海滩风暴效应若干问题思考与我国研究前景

热带风暴是一种频发的灾害性事件,其诱发的大浪及其伴生的风暴潮会在短时间内搬运大量沉积物,对海岸地貌、海底地形和海洋沉积的影响极为严重.总结了未来风暴变化趋势和风暴动力方面的研究进展,概述了近几十年来海滩风暴效应领域几个重要方向的进展,内容包括岸滩风暴灾害调查和研究、海滩风暴效应差异性研究、风暴作用下的泥沙运动和岸滩风暴响应沉积学特征等方面.从国内外的研究现状来看,我国在风暴作用下泥沙运动实测与定量分析、多因素耦合控制下海滩风暴效应差异和海滩风暴地貌过程等方面存在着明显的不足.作为我国海岸科学研究中必需又薄弱的环节,今后该领域的研究应该在强化野外现场实验和监测的基础上,深入探讨极端条件下的海滩过程,发展海滩风暴响应预测模型,并积极开展海滩风暴潮防护技术开发与应用.     

A backbarrier overwash record of intense storms from Brigantine, New Jersey

Analysis of aerial photographs and historic charts indicates that the barrier beach at Brigantine, NJ has migrated landward 300 to 400 m since 1869, primarily as a result of overwash during hurricanes and winter storms. A series of vibracores from the backbarrier salt marsh reveals a millennial-scale stratigraphic record of overwash deposition. Carbon-14 (C-14) and Cesium-137 (Cs-137) radioisotopic methods were used to date overwash deposits (washovers). The ages of recent washovers are consistent with deposition during intense storms in 1938, 1944, 1950, and 1962. An additional overwash deposit recovered in five of the sediment cores was likely deposited by an intense hurricane strike in 1821 or possibly in 1788. Two prehistoric overwash fans were likely deposited by intense storms striking the New Jersey Coast in the 7th to 14th centuries and 6th to 7th centuries A.D. The landward barrier migration indicates that the older overwash sediments were likely transported a considerably greater distance than the more recent overwash fans. The greater distance of transport may indicate that the prehistoric storms that deposited overwash fans across the study site were more intense than the most intense storm to strike this coast in the historic period, the hurricane of 1821. The spatially variable occurrence of overwash deposition at this site points to a need for multisite stratigraphic surveys of extensive stretches of the coast in order to develop reliable records of past intense storm frequency from backbarrier environments.     

Geochemical and stratigraphic indicators of late Holocene coastal evolution in the Gythio area, southern Peloponnese, Greece

The study of past changes in sea level, and of historical and pre-historical coastal evolution, using coastal sediment stratigraphies is well-established over a range of geographic areas, in both seismic and aseismic settings. In the eastern Mediterranean, however, such studies are less common, and, notably, the use of sediment geochemistry, and its combination with lithostratigraphic studies to analyze palaeoenvironmental and palaeo-sea-level change, has not been explored to any significant extent, despite the fact that geochemical data have been successfully used elsewhere to aid in the identification of sea-level changes. Here, we use a combined geochemical, stratigraphic and microfossil approach to reconstruct late Holocene coastal evolution and sea-level change at two sites near Gythio in the southern Peloponnese, Greece. The sites show stratigraphic and geochemical evidence of the presence in Late Helladic times (ca. 1500 BC) of barrier-protected coastal lagoonal/wetland environments, which have gradually infilled over the last ca. 3500 yr. Archaeological remains and ceramic and charcoal-bearing horizons within the sediment sequences indicate Late Roman occupation of the area, although there is no sedimentary evidence of significant pre-Roman activity at the study sites. An apparent brackish wetland peat deposit at − 3.4 m (overlain by anoxic lagoonal clays) at Kamares (Kato Vathi) Bay shows a calibrated radiocarbon age of 1640–1440 BC, suggesting a relative sea-level rise of 0.8–1 mm/yr in this area over the past 3500 yr, in good agreement with previous archaeological and sea-level modelling studies. There is no evidence, based on the stratigraphic, microfossil or geochemical record, of sudden marine flooding events related to local or regional seismic activity, despite the presence of the area in a seismically active zone known to be subject to periodic earthquakes and tsunami. The data highlight the utility of combining geochemical and stratigraphic studies in the reconstruction of coastal evolution and the study of palaeo-sea-level changes, particularly in sequences (such as those described here) where microfossils are poorly preserved.     

