Numerical Modeling of Suspended Sediment Transport in the Gulf of Kachchh Including Kandla Creek, West Coast of India

A depth-averaged numerical model has been developed to study tidal circulation and suspended sediment transport in the Gulf of Kachchh including Kandla creek, west coast of India. The resolution of the model is taken as 750 m × 750 m, which is found to be adequate for the gulf region. However, this resolution could not produce the realistic circulation pattern and suspended sediment concentration in the Kandla creek region. There is a major seaport at Kandla which serves as the sea gate to northwest India. Therefore, a 2-D fine resolution (75 m × 75 m) model for Kandla creek has been developed and coupled with the coarser gulf model to compute the flow features in the creek region. The model dynamics and basic formulation remain the same for both the gulf model and the creek model. The models are barotropic, based on shallow water equations, and neglect horizontal diffusion and wind stress terms in the momentum equations. The models are fully nonlinear and use a semiexplicit finite difference scheme to solve mass, momentum, and advection-diffusion equations in a horizontal plane. The tide in the gulf is represented in the model by the semidiurnal M₂ constituent mainly. In this study, no fresh water discharge conditions have been considered so the results are appropriate for the dry season. Numerical experiments are carried out to study the circulation and suspended sediment concentrations in the gulf and the creek regions. The computed results are validated with the available observations.     

Estimation of Sediment Transport with An in-situ Acoustic Retrieval Algorithm in the High-Turbidity Changjiang Estuary, China

A comprehensive acoustic retrieval algorithm to investigate suspended sediment is presented with the combined validations of Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) and Optical Backscattering Sensor (OBS) monitoring along seven cross-channel sections in the high-turbidity North Passage of the Changjiang Estuary, China. The realistic water conditions, horizontal and vertical salinities, and grain size of the suspended sediment are considered in the retrieval algorithm. Relations between net volume scattering of sound attenuation (Sv) due to sediments and ADCP echo intensity (E) were obtained with reasonable accuracy after applying the linear regression method. In the river mouth, an intensive vertical stratification and horizontal inhomogeneity were found, with a higher concentration of sediment in the North Passage and a lower concentration in the North Channel and South Passage. Additionally, The North Passage is characterized by higher sediment concentration in the middle region and lower concentration in the entrance and outlet areas. The maximum sediment flux rate, occurred in the middle region, could reach 6.3×105 and 1.5×105 t/h during the spring and neap tide, respectively. Retrieved sediment fluxes in the middle region are significantly larger than that in the upstream and downstream region. This strong sediment imbalance along the main channel indicates potential secondary sediment supply from southern Jiuduansha Shoals.     

江苏大丰海岸碱蓬滩潮沟及滩面的沉积动力特征

根据2002年7月在江苏大丰碱蓬滩潮沟观测的水文、悬沙、底质等资料,分析了潮沟的输水、输沙特征及悬沙和底质在粒径组成上的关系,结果表明,潮沟在流速、悬沙浓度、输水、悬沙输运、底质活动性等方面具有明显的涨落潮不对称.滩面归槽水占潮沟落潮输水量的33%,由此造成的悬沙输运量占潮沟落潮悬沙输运量的20%,这是导致潮沟涨落潮输水输沙不对称的主要因素.在一个潮周期中潮沟的净输水、净悬沙输运方向与滩面相反,指向落潮方向.悬沙和底质组成以粉砂和黏土为主,潮沟和滩面的悬沙粒径组成差别很小.悬沙是滩面底质的主要物质来源,两者在粒径组成上存在着必然联系,沉积物粒径与该粒级在底质中的含量与在悬沙中的含量之比具有明显的幂函数关系.     

