以海浪波要素表示的外频谱形式

孙孕等（１９９４）提出了外频谱的概念,并推导出外频谱的理论形式,但其控制参量是由内频谱导出的,不便于实际应用,通过对实测海浪数据的分析,得到了控制外频谱的３个和内频谱有关的参量与波浪要素之间的关系,进而将外频谱表示以有效波高和有效波周期作为控制参量的形式,应用实测资料将本文得到的外频谱形式与理论外频谱进行了比较,发现二者符合良好。     

The distribution of brachyuran crustacean megalopae in the waters of the York river, lower Chesapeake Bay and adjacent shelf: Implications for recruitment

Vertical and horizontal distributions are described for megalopae of 11 brachyuran taxa common to the lower Chesapeake Bay and adjacent shelf. Three distribution patterns are apparent from horizontal distribution.

1. (1) More than 75% of the megalopae of estuarine adults, such as Hexapanopeus angustifrons, Neopanope sayi, Panopeus herbstii, Rhithropanopeus harrisii and Pinnotheres ostreum, are retained in estuarine waters.

2. (2) The megalopae of three estuarine taxa, Callinectes sapidus, Uca spp. and Pinnixa sp., are most abundant on the shelf.

3. (3) More than 90% of the megalopae of the shelf species, Portunus sp., Cancer irroratus and Libinia spp. remained in shelf waters.

Vertical distributions indicate the megalopae of a majority of estuarine crabs are epibenthic when waters are stratified. Exceptions include the megalopae of both Rhithropanopeus which are found slightly shallower in well mixed waters and Callinectes sapidus which are generally most abundant in the neuston. The megalopae of two shelf species, Portunus sp. and Cancer irroratus, reach highest densities in surface waters, while those of Libinia spp. are common in the epibenthos.Megalopal distributions analyzed with respect to water column stratification show megalopae never reached highest densities within the layer of the pycnocline. The megalopae of five species show significant shifts in vertical distributions between stratified and homogeneous water columns.     

Maneuvering performance of high-speed ships with effect of roll motion

Equations of yaw, sway, roll and rudder motions are formulated to represent realistic maneuvering behavior of high-speed ships such as destroyers. Important coupling terms between yaw, sway, roll and rudder were included on the basis of recent captive model test results of a high-speed ship. A series of computer runs was made by using equations of yaw, sway, roll and rudder motions. Results indicate substantial coupling effects between yaw, roll, and rudder, which introduce changes in maneuvering characteristics and reduce course stability in high-speed operation. These effects together with relatively small GM (which is typical for certain high-speed ships) produce large rolling motions in a seaway as frequently observed in actual operations. Results of digital simulations and captive model tests clearly indicate the major contributing factors to such excessive rolling motions at sea.     

Applications of the Mild-Slope Equation to Tidal Computations in the Taiwan Strait

Employing harmonic analysis of tidal data in the Taiwan Strait, the cross-strait tidal characteristics are completely illustrated. Based on the two dimensional mild-slope equation which can be reduced to the shallow-water wave equation, a finite element model (Tsay et al., 1989) is applied to investigate the characteristics of tides in the Taiwan Strait. The co-range and equi-phase charts of major tidal constituents, such as M₂, S₂, N₂, and K₁, are reproduced. Anomalous amplification of semidiurnal tides in the Taiwan Strait is verified. With rotation effects neglected and by applying a non-reflective condition on the open boundaries, the numerical results of phase-lag and co-range distributions show very good agreement with observed data for semidiurnal tides in the Taiwan Strait. Due to crude representation of the topography at two ends along the China coast, computed tidal distributions deviate from the observations. However, both computed amplitudes and phase-lags compare very well with observed data along the central half of the China coast.     

