Direct bed shear stress measurements in bore-driven swash

Direct measurements of bed shear in the swash zone are presented. The data were obtained using a shear plate in medium and large-scale laboratory bore-driven swash and cover a wide range of bed roughness. Data were obtained across the full width of the swash zone and are contrasted with data from the inner surf zone. Estimates of the flow velocities through the full swash cycle were obtained through numerical modelling and calibrated against measured velocity data. The measured stresses and calculated flow velocities were subsequently used to back-calculate instantaneous local skin friction coefficients using the quadratic drag law. The data show rapid temporal variation of the bed shear stress through the leading edge of the uprush, which is typically two–four times greater than the backwash shear stresses at corresponding flow velocity. The measurements indicate strong temporal variation in the skin friction coefficient, particularly in the backwash. The general behaviour of the skin friction coefficient with Reynolds number is consistent with classical theory for certain stages of the swash cycle. A spatial variation in skin friction coefficient is also identified, which is greatest across the surf-swash boundary and likely related to variations in local turbulent intensities. Skin friction coefficients during the uprush are approximately twice those in the backwash at corresponding Reynolds number and cross-shore location. It is suggested that this is a result of the no-slip condition at the tip leading to a continually developing leading edge and boundary layer, into which high velocity fluid and momentum are constantly injected from the flow behind and above the tip region. Finally, the measured stress data are used to determine the asymmetry and cross-shore variation in potential sediment transport predicted by three forms of sediment transport formulae.     

Measurement and modeling of bed shear stress under solitary waves

Direct measurements of bed shear stresses (using a shear cell apparatus) generated by non-breaking solitary waves are presented. The measurements were carried out over a smooth bed in laminar and transitional flow regimes (~ 10⁴ < R_e < ~ 10⁵). Measurements were carried out where the wave height to water depth (h/d) ratio varied between 0.12 and 0.68; maximum near bed velocity varied between 0.16 m/s and 0.51 m/s and the maximum total shear stress (sum of skin shear stress and Froude–Krylov force) varied between 0.386 Pa and 2.06 Pa. The total stress is important in determining the stability of submarine sediment and in sheet flow regimes. Analytical modeling was carried out to predict total and skin shear stresses using convolution integration methods forced with the free stream velocity and incorporating a range of eddy viscosity models. Wave friction factors were estimated from skin shear stress at different instances over the wave (viz., time of maximum positive total shear stress, maximum skin shear stress and at the time of maximum velocity) using both the maximum velocity and the instantaneous velocity at that phase of the wave cycle. Similarly, force coefficients obtained from total stress were estimated at time of maximum positive and negative total stress and at maximum velocity. Maximum positive total shear stress was approximately 1.5 times larger than minimum negative total stress. Modeled and measured positive bed shear stresses are well correlated using the best convolution model, but the model underestimates the data by about 4%. Friction factors are dependent on the choice of normalizing using the maximum velocity, as is conventional, or the instantaneous velocity. These differ because the stress is not in phase with the velocity in general. Friction factors are consistent with previous data for monochromatic waves, and vary inversely with the square-root of the Reynolds number. The total shear stress leads the free stream fluid velocity by approximately 50°, whereas the skin friction shear stress leads by about 30°, which is similar to that reported by earlier researchers.     

Reynolds number variation in oscillatory boundary layers: Part I. Purely oscillatory motion

A numerical model based upon a low Reynolds number turbulence closure is proposed to study Reynolds number variation in reciprocating oscillatory boundary layers. The model is used to compute the boundary layer for flow regimes ranging from smooth laminar to rough turbulent. Criteria for fully developed turbulence are derived for walls of the smooth and rough types. In particular, a new criterion to identify the rough turbulent regime is determined based on the time-averaged turbulence intensity. The reliability of the present model is assessed through comparisons with detailed experimental data collected by other investigators. The model globally improves upon standard high Reynolds number closures. Variation through the wave cycle of the main flow variables (ensemble-averaged velocity, shear stress, turbulent kinetic energy) is remarkably well-predicted for smooth walls. Predictions are satisfactory for rough walls as well. Yet, the turbulence level in the rough turbulent regime is overpredicted in the vicinity of the bed.     