Storms and shoreline retreat in the southern Gulf of St. Lawrence

Storms play a major role in shoreline recession on transgressive coasts. In the southern Gulf of St. Lawrence (GSL), southeastern Canada, long-term relative sea-level rise off the North Shore of Prince Edward Island has averaged 0.3 m/century over the past 6000 years (>0.2 m/century over 2000 years). This has driven long-term coastal retreat at mean rates >0.5 m/a but the variance and details of coastal profile response remain poorly understood. Despite extensive sandy shores, sediment supply is limited and sand is transferred landward into multidecadal to century-scale storage in coastal dunes, barrier washover deposits, and flood-tidal delta sinks. Charlottetown tide-gauge records show mean relative sea-level rise of 3.2 mm/a (0.32 m/century) since 1911. A further rise of 0.7±0.4 m is projected over the next 100 years. When differenced from tidal predictions, the water-level data provide a 90-year record of storm-surge occurrence. Combined with wind, wave hindcast, and sea-ice data, this provides a catalogue of potentially significant coastal storms. We also document coastal impacts from three recent storms of great severity in January and October 2000 and November 2001. Digital photogrammetry (1935–1990) and shore-zone surveys (1989–2001) show large spatial and temporal variance in coastal recession rates, weakly correlated with the storm record, in part because of wave suppression or coastal protection by sea ice. Large storms cause rapid erosion from which recovery depends in part on local sand supply, but barrier volume may be conserved by washover deposition. Barrier shores with dunes show high longshore and interdecadal variance, with extensive multidecadal healing of former inlet and overwash gaps. This reflects recovery from an episode of widespread overwash prior to 1935, possibly initiated by intense storms or groups of storms in the latter half of the 19th century. With evidence from the storms of 2000–2001, this points to the importance of storm clustering on scales of weeks to years in determining erosion vulnerability, as well as the need for a long-term, large-scale perspective in assessing coastal stability. The expected acceleration in relative sea-level rise, together with projections of increasing storm intensity and greatly diminished winter ice cover in the southern GSL, implies a significant increase in coastal erosion hazards in future.     

The Sediment Source and Transport Trends around the Abandoned Yellow River Delta,China

Sediment source and transport trends are influenced by various hydrodynamic factors, and thus play important roles in sedimentary evolution and coastal stability. To examine sediment transport trends around the abandoned Yellow River delta promontory and its erosion mechanism, we employ empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis to study sedimentary characteristics and transport trends of the abandoned Yellow River delta in northern Jiangsu Province, China. The results showed that: (1) the main sediment source in the abandoned Yellow River delta is the submarine coastal slope and both sides of the abandoned Yellow River Delta; (2) the main hydrodynamics controlling sediment transport is the current that runs along the shore, coupled with waves, especially southward currents; (3) the sediment of the study area was redistributed under hydrodynamics; coarse sediments were eroded and broadly transported to the south. Therefore, it is concluded that the sediment sources and transport have important influence on coastal evolution: the sediment source area shows mass loss of deposits and erosion; deposits in the submarine coastal slope provide the source and were continuously eroded to provide materials to other places as a sediment source.     

Overwash sedimentation associated with a large-scale northeaster

The December 1, 1974 northeaster was a significant event in terms of sediment transport with 20 m³ of sand per meter of dune breach being carried onto the backdune area of Assateague Island, Maryland as overwash. Previous investigators have reported larger transport rates for landfall hurricanes, but this is the largest amount recorded for a winter northeaster. The Ash Wednesday Storm, March 6–8, 1962, was a much larger event, but no quantitative data exists for overwash deposition.The resulting sedimentary deposit can be interpreted by defining sedimentation units. Inverse sediment grading was predominant, but normal grading occurred when the material was monomineralic and the unit totally depositional in nature. The timing of the storm surge was recorded in some sections as a distinctive heavy mineral enrichment in the sediment.     

