Eddy viscosity and tidal cycles in a shallow sea

The very pronounced spring-neap tidal cycle in the South Australian Gulfs leads to an unusually large variation in the magnitude of the tidal currents. Measurements of the currents in these Gulfs show that the non-tidal circulation depends on the strength of the tidal currents and hence on the spring-neap cycle. A simple model is produced in which the vertical eddy viscosity is a function of both wind strength and tidal currents. Results from the model agree with the observations and suggest a means whereby variations in tidal mixing may be accounted for in hydrodynamic modelling of the circulation in shallow seas.     

径流和风对涌潮影响的数值模拟

由于实际江道中地形和江道轮廓等复杂性,难以分析涌潮演变规律。以钱塘江河口为基础,建立了概化河口的水动力数学模型,将复杂问题简单化,通过数学模型计算分析了径流和风况对潮差、涨潮历时、涌潮高度和涌潮传播速度的影响。结果表明,不同河段存在涌潮高度最大值的相应临界流量,越往下游,临界径流量越大;涌潮高度随风向变化规律是"逆风"<"无风"<"顺风";顺风条件下,风速越大,涌潮高度越大。     

Asymmetric tidal straining across an inlet: Lateral inversion and variability over a tidal cycle

Tidal straining is a phenomenon of temporal variations in stratification and mixing resulting from the interaction of a longitudinal salinity gradient with the vertical shear of the horizontal tidal velocity. As a result, the theory predicts stronger and weaker stratification during ebb/low tide and flood/high tide, respectively. In contrast to this well-known temporal asymmetry, in this study, we document in situ measurements demonstrating a lateral asymmetry and lateral inversion of tidal straining at Barataria Pass, a narrow (∼600 m wide) tidal inlet of Barataria Bay in southeastern Louisiana. During flood, the eastern side of the channel had strong stratification of 4 PSU salinity change over a 1.5 m thin layer while the western side had a 2 PSU change over a 12 m water column. This strong lateral difference decreased as flood continued until near the end of the flood when it reached vertically well-mixed condition across the channel. During ebb it was just the opposite such that the western side became stratified while the eastern end was well-mixed. This resulted to a small correlation coefficient of −0.05 for stratification between the west and east sides, although the central channel and east side have a high correlation coefficient of 0.88. The tidally averaged salinity was higher on the western end than the eastern end except in a narrow boundary layer close to the eastern shore. This is an apparent contradiction to what the Coriolis effect would produce in classical estuarine dynamics. Our hypothesis for the observed difference arises from the influence of the river water coming out of the Mississippi River through the Southwest Pass of the Birdfoot Delta. This water mass may have played a role in the observed, complicated lateral inversion of the tidal straining. This study underlines the complexity of estuarine dynamics proximal to large deltaic systems and we anticipate that these results will underscore the need for a modeling study to further investigate this dynamic process.     

Numerical simulation of characteristics of semidiurnal tidal waves in sea region around Taiwan

INTRODUCTIONNumerica comutation and simu1ation of tidal waves in the closed ocean of China havebo greatly imProved in recent years. As far as the method Of numerica comPU8tion are con-cemed, we can divide them into two classes: beundary va1ue methed and initial value methed.The fOrmer needs the tidal level value of coast beund8ry and the side beundary of water shOuldbe given, and its calculative result dePends on the reliability of boundary value. The rnan-madeermr, caed by getting the…     

环台湾岛海域半日潮波特征的三维模拟

用1997版POM海洋模式,首次应用于环台湾岛海域的潮波数值研究.得到该海域的半日潮波主要为23°N以南西太平洋传来的胁振潮.影响台湾海峡的半日潮波分别由海峡南北口传入的两支潮波,且北支强于南支.福建沿岸湄州湾-兴化湾为最强潮区,其M₂分潮最大振幅可达240cm.最强潮流区位于澎湖水道,M₂分潮最大潮流达196cm/s.环台湾岛海域潮波潮流水平结构上除海峡北部原有一个圆流点外,还发现另外存在4个新的圆流点.潮流垂直结构上主要为右偏,接近底层处为左偏.     

