Long-Term Validation of Wave Height Measurements from Altimeters

Since July 1991, six altimeter missions have been launched successfully, and they have provided almost continuous wave height measurements for more than 12 years. Long-term series of wave height measurements are of major interest for climatology and oceanic wave modeling. Before using such data, the measurements have to be validated, and the homogeneity of the data from various satellites has to be checked. Significant wave height measurements from ERS, TOPEX/Poseidon, GEOSAT Follow-on, Jason-1 and ENVISAT altimeters are validated using cross-altimeter and buoy comparisons. Emphasis is put on the two recent missions Jason-1 and ENVISAT. Corrections for biases and trends are proposed for the six altimeters, allowing the generation of consistent and homogeneous data. Tests of these corrections are performed over global ocean simple statistics.     

Long-Term Validation of Wave Height Measurements from Altimeters

Since July 1991, six altimeter missions have been launched successfully, and they have provided almost continuous wave height measurements for more than 12 years. Long-term series of wave height measurements are of major interest for climatology and oceanic wave modeling. Before using such data, the measurements have to be validated, and the homogeneity of the data from various satellites has to be checked. Significant wave height measurements from ERS, TOPEX/Poseidon, GEOSAT Follow-on, Jason-1 and ENVISAT altimeters are validated using cross-altimeter and buoy comparisons. Emphasis is put on the two recent missions Jason-1 and ENVISAT. Corrections for biases and trends are proposed for the six altimeters, allowing the generation of consistent and homogeneous data. Tests of these corrections are performed over global ocean simple statistics.     

一种机载激光雷达海洋测深波形数据处理算法

双色机载激光雷达测深技术在海岸带水下地形测量方面具有明显的优势,测深数据的波形分解是其波形处理环节中的关键步骤。采用一种基于全局收敛LM(Levenberg Marquardt)算法的波形分解方法,通过综合分析近红外、浅水、深水通道的波形数据特点,设计了一种分层筛选策略并确定了合理的阈值,实现了水底和水面回波脉冲的准确检测。实测数据实验结果表明,该方法对实验区域获取的回波脉冲能够达到98%的有效检测率和87%的成功检测率。     

Inter-comparison of model-predicted wave heights with satellite altimeter measurements in the north Indian Ocean

A numerical model based on a wind-wave energy transport formulation of Toba is developed to generate hindcast wave height data for the equatorial and the north Indian Ocean, which is otherwise a data-sparse region. The intercomparison between model-predicted wave heights for three years (1987–1989) obtained utilising analysed surface wind fields' data, and model grid averaged GEOSAT Altimeter significant wave height data showed moderate match, particularly for H_S greater than 1 m.     

Estimation of extreme wave heights using GEOSAT measurements

Satellite technology has yielded a large database of global ocean wave heights which may be used for engineering applications. However, the sampling protocol used by the satellite leads to some difficulties in making use of these data for practical applications. These difficulties and techniques to estimate extreme wave heights using satellite measurements are discussed. Significant wave heights for a 50-year return period are estimated using GEOSAT measurements for several regions around North America. Techniques described here may be used for estimation of wave heights associated with any specified return interval in regions where buoy data are not readily available.     

Estimation of extreme wave heights using GEOSAT measurements

Satellite technology has yielded a large database of global ocean wave heights which may be used for engineering applications. However, the sampling protocol used by the satellite leads to some difficulties in making use of these data for practical applications. These difficulties and techniques to estimate extreme wave heights using satellite measurements are discussed. Significant wave heights for a 50-year return period are estimated using GEOSAT measurements for several regions around North America. Techniques described here may be used for estimation of wave heights associated with any specified return interval in regions where buoy data are not readily available.     

Satellite wave measurements for coastal engineering applications

Measurements from the GEOSAT, ERS-1 and 2 and Topex/Poseidon satellites have now accumulated to over 15 years of global ocean wave and wind data. Extraction of wave height, wind speed and wave period from the satellite altimeters and directional wave spectra from the synthetic aperture radars are reviewed along with recent validation and calibration efforts. Applications of the data to a variety of problems illustrate the potential of satellite wave measurements.     

Separation of regular waves by a transfer function method

This paper presents a transfer function method (TFM) which can separate a regular wave field into incident and reflected waves based on the linear wave theory. The TFM uses specific transfer functions and corresponding convolution integrals to separate time series data measured in a combined partial standing wave system into incident and reflected waves. After this separation, estimation of the reflection coefficient becomes very easy. All manipulations have been performed in time domain. Furthermore, this method does not involve the calculation of wave heights and/or phase differences. The present method is demonstrated through numerical sample and physical model experiments carried out in a wave flume. Compared with other methods, the TFM gives much better estimates of the incident wave heights for physical model experiments in this study.     