湛江红树林保护区现代沉积物粒度特征及其对风暴事件的响应

沉积物粒度是描述沉积环境的重要指标之一,利用沉积物粒度参数可以反演沉积物堆积过程、沉积水动力特征.通过对湛江红树林国家级自然保护内海湾、河口、潮坪区的红树林表层沉积物粒度分析的研究,结果表明：河口与海湾区的红树林沉积物以泥质为主;有堤坝保护的河口区红树林沉积物颗粒细,为悬移质体含量高且连续稳定的低能环境;红树林发育差的潮坪区红树林沉积物为砂含量较大且水动力较强的高能环境.并通过推算海湾区沉积物的沉积年代,结合样品粒度分析的结果得出了该地区风暴潮发生的大致时间.     

气候变化和人类活动影响下黄河远端泥北支粒度组分变化及其区域沉积效应

受限于海洋动力条件的复杂性,基于陆架泥质沉积重建的古气候或古环境一直存在争议。为此,本文在北黄海地区沿沉积物输运路径采集3根柱样,通过沉积物粒度及其端元组分和基于器测数据的东亚冬季风指数和黄海暖流强度,分析了不同泥区沉积物粒度端元组分对冬季风暴和黄海暖流变化的响应机理和强度,揭示了上述变化在不同区域产生的沉积效应。结果表明,近百年以来黄河远端泥北支的沉积物组分变化受到了自然因素和人类活动的共同影响。1980年以后,人类活动对黄河沉积物入海通量及其组成的影响开始增强,并掩盖了自然演化信息。而1980年以前,不同泥区的不同端元组分对冬季风暴和黄海暖流的响应机理和强度存在差异,具有显著的区域沉积效应：粗端元组分受冬季风暴强度变化主导,能够反映山东半岛北岸跨锋面物质输运强度的变化;细端元组分受到黄海暖流强度变化主导,反映沉积物从北黄海西部泥区到辽东半岛东岸泥区的输运过程。上述结论说明,虽然粒度是表征古气候和古环境变化的重要标志物,但应根据不同泥区沉积物来源和沉积动力环境的特点,谨慎选择敏感端元组分,正确地使用粒度指标。     

Facies, internal structures and sequences of modern Gironde-derived muds on the Aquitaine inner shelf, France

Seventy cores from the Aquitaine continental shelf were examined using radiographic and grain-size techniques in order to describe the sedimentary structures of the muddy deposits, and to evaluate their depositional processes. Four lithofacies are identified in this fine-grained deposit: (a) homogeneous silty sand, (b) interbedded homogeneous mud and sand, (c) silty-clayey mud, and (d) mottled mud. They show a logical pattern in relationship to the water depth and the distance from the coast.

Primary structures are present particularly in the landward and central portion of the mud fields, where the sediment is organized into sequences with a sharp-based erosional contact, overlain by a fining-up succession (centimetre to decimetre scale). The beginning of each of these is characteristic of a high-energy storm event, which is common on this shelf. The settling of suspended fine sediment corresponds to the flood estuarine discharge during quiet periods. Primary sedimentary structures decrease in the distal area where the muddy sediment is frequently reworked by infauna. Finally, primary structures and their preservation depend on the relative magnitudes of surface waves, storms, infaunal mixing and fluvial sediment deposition rates (i.e. floods).     