淤泥质潮流深槽最大冲刷深度的一个概念模型

以概念模式方法计算了淤泥质潮流深槽的最大深度,探讨了涨落潮流速、涨落潮历时、深槽淤泥质物质粒径、深槽顶底部原始深度、水道长度等因素对潮流深槽最大深度的影响。概念模式的假设条件是:(1)深槽形态为长方体,底部纵向坡度为0;(2)沉积物粒径无垂向变化;(3)只考虑潮流作用的影响,涨、落潮流速在时间序列上呈正弦分布;(4)不考虑细颗粒物质的粘性和絮凝作用。模拟结果显示:(1)涨、落潮历时对深槽最大深度的影响很小。(2)优势潮流流速与最大深槽深度之间存在着幂函数关系。(3)深槽的底质粒径、深槽的长度均与最大冲刷深度呈正相关关系。(4)深槽顶部水深与最大深度呈负相关关系。(5)由于潮汐水道深度与潮流流速和沉积物侵蚀强度之间具有负反馈关系,因此水道冲刷存在着一个极限,即最终可以达到均衡状态。潮流深槽的均衡态特征和达到均衡态所需的时间可运用沉积动力学方法来确定;同时,若应用深槽的真实参数,进一步减少模型的假设条件,可望使该模型具有实际的应用价值。     

Sea-level fluctuations in the fleet, an English tidal lagoon

Tidal elevation data are presented for places along the length of the Fleet, which is a tidal lagoon behind Chesil Beach on the south coast of England. Harmonic analysis of the data is not able to represent the observations adequately, particularly at the inner end of the lagoon. However, careful inspection of the data shows that the tidal regime is capable of being understood in terms of the non-linear propagation of long waves in very shallow water. Distortion of the tidal wave by unequal progression speeds of high and low water, and the set-up of mean level by frictional effects, are shown to be the important physical mechanisms controlling the observed water level fluctuations. A one-dimensional numerical model which incorporates these processes is able to reproduce the observations satisfactorily. Whilst the model predicts strong effects of wind stress, the meteorological influences in the observed data appear to be largely due to external surges in the English Channel which propagate into the lagoon through its entrance.     

渤海湾风浪场的数值模拟

采用SWAN模型对渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下的波浪场进行了模拟,并利用黄骅港附近波浪统计资料对模拟结果进行了验证。结果表明：SWAN模型较好地模拟了渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下风浪成长和传播过程。此外,还应用ADCIRC潮流模型,初步探讨了潮流对波浪要素的影响：(1)无流存在时,波高的成长和波周期的变化是一条光滑的曲线,但当有流加入时,由于其流速和水位在一个潮周期内随时间的变化足不均匀的,其对波浪成长产生影响,使波高和周期呈不规则变化;(2)波浪成长初期,流对波高增长的影响并不明显,但当波高增大到一定程度时,流的存在对波高的影响是很明显的。     

渤海潮波系统的数值模拟

利用二维非线性潮波方程组,讨论了渤黄海主要分潮(全日潮、半日潮及浅水分潮) 数值模拟中的有关问题。数值模拟中同时考虑了4个主要分潮(M2,S2,K1,O1)和两个浅水分潮(M4,MS4)。分析表明,在渤黄海潮波系统数值模拟中,稳定后选取14 d的数值模拟结果进行调和分析能够取得最佳(最合理)的调和分析结果。计算出调和常数的模拟值与实测值之差的绝对平均值:M2分潮的振幅差为4cm,迟角差为3.3°,S2分潮的振幅差为2cm,迟角差为4.2°,K1 分潮的振幅差为1cm,迟角差为3.7°,O1分潮的振幅差为2 cm,迟角差为5.5°。实验结果较好地体现了渤黄海潮波系统的特征。     

热带气旋风场对海浪分布特征的影响

设计了一系列理想的数值实验,利用高分辨率的WAVEWATCHIII海浪模式定量分析热带气旋移动速度、强度、最大风速半径和热带气旋移动时的转向等风场细节因素对热带气旋下表面海浪分布特征的影响。实验结果表明,热带气旋移动速度、最大风速半径和热带气旋移动时的转向会影响海浪的空间非对称分布。最大风速半径增大会使最大有效波高的位置向后移动,而移动速度增大会使最大有效波高位置向前移动。移动速度增大会使右侧象限内的有效波高增大,左侧象限内有效波高减小。最大风速半径增大和强度增强使各象限内有效波高均增高。热带气旋的转向使各象限内有效波高增高,除了右后象限。这些风场特征对各个象限内海浪的平均波长、平均周期、平均波向、和波峰方向都有很重要的影响,尤其以左后象限最为显著。     

Cotidal charts and tidal power input atlases of the global ocean from TOPEX/Poseidon and JASON-1 altimetry