Analysis of some key parametrizations in a beach profile morphodynamical model

A numerical process-based model to forecast beach profile morphodynamics has been developed. In the present paper, an analysis of various modelling approaches and key parametrizations involved in the estimation of the wave-driven current and the suspended sediment concentration is carried out.Several resolution techniques for the 1DV horizontal (i.e., in the x-direction perpendicular to coastline) momentum equation governing the Mean Horizontal Velocity (MHV) are analysed. In the first kind of techniques, the mean horizontal velocity is computed from the momentum equation, whereas the Mean Water Level (MWL) is computed using a parametrization of the depth-averaged momentum equation. Two boundary or integral conditions are thus needed. In the second kind, both mean horizontal velocity and mean water level gradient in the x-direction are the unknowns of the momentum equation, thus, three boundary or integral conditions are needed. Various additional conditions are discussed. We show that using a technique of the first kind is equivalent to imposing the difference between the surface and the bottom shear stresses in the 1D vertical equation. Both techniques lead to results that are in good agreement with the Delta Flume experimental data, provided the Stokes drift flow discharge is imposed as an additional condition. The influence of the breaking roller model and of the turbulent viscosity parametrization are also analysed.Suspended sediment transport by the mean current and wave-induced bedload transport are taken into account in the sediment flux. Three turbulent diffusivity parametrizations are compared for suspended sediment concentration estimations. A linear profile for the turbulent diffusivity taking into account the wave bottom shear stress and the surface wave breaking turbulence production is shown to give the best results. Using experimental data, we put forward the poor estimation of the bottom sediment concentration given by the three implemented parametrizations. We thus propose a new parametrization relying on a Shields parameter based on the breaking roller induced surface shear stress. Using this new parametrization, the bottom profile used in the tests keeps its two bars which disappear otherwise. However, the morphodynamical model still overestimates the bars offshore motion, a bias already observed in other models.     

Characterization of the Seasonal Circulation Patterns and Its Application on Oil Spill Transport in the Northwestern Continental Shelf of India

We implemented the Princeton Ocean Model to study the seasonal circulation patterns in the Gulf of Khambhat and surrounding oceans on the northwestern continental shelf of India. Simulated currents are used in General NOAA Operational Modeling Environment to track a past oil spill event in this region. The model's performance is evaluated against the Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) and in situ measurements. Mean currents, computed by subtracting tidal components from the simulated currents, are used together with satellite images of Chlorophyll-a to describe spatial patterns of the circulation. Mean-flow patterns inside the gulf are characterized with strong along-channel flow during southwest monsoon and spring seasons, which are weak during winter and autumn seasons. On the proximity of the gulf mouth currents are northwestward throughout the year except the southwest monsoon when the circulations are southwestward. Coastal boundary currents parallel to the 60 m isobath are prominent during the inter-monsoon and weak during the monsoon periods. Slope currents, near the shelf-break, are strong during southwest monsoon and spring periods. Numerical experiments suggest that ocean current is the main driver of the net transport of spilled oil in this region and other factors such as direct wind drift play negligible role.     

三沙湾夏季底边界层动力过程及悬沙输运特征

基于2018年8月福建三沙湾湾内外共两个定点站位的船基和座底三脚架观测数据,研究了三沙湾底边界动力过程及悬沙输运特征。结果表明,三沙湾湾内湾外两个站位均表现出涨落潮历时相近但涨落潮流速明显不对称的现象,即湾内涨潮流速大于落潮流速,湾外则相反。湾内水体受淡水输入影响较大,表现出落潮期间显著的温盐层化,而涨潮期间水体混合良好;湾外水体受淡水影响不明显,表现为水体温度主导的层化。通过对底边界层动力过程的分析表明,湾内（距底0.75 m）、湾外（距底0.50 m）站位底边界层的平均摩阻流速分别是0.016 m/s、0.013 m/s,且两个站位拖曳系数基本相等（2.03×10-3）,表明在相同流速下湾内站位的底部切应力更大,近底沉积物再悬浮和搬运相对湾外站位更为显著。因此观测期间悬沙浓度最大值出现在湾内站位,为109 mg/L,且悬沙在垂向上的分布可达上层水体;湾外站位悬沙浓度更低,并且底部悬浮泥沙仅能影响至距底5 m的水体。悬沙通量机制分解结果表明,三沙湾夏季的潮周期单宽悬沙从湾外向湾内方向净输运,湾内站位向湾内方向净输运74.88 g/(m·s),平流输沙占主导作用,贡献率41.7%;湾外站位向湾内方向净输运10.57 g/(m·s),主要受平流输沙和垂向净环流的控制,贡献率94.9%     

