Temporal variability of tsunami arrival detection distance revealed by virtual tsunami observation experiments using numerical simulation and 1-month HF radar observation

The combination of a high-frequency ocean surface radar and a tsunami detection method should be assessed as the onshore-offshore distribution of tsunami detection probability, because the probability will vary in accordance with the signal-to-noise ratio (SNR) and the tsunami magnitude in addition to the radar system specifications. Here, we statistically examine the tsunami detection distance based on virtual tsunami observation experiments by using signals received by a high-frequency radar in February 2014 installed on the southern coast of Japan and numerically simulated velocities induced by a Nankai Trough earthquake. In the experiments, the Doppler frequencies associated with the simulated velocities were superimposed on the receiving signals of the radar, and the radial velocities were calculated from the synthesized signals by the fast Fourier transform. Tsunami arrival was then detected based on the temporal change in the cross-correlation of the velocities, before and after tsunami arrival, between two points 3 km apart along a radar beam. We found that the possibility of tsunami detection primarily depends on the kinetic energy ratio between tsunami current and background current velocities. The monthly average detection probability is over 90% when the energy ratio exceeds 5 (offshore distance: 9 km ≤ L ≤ 36 km) and reduces to 50% when the energy ratio is approximately 1 (L = 42 km) over the shelf slope. The ratio varied with the background current physics and SNR, which was mainly affected by ocean surface wave heights and ionospheric electron density.     

海啸波传播的线性和非线性特征及近海陆架效应影响的数值研究

浅水方程被广泛应用于海啸预警报业务及研究,而针对线性浅水方程与非线性浅水方程在不同海区水深地形条件下的适用范围、计算效率问题是海啸研究人员急需了解的。本文应用基于浅水方程的海啸数值预报模型就海啸波在南海、东海传播的线性、非线性特征以及陆架对其传播之影响进行了数值分析研究。海啸波在深水的传播表征为强线性特征,此时线性系统对海啸波幅的模拟计算具有较高的精度和效率,而弱的非线性特征及弱的色散特征对海啸波幅的预报影响甚微,可以忽略不计。海啸波传播至浅水大陆架后受海底坡度变化、海底粗糙度等因素影响,波动的非线性效应迅速传播、积累,与线性浅水方程计算的海啸波相比表现出较大差异,主要表现为:在南海区,水深小于100m时,海啸波首波以后的系列波动非线性特征比较明显,两者波幅差别较大,但首波波幅的区别不大,因此对于该区域在不考虑海啸爬高的情况下,应用线性系统计算得到的海啸波幅也可满足海啸预警报的要求;在东海区由于陆架影响,海啸波非线性特征明显增强,水深小于100m区域,首波及其后系列波波幅均差异较大,故在该区域必须考虑海啸波非线性作用。本文就底摩擦项对海啸波首波波幅的影响进行了数值对比分析,结果表明:底摩擦作用对海啸波首波波幅影响仅作用于小于100m水深。最后,该文通过敏感性试验,初步分析了陆架宽度及陆架边缘深度对海啸波波幅的影响,得出海啸波经陆架传播共振、变形后,海啸波幅的放大或减小与陆架的宽度及陆架边缘水深有关。     

The Current Structure of the Tsushima Warm Current along the Japanese Coast

The branching of the Tsushima Warm Current (TWC) along the Japanese coast is studied based upon intensive ADCP and CTD measurements conducted off the Wakasa Bay in every early summer of 1995–1998, the analysis of the temperature distribution at 100 m depth and the tracks of the surface drifters (Ishii and Michida, 1996; Lee et al., 1997). The first branch of TWC (FBTWC) exists throughout the year. It starts from the eastern channel of the Tsushima Straits, flows along the isobath shallower than 200 m along the Japanese coast and flows out through the Tsugaru Strait. The current flowing through the western channel of the Tsushima Straits feeds the second branch of TWC (SBTWC) which develops from spring to fall. The development of SBTWC propagates from the Tsushima Straits to Noto Peninsula at a speed of about 7 cm sec⁻¹ following the continental shelf break with a strong baroclinicity. However, SBTWC cannot be always found around the shelf break because its path is influenced by the development of eddies. It is concluded that SBTWC is a topographically steered current; a current steered by the continental shelf break. Salient features at intermediate depth are the southwestward subsurface counter current (SWSCC) between 150 m and 300 m depths over the shelf region in 1995–1998 with the velocity exceeding about 5 cm sec⁻¹, although discrepancies of the velocity and its location are observed between the ADCP data and the geostrophic currents. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

HF radar detection of tsunamis

This paper demonstrates that HF radar systems can be used to detect tsunamis well before their arrival at a coastline. We solve the equations of motion and continuity on the ocean surface using models to simulate the signals produced by a tsunami approaching the east U.S. coast. Height and velocity profiles are derived along with expressions for the radar-observed current velocities in terms of bathymetry and tsunami height and period. Simulated tsunami-generated radial current velocities are superimposed on typical maps of radial velocity generated by a Rutgers University HF radar system. A detection parameter is defined and plotted to quantify the progress of the tsunami, which is shown to be detectable well before its arrival at the coast. We describe observations/warnings that would have been provided by HF radar systems at locations in the path of the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami.     