Regional variation in distribution pattern, population structure and growth rates of Meganyctiphanes norvegica and Thysanoessa longicaudata in the Irminger Sea, North Atlantic

Euphausiids are a key component of the northern North Atlantic marine ecosystem and Meganyctiphanes norvegica and Thysanoessa longicaudata are dominant both numerically and in terms of biomass. The Irminger Sea is remote and experiences often-hostile weather conditions. Consequently, few studies have been conducted there, and detailed information on the seasonal distribution, abundance and growth of euphausiids is limited. Here we explore patterns of abundance and spatial and temporal variation in length–frequency distribution in order to determine regional growth rates for both species in the Irminger Basin. Regional composite length–frequency distributions for spring, summer and winter were devised by aggregating discrete net haul data according to the results of a multivariate cluster analysis of length conducted on spring and summer net sample data. Three biologically distinct regions within the Irminger basin were apparent (Central Irminger Sea, Northern Irminger Sea and East of Greenland Shelf). These regions corresponded broadly with distinct physical zones within the basin. Modes in the composite length–frequency distributions were determined by fitting multiple normal distributions, and regional differences in growth were investigated by tracking modes between seasons. The results provide some evidence for regional variability in growth and population dynamics. The population structure and growth of M. norvegica was similar in the open ocean regions of the Northern and Central Irminger Basin, but different in the region around the East Greenland Shelf. There was a distinct absence of larger individuals (+I-group) in the open ocean regions compared to East Greenland Coast region, and growth rates were marginally higher. A similar pattern in population structure was also observed for T. longicaudata. Variability in growth and abundance are discussed in relation to prevailing environmental characteristics such as temperature and food availability.     

A numerical analysis of the three-dimensional rayleigh-benard convection spectra

The problem of the incompressible liquid convection between two horizontal planes heated on the underside is considered in the three-dimensional statement. The horizontal boundaries are assumed to be free of tangential stresses and isothermal. The calculated temporal spectrum of the temperature pulsations at the convection cell center at a supercriticality of 410 agrees well with the experimental measurement result. The Bolgiano-Obukhov (BO), k ^−11/5, k ⁻³, and k ⁻⁵, were obtain for the velocity pulsations. The Kolmogorov spectra k ^−5/3 and k ^−2.4 were obtained for the temperature pulsations. The presence of clearly identified spectra in the convective flow under study allows this process to be characterized as developed turbulence.     

Comparative dietary analysis of a recently described fish species complex (Galaxiidae) in a New Zealand river

The diets of several populations of four recently described species of galaxiid with allopatric distributions were examined in the Taieri River, New Zealand. Comparisons of available prey items and prey consumed were carried out to examine whether the distributions of the galaxiid species might be influenced by food availability and preferences. Seventy‐three prey categories were identified. The availability of four of these (Deleatidium, Oligochaeta, Elmidae larvae and adults) differed among the streams occupied by different galaxiid species. Three differences in the frequency of prey consumption (Deleatidium, Oxyethira, and Elmidae larvae) were detected. Despite differences in diet it was concluded that all four fish species were generalist predators of invertebrates with similar diets that were influenced mainly by prey availability. Furthermore prey availability was not considered responsible for the allopatric distribution of the four species, rather, spawning habitat availability, physical nature of the streams, and prior geological history of the Taieri catchment are considered the controlling influences on galaxiid distribution.     

Size‐Frequency Distributions of Miocene Micromorphic Brachiopods: Interpretation Tool for Population Dynamics

Abstract. The population dynamics of the fossil micromorphic brachiopods from shallow‐water Miocene deposits (calcareous clays to hard bottom of reef cavities) of the Roztocze Hills, south‐eastern Poland were studied by means of size‐frequency distributions. The following four species, which all also occur in the Recent Mediterranean, were used for the study: Megathiris detruncata (Gmelin), Argyrotheca cuneata (Risso), A. cordata (Risso) and Megerlia truncata (Linnaeus).
The size‐frequency distributions for 28 assemblages studied here vary widely, even within a single species, from right‐skewed, through bell‐shaped to polymodal; no left‐skewed distribution was noted.
The size‐frequency distributions with a large peak in the smaller size classes represent mostly assemblages collected from marly deposits. Those assemblages may be interpreted as inhabiting soft bottoms where small brachiopods are more vulnerable to burial by sediment and/or clogging effects on the lophophore apparatus.
The assemblages collected from the reef cavities produced bell‐shaped size‐frequency distributions or distributions with a relatively high percent of larger individuals. This is because the protected hard bottom cryptic habitats are characterised by lower juvenile mortality and enable the brachiopods to reach a larger size.
These results suggest that environmental factors play a crucial role in shaping brachiopod population structures, and that empty shells can be used to study population dynamics as well in Recent environments.     