A model of the formation and development of ocean shear wave

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Modification of the damping function in the k–ε model to analyse oscillatory boundary layers

A simple relationship has been developed between the wall coordinate y⁺ and Kolmogorov's length scale using direct numerical simulation (DNS) data for a steady boundary layer. This relationship is then utilized to modify two popular versions of low Reynolds number k–ε model. The modified models are used to analyse a transitional oscillatory boundary layer. A detailed comparison has been made by virtue of velocity profile, turbulent kinetic energy, Reynolds stress and wall shear stress with the available DNS data. It is observed that the low Reynolds number models used in the present study can predict the boundary layer properties in an excellent manner.     

Laboratory and numerical study of dambreak-generated swash on impermeable slopes

New laboratory experiments have produced detailed measurements of hydrodynamics within swash generated by bore collapse on a steep beach. The experiments are based on a dambreak rig producing a highly repeatable, large-scale swash event, enabling detailed measurements of depths and velocities at a number of locations across the swash zone. Experiments were conducted on two beaches, differentiated by roughness. Results are presented for uprush shoreline motion, flow depths, depth-averaged velocity, velocity profiles and turbulence intensity. Estimates of the time- and spatially-varying bed shear stress are obtained via log-law fitting to the velocity profiles and are compared with the shear plate measurements of Barnes et al. (2009) for similar experimental conditions. Experimental results are compared with model predictions based on a NLSWE model with momentum loss parameterised using the simple quadratic stress law in terms of the depth-averaged velocity. Predicted and measured flow depths and depth-averaged velocities agree reasonably well for much of the swash period, but agreement is not good at the time of bore arrival and towards the end of the backwash. The parameterisation of total momentum loss via the quadratic stress law cannot adequately model the swash bed shear stress at these critical times.     

海底滑坡对海洋单桩冲击力试验研究

为了研究海底滑坡对海洋单桩的冲击力大小,首先通过调整高岭土、粉砂的不同含量,得到不同流变特性、不同密度的碎屑流,采用Herschel-Bulkley模型和幂率模型对流体流变性质进行描述;随后利用自制海底滑坡模型槽,模拟碎屑流在不同流速和黏度下对模型桩的冲击;并结合流体力学理论,建立阻力系数与非牛顿流体雷诺数之间关系表达式。试验数据表明:碎屑流黏度和流速是影响海底滑坡冲击力的主要因素,海底滑坡冲击力随着泥浆黏度和流速的增加而增大。同时,考虑碎屑流剪切稀释特性,得到管桩阻力系数随雷诺数变化的拟合公式,为海洋桩基础设计提供参考。     

In-line force on a cylinder translating in oscillatory flow

Experiments were conducted with smooth and sand-roughened cylinders moving with constant velocity in a sinusoidally oscillating flow to determine the drag and inertia coefficients and to examine the effect of wake biasing on the modified Morison equation. The various flow parameters such as the relative cylinder velocity. Reynolds number, and the Keulegan-Carpenter number were varied systematically and the in-line force measured simultaneously. The principal results, equally valid for both smooth and rough cylinders, are as follows: the drag coefficient decreases with increasing relative current for a given Reynolds number and Keulegan-Carpenter number; the effect of wake biasing on the drag and inertia coefficients is most pronounced in the drag-inertia dominated regime; and the two-term Morison equation with force coefficients obtained under no-current conditions is not applicable to the prediction of wave and current induced loads on circular cylinders.     

Current-induced scour around a vertical pile in cohesive soil

Stability of many ocean structures is affected by seabed scour induced by under-currents. The depth of scour is an important parameter for determining the minimum depth of foundations as it reduces the lateral capacity of the foundations. A review of the literature reveals that there is not much information available in the field of scour in cohesive soils. Hence, a detailed laboratory testing programme on model piles of diameters 50 mm to 110 mm embedded in soft silty clay soil was carried out in a wave flume of 30 m long, 2.0 m wide and 1.7 m deep, which has the capability of simulating steady currents. Scour around the pile due to steady streaming is monitored by using special instrumentation. A procedure has been suggested to predict the ultimate scour depths based on the observed variation in scour depth over a limited time period. The study indicates that the ultimate scour depth is controlled by diameter of obstruction, current velocity, model Reynolds number, flow Froude number, shear stress, and soil characteristics. Based on these results, a few functional relationships are suggested between scour depth and other parameters like Reynolds number, Froude number, and strength of the soil bed.     