Intercomparison of High-Resolution Bay of Bengal Circulation Models Forced with Different Winds

The high-resolution Bay of Bengal circulation modeling in the region [80E–95E; 5N–22N] is performed with a horizontal resolution of 10 km and the highest vertical resolution of 5 m near the surface. The intercomparison experiments, with ocean model forced with the near-surface (1) National Centers for Environmental Prediction (NCEP) reanalysis winds and (2) blended seawinds data (a combination of remotely sensed scatterometer and in situ observations) are carried out for a period of 17 years during 1998–2014. The seasonal variability of the realistically simulated surface hydrographic (temperature and salinity) and circulation (currents) variables from both the experiments is compared and contrasted with the observational data. The mixed layer depth seasonal variability of the region is also studied. The mesoscale features of currents at 50 and 100 m are also studied. The volume transport across different sections in the Bay of Bengal is computed and its relation with summer monsoon rainfall is investigated. The results suggest that there is no real advantage of using high-resolution blended seawinds over the much coarser NCEP reanalysis winds.     

夏季浙江沿岸陆架区泥沙输运机制

基于2014年夏季浙江沿岸陆架区的水文、泥沙、底质沉积物等实测资料,运用物质通量分析方法和Gao-Collins粒径趋势分析法,探讨了泥沙的输运通量、输运方向、动力机制及净输运趋势。夏季,近岸含沙量规律性较强,由西至东逐渐降低,由南至北逐渐升高,且与潮流有非常好的对应关系,呈现出明显的潮周期变化特征。研究区净悬沙通量自岸向外海迅速变小,悬沙输运中平流输运占主导地位,其次是垂向净环流对悬沙输运的影响,近岸海域表现为向海输沙,30 m以深海域表现为东北向输沙,同时台湾暖流的屏障作用也影响了悬沙向海扩散。粒径趋势分析显示浙江沿岸陆架表层沉积物的长期输运机制为由东北向西南输运,在流系以及海底地形的影响下,中部海域出现粒径趋势较弱的沉积中心。而在夏季,悬浮泥沙主要为平行岸线向东北输运,估算每天进入研究海域的净悬浮泥沙约为1.9×106 t。     

Upper Ocean Four-Dimensional Variational Data Assimilation in the Arabian Sea and Bay of Bengal

A regional ocean circulation model with four-dimensional variational data assimilation scheme is configured to study the ocean state of the Indian Ocean region (65°E–95°E; 5°N–20°N) covering the Arabian Sea (AS) and Bay of Bengal (BoB). The state estimation setup uses 10 km horizontal resolution and 5 m vertical resolution in the upper ocean. The in-situ temperature and salinity, satellite-derived observations of sea surface height, and blended (in-situ and satellite-derived) observations of sea surface temperature alongwith their associated uncertainties are used for data assimilation with the regionally configured ocean model. The ocean state estimation is carried out for 61 days (1 June to 31 July 2013). The assimilated fields are closer to observations compared to other global state estimates. The mixed layer depth (MLD) of the region shows deepening during the period of assimilation with AS showing higher MLD compared to the BoB. An empirical forecast equation is derived for the prediction of MLD using the air–sea forcing variables as predictors. The surface and sub-surface (50 m) heat and salt budget tendencies of the region are also investigated. It is found that at the sub-surface, only the advection and diffusion temperature and salt tendencies are important.     