The global distributions of eight principal tidal constituents, M₂ , S₂ , K₁ , O₁ , N₂ , K₂ , P₁ , and Q₁ , are derived using TOPEX/Poseidon and JASON-1（T/P-J） satellite altimeter data for 16 a. The intercomparison of the derived harmonics at 7000 subsatellite track crossover points shows that the root mean square （RMS） values of the tidal height differences of the above eight constituents range from 1.19 cm to 2.67 cm, with an average of about 2 cm. The RMS values of the tidal height differences between T/P-J solutions and the harmonics from ground measurements at 152 tidal gauge stations for the above constituents range from 0.34 cm to 1.08 cm, and the relative deviations range from 0.031 to 0.211. The root sum square of the RMS differences of these eight constituents is 2.12 cm, showing the improvement of the present model over the existing global ocean tidal models. Based on the obtained tidal model the global ocean tidal energetics is studied and the global distribution of the tidal power input density by tide-generating force of each constituent is calculated, showing that the power input source regions of semidiurnal tides are mainly concentrated in the tropical belt between 30 S and 30 N, while the power input source regions of diurnal tides are mainly concentrated off the tropic oceans. The global energy dissipation rates of the M₂ , S₂ , K₁ , O₁ , N₂ , P₁ , K₂ and Q₁ tides are 2.424, 0.401, 0.334, 0.160, 0.113, 0.035, 0.030 and 0.006 TW, respectively. The total global tidal dissipation rate of these eight constituents amounts to 3.5 TW.     

湄洲湾潮流特性的数值研究

本文运用一个含动边界的二维河口海岸动力模型模拟了湄洲湾潮汐潮流的基本特征,模拟结果与实测数据吻合较好．在此基础上估算了湄洲湾大、小潮过程的纳潮量,并根据湾内保守示踪物的质量（浓度）随涨、落潮流周期性的变化,进一步估算了湄洲湾的水交换周期,其半交换和80％的交换周期分别为5d和15d．同时可以看出,主航道深水区的水交换特性明显强于湾顶浅水区．     

用于分析主要分潮振幅和迟角季节变化的“分步式”调和分析方法

近年来,研究表明全球部分海域的主要分潮存在季节变化。然而,由于使用传统调和分析方法时,分潮的选取受时间窗长度影响,因此难以准确分析潮汐的季节变化。本文结合长、短时间窗,提出“分步式”调和分析方法,通过理想实验和验潮站实际数据分析验证了该方法的准确性。将新方法与传统调和分析方法加以对比,发现无论潮汐是否存在季节变化,该方法都能更加准确地计算主要分潮各月的振幅和迟角。新方法不仅可用于分析验潮站水位数据,还可用于内潮平稳性和非平稳性特征的研究。     

乐清湾内外潮波变形及不对称性分析

海湾内外的潮波变形及其不对称性影响海湾内外动力输送和水体交换。利用乐清湾内外共9个测站连续潮位进行调和分析,得到该海湾内外各分潮变化规律,利用潮不对称性偏度计算方法确定湾内外潮汐不对称性时空变化特征,比较了主要分潮组合对潮汐不对称性的贡献度,通过数值研究探讨了湾内偏度比湾外偏度值更小的主要成因,分析了湾内外围垦工程对潮不对称偏度的影响。研究发现:乐清湾内潮汐不对称偏度值为负,表现为落潮占优,同期湾外洞头站偏度值为正,与邻近瓯江、飞云江河口的潮不对称偏度变大、表现涨潮占优的变化规律相反;湾外沿岸各站偏度由东北向西南逐渐增大,由落潮占优向涨潮占优变化;潮汐不对称性偏度呈周期性变化,分析确定M2-M4、M2-S2-MS4分潮组合对潮不对称贡献大,该海域潮汐不对称的强度主要由浅水分潮振幅控制,而相对相位则决定潮汐不对称的方向;数值研究探讨表明,湾内大范围的浅滩地形是其潮汐不对称落潮占优的主要原因,围垦将削弱湾内的落潮占优。     