Latitudinal and Vertical Distributions of Phytoplankton Absorption Spectra in the Central North Pacific during Spring 1994

Vertical changes of phytoplankton absorption spectra along 175°E from 48°N to 15°S were examined during spring 1994. The absorption spectra were analyzed using three different approaches; averaging the spectra within same oceanic areas, EOF analysis, and multiple regression analysis. Average spectra showed differences in five oceanic areas; subarctic, Kuroshio, subtropical surface, equatorial surface, and subtropical and equatorial subsurface areas. The distributions of the EOF mode of the variance of absorption spectra and of the pigments estimated by the multiple regression analysis indicated consistent differences of the spectra between those areas. Kuroshio water contains highest chlorophyll a concentrations and low chlorophyll-a-specific absorption spectra, and this may be caused by the package effect with large phytoplankton cell and by low concentrations of photo-protected carotenoids. Subtropical and equatorial subsurface water showed high absorption at 480 nm and indicated the effects of chlorophyll b. Absorption of the subsurface phytoplankton also showed a shift of the blue peak, possibly caused by the presence of divinyl-chlorophyll a. The consistency of the three different analytical methods indicates that the phytoplankton absorption includes significant information on pigment composition along a north-south vertical section of the central North Pacific.     

Squat effects on high speed craft in restricted waterways

The vessels considered here for the squat studies are a bulk carrier and an High Speed Craft (HSC). The bulk carrier of full form (C_B=0.81) is used for validation purpose and subsequently the numerical computations are performed for a High Speed Craft with fine hull form of C_B=0.467. A high speed ferry, with LCB and LCF quite aft of midship is considered for squat study. For a vessel speed of above 6.0 knots and for a waterway width greater than the vessel length there appears to be a sudden increase in sinkage at the stern accompanied by a large value of bow emergence. It could be seen that the speed of the vessel has a much greater influence on the sinkage and trim of the vessel than the waterway restrictions.     

A comparison of two spectral wave models in the Southern California Bight

Two models, a spectral refraction model (Longuet-Higgins) and a parabolic equation method (PEM) refraction-diffraction model (Kirby), are used to simulate the propagation of surface gravity waves across the Southern California Bight. The Bight contains numerous offshore islands and shoals and is significantly larger (≈ 300 km by 300 km) than regions typically studied with these models. The effects of complex bathymetry on the transformation of incident wave directional spectra, S₀(f,θ₀), which are very narrow in both frequency and direction are difficult to model accurately. As S₀(f,θ₀) becomes broader in both dimensions, agreement between the models improves and the spectra predicted at coastal sites become less sensitive to errors in the bathymetry grid, to tidal changes in the mean water depth, and to uncertainty in S₀(f,θ₀) itself. The smoothing associated with even relatively narrow (0.01 Hz-5° bandwidth) S₀(f,θ₀) is usually sufficient to bring the model predictions of shallow water energy into at least qualitative agreement. However, neither model is accurate at highly sheltered sites. The importance of diffraction degrades the predictions of the refraction model, and a positive bias [O (10%) of the deep ocean energy] in the refraction-diffraction model estimates, believed to stem from numerical “noise” (Kirby), may be comparable to the low wave energy. The best agreement between the predicted spectra generally occurs at moderately exposed locations in deeper waters within the Bight, away from shallow water diffractive effects and in the far-field of the islands. In these cases, the differences between the models are small, comparable to the errors caused by tidal fluctuations in water depth as waves propagate across the Bight. The accuracy of predicted energies at these sites is likely to be limited by the uncertainty in specifying S₀(f,θ₀).     