潮沟系统水沙输运研究——以长江口崇明东滩为例

本研究以崇明东滩2015年4月实测潮间带水沙数据为基础,分析了潮沟、盐沼及光滩的水沙特征,重点研究了潮沟系统及邻近潮滩潮周期内悬沙通量情况。结果表明:（1）潮沟表层沉积物比潮滩细,二者平均中值粒径分别为21.7 μm和33.0 μm,悬沙粒径由海向陆逐渐变小;（2）大、小潮沟潮周期内潮流均以往复流为主,垂向平均流速分别为15.4 cm/s和34.6 cm/s;盐沼界和光滩则以旋转流为主,平均流速分别为11.3 cm/s和28.9 cm/s;（3）潮沟中的高悬沙浓度出现在涨潮初期,最大可达7.5 kg/m3,而潮滩高悬沙浓度则出现在潮落潮中期和高水位时刻;大、小潮沟和盐沼界站涨潮阶段平均悬沙浓度大于落潮阶段,光滩站则相反。潮沟悬沙主要来自邻近水域,而潮滩悬沙则与滩面表层沉积物密切相关;（4）潮沟在潮周期内净输沙方向均指向滩地,大潮沟潮周期单宽净输沙量可达4.0 t/m;盐沼界处垂直岸线和沿岸输沙强度相近,净输沙由海向陆,潮周期离岸输沙强度为1.0 t/m;光滩沿岸输沙强度远大于垂直岸线输沙,光滩净输沙由陆向海。研究揭示了潮间带潮沟系统的强供沙能力以及研究区域光滩冲蚀,盐沼植被带淤积的动力地貌过程。     

渤、黄、东海海流和潮汐共同作用下的悬浮物输运、沉积及其季节变化

渤、黄、东海是一个水动力状况相当复杂的半封闭宽陆架海，本海区悬浮颗粒物含量高，季节变化明显，影响范围广，是世界上悬浮物含量最高的海域之一。对于该海域悬浮物的输运沉积过程、分布规律以及底质分布等中外学者均进行过比较深入的研究(秦蕴珊，1963； Honjo et al.，1974；Milliman et al.，1985，1986；秦蕴珊等，1987，1989；杨作升等，1992；Li et al.，1997；孙效功等，2000；雷坤等，2001)。然而，以往的研究大都基于实际海洋调查资料，由于受实测资料在时间和空间覆盖范围上的限制，很难从整体上把握渤、黄、东海陆架区悬浮物输运的时间和空间变化规律。数值模拟的方法能很好地克服上述局限，已有学者从不同角度对渤、黄、东海的某些海域的悬浮物进行了模拟研究。 董礼先等(1989)首先模拟了在二维潮流场作用下，黄、渤海推移质和悬移质的输运状况，得出潮流作用下海底的冲淤状况。Graber等(1989)利用有限水深的风浪模型、模拟了风浪对悬浮物输运、沉积的作用。Yanagi等(1995)用拉格朗日粒子追踪方法对整个东中国海冬季悬浮物的输运、沉积过程进行了计算。江文胜等(2000，2001)考虑了风等气象要素、外海传入的潮波的作用、悬浮物的沉降及再悬浮机制，对渤海中悬浮物的浓度进行了数值模拟。 海洋环流、潮汐、潮流和波浪均对悬浮物的输运与沉积产生影响，尤其在中陆架和外陆架地区，环流对悬浮物的长期输运起决定性作用，因此以往仅针对潮流、风浪作用的模拟很不完整，其结果与实际情况的差别也会较大。其次，海水的流动处在不断变化之中，小到日变化、月变化，大到季节变化、年际变化，因此定常风场、定常温盐场的环流模拟，即诊断流场并不符合实际情形。本文将首先对渤、黄、东海月平均风场、温盐场作用下的环流场进行模拟，进而探讨环流以及潮汐、潮流共同作用下的悬浮物输运过程及其季节变化规律。     

A near-inertial current event in the homogeneous deep layer of the northern Sea of Japan during winter

Under strong surface wind forcing during winter, direct current observations in the northern Sea of Japan show the existence of strong near-inertial currents in the deep water that is characterized by the extremely homogeneous vertical structures of temperature and salinity. However, the mechanism generating internal waves in the deep water of the northern Sea of Japan has not been well understood. In this study, to clarify the dynamical link between the surface wind forcing and near-inertial currents in the deep water of the northern Sea of Japan, we drive a general circulation model taking into account realistic wind stress, ocean bottom and land topography. In the northern Sea of Japan, the numerical results show that vertically coherent horizontal currents with a speed of ~ 0.05 m s^?1 are excited throughout the homogeneous deep water. A two-layer model successfully reproduces the pattern of the horizontal current velocities shown by the general circulation model, indicating that internal waves emanate westward from the northwestern coast of Japan through coastal adjustment to the strong wind forcing event and, while propagating into the ocean interior, they excite evanescent near-inertial response throughout the lower layer below the interface.     