Three-dimensional modeling of tidal circulation and mixing over the Java Sea

A combination of a three-dimensional hydrodynamic model and in-situ measurements provides the structures of barotropic tides, tidal circulation and their relationship with turbulent mixing in the Java Sea, which allow us to understand the impact of the tides on material distribution. The model retains high horizontal and vertical resolutions and is forced by the boundary conditions taken from a global model. The measurements are composed of the sea level at coastal stations and currents at moorings embedded in Seawatch buoys, in addition to hydrographic data. The simulated tidal elevations are in good agreement with the data for the K₁ and M₂ constituents. The K₁ tide clearly shows the lowest mode resonance in the Java Sea with intensification around the nodal point in the central region. The M₂ tide is secondary and propagates westward from the eastern open boundary, along with a counterclockwise amphidromic point in the western part. The K₁ tide produces a major component of tidal energy, which flows westward and dissipates through the node region near the Karimata Strait. Meanwhile, the M₂ tide dissipates in the entire Java Sea. However, the residual currents are mainly induced by the M₂ tide, which flows westward following the M₂ tidal wave propagation. The tidal mixing is mainly caused by K₁ tide which peaks at the central region and is consistent with the uniform temperature and salinity along the vertical dimension. This mixing is expected to play an important role in the vertical exchange of nutrients and control of biological productivity.     

风暴潮模拟中潮位对风拖曳力系数的影响研究

近年来,应用数值模型模拟台风引起的风暴潮运动越来越普遍,模型中对于风拖曳力系数的确定,一般都从相对风速出发,可引用的公式也较多,但这些公式很少考虑潮位变化对此系数的影响.在强潮河口、海岸海域,潮位变幅大,最高潮位甚至可达风速参考高度(10m)的近一半,如长江口和杭州湾.在数值模拟中不考虑风暴潮和天文潮共同引起的潮位变化,会造成风应力高潮时被低估、低潮时被高估的现象,从而影响风暴潮模拟的精度.为此本文对现有的风拖曳力系数加以改进,提出了考虑潮位影响的风拖曳力系数表达式,并应用于长江口、杭州湾9711号台风风暴潮的模拟中,增水模拟结果得到了明显改善,可进一步推广应用于强潮河口、海岸的风暴潮增水模拟中.     

A study of non-linear tidal propagation in shallow inlet/estuarine systems Part I: Observations

The offshore tide becomes strongly distorted as it propagates into shallow estuarine systems. Observations of sea surface elevation and horizontal currents over periods ranging from three days to one year, at nine stations within Nauset inlet/estuary, document the non-linear interaction of the off-shore equilibrium tidal constituents. Despite strong frictional attenuation within the estuary, the overtides and compound tides of M₂, S₂ and N₂, in particular, reach significant amplitude, resulting in strong tidal distortion. High frequency forced constituents in sea surface are phase-locked, consistently leading the forcing tides by 60–70°, resulting in a persistent distortion where falling tide is longer than rising tide. Forced constituents in currents are more nearly in phase with equilibrium constituents, producing flood currents which are shorter but more intense than ebb currents. A compound fortnightly tide, MS_f, modulates the mean water level such that lowest tides occur during neap phase instead of spring phase. This fortnightly tide can be contaminated by storm surge, changing the phase characteristics of this constituent. Implications of the overtides, compound tides, and lower frequency tides on near-bed, suspended and dissolved material transport are profound.     

Combined tidal and wind driven flows and residual currents

The effect of a residual current on the combined tidal and wind driven flow and the resulting bedload sediment transport in the ocean has been investigated, using a simple one dimensional two-equation turbulence closure model. Predictions of the combined tidal and wind driven flow with given residual currents are presented, showing that the residual current has a substantial effect on both the depth averaged mass transport and the mean bedload transport directions; in some cases the effect of the residual current is to almost reverse the mean bedload transport direction. The residual current affects the rotation of the flow due to the Coriolis effect in the lower part of the water column (the near-surface flow is wind dominated), causing a larger or smaller clockwise rotation of the depth averaged mass transport, depending on the direction of the residual current.     

Verification of linear theory for particle velocities in wind waves based on field measurements

Analyses are presented of field measurements of spectral transfer functions between surface elevation and subsurface three-dimensional particle velocity in wind-generated waves, in conditions ranging from young seas to old swells. The results are in agreement with the linear theory predictions to within the measurement error margin, which is estimated to be ± 5% for the gain functions and ± 4° in phase as far as the possible systemic errors are concerned. No correlation is found of the degree of agreement between measurements and linear theory with wave age or wave sleepness.     

叠加风场在南海台风浪数值后报中的应用研究

根据经验风场与NCEP再分析风场的优缺点,采用两者相叠加的方式构造了一种叠加风场,与实测风速资料对比验证显示该风场精度较高。以叠加风场数据为输入,采用WAVEWATCH Ⅲ模式对南海海域有显著影响的8场台风进行计算,结果显示叠加风场计算南海台风浪具有较高的精度和可靠性。