国外砂质海滩沙坝地貌动力学研究进展

本文从地貌动力学角度综述了沙坝时空变化、实地观测技术、形成机制和海滩状态，以及沙坝分类研究的成果。文中从三个方面介绍了沙坝的成因：（１）破波点－沙坝过程；（２）长周期驻立边缘波；（３）波流联合输沙。指出今后的重点和方向是探求沙坝的运动和形态特征与近岸环流模式的关系，以及与沙坝时空变化相联系的潲滩过程。海滩沙坝地貌动力学的研究有赖于运用先进的技术和长期的实地观测。     

企望湾砂质海滩剖面冲淤幅度的估算

以海滩沉积地貌现场观测资料为基础 ,通过海滩剖面形态组合 ,历史地形资料比较和特征地貌形态变化理论计算分析 ,对汕头南部企望湾弧形砂质海岸切线段的海滩剖面冲淤幅度进行了估算。结果表明 ,该海滩剖面冲淤幅度具有区段变化 ,低潮阶地和槽谷部位约 1 .5～ 2 .0m,滩肩和水下沙坝部位可达 3 .0 m。近 3 0年来 ,海滩剖面总体上趋于微冲刷 ,平均冲刷强度约为 1～ 2 cm/a,可能与近期人工挖砂有关。     

山东半岛砂质海滩动力地貌演化特征

为探讨山东半岛砂质海滩的动力地貌学特征,利用波浪和潮汐资料计算了山东半岛浪潮作用指数K和波浪-沉积物参数(Dean参数(Ω)),并进行了地貌类型划分;结合2012~2015年对山东半岛不同地理岸段砂质海岸地形地貌、表层沉积物进行的7次监测,对海滩监测剖面地形高程和表层沉积物粒度监测数据进行了研究,结果表明:山东半岛北部烟台多处海滩为消散型,局部过渡性;威海东侧和山东半岛南部海滩属于过渡型或反射型;不同类型沙滩季节变化差别明显,消散型海滩夏季容易形成沿岸沙坝,冬季海滩沙坝明显受到侵蚀;而过渡型或反射型海滩变化趋势相反,冬季靠近高潮线的部位淤积,形成滩肩,夏季受到侵蚀消失。山东半岛北部海滩粒径较粗,并呈现逐年变粗的趋势,而山东半岛南部粒径较细且逐年变细;季节变化受到波浪条件和季节差异的控制,招远、龙口、威海、日照地区较牟平、海阳、青岛等平直岸段冬季沉积物比夏季粗。山东半岛砂质海滩的地貌形态受海岸的地理位置、海洋动力条件、岸线走向及沙源供给等多种沉积环境因素的影响,人类活动的影响可在短期内对海滩造成剧烈变化,引起海岸严重侵蚀。     

华南砂质海滩的动力地貌分析

为探讨华南砂质海滩的动力地貌学特征,对不同地理岸段不同地貌形态的8 个沙滩剖面于冬、夏季进行现场重复调查和室内分析工作.据此,通过对华南海岸带地质构造、地貌和现代海岸动力环境地域变化的分析,将华南沿海砂质海岸划分为岬湾岸、沙坝-潟湖岸和夷直岸三种基本海岸地貌类型,并且从滩面倾向、海岸动力环境影响、季节冲淤变化趋势和滩面沉积物粒径、坡度的动力响应等方面探讨砂质海滩的动力地貌,得出其受制于多种环境因素的影响,其中地质构造背景和海平面变化为大尺度的砂质海岸地貌的发育奠定了基础,而全新世海侵海平面相对稳定后,海岸动力条件的塑造起着决定性的影响,浪潮作用指数是其中重要的影响指标.     