崇明东北潮滩泥沙输运过程的研究

潮滩泥沙的输运过程是河口近岸泥沙输运的重要组成部分,也是诊断潮滩侵蚀-淤积的重要动力指标,特别是在地貌演变过程显著的区域更具指示意义.本研究选择长江口崇明岛东北部潮滩,在2018年3月30日-4月10日进行三脚架多参数观测,获取了高分辨率的流速、含沙量等剖面数据,运用机制分解法分析了连续21个潮周期的泥沙输运过程.结果...     

A geomorphological seabed classification for the Weddell Sea,Antarctica

Sea floor morphology plays an important role in many scientific disciplines such as ecology, hydrology and sedimentology since geomorphic features can act as physical controls for e.g. species distribution, oceanographically flow-path estimations or sedimentation processes. In this study, we provide a terrain analysis of the Weddell Sea based on the 500 m × 500 m resolution bathymetry data provided by the mapping project IBCSO. Seventeen seabed classes are recognized at the sea floor based on a fine and broad scale Benthic Positioning Index calculation highlighting the diversity of the glacially carved shelf. Beside the morphology, slope, aspect, terrain rugosity and hillshade were calculated and supplied to the data archive PANGAEA. Applying zonal statistics to the geomorphic features identified unambiguously the shelf edge of the Weddell Sea with a width of 45–70 km and a mean depth of about 1200 m ranging from 270 m to 4300 m. A complex morphology of troughs, flat ridges, pinnacles, steep slopes, seamounts, outcrops, and narrow ridges, structures with approx. 5–7 km width, build an approx. 40–70 km long swath along the shelf edge. The study shows where scarps and depressions control the connection between shelf and abyssal and where high and low declination within the scarps e.g. occur. For evaluation purpose, 428 grain size samples were added to the seabed class map. The mean values of mud, sand and gravel of those samples falling into a single seabed class was calculated, respectively, and assigned to a sediment texture class according to a common sediment classification scheme.     

Variabilité du panache turbide de la Gironde par télédétection. Effets des facteurs climatiques

The Gironde estuary (France) discharges to the ocean an important amount of suspended particulate matter in the form of turbid plumes. The surface plume is more particularly studied from coastal oceanographic surveys and NOAA/AVHRR satellite data collected during a French programme of coastal oceanography (PNOC-Atlantic). The AVHRR reflectances are atmospherically corrected according to an algorithm based on the clear water concept. The comparison with suspended sediment concentrations are realised by direct and indirect calibrations. The correlations obtained show that at a same concentration the reflectance varies, probably because of varying particle (floc) size and composition. The shape and the surface measured from low resolution (4 km × 4 km) and high resolution (1 km × 1 km) AVHRR data are then compared to the forcings introduced by the fluvial output, the tide, neap and spring tide and the wind variations. The latter have an important effect on the orientation of the distal part of the turbid plume.     

秋季东海内陆架悬浮体分布特征

秋季是处于夏、冬季之交的过渡季节,夏季风减弱、冬季风增强的背景下海洋水文泥沙环境有独特特征,关于该时期悬浮体分布特征的研究较少.本文基于东海内陆架2016、2017与2018年秋季悬浮体及温盐数据,分析该海域秋季悬浮体浓度的水平和垂向分布特征.结果表明:悬浮体浓度近岸高于远岸,浓度等值线大致平行于等深线,近底层悬浮体浓...     