基于AIS信息校准的双频地波雷达的船只融合跟踪

高频地波雷达（HFSWR）和自动船只确认系统（AIS）是船只跟踪的重要传感器。高频地波雷达可以用来跟踪探测区域的所有船只,而AIS只能用来确认合作船只的信息。由于海杂波的干扰,使用单频率地波雷达的船只跟踪会淹没在布拉格峰值的盲区里,改变探测频率是克服这一缺点的有效手段。在这种背景下,我们提出一种基于AIS校准的双频雷达融合探测算法。因为不同频率的地波雷达测量与AIS的测量值存在系统误差,所以AIS信息可以用来估计和校准地波雷达的每个频率的系统误差。首先,将合作目标的点迹测量与地波雷达的点迹测量通过JVC分配算法进行点迹关联。从合作船只的点迹关联结果中,双频雷达的系统误差可以估计和校准。其次,基于校准的双频雷达数据,使用融合JPDA-UKF算法进行船只跟踪。通过真实探测的数据的实验结果显示所提算法可以实时跟踪船只,相比单频率跟踪可以进一步提高跟踪能力和跟踪精度。     

An inverse problem methodology for multiple parameter estimation in bend stiffeners

The flexible riser top connection is a critical region for lifetime assessment due to large tension/curvature variations and modeling uncertainties. The bend stiffener polyurethane mechanical response not only presents a nonlinear loading rate and temperature dependency but is also subjected to weather ageing during operation, which may affect its mechanical behavior over time. The top tension, employed for riser local cross-section stress calculation, is usually obtained from global dynamic analyses performed under selected environmental conditions, if direct measurement is not available. As a consequence, both the bend stiffener effect on the curvature distribution and the top tension time series present inherent uncertainties for riser lifetime (re)assessment. In the present work, a proposed monitoring approach composed by gyrometers installed along flexible riser/bend stiffener top connection system length combined with an inverse problem methodology is numerically investigated to estimate the following parameters: (i) polyurethane hyperelastic response and (ii) effective top tension. The top connection system is modeled using a large deflection beam bending model and the parameters are estimated using a damped least-square minimization approach with the Levenberg–Marquardt algorithm. For the preliminary feasibility investigation, the gyrometer experimental data is numerically estimated through Monte Carlo simulations. A case study is carried out to investigate the influence that the number of sensors, sensors arrangement, loading conditions and top connection model have on the inverse parameters estimation. The results indicate that the proposed monitoring approach and inverse parameter estimation methodology may effectively reduce flexible riser lifetime calculation uncertainties.     

Comparison of TOPEX/POSEIDON Altimeter Derived Wind Speed and Wave Parameters with Ocean Buoy Data in the North Indian Ocean

Results of comparison exercises carried out between the state-of-the-art TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter-derived ocean surface wind speed and ocean wave parameters (significant wave height and wave period) and those measured by a set of ocean data buoys in the North Indian Ocean are presented in this article. Altimeter-derived significant wave height values exhibited rms deviation as small as ±0.3 m, and surface wind speed of ±1.6 m/s. These results are found consistent with those found for the Pacific Ocean. For estimation of ocean wave period, the spectral moments-based semiempirical approach, earlier applied on GEOSAT data, was extended to TOPEX/POSEIDON. For this purpose, distributions of first four years of TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter data and climatology over the North Indian Ocean were analyzed and a new set of coefficients generated for estimation of wave period. It is shown that wave periods thus estimated from TOPEX/POSEIDON data (for the subsequent two years), when compared with independent data set of ocean data buoys deployed in the North Indian Ocean, exhibit improved accuracy (rms ~ ±1.4 nos) over those determined earlier with GEOSAT data.     

Synthetic aperture radar imaging of ocean waves during the marineland experiment

X- andL-band simultaneously obtained synthetic aperture radar (SAR) data of ocean gravity waves collected during the Marineland Experiment were analyzed using wave contrast measurements. The Marineland data collected in 1975 represents a unique historical data set for testing still-evolving theoretical models of the SAR ocean wave imaging process. The wave contrast measurements referred to are direct measurements of the backscatter variation between wave crests and troughs. These modulation depth measurements, which are indicators of wave detectability, were made as a function of: a) the settings used in processing the SAR signal histories to partially account for wave motion; b) wave propagation direction with respect to radar look direction for bothX- andL-band SAR data; c) SAR resolution; and d) number of coherent looks. The contrast measurements indicated that ocean waves imaged by a SAR are most discernible whenX-band frequency is used (as compared toL-band), and when the ocean waves are traveling in the range direction. Ocean waves can be detected by bothX- andL-band SAR, provided that the radar surface resolution is small compared to the ocean wavelength (at least 1/4 of the ocean wavelength is indicated by this work). Finally, wave detection withL-band SAR can be improved by adjusting the focal distance and rotation of the cylindrical telescope in the SAR optical processor to account for wave motion. The latter adjustments are found to be proportional to a value that is near the wave phase velocity.     