Shelf waves with diurnal tidal frequency at the Greenland shelf edge

Tidal analysis was carried out on current measurements at a “cross-shelf” transect off Greenland at 71°N. The diurnal tides manifest themselves mainly as a barotropic continental shelf wave, travelling southward along the shelf slope. This follows from the amplitude distribution of the diurnal tidal components and from the rotation sense of the tidal ellipses at different cross-slope locations, as calculated with simple two-dimensional models. The well organized cross-slope pattern of the velocity amplitudes is absent in observations further north near 75°N. These observations suggest that the local vanishing of the group velocity, which is caused by topography, is of importance for the existence and local amplification of these continental shelf waves with diurnal tidal frequency.     

Sand bodies and incised valleys within the Late Quaternary Sanaga–Nyong delta complex on the middle continental shelf of Cameroon

Seismic data and sediment cores collected offshore from the Sanaga River and Nyong River mouths were used to analyse a loose mantle of yellow to reddish sandy gravel with a range of fluvial and deltaic characteristics cropping out in the middle part (25–65 m water depth) of the continental shelf of Cameroon. Contrary to most of the Atlantic shelves, where the lowstand systems tract was destroyed by erosion, we found 80–120 ms (60–90 m) of sediment mainly in the middle part of the shelf, which correspond credibly to MIS 2–4. Fluvial paleodrainage systems are preserved beneath the shelf and individual filled channels with planar infillings were mapped that cross the shelf along two surfaces of erosion. These incisions suggested westerly and northwesterly drainage shifts during presumed lowered base level. The presence of closely spaced channel fills suggests repeated avulsion of a single stream during a long-lasting sub-aerial erosion period. The seismic facies of these Pleistocene deposits distinguish themselves clearly from well-stratified older strata showing deformation (Pliocene) or intense folding (Miocene). The orientation of the paleovalleys appears strongly controlled by the N60°E trending cross faults within Mesozoic–Cenozoic strata.     

Remote-sensing evidence for the local generation of internal soliton packets in the central Bay of Biscay

Large-amplitude internal solitary waves (or “solitons”) occurring in packets near the shelf break in the Bay of Biscay are well-documented and understood. The presence of similar features has now also been reported in the central Bay, ≈150 km from the nearest shelf break topography. The present paper analyses available remote-sensing synthetic aperture radar (SAR) data from the ERS satellites in this region. By doing so, we are able to provide convincing support for the hypothesis that these waves, instead of having travelled along the thermocline from the shelf break, are instead generated locally in the central Bay by the surfacing of a beam of internal tidal energy originating from the shelf break. This reinforces the results of a previous independent study, while at the same time providing a much more extensive investigation than was then possible. We have also exploited the large swath width (100 km) and high spatial resolution (100 m×100 m) of the SAR to examine for the first time the full surface structure of the internal waves in the central Bay, which are found to have a mean wavelength of 1.35 km, and a mean along-crest “coherence” length of 21.55 km.     

Relatioship between the intensity of tsunami and the location of the epicentre of underwater earthquakes near the continental slope of the South Coast of Crimea

Within the framework of the nonlinear theory of one-dimensional long waves, we performed the numerical analysis of the dependence of the intensity of tsunami on the shelf of the South Coast of Crimea on the location of the epicentre of underwater earthquakes near the continental slope of the basin. The calculations were carried out for the parameters of the model corresponding to the Yalta tsunami of September 12, 1927. It is shown that, for the same magnitude of the earthquake, the smaller the distance from its epicentre to the coastal line, the lower tsunami waves in the coastal zone and the smaller their vertical run-up. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev     

Structure and morphology of the west Reykjanes basin and the southeast Greenland continental margin