Oscillating viscous flow over an inclined elliptic cylinder

The problem of oscillating viscous flow over a stationary cylinder of elliptic cross-section is investigated. The free stream direction is horizontal and is always normal to the cylinder axis and oscillations are only allowed in the magnitude of the stream velocity. The flow is incompressible and two-dimensional and the free steam oscillations are harmonic. The elliptic cylinder considered has a major-minor axis ratio of 0.6 and is inclined to the free stream direction at angles of incidence of either 30 or 60°. The investigation is based on the solution of the time-dependent Navier-Stokes equations together with the mass conservation equation. The parameters involved are the cylinder axis ratio, angle of incidence, Reynolds number, and Strouhal number. The Reynolds number ranges between 10² and 10³ and the Strouhal number ranges between π/4 and π/2. The time variation of the flow field is presented in the form of streamline patterns as well as surface vorticity distribution. The surface pressure distribution and the time variation of the in-line and transverse force coefficients are also presented and compared with an inviscid flow solution for the same problem. The comparison between viscous and inviscid flow results shows a better agreement for higher values of Reynolds and Strouhal numbers.     

The wind field over wind-waves

The velocity fluctuations of wind over wind-waves in a wind tunnel are measured with a X-type hot-wire anemometer at some heights over the water surface.The observed vertical profiles of the wave-induced velocity fluctuations and the wave-induced Reynolds stress at the wave spectral peak frequency are different from those expected from the inviscid quasi-laminar model;i.e., the observed vertical profiles of the power spectral density of the wave-induced horizontal or vertical velocity fluctuations of wind have the minimum value at the height much heigher than the critical layer, and the value of the wave-induced Reynolds stress is negative at several heights over the water surface. From the comparison between the experimental results and the numerical solutions of a linear model of the turbulent shear flow over the wavy boundary, it is shown that the discrepancy described above can be attributed to the atmospheric turbulence.     

Flow through nets and trawls of low porosity

In trawls intended for harvesting marine zooplankton the mesh size and twine thickness may be as small as O(10⁻⁴ m), the porosity less than 0.5 and the appropriate Reynolds number O(10⁰−10²). The flow locally through the meshes varies strongly with the Reynolds number in this range, and the entire flow field, filtered volume and drag of such nets therefore depend strongly on the net parameters and towing velocity.This paper presents a simplified model for the flow through and forces on inclined permeable screens based on pressure drop considerations. For conical nets the model provides simple expressions for the filtration efficiency and drag as functions of twine diameter, mesh opening, porosity, taper angle and flow (towing) velocity. Comparisons with test tank measurements of typical plankton nets show good agreement.     

Large-eddy simulation of the turbulent near wake behind a circular cylinder: Reynolds number effect

The purpose of the present work is <!–<query>The highlights are in an incorrect format. Hence they have been deleted. Please refer the online instructions: http://www.elsevier.com/highlights and provide 3-5 bullet points.</query>–>to study the effect of the Reynolds number on the near-wake structure and separating shear layers behind a circular cylinder. Three-dimensional unsteady large-eddy simulation is carried out and two different subgrid scale models are applied in order to evaluate the turbulent wake reasonably. The Reynolds number based on the free-stream velocity and the cylinder diameter is ranging from Re = 5500–41,300, corresponding to the full development of the shear-layer instability in the intermediate subcritical flow regime. For a complete validation of this numerical study, hydrodynamic bulk coefficients are computed and compared to experimental measurements and numerical studies in the literature. Special focus is made on the variations of both the large-scale near-wake structure and the small-scale shear-layer instability with increasing Reynolds numbers. The present numerical study clearly shows the broadband nature of the shear-layer instability as well as the dependence of the shear-layer frequency especially on the high Reynolds numbers.     

Effects of mass and damping ratios on VIV of a circular cylinder

In this study the basic characteristics of the dynamic response and vortex shedding from an elastically mounted circular cylinder in laminar flow is numerically investigated. The Reynolds number ranges from 80 to 160, a regime that is fully laminar. The governing equations of fluid flow are cast in terms of vorticity. The two-dimensional vorticity transport equation is solved using a vortex method. Effects of important parameters on the system response and vortex shedding are investigated; these include: mass ratio, damping ratio, Reynolds number and reduced velocity. The numerical results show that a decrease in either the mass ratio or damping ratio of the system can lead to an increase in both the oscillation amplitude and the reduced velocity range over which lock-in occurs. The results also suggest that the mass-damping parameter may characterize the system response adequately, although the effect of changing mass ratio appears to be a little more profound compared to damping ratio. Vorticity contour plots suggest that the vortex shedding occurs in the 2S mode, although a wake structure similar to the C(2S) mode appears at distances 15–20 diameters downstream in the lock-in region. The simulation results are in good agreement with previously published data.     