Steepness and asymmetry of extreme waves and the highest waves in deep water

Traditional wave steepness s=H/L does not define steep asymmetric waves in a random sea uniquey. Three additional parameters characterising single zero-downcross waves in a time series are crest front steepness, vertical asymmetry factor and horizontal asymmetry factor. Results for steepness and asymmetry from zero-downcross analysis of wave data obtained from full scale measurements in deep water on the Norwegian continental shelf in 58 time series are presented. The analysis demonstrates clearly the asymmetry of both “extreme waves” and the highest waves. The period and height of the highest waves are also given together with their correlation to spectral parameters. The measured maximum wave heights are also compared with predicted values of maximum wave heights showing good agreement.     

Comparison of TOPEX/POSEIDON Altimeter Derived Wind Speed and Wave Parameters with Ocean Buoy Data in the North Indian Ocean

Results of comparison exercises carried out between the state-of-the-art TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter-derived ocean surface wind speed and ocean wave parameters (significant wave height and wave period) and those measured by a set of ocean data buoys in the North Indian Ocean are presented in this article. Altimeter-derived significant wave height values exhibited rms deviation as small as - 0.3 m, and surface wind speed of - 1.6 m/s. These results are found consistent with those found for the Pacific Ocean. For estimation of ocean wave period, the spectral moments-based semiempirical approach, earlier applied on GEOSAT data, was extended to TOPEX/POSEIDON. For this purpose, distributions of first four years of TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter data and climatology over the North Indian Ocean were analyzed and a new set of coefficients generated for estimation of wave period. It is shown that wave periods thus estimated from TOPEX/POSEIDON data (for the subsequent two years), when compared with independent data set of ocean data buoys deployed in the North Indian Ocean, exhibit improved accuracy (rms ~ - 1.4 nos) over those determined earlier with GEOSAT data.     

基于Prophet算法的海南近海波浪长时段时序分析与预测

近年来,以大数据为基础的人工智能算法逐步兴起并被用于海洋波浪短期预测.本文采用2015-2019年海南近海逐时波浪实测时序数据,基于Prophet算法建立了海南近海波浪长时段时序预测模型,分析了2015-2019年海南近海波浪日、月、年变化特性,并对海南近海2020年波浪变化过程进行了预测.结果显示,Prophet算法...     

Two-dimensional continuous wavelet transform of simulated spatial images of waves on a slowly varying topography

The wavelet transform (WT) is now recognized as a useful, flexible, and efficient technique to analyze intermittent, non-stationary and inhomogeneous signals as well as images which are obtained from experimental or in situ measurements. In this study, the two-dimensional continuous wavelet transform (2-D CWT) was introduced to analyze the spatial image of waves. The numerical algorithm of 2-D CWT was developed and testified in simulated wave field of regular and random waves. Some more simulated wave fields of various wave conditions and sea bed slopes were then assumed to verify the analytical accuracy of this new technique. The comparisons of estimations to theoretical values for several wave parameters show that the 2-D CWT is capable of identifying the directional spectra and wave properties in shallow water.     

System identification for nonlinear maneuvering of large tankers using artificial neural network

This paper deals with the application of nonparametric system identification to a nonlinear maneuvering model for large tankers using artificial neural network method. The three coupled maneuvering equations in this model for large tankers contain linear and nonlinear terms and instead of attempting to determine the parameters (i.e. hydrodynamic derivatives) associated with nonlinear terms, all nonlinear terms are clubbed together to form one unknown time function per equation which are sought to be represented by the neural network coefficients. The time series used in training the network are obtained from simulated data of zigzag maneuvers and the proposed method has been applied to these data. The neural network scheme adopted in this work has one middle or hidden layer of neurons and it employs the Levenberg–Marquardt algorithm. Using the best choices for the number of hidden layer neurons, length of training data, convergence tolerance etc., the performance of the proposed neural network model has been investigated and conclusions drawn.     

Directional spectrum methods for deterministic waves

This work discusses developments related to the generation and measurement of directional wave spectra in multi-directional wave tank using deterministic waves. The details of the generation method, based on the single summation method described by Jefferys (1987), are given and the capacity of the Edinburgh curved wave tank to generate such waves is assessed. The Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM) and one of its derivative, The Modified Maximum Likelihood Method (MMLM) (Isobe and Kondo, 1985), are adapted to the characteristics of deterministic waves. The methods are assessed both with simulated waves and real wave elevations from the Edinburgh curved tank. Both methods show very satisfactory results with very stable angular spreading estimates and good tracking of mean directions of propagation across frequencies. The adapted MLM compares favourably with the industry standard, the Bayesian Directional Method, while only taking a fraction of the time needed to the BDM to produce its spectral estimates.     

Parameterization and simulation of near bed orbital velocities under irregular waves in shallow water

A set of empirical formulations is derived that describe important wave properties in shallow water as functions of commonly used parameters such as wave height, wave period, local water depth and local bed slope. These wave properties include time varying near-bed orbital velocities and statistical properties such as the distribution of wave height and wave period. Empirical expressions of characteristic wave parameters are derived on the basis of extensive analysis of field data using recently developed evolutionary algorithms. The field data covered a wide range of wave conditions, though there were few conditions with wave periods greater than 15 s. Comparison with field measurements showed good agreement both on a time scale of a single wave period as well as time averaged velocity moments.