conditions, adjusting initial (or surface boundary) conditions accordingly can significantly improve the storm surge simulation. However, when the forecasting errors are caused by surface boundary (or initial) conditions, data assimilation targeting improving the initial (or surface boundary) conditions is ineffective. When the forecasting errors are caused by both the initial and surface boundary conditions, adjusting both the initial and surface boundary conditions leads to the best results. In practice, we do not know whether the errors are caused by initial conditions or surface boundary conditions, therefore it is better to adjust both initial and surface boundary conditions in adjoint data assimilation.     

中国东南沿海潮灾与防潮对策研究

中国东南沿海是中风暴潮灾害的最严得岸段，本文针对闽，粤，海南三省台风暴潮灾害概况，防潮现状及其存在问题，提出防潮减灾的对策和见解，以祈提醒人们居安思危，防患未然。