广西江平地区沙坝-泻湖沉积相序与沉积环境演变过程

本文在地貌、第四纪地质野外调查和３３个钻孔资料的基础上,运用粒度、碎屑重矿物、微体古生物和１４Ｃ年代测定等方法探讨江平沿岸沙坝－泻湖体系的沉积相序和沉积环境演变过程。沙坝－泻湖发育在一片起伏不平的基岩侵蚀面上,其沉积相序自下而上为：基岩侵蚀面→河床→、河漫滩相→河口湾、近岸浅海相→滨外沙坝、半封闭泻湖相→风成沙丘、封闭充填泻湖沼泽相。本区的沙坝泻湖属于海退型。作者初步认为本区沙坝可分为新、老２期,老沙坝大约形成于６７００～３６００ａＢ．Ｐ,新沙坝大约形成于２３００～１０００ａＢ．Ｐ。     

福建岬湾岸型沙质海滩对台风的响应特征

对福建沿岸岬湾岸型沙质海滩的蚀淤变化分析,结果表明:在0418号台风"艾利"袭击下,台风移动路径左侧的两个海滩表现为侵蚀,滩肩蚀低,滨线向陆移动,其中岩下村海滩比卒子村海滩的侵蚀严重,岩下村海滩侵蚀集中在后滨和高潮带,卒子村海滩侵蚀集中在中、低潮带;台风移动路径右侧的衙口村海滩相对比较稳定,仅中潮带出现弱淤积,后滨向陆侧人工堆积沙丘遭受侵蚀.     

美国东海岸海滩养护工程对中国砂质海滩旅游资源开发与保护的启示

借鉴美国长期以来东部海岸的海滩养护工程投入大量资金物力所取得的显著成效，提出了中国砂质海滩资源开发面临的问题，如海岸侵蚀造成砂质海滩资源丧失、砂质海滩旅游资源面临严重的污染、砂质海滩旅游资源的利用程度差异悬殊、砂质海滩旅游资源的人为破坏严重等，预见到中国实施海滩养护工程将是大势所趋，该工程将会被纳入国家或地方海岸综合规划管理与相关法律中。     

青岛海滩沉积构造及其底形特征

通过对青岛汇泉湾垂直剖面沉积构造的分析,揭示了汇泉湾的沙坝一泻湖沉积体系的形成与演化过程;对山东头海滩典型剖面及沉积构造、流清河剖面及海滩底形进行了调查与分析,研究了青岛东部海岸的现代沉积环境。     

基于连岛沙坝原理设计的海滩排水管头地貌稳定性研究

海滩排水管建设对海滩环境影响较大。以厦门会展中心连岛沙坝式排水管头工程影响海滩演变为例,研究连岛沙坝式海滩排水管头对海滩地形稳定性和沉积的影响。1)通过对研究区连岛沙坝式管头附近海滩10条剖面进行分析,研究管头附近海滩滩肩宽度、滩面坡度和单宽留存沙量等剖面形态变化特征。测量数据分析表明,无管头保护滩面高程降低,滩面坡度总体变陡,滩肩蚀退严重;受管头保护滩面高程上升,坡度变缓,滩肩宽度略有减小,剖面单宽沙量留存比例大于1。2)2012-2016年多期岸线及管头边界线变化结果表明,工程施工后,排水管身始终被沙体覆盖,一年后部分管头被沙体覆盖,最终管头被覆盖率稳定在70%以上。3)会展管头附近海滩潮上带和高潮带沉积物自北向南运移,低潮带则相反;潮上带和中潮带上部沉积物从管头所在"连岛沙坝"向两侧海滩输移,而低潮带和中潮带下部输移方向相反。沉积物粒径由岸向海逐渐变粗,越靠近管头,沉积物粒径呈变细趋势。最后讨论了引起管头局部海滩地形地貌变化的主要因素。     

渤海曹妃甸沙坝-泻湖海岸现代沉积的磁化率与粒度、矿物的关系

根据实测数据,对曹妃务沙专－泻湖海岸现代沉积的磁化率、频率磁化率与粒度、矿物的关系进行了探讨。曹妃甸海区沉积类型较为复杂,可划分为深水区、潮滩区、沙坝区、潮汐汊道区。磁化率、频率磁化率同粒度分布一样?各分区各具特点,表现了不同地貌部位与水动力环境的差异,显示出委强的分现象。磁化率同金属矿物及磁铁矿具有较高的相关性,相关系数分别为０．６１３、０．７３１。用磁化率分工表征各分区沉积物的特点,深水区沉积     