江苏弶港盐沼风车河潮沟地貌与动力演化

联合国环境署(1990)在题为“海相环境的状况”的报告中指出,世界人口约一半集中在海岸地区,因而这些地区人口压力巨大,同时受到污染、风暴潮、地面沉降的威胁,以及高地灌溉水资源枯竭的影响;在低地海岸、河滩和湿地,海平面的上升将会给沿岸城市的工农业生产及人民生活带来极其严重的后果。而盐沼-潮沟体系则是淤泥质海岸缓冲、削减波浪-潮流能量的重要地貌系统,对海岸的保护起着至关重要的作用。潮沟常常贯穿盐沼与泥坪(或沙坪),成为沟通盐沼-泥坪体系物质能量交换的纽带;在淤涨型淤泥质海岸上,细颗粒泥沙被涨潮流沿潮沟输送到盐沼上,结果使盐沼不断向海淤进。而当海平面上升时,盐沼-潮沟系统功能又发生改变,成为削减潮汐能量的“装置”。Pethick(1980,1992)研究了英国Norfolk盐沼潮沟水流的特征,并提出了流速的预报模型;Healey等(1981)在观测中发现了一些与模型不符的情况。本文从地貌和动力方面研究了江苏淤泥质海岸弶港盐沼风车河潮沟的地貌演变与动力演化的关系,以及水动力与地貌因素之间的相互响应机制。     

A coupled ice–ocean model for the Greenland,Iceland and Norwegian Seas

Simulations from a coupled ice–ocean model that highlight the importance of synoptic forcing on sea-ice dynamics are described. The ocean model is a non-hydrostatic primitive equation model coupled to a dynamic thermodynamic sea ice model. The ice modelling sensitivity study presented here is part of an ongoing research programme to define the role played by sea ice in the energy balance of the Greenland Sea. The different categories of sea ice found in the subpolar regions are simulated through the use of equations for thin ice, thick ice and the Marginal Ice Zone. A basin scale numerical model of the Greenland, Iceland and Norwegian Seas has a horizontal resolution of 20 km and a vertical grid spacing of 50 m. This resolution is adequate for resolving the mesoscale topographic structures known to control the circulation in this region. The spin-up reproduces the main features of the circulation, including the cyclonic gyres in the Norwegian and Greenland Basins and Iceland Plateau. Topographic steering of the flow is evident. The baroclinic Rossby radius of deformation is between 5 and 10 km so that the model is not eddy-resolving. The coupled ice–ocean model was run for a period of two weeks. The influence of horizontal resolution of the atmospheric model was tested by comparing simulations using six hourly wind fields from the ECMWF with those generated using six hourly fields from a HIRLAM, with horizontal resolutions of 1° and 0.18° respectively. The simulations show reasonable agreement with satellite ice compactness data and data of ice transports across sections at 79°N, 75°N and Denmark Strait.     

The process of sedimentation on the surface of a salt marsh

An unditched salt marsh-creek drainage basin (Holland Glade Marsh, Lewes, Delaware) has a sedimentation rate of 0·5 cm year^?1. During normal, storm-free conditions, the creek carries negligible amounts of sand and coarse silt. Of the material in the waters flooding the marsh surface, over 80% disappears from the floodwaters within 12 m of the creek. About one-half of the lost material is theoretically too fine to settle, even if flow were not turbulent; however, sediment found on Spartina stems can account for the loss.The quantity of suspended sediment that does reach the back marsh during these normal tides is inadequate to maintain the marsh surface against local sea level rise. This suspended sediment is also much finer than the deposited sediments. Additionally, remote sections of low marsh, sections flooded by only the highest spring tides, have 15–30 cm of highly inorganic marsh muds.This evidence indicates that normal tidal flooding does not produce sedimentation in Holland Glade. Study of the effects of two severe storms, of a frequency of once per year, suggests that such storms can deposit sufficient sediment to maintain the marsh.The actual deposition of fine-grained sediments (fine silt and clay) appears to result primarily from biological trapping rather than from settling. In addition, this study proposes that the total sedimentation on mature marshes results from a balance between tidal and storm sedimentation. Storms will control sediment supply and movement on micro- and meso-tidal marshes, and will have less influence on macro-tidal marshes.     

南极绕极流的经向输运

南极绕极流(ACC)是南大洋中最显著的流动，流量超过130×106m3/s (Nowlin et al.，1986)。传统认为，由于以东向运动为主的ACC的存在极大地阻碍了南大洋中上层的南北向物质和能量的交换，绕极流区的经向输运是非常小的。但是近些年的研究发现，穿过ACC的通量并不是可以忽略不计的，它对维持南极和亚南极区的动力和热力平衡起着重要作用，在全球气候系统中也有着深刻的影响(Doos et al.，1994)。