Last glacial sea-level changes and paleogeography of the Korea (Tsushima) Strait

The Korea (Tsushima) Strait is an important seaway through which the warm Tsushima Current flows into the East Sea (Japan Sea). A paleogeographic map constrained by a regional sea-level curve developed on the basis of a number of recent ¹⁴C radiocarbon dates suggests that the Korea Strait was not closed during the last glacial period. Rather, it was open as a channel-like seaway linking the western North Pacific and the East Sea. Some fraction of the paleo-Tsushima Current inflow presumably continued at that time through the Korea Strait. The activity of the paleo-Tsushima Current is evidenced by the distribution pattern of river-derived lowstand deposits, consisting of a beach/shoreface complex and lowstand deltaic wedges. Received: 16 April 1999 / Revision accepted: 25 February 2000     

THE STRUCTURE AND HEAT BUDGETS OF LARGE-SCALE DISTURBANCES OVER THE EQUATORIAL TROUGH REGION OF THE WESTERN PACIFIC

The average vertical distribution of equivalent potential temperature, horizontal divergerce, relative vorticity and vertical velocity overthe observation area were computed using 6-days NAVAID wind data from the R/V Shijian and R/V Xiangyanghong 09 during FGGE (the First GARP Global Experiment) and upper air sounding data of two island stations within the same period. Yanai's method was used to compute the vertical distributions of the apparent heat source, apparent moisture sink and total eddy heat flux. Satellite cloud photographs and surface meteorological measurements were used to subdivide the six days of observation into three disturbed days and three undisturbed or trade days. This paper describes the large-scale structure and heat budgets in the disturbed and trade wind periods and compared them with those of the trade wind regions of the Atlantic. Some interesting results of the structure and heat budgets of large-scale disturbances over the equatorial trough region in the western Pacific are     

Parameters of JONSWAP spectral model for surface gravity waves—II. Predictability from real data

Monte Carlo simulation of wave spectra was carried out to provide an assessment of JONSWAP spectral model and parameters. The simulation method is found to be satisfactory because (a) it excludes the spectral variability due to geophysical factors from the sampling errors in the spectral estimates and the statistical uncertainty in determining the model parameters; and (b) the simulated spectra can represent ideal spectral estimates where the sampling errors have been minimized by increasing the degrees of freedom of the spectra. The latter (b) allows both the magnitude of sampling errors to be evaluated and errors due to statistical uncertainty to be isolated. Thus, the stimulation study provides a useful error analysis to assess the JONSWAP spectral model and parameters. For instance, it is found from the results that the sampling errors could be as high as 20% while errors due to uncertainty in determining the model parameter could be as high as 17%. However, the overall errors may be reduced to the minimum of approx. 15% if the simulated spectra have 80 degrees of freedom and constant values of σ_a and σ_b i.e. σ_a = 0.07 and σ_b = 0.09. This implies that the maximum accuracy of 85% may be achieved in JONSWAP spectral model even though the α parameter has been underestimated by about 1.5%. The overestimated values of γ might come from the underestimated α and the biased φ_m estimator caused by the statistical uncertainty in the presence of a sharp spectral peak. Although the scale parameters (α and φ_m) exhibit smaller errors and variability than the shape parameters (ψ, σ_a and σ_b), they are more sensitive to the degrees of freedom of the spectra and their estimators are not better than the estimators of shape parameters. The simulation experiments have also shown that simulated spectra at 20–40 degrees of freedom contain a substantial amount of sampling errors. Therefore, the measured wave spectra at the same degrees of freedom (20–40) are not suitable and should not be used for evaluating the accuracy of any wave spectral model.     