The Interstitial Environment of Sandy Beaches

Abstract. The interstitial system of sandy beaches is lacunar and has its dimensions defined by the sand granulometry. It can be described by features such as pore size, porosity, permeability, and water content. The most important process occurring in this system, water filtration, is driven by inputs of freshwater from groundwater discharge, and inputs of seawater by tides, wave run-up, and subtidal wave pumping. Reflective beaches have seawater input effected mainly by waves; they filter large water volumes with short residence times. Dissipative beaches display the opposite patterns, slowly filtering small volumes input by tides. Flow patterns and their effects on interstitial climate are described. The water table of the beach moves in response to groundwater discharge, tides, and waves and influences erosion/accretion processes on the beach face: a high water table promotes erosion. A series of moisture zones can be recognised from the dry surface sand at upper tide levels, to permanently saturated sand below the low tide water table, namely: a stratum of dry sand, a stratum of retention, a stratum of resurgence, and stratum of saturation. Interstitial chemistry is briefly described in terms of salinity changes, organic loads, oxygen content, and nutrient cycling. It is concluded that the interstitial environment of sandy beaches spans a continuum between physically and chemically controlled extremes: the former condition occurs on coarse sand reflective beaches, which experience low organic inputs and high filtration rates of large water volumes — resulting in powerful hydrodynamic forces; the latter occurs on dissipative beaches of fine sand, which are subject to high organic inputs and low filtration volumes — resulting in stagnation and steep vertical chemical gradients. Many intermediate situations occur and these are more favourable to interstitial life than either of the extremes.     

热带气旋前进方向两侧海滩风暴效应差异研究--以海滩对0307号台风"伊布都"的响应为例

在0307号台风“伊布都”(Imbudo)袭击华南沿海前后,对相距约300km的高栏岛飞沙湾(位于气旋前进方向右侧)和水东港下大海(位于气旋前进方向左侧)的固定海滩剖面地形及滩面沉积物进行了对比调查。调查结果表明,右侧海滩地形受台风暴浪冲击发生剧烈变化：后滨陆侧堆积,后滨向海侧及前滨滩面侵蚀(单宽侵蚀量达55m^3／m,平均海面(MSL)位置蚀退13m,岸线位置蚀退5m),以致剖面类型由滩肩式断面向沙坝式断面转变,表现出了海滩对台风做出快速响应;而左侧海滩剖面地形基本保持原状,虽也略呈侵蚀,但冲淤变化不大,表现为对台风做出迟缓响应。同时,从动力、滨海输沙、滩面沉积物变化和海岸地貌等方面对两侧海滩明显差异的风暴效应的机制进行了探讨。     

Community and Population Responses of the Macroinfauna to Physical Factors over a Range of Exposed Sandy Beaches in South-central Chile

Ten exposed sandy sites covering a range from reflective to dissipative beaches were sampled in south-central Chile to evaluate: (1) spatial changes in species richness, abundance and biomass of the intertidal macroinfauna in response to changes in mean grain size, beach face slope and beach type, and (2) spatial changes in abundance, biomass and body sizes of the most abundant species in response to changes in the physical factors. The number of species, abundance and biomass per beach in general decreased with increasing particle size and beach face slope (steeper beaches) and increased from reflective to dissipative conditions. The best fit for number of species was with Dean's parameter, a measure of beach type, whereas for abundance and biomass the best fits were found with particle size. The isopod Excirolana braziliensis and the anomuran Emerita analoga increased in abundance and biomass towards dissipative conditions, whereas Excirolana hirsuticauda showed the opposite trend in biomass and was significantly larger in beaches with steeper profiles. It is concluded that responses to changes in beach type are more pronounced at community level than within species populations.     