A Lagrangian model for boundary layer growth and bed shear stress in the swash zone

A new model for the boundary layer development and associated skin friction coefficients and shear stress within the swash zone is presented. The model is developed within a Lagrangian reference frame, following fluid trajectories, and can be applied to both laminar flow and smooth turbulent flow. The model is based on the momentum integral approach for steady, flat-plate boundary layers, with appropriate modifications to account for the unsteady flow regime and flow history. The model results are consistent with previous measurements of bed shear stress and skin friction coefficients within the swash zone. These indicate strong temporal and spatial variation throughout the swash cycle, and a clear distinction between the uprush and backwash phase. This variation has been previously attributed the unsteady flow regime and flow history effects, both of which are accounted for in the new model. Fluid particle trajectories and velocity are computed using the non-linear shallow water wave equations and the boundary layer growth across the entire swash zone is estimated. Predictions of the bed shear stress and skin friction coefficients agree reasonably well with direct bed shear stress measurements reported by Barnes et al. (Barnes, M.P., O’Donaghue, T., Alsina, J.M., Baldock, T.E., 2009. Direct bed shear stress measurements in bore-driven swash. Coastal Engineering 56 (8), 853–867) and, for a given flow velocity, give stresses which are consistent with the bias toward uprush sediment transport which has consistently been observed in measurements. The data and modelling suggest that the backwash boundary layer is initially laminar, which results in the late development of significant bed shear during the backwash, with a transition to a turbulent boundary layer later in the backwash. A new conceptual model for the boundary layer structure at the leading edge of the swash is proposed, which accounts for both the no-slip condition at the bed and the moving wet–dry interface. However, further development of the Lagrangian Boundary Layer Model is required in order to include bore-generated turbulence and to account for variable roughness and mobile beds.     

Experimental study of turbulent oscillatory boundary layers in an oscillating water tunnel

A high-quality experimental study including a large number of tests which correspond to full-scale coastal boundary layer flows is conducted using an oscillating water tunnel for flow generations and a Particle Image Velocimetry system for velocity measurements. Tests are performed for sinusoidal, Stokes and forward-leaning waves over three fixed bottom roughness configurations, i.e. smooth, “sandpaper” and ceramic-marble bottoms. The experimental results suggest that the logarithmic profile can accurately represent the boundary layer flows in the very near-bottom region, so the log-profile fitting analysis can give highly accurate determinations of the theoretical bottom location and the bottom roughness. The first-harmonic velocities of both sinusoidal and nonlinear waves, as well as the second-harmonic velocities of nonlinear waves, exhibit similar patterns of vertical variation. Two dimensionless characteristic boundary layer thicknesses, the elevation of 1% velocity deficit and the elevation of maximum amplitude, are found to have power-law dependencies on the relative roughness for rough bottom tests. A weak boundary layer streaming embedded in nonlinear waves and a small but meaningful third-harmonic velocity embedded in sinusoidal waves are observed. They can be only explained by the effect of a time-varying turbulent eddy viscosity. The measured period-averaged vertical velocities suggest the presence of Prandtl's secondary flows of the second kind in the test channel. Among the three methods to infer bottom shear stress from velocity measurements, the Reynolds stress method underestimates shear stress due to missed turbulent eddies, and the momentum integral method also significantly underestimates bottom shear stress for rough bottom tests due to secondary flows, so only the log-profile fitting method is considered to yield the correct estimate. The obtained bottom shear stresses are analyzed to give the maximum and the first three harmonics, and the results are used to validate some existing theoretical models.     

Numerical Simulation of the Vortex-Induced Vibration of A Curved Flexible Riser in Shear Flow

A series of fully three-dimensional(3 D) numerical simulations of flow past a free-to-oscillate curved flexible riser in shear flow were conducted at Reynolds number of 185–1015. The numerical results obtained by the two-way fluid–structure interaction(FSI) simulations are in good agreement with the experimental results reported in the earlier study. It is further found that the frequency transition is out of phase not only in the inline(IL) and crossflow(CF) directions but also along the span direction. The mode competition leads to the non-zero nodes of the rootmean-square(RMS) amplitude and the relatively chaotic trajectories. The fluid–structure interaction is to some extent reflected by the transverse velocity of the ambient fluid, which reaches the maximum value when the riser reaches the equilibrium position. Moreover, the local maximum transverse velocities occur at the peak CF amplitudes, and the values are relatively large when the vibration is in the resonance regions. The 3 D vortex columns are shed nearly parallel to the axis of the curved flexible riser. As the local Reynolds number increases from 0 at the bottom of the riser to the maximum value at the top, the wake undergoes a transition from a two-dimensional structure to a 3 D one. More irregular small-scale vortices appeared at the wake region of the riser, undergoing large amplitude responses.     