曹妃甸粉沙质海岸围垦后港内泥沙研究

粉沙质海岸离岸围垦后港内淤积引人关注。基于平面二维潮流数学模型,采用网格嵌套技术,模拟了渤海、曹妃甸海域潮流场;该海域泥沙为粘性沙,且围垦后港内流速很小,采用悬沙运动数学模型模拟了潮流和波浪作用下正常天气和大风天的含沙量场,分析了大风后含沙量衰减过程,计算了正常天气年淤积强度和大风天泥沙淤积厚度。计算表明,外海泥沙主要通过甸头东侧老龙沟进入港池水域。正常天气下,港内流速小,基本处于淤积环境,但由于外海含沙量小,港池水域年淤积厚度小于10 cm。大风浪作用下,曹妃甸海域含沙量明显增大,由老龙沟进入三港池的泥沙沿程落淤,港内普遍淤积,泥沙淤积厚度在5 cm以内。     

滨海植物的海岸带减灾特性研究综述

滨海植物广泛分布于海岸带，形成了红树林、盐沼及海草床等湿地系统，具有重要的生态价值和海岸带减灾作用。不同滨海植物的结构和刚柔特性不同，植物群密度及其分布的海洋水动力环境也有差异，因而具有不同的海岸带减灾特性。前人就不同植物类型的海岸带减灾特性开展了丰富的理论研究，本文系统地整理了滨海植物的海岸带减灾事例，从现场观测、水槽试验、数值模拟和理论模型等方面概述了植物群的消浪、阻流、促淤、防冲等相关研究成果，介绍了滨海植物海岸带减灾功能的一般评价方法，分析了各方面研究的不足及后续发展方向。     

海洋风暴沉积的微体生物研究进展

微体生物和它们的化石在研究现代风暴和古风暴沉积方面是一个很好和有效的指标。本文综述了国内外近几十年来有关海洋风暴沉积研究中微体生物的应用。目前主要的研究成果集中在对古风暴层有孔虫、硅藻的研究上,而孢粉方面的研究较少。应用微体化石揭示地质历史时期古风暴的发生频率已较为成熟。但未来需提高古风暴重建的可靠性、准确性和精确性,以及探讨微体化石记录与风暴强度之间的相关关系。有关现代风暴过程中微体生物的研究稍显逊色,研究程度较低。了解现代风暴过程中不同沉积环境下微体生物的沉积特征、面貌,它们的形成和保存机制等将成为未来的研究热点和方向。     

Simulation of storm-induced barrier island morphodynamics and flooding

Prediction of coupled storm hydrodynamics and morphodynamics is essential for accurately designing coastal flood protection measures. A numerical simulation methodology was developed and implemented to evaluate and assess engineering design solutions for storm damage reduction along the south shore of Long Island, New York, USA. This simulation methodology was applied to compute bay water levels for two major coastal storms taking into account contributions from storm surge, waves, wind, and barrier island overwash and breaching. Simulation results for breaching and bay flooding compare well to historically documented barrier island morphological change and bay high water marks.     

水成沉积与风成沉积及古土壤的磁组构特征

晚第四纪水成沉积、风成沉积、古土壤等的磁组构研究表明,不同成因的沉积物具有明显不同的磁组构特征。一般地,水成沉积的体积磁化率Ｋ受物源和水动力因素控制,Ｐ和Ｆ均＞１．０２,ｑ＜０．５;风成沉积的Ｋ受物源控制,内陆黄土的Ｋ明显高于沿海黄土及海岸风沙Ｋ,Ｐ和Ｆ均＜１．０２,ｑ的平均值＞０．５５;古土壤的Ｋ受母质沉积类型和成土环境的氧化还原条件控制,内陆古土壤的Ｋ偏高,沿海古土壤的Ｋ偏低,内陆古土壤的Ｋ远高于沿海古土壤的Ｋ,Ｐ和Ｆ均＜１．０２,ｑ的平均值在０．５左右。运用典型沉积的磁组构特征对比分析未知沉积物,可以得到未知沉积物的物源、沉积过程和环境信息。     