Surf Zone Hyperbenthos of Belgian Sandy Beaches: Seasonal Patterns

Since surf zone hyperbenthos, although highly important in local food webs, has often been neglected and very little information is available, a survey of the Belgian sandy beaches was carried out from May 1996 until July 1997. Monthly samples were taken to give a complete record of hyperbenthic organisms occurring in the surf zone of Belgian sandy beaches and to evaluate the intensity by which this surf zone is used. In total 172 species were recorded. The number of species occurring in the surf zone is comparable to that of adjacent areas. As well as true hyperbenthic species, endobenthic and planktonic organisms were sampled. More than 75% of the average total sample composition consisted of mysids, mainly Mesopodopsis slabberi,Schistomysis spiritus and Schistomysis kervillei (holohyperbenthos). Apart from several resident species, active and passive seasonal migration towards the surf zone by a number of species is suggested. A large number of sporadic species adds to the composition of surf zone hyperbenthos. Within the merohyperbenthos, postlarval decapods and fish were the dominant organisms. During the year three recruitment peaks were observed. Average densities per month exceeded 1500 ind. 100 m⁻². Yearly biomass averages ranged from 300 to over 3000 mg ADW 100 m⁻². Densities of the common species are slightly higher in the surf zone than in other habitats, emphasising the importance of the area. Besides a possible nursery function, the surf zone may also be used as a transient area between different habitats. Finally, the influence of several abiotic factors on the hyperbenthic assemblages was evaluated. The main structuring variables determining the occurrence of most of the organisms are water temperature and hydrodynamic factors such as wave height and turbidity. The influence of wave height seems to be two-fold: several good swimmers such as mysids and some fish species are suggested to be able to actively avoid severe wave conditions, whereas other, more planktonic organisms, are passively transported towards the area if wave height increases.     

A Numerical Model of Coastal Processes of Sand Beaches Based on Long-Term Wave Series

A numerical model of shoreline change of sand beaches based on long-term field wave data is proposed, the explicit and implicit finite difference forms of the model are described, and an application of the model is presented. Results of the application indicate that the model is sensitive to the order of the input wave data, and that the effects of long-term wave series and the effects of the mean annual wave conditions on the model are different. Instead of a single wave condition, the wave series will make the calibration and the verification of the model more practical and the results of the model more reasonable.     

青岛市海滩表层砂的干密度特征研究

通过对青岛市主要旅游海滩(第一海水浴场、第二海水浴场、金沙滩、石老人、仰口和流清河海滩)进行野外调查,并对162个表层砂样品进行室内实验,分析了各海滩表层砂的干密度变化特征。结果表明:研究区的6个海滩表层砂的干密度在高潮线至低潮线方向由小变大,具有良好的一致性;而在剖面A至剖面C方向上每个海滩表层砂的干密度具有自己独特的变化特征;平均粒径是影响表层砂干密度的重要因素,干密度的大小与平均粒径呈负相关关系。     

海洋近表层流和上层温盐对1215号台风“天秤”的响应

本研究采用漂流浮标数据、多种卫星数据及全球高分辨率的温盐剖面数据,探讨海洋近表层流和上层温盐对1215号台风"天秤"的响应。在距离强台风"天秤"中心的50km处测到了2.3m?s?1的近表层流速,但在其他类似情况下测到的流速却不足1m?s?1,表现出较大的差异。其原因为:位于冷暖水团交汇锋面区的漂流浮标流向多变,因而平均流速较慢。此外,在强台风过境后1~2d过境轨迹的两边和强台风过境后5~6d过境轨迹右边的海洋上层均发生了强烈的垂直混合,使得温度降低,盐度增加;混合层以下均表现出明显的上升流特征,说明台风的气旋式应力引起了海洋温跃层的强烈抬升,对上层海洋起到"冷抽吸"的作用。     

Is the Determination of Meiobenthic Diversity Affected by the Sampling Method in Sandy Beaches?

Abstract. Meiobenthic samples were collected by two different methods from the microtidal coralline sand beach at Gosier, Guadeloupe, West Indies: (I) vertical cores and (2) the K araman /C happuis (KC) technique of digging a hole and filtering the seepage water from the bottom. Nematode species diversity was unaffected by the sampling method, but nematode species composition differed. There was no evidence from statistical analysis to suggest differences in diversity or composition of higher taxa between sampling methods, although gastrotrichs appeared to be underrepresented by the KC technique.     

滦河三角洲砂坝-潟湖海岸环境的遥感分析与区域开发潜力的评价

本文就不同类型淀湖在不同时相条件下,对卫星遥感谱段响应的分析结果,将研究区的信息进行了提取与复合.继之,解译了封闭与半封闭漏湖的发育进程和表观特征,并就七个潟湖区段环境乃至开发前景作了详细的阐述.