Computation of Viscous Uniform and Shear Flow over A Circular Cylinder by A Finite Element Method

The incompressible viscous uniform and shear flow past a circular cylinder is studied. The two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations are solved by a finite element method. The governing equations are discretized by a weighted residual method in space. The stable three-step scheme is applied to the momentum equations in the time integration. The numerical model is firstly applied to the computation of the lid-driven cavity flow for its validation. The computed results agree well with the measured data and other numerical results. Then, it is used to simulate the viscous uniform and shear flow over a circular cylinder for Reynolds numbers from lO0 to lO00. The transient time interval before the vortex shedding occurs is shortened considerably by introduction of artificial perturbation. The computed Strouhal number, drag and lift coefficients agree well with the experimental data. The computation shows that the finite element model can be successfully applied to the viscous flow problem.     

Spatial and temporal variation of picoplanktic cyanobacteria population in a density stratified estuary,and the introduction of a cellular gradient number

Spatial and temporal variations in the distribution of the marine picoplanktic cyanobacteria population and mixing conditions were found in the Ebro River estuary outflow to the Mediterranean Sea in Spain. Six sampling surveys were undertaken between July 1999 and February 2000 for distances up to 15 km from the river mouth. Measurements were taken of flow velocity, salinity, temperature, depth and picocyanobacteria (PCB) abundances. Gradient Richardson (Rig) and Reynolds (Re) numbers were determined to evaluate hydrodynamics. In summer, large values of Rig arise from the small flow rates, and small values of velocity shear between the surface fresh water layer and the bottom saline layer; conversely, in winter the large flow rates and attendant large velocity shears between the layers give rise to small values of Rig. Flow conditions in the fall are an intermediate case between the summer and winter cases. Vertical abundance distributions were resolved through the river water, interfacial region, and the bottom salt wedge; longitudinal gradients of PCB abundances were also resolved. Seasonal differences in the PCB abundance values were observed. Analysis of cell numbers (C) showed that the variable dC/dS, the dependence of cell number upon salinity gradient (dS) was critical. A non-dimensional number; the cellular gradient number (Cg) is introduced. Cg has useful biological interpretations that can potentially be included in ecological modeling. For example, Cg = 1 pertains to perfect adaptability of the organism to adjust to changing environmental conditions, whereas Cg = 0 describes total mortality. For a system with strong advection there is insufficient time for cells to adapt to the changing environment, and so those cell counts are unchanged. This is the case for the Ebro estuary in winter as advection of salinity (and hence PCB abundance) dominates the other loss processes for large flow rates.     

Laboratory observation of boundary layer flow under spilling breakers in surf zone using particle image velocimetry

A boundary layer flow under spilling breakers in a laboratory surf zone with a smooth bottom is investigated using a high resolution particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique. By cross-correlating the images, oscillatory velocity profiles within a viscous boundary layer of O(1) mm in thickness are resolved over ten points. Using PIV measurements taken for an earlier study and the present study, flow properties in the wave bottom boundary layer (WBBL) over the laboratory surf zone are obtained, including the mean velocities, turbulence intensity, Reynolds stresses, and intermittency of coherent events. The data are then used to estimate the boundary layer thickness, phase variation, and bottom shear stress. It is found that while the time averaged mass transport inside the WBBL is onshore in the outer surf zone, it changes to offshore in the inner surf zone. The zero Eulerian mass transport occurs at h/h_b ≈ 0.92 in the outer surf zone. The maximum overshoot of the streamwise velocity and boundary layer thickness are not constant across the surf zone. The bottom shear stress is mainly contributed by the viscous stress through mean velocity gradient while the Reynolds stress is small and negligible. The turbulence level is higher in the inner surf zone than that in the outer surf zone, although only a slight increase of turbulent intensity is observed inside the WBBL from the outer surf zone to the inner surf zone. The variation of phase inside and outside the WBBL was examined through the spatial velocity distribution. It is found the phase lead is not constant and its value is significantly smaller than previous thought. By analyzing instantaneous velocity and vorticity fields, a remarkable number of intermittent turbulent eddies are observed to penetrate into the WBBL in the inner surf zone. The size of the observed large eddies is about 0.11 to 0.16 times the local water depth. Its energy spectra follow the − 5/3 slope in the inertial subrange and decay exponentially in the dissipation subrange.