海南岛东南部潟湖台风事件沉积记录

研究海岸潟湖沉积记录可恢复器测记录之前和史前时期热带气旋活动的频率和强度信息。本文试图通过分析潟湖沉积揭示南海北部地区的古台风活动信息,以海南岛东南部两个潟湖的钻孔沉积物为研究对象,选取沉积物粒度、有机质和碳酸盐含量等参数建立台风事件的鉴别指标,同时借助²¹⁰Pb CRS计年模式确定了沉积物柱状样的沉积速率和年代序列,对海南岛东南部的古风暴活动进行了分析。结果显示,柱状岩心清晰地记录了海南省东南部过去350年期间的35次特大风暴潮事件。基于历史文献和沉积记录的风暴沉积事件恢复了近350年来的风暴活动历史,发现海南省东南部特大风暴事件频数与厄尔尼诺强度有显著关系,同时还可能受到太平洋涛动（PDO）、北大西洋涛动（NAO）和太阳黑子活动等多种气候因素的综合影响。本文研究表明,结合风暴沉积记录和历史文献资料可为恢复海岸带地区长时间尺度高分辨率的古风暴活动规律提供有效信息。     

Erosion and sedimentation in Kalpakkam (N Tamil Nadu, India) from the 26th December 2004 tsunami

Laterally extensive sand sheets deposited by the 26th December 2004 Asian tsunami provide a valuable modern analogue for comparison with wash over deposits of unknown origin. In many places on the east coast of India, distinct deposits of marine sand drape the landscape and overlie the muddy soils of the coastal plain. This paper discusses detailed measurements of coastal topography, tsunami flow height, and deposit thickness made at Kalpakkam, India. Five transects were examined in detail to assess the sedimentology and spatial distribution of the tsunami deposit. Near the mean water line, the tsunami eroded approximately 10–25 cm of sand from the beach and berm. At Kalpakkam the sand sheet deposited by the tsunami begins 25 m from the shore extending 420 m inland where it becomes thin and patchy approximately 30 m from the limit of inundation. In some cases, the deposit consists of 2 to 4 normally graded units, with coarse sand near the base and fine sand at the top, a characteristic observed in many tsunami deposits worldwide. In many places, the deposits also contain numerous thin laminated units, a characteristic usually associated with storm over wash. The presence of the laminated beds is indicative of the complexity of tsunami sedimentation on the coast. Such observations are essential to the formation of definitive facies models for palaeo-overwash studies that are capable of distinguishing between sediments deposited by storms or tsunami.     

Geochemistry and particle size of surface sediments of Gulf of Manfredonia (Southern Adriatic sea)

In this study we describe mechanisms influencing the spatial distribution of the surface sediments in the Gulf of Manfredonia. Seventy-three samples were collected on a regional grid and analyzed for grain-size, major and trace elements and organic matter content. Sediments contain marine-derived carbonate as well as terrigenous fractions indicating highly heterogeneous sediment composition dictated by different provenance and complex transport processes. Principal Component Analysis provides information about processes involved in the formation and dispersal of the sediments. The regional sediment distribution is function of the Gulf's morphology and sedimentary inputs from fluvial sources, mainly from the Ofanto River, and from the North and Central Adriatic basin. Biogenic carbonate reefs, identified in two restricted coastal areas add complexity to sediment shelf dispersal. The North-Adriatic current flowing southward transports and deposits sediments from the Northern basin in the offshore area of the Gulf while an inner anticyclonic current distributes and mixes northern and fluvial sediment with a clockwise pattern. In order to better assess the fluvial contribution also bedload samples from the main river debouching into the Gulf were sampled, enabling the identification of geochemical indexes to distinguish the role of both fluvial inputs and hydrodynamic processes affecting solid particles dispersion within the Gulf. This study provides a contribution to a qualitative estimate of the sediment supply entailed in the Southwestern Adriatic basin.     