Three-dimensional structure of tidal current in the East China Sea and the Yellow Sea

A three-dimensional tidal current model is developed and applied to the East China Sea (ECS), the Yellow Sea and the Bohai Sea. The model well reproduces the major four tides, namely M₂, S₂, K₁ and O₁ tides, and their currents. The horizontal distributions of the major four tidal currents are the same as those calculated by the horizontal two-dimensional models. With its high resolutions in the horizontal (12.5 km) and the vertical (20 layers), the model is used to investigate the vertical distributions of tidal current. Four vertical eddy viscosity models are used in the numerical experiments. As the tidal current becomes strong, its vertical shear becomes large and its vertical profile becomes sensitive to the vertical eddy viscosity. As a conclusion, the HU (a) model (Davieset al., 1997), which relates the vertical eddy viscosity to the water depth and depth mean velocity, gives the closest results to the observed data. The reproduction of the amphidromic point of M₂ tide in Liaodong Bay is discussed and it is concluded that it depends on the bottom friction stress. The model reproduces a unique vertical profile of tidal current in the Yellow Sea, which is also found in the observed data. The reason for the reproduction of such a unique profile in the model is investigated.     

Outer wave number spectrum and statistical distribution of apparent wave number vector

Based on the ray theory and Longuet-Higgins’s linear model of sea waves, the joint distribution of wave envelope and apparent wave number vector is established. From the joint distribution, we define a new concept, namely the outer wave number spectrum, to describe the outer characteristics of ocean waves. The analytical form of the outer wave number spectrum, the probability distributions of the apparent wave number vector and its components are then derived. The outer wave number spectrum is compared with the inner wave number spectrum for the average status of wind-wave development corresponding to a peakness factor P = 3. Discussions on the similarity and difference between the outer wave number spectrum and inner one are also presented in the paper.     

西北太平洋气候和海洋环境变化对柔鱼空间分布的影响

Ommastrephes bartramii is an ecologically dependent species and has great commercial values among the AsiaPacific countries. This squid widely inhabits the North Pacific, one of the most dynamic marine environments in the world, subjecting to multi-scale climatic events such as the Pacific Decadal Oscillation(PDO). Commercial fishery data from the Chinese squid-jigging fleets during 1995–2011 are used to evaluate the influences of climatic and oceanic environmental variations on the spatial distribution of O. bartramii. Significant interannual and seasonal variability are observed in the longitudinal and latitudinal gravity centers(LONG and LATG) of fishing ground of O. bartramii. The LATG mainly occurred in the waters with the suitable ranges of environmental variables estimated by the generalized additive model. The apparent north-south spatial shift in the annual LATG appeares to be associated with the PDO phenomenon and is closely related to the sea surface temperature(SST)and sea surface height(SSH) on the fishing ground, whereas the mixed layer depth(MLD) might contribute limited impacts to the distribution pattern of O. bartramii. The warm PDO regimes tend to yield cold SST and low SSH, resulting in a southward shift of LATG, while the cold PDO phases provid warm SST and elevated SSH,resulting in a northward shift of LATG. A regression model is developed to help understand and predict the fishing ground distributions of O. bartramii and improve the fishery management.     

The response of a hydrofoil to wave orbital velocity fields

For study purposes, a simplified model of a hydrofoil craft is constructed with the assumption that it has:

• heave only motion;

• no surface proximity effect on the foil;

• no foil broaching.

It is then shown that a fully submerged hydrofoil, mounted at the bottom of rigid struts, can transmit large vertical force fluctuations to the hull, even in an idealized sinusoidal seaway because of the orbital velocity field in the water. But if the foil support struts are hinged, inclined aft and resiliently supported, so that the hydrofoil can swing about the strut's pivot in response to the changes in local water velocity, then the vertical accelerations transmitted to the hull are reduced. The more the strut is inclined to the vertical, the smaller are the accelerations transmitted to the hull. A hinged strut whose equilibrium angle (for 1 g) is 60° to the vertical can reduce the vertical accelerations by an order of magnitude. It also has two other practical advantages. The strut(s) and foil will ride up towards horizontal during the rare but inevitable impacts with large marine objects (such as whales or flotsam) and during groundings. And when they encounter a region of water moving rapidly downward (which can cause a conventional fully submerged hydrofoil to experience a violent hull impact on the water) they move in such a way as to maintain a roughly constant lift force on the hull, so that there is negligible hull motion in heave.