The continental-shelf morphology is dominated by glacial erosion and deposition. Erosion is prominent on the near-shore shelf and deposition along the outer shelf edge. The continental slope is characterized by delta-shaped progradations (glaciomarine-sediment fans) seaward of the shelf channels. Canyons cross the continental slope only in the region southeast of Cape Farewell. The continental rise is incised by a number of submarine canyons. Broad sediment ridges on the upper continental rise are probably canyon-eroded remains of extensive Plio-Pleistocene fans. A mid-ocean channel which crosses the continental rise is possibly related to the axis of maximum depth of Denmark Strait. Despite the presence of strong bottom currents, there is no indication of depositional sediment drifts along the continental margin of Greenland between Cape Farewell and Denmark Strait. This may be a function of high current velocity or low sediment load.Sea floor older than 60 m.y. B.P. is present just seaward of the Greenland continental margin implying either downwarped continental material or an early rift formed prior to the separation of Greenland from the European plate. A left lateral offset of anomalies 20 and 21 at 65°N indicates a major fracture zone related to the Greenland continental margin offset nearby.     

Structure and variability of the Filchner overflow plume

Properties of the dense ice shelf water plume emerging from the Filchner Depression in the southwestern Weddell Sea are described, using available current meter records and CTD stations. A mean hydrography, based on more than 300 CTD stations gathered over 25 yr points to a cold, relatively thin and vertically well-defined plume east of the two ridges cross-cutting the continental slope about 60 km from the Filchner sill, whereas the dense bottom layer is warmer, more stratified and much thicker west of these ridges. The data partly confirm the three major pathways suggested earlier and agree with recent theories on topographic steering by submarine ridges. A surprisingly high mesoscale variability in the overflow region is documented and discussed. The variability is to a large extent due to three distinct oscillations (with periods of about 35 h, 3 and 6 d) seen in both temperature and velocity records on the slope. The oscillations are episodic, barotropic and have a horizontal scale of ∼20–40 km across the slope. They are partly geographically separated, with the longer period being stronger on the lower part of the slope and the shorter on the upper part of the slope. Energy levels are lower west of the ridges, and in the Filchner Depression. The observations are discussed in relation to existing theories on eddies, commonly generated in plumes, and continental shelf waves.     

Correlation between the intensity of tsunami in the Black Sea and the magnitude of underwater earthquakes

We perform the analysis of tsunami waves in the shelf zone of the Crimean peninsula generated by underwater earthquakes whose epicentres are located near the lower boundary of the continental slope. For this purpose, we use a one-dimensional nonlinear dissipative numerical model of long waves. The investigated distributions of the depth of the basin correspond to four points of the south coast of the Crimean peninsula. We use the empirical dependences of parameters of the sources of tsunami waves on the magnitude of the earthquake obtained earlier for the Pacific Ocean. It is shown that the height, vertical climb, and duration of tsunami waves increase with the magnitude of the earthquake. For equal magnitudes of the earthquake, the highest tsunamis on the south coast of the Crimea are observed between Alushta and Yalta. We also deduced a generalized regression dependence of the height of tsunami waves near the coast on the magnitude of the earthquake. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev     

Turbidite deposition and the development of canyons through time on an intermittently glaciated continental margin: The Bonanza Canyon system,offshore eastern Canada

Bonanza Canyon is a complex canyon system on the slope from the intermittently glaciated Grand Bank on the south side of Orphan Basin. A 3D seismic reflection volume, 2D high-resolution seismic reflection profiles and ten piston cores were acquired to study the evolution of this canyon system in relation to glacial processes on the continental shelf and the effects of different types of turbidity currents on the development of deep water channels. Mapped reflector surfaces from the 3D seismic volume show that the Bonanza Canyons developed in a depression created by a large submarine slide of middle Pleistocene age, coincident with the onset of glacigenic debris flows entering western Orphan Basin. Two 3–5 km wide, flat-floored channels were cut into the resulting mass-transport deposit and resemble catastrophic glacial meltwater channels elsewhere on the margin. Both channels subsequently aggraded. The eastern channel A became narrower but maintained a sandy channel floor. The western channel, B, heads at a spur on the continental slope and appears to have been rather passively draped by muds and minor sands that have built 1500-m wave length sediment waves.Muddy turbidites recorded by piston cores in the channel and on the inter-channel ridges are restricted to marine isotope stage (MIS) 2 and were deposited from thick, sheet-like, and sluggish turbidity current derived from western Orphan Basin that resulted in aggradation of the channels and inter-channel ridges. Sandy turbidites in channels and on inner levees were deposited throughout MIS 2–3 and were restricted to the channels, locally causing erosion. Some coincide with Heinrich events. Channels with well-developed distributaries on the upper slope more readily trap the sediments on Grand Bank to form sandy turbidity currents. Channel B dominated by muddy turbidity currents has wide and relatively smooth floor whereas channel A dominated by sandy turbidity currents has a sharp geometry.     