陆架海岸台风沉积记录及信息提取

长时间尺度风暴强度–频率关系与气候变化相关联,而器测记录和历史记载难以提供充分的信息,因此从沉积记录中提取风暴信息成为一个前沿科学问题。在应用上,这项研究可为海岸带城市群应对未来气候和海面变化提供决策依据。本文回顾了台风沉积记录研究进展,显示陆架泥质沉积、海滩及海岸沙丘、潮滩、潟湖、巨砾是台风事件记录的良好载体,可通过层序形态和物质特性分析而识别。同时,还需进一步完善分析方法,以区分台风、冬季风暴、河流洪水和海啸等不同类型的极端事件沉积。在台风强度信息提取方面,陆架泥质沉积所含贝壳–粗颗粒沉积物可作为海底再悬浮强度的指标,但需更多实测数据的率定;海滩及海岸沙丘顶部的台风沉积分布高程指示了台风激浪流的上冲高度,而台风巨砾的重量可以与近岸波浪的波高建立联系。以上数据经过换算后可以得出台风强度的信息,虽然这些间接的沉积学信息还不足以建立风暴强度–频率关系,但有助于台风强度大数据的建立。潮滩、潟湖沉积连续性好,可构成台风事件的时间序列,然而关于台风强度却是多解的,台风最大风力、持续时间、移动路径、登陆地点的不同组合可能产生同样的事件沉积。我们建议,应发展台风信息提取的新方法,来解决这个问题。进行现代过程模拟,根据已知的台风事件资料构建沉积物输运堆积模型,使之能够复演事件沉积的特征;进行多个地点事件沉积的反演模拟,在此情形下,即便每个站位的结果是多解的,但针对多个站位上求取其解的交集之后,多解性将下降,这种模拟方法可称之为“解空间收缩法”;采用大数据融合方式,将其他来源的台风强度数据纳入模拟体系,可进一步降低风暴信息提取的不确定性。动力过程模拟与大数据融合方法的建立,有助于获得与沉积记录同样时间尺度的台风强度–频率关系曲线,进而分析台风动态与气候变化的关系。     

苏北辐射沙洲岸滩沉积物元素地球化学记录的百年尺度环境变化

苏北辐射沙洲是分布于江苏岸外的典型沉积堆积体,受长江、黄河泥沙供给和近岸潮流动力的共同影响,发育了典型的粉砂淤泥质潮滩,沉积物元素可以记录潮滩环境变化的重要信息。在辐射沙洲岸滩采集了3个短柱沉积物岩芯,建立可靠的年代框架,采用高分辨率XRF元素扫描仪进行地球化学元素测试,选用XRF信号强度高的14种元素进行聚类和相关性方法提取环境信息,研究过去百年尺度人类活动和海岸环境变化下的苏北辐射沙洲岸滩沉积环境变化。结果表明,该区典型潮滩剖面岩芯沉积物中Si、Ca、As和Fe元素相对含量较高,且自北向南其含量不断增加,Mn、Ba、Cu和Zn元素含量较低,在所有剖面含量变化不大。在垂向上,Si、Ca和Fe元素变化趋势一致,而Ni、Zn和S元素在不同柱状岩芯中呈现与Si、Ca和Fe相反的变化趋势。相关关系和聚类分析显示,Si、Ca和Fe元素之间具有较高的相关性,即具有近似的地球化学行为和一致的物质来源;与元素Ni、Cu和Zn呈负相关,暗示了这几种元素与前者具有不同的地球化学行为。苏北辐射沙洲潮滩沉积物沉积环境发生了明显变化且在不同区域呈现不同的变化规律,物质来源、水动力环境、人类活动等因素是导致沉积环境变化的主要原因。     

The tsunami hypothesis—comparisons of the field evidence against the effects, on the Western Australian coast, of some of the most powerful storms on Earth

The tsunami hypothesis proposes that prehistoric tsunamis may have been larger than historic ones along coasts normally (historically) not associated with major tsunamis. The evidence for the hypothesis rests with the types of unusual sedimentary deposits and erosional forms along coasts where the largest historic and prehistoric storm waves do not appear capable of forming the features. This is especially the case at locations where boundary conditions, i.e. offshore water depth, coastal geomorphology and meteorological limitations, are not conducive to the propagation of sufficiently large storm waves at the shore. The tsunami hypothesis has been barely debated in the literature. This is despite the view of some, who suggest that storms have been overlooked, or underestimated, as a cause. Few comparisons have been made of the supposed tsunami generated features and the impacts on coasts of extreme intensity storms. Four of the most powerful tropical cyclones anywhere in the world in recent times struck the Western Australian coast between 1999 and 2002. The results of post-event surveys of these storms showed that none of them produced the enigmatic forms attributed elsewhere to tsunamis.