Heavy metals in particulate matter and sediments in the southern Barcelona sedimentation system (North-western Mediterranean)

Concentrations of selected heavy metals (Cr, Cu, Ni, Pb and Zn) from surface sediments, suspended particulate matter and settling particles in the southern Barcelona continental margin were studied in order to evaluate the environmental impact of the anthropogenic metals discharged by the Llobregat River in this Mediterranean area. The temporal variation of heavy metals discharged by this river onto the continental shelf is clearly related to the river water flow. Part of the fine sediment and associated heavy metals transported by the Llobregat River during periods of low river flow accumulate on the river bed, and they are totally removed and discharged onto the Barcelona continental shelf during sporadic river water flow increases. Metals produce significant anomalies of chromium (×2.5), copper (×3.4) and zinc (×3.7) in the surface sediments of the Llobregat prodelta and tend to be transported along the continental shelf following the mean flow. Metals associated with the finest suspended flocs transferred to the slope are controlled by the shelf-slope density front and are transported along slope by the general geostrophic current, instead of accumulating and becoming concentrated in the slope bottom sediments. Settling particulate matter collected in sediment traps on the Barcelona continental slope offshore of the shelf-slope front shows low heavy metal concentrations except in a few sediment trap samples that are significantly metal-enriched in chromium (×4.5) and zinc (×6.8). This enrichment is associated with very short and sporadic river flow increases and is only recorded inside the Foix submarine canyon, which acts as a preferential conduit for the shelf-slope sediment transfer.     

Numerical modeling of the propagation and strengthening of tsunami waves near the Crimean Peninsula and the Northeast Coast of the Black Sea

The linear model of long waves is used for the evaluation of the parameters of tsunami waves along the South Coast of Crimea, in the near-Kerch zone, and near the northeast coast of the Black Sea. Our numerical investigations are carried out for 24 probable locations of the elliptic zones of tsunami generation over the continental slope of the basin. The amplitude characteristics of tsunamis are computed for 27 sites of the Black-Sea coast. It is shown that significant strengthening of tsunami waves is possible in the course of their propagation toward the coast. The highest waves are formed at the sites of the coast closest to the seismic source. The dependence of the intensity of tsunami waves along the Black-Sea coast on the location of the seismic source and its magnitude is analyzed.     

Run-Up of a Solitary Tsunami Wave on a Sloping Coast

Within the framework of the nonlinear theory of long waves, we perform the numerical analysis of the one-dimensional run-up of solitary tsunami waves upon a plane sloping coast. We study the dependences of the run-up heights on the parameters of waves at the entrance of the shelf zone and on the slope of the coast. The run-up heights of tsunami waves are estimated for the bottom topography typical of the south coast of the Crimean Peninsula. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 4, pp. 11–18, July–August, 2005.     

Thermal regime of the northwest Indian rifted margin – Comparison with predictions

We use a simple approach to estimate the present-day thermal regime along the northwestern part of the Western Indian Passive Margin, offshore Pakistan. A compilation of bottom borehole temperatures and geothermal gradients derived from new observations of bottom-simulating reflections (BSRs) allows us to constrain the relationship between the thermal regime and the known tectonic and sedimentary framework along this margin. Effects of basin and crustal structure on the estimation of thermal gradients and heat flow are discussed. A hydrate system is located within the sedimentary deep marine setting and compared to other provinces on other continental margins. We calculate the potential radiogenic contribution to the surface heat flow along a profile across the margin. Measurements across the continental shelf show intermediate thermal gradients of 38–44 °C/km. The onshore Indus Basin shows a lower range of values spanning 18–31 °C/km. The Indus Fan slope and continental rise show an increasing gradient from 37 to 55 °C/km, with higher values associated with the thick depocenter. The gradient drops to 33 °C/km along the Somnath Ridge, which is a syn-rift volcanic construct located in a landward position relative to the latest spreading center around the Cretaceous–Paleogene transition.     

南海北部相干内潮和非相干内潮演变特征

通过南海北部跨越陆坡和陆架区的3套潜标数据,对全日和半日相干、非相干内潮的动能变化特征进行了研究。研究表明,全日内潮沿陆坡区向陆架区传播的过程中,在陆坡区主要以全日相干内潮生成为主,平均动能生成率为2.32 J/（m3·s）;在陆架区以全日相干内潮耗散为主,平均动能耗散率为0.44 J/（m3·s）。全日非相干内潮动能在陆坡和陆架区均增长,平均动能生成率分别为0.39 J/（m3·s）和0.03 J/（m3·s）。全日与半日相干内潮动能在陆坡和陆架区的表现不同,陆坡区的全日相干内潮动能明显大于陆架区的全日相干内潮动能,而半日相干内潮动能在陆坡和陆架区没有明显差别;陆架区的全日和半日非相干内潮动能要大于陆坡区的全日和半日非相干内潮动能。     

Deep slope currents and suspended particle fluxes in and around the Foix submarine canyon (NW Mediterranean)

Deep slope currents and particulate matter concentrations were studied on the Barcelona continental margin in and around the Foix submarine canyon from May 1993 to April 1994. This year-long moored experiment revealed that near-bottom slope currents are strongly influenced by the bottom topography, being oriented along isobaths and along the canyon axis. The deep slope current fluctuations are controlled by the local inertial motion (18.3 h) and also by low-frequency oscillations at periods of 6–10 days, related to the passage of atmospheric pressure cells. Particulate matter concentrations recorded during the experiment do not show a clear seasonal variability, except outside the canyon, where significant peaks of particulate matter concentrations were recorded only during the winter-fall deployment. In addition, the temporal evolution of suspended particulate matter concentration is not linked to changes in the cross-slope or along-slope current components and did not show a clear relationship with river avenues or wave storm events. This suggests that suspended particulate matter exported from the shelf is dispersed on the slope by advective processes, which attenuate the signal of the shelf-slope sediment transfer. Mean particulate matter concentrations differed among sampling sites, but the magnitude of the mean horizontal suspended particle flux reflects a quite similar value in the whole study area, ranging from 2.53 to 4.05 mg m⁻² s⁻¹. These horizontal suspended particle fluxes are 27 (canyon head) to 360 (open slope) times higher than the settling particle fluxes measured at the same sampling sites, indicating that the suspended particulate transport on the Barcelona continental slope dominates over the settling particle fluxes, even inside the Foix submarine canyon.     

Demersal Continental Shelf and Upper Slope Cephalopod Assemblages from the Balearic Sea (North-Western Mediterranean). Biological Aspects of Some Deep-Sea Species

The analysis of 79 hauls performed by commercial bottom trawlers from 50 to 800 m depth in the Balearic Sea (north-western Mediterranean) from June 1995 to September 1996 yielded a total of 30 cephalopod species belonging to 12 families. Cluster analysis of these data gave as a result two main groups 50–200 m and 200–800 m each subdivided into two other groups (50–100 vs. 100–200 m and 200–600 vs. 600–800 m). These results suggested the existence of two assemblages that could be associated to the continental shelf (50–100 m) and the upper slope (600–800 m) separated by a wide transitional zone (100–600 m) representing a region of overlapping shelf and slope faunas (ecotone). The faunistic bathymetric gradient showed a continuous substitution of species with depth rather than discrete assemblages separated by distinct boundaries. The more coastal species such as Eledone moschata, Loligo vulgarisSepia officinalis and Octopus vulgaris were found on the continental shelf; on the transitional zone, apart from species characteristic of this zone (Illex coindetii, Sepietta oweniana, Rossia macrosoma, Scaeurgus unicirrhus and Pteroctopus tetracirrhus), we also observed species from both the continental shelf and slope. The upper slope was characterized by typical species of deeper waters, such asBathypolypus sponsalis , Histioteuthis reversa, H. bonnellii, Ancistroteuthis lichtensteinii andOnychoteuthis banksii . The octopod O. vulgaris was the dominant species on the continental shelf and upper transitional zone, being substituted by T. sagittatus on the lower transitional zone and upper slope. Mean biomass decreased abruptly from the continental shelf to the transitional zone and from there to the upper slope. Mean species richness and species diversity were higher in the transitional zone than in the continental shelf and upper slope. Finally, some biological aspects of the more abundant deep-sea cephalopod species are studied: Bathypolypus sponsalis, Octopus salutii,Pteroctopus tetracirrhus , Histioteuthis reversa and H. bonnellii.     

Run-up of tsunamis and long waves in terms of surf-similarity

In this paper we review and re-examine the classical analytical solutions for run-up of periodic long waves on an infinitely long slope as well as on a finite slope attached to a flat bottom. Both cases provide simple expressions for the maximum run-up and the associated flow velocity in terms of the surf-similarity parameter and the amplitude to depth ratio determined at some offshore location. We use the analytical expressions to analyze the impact of tsunamis on beaches and relate the discussion to the recent Indian Ocean tsunami from December 26, 2004. An important conclusion is that extreme run-up combined with extreme flow velocities occurs for surf-similarity parameters of the order 3–6, and for typical tsunami wave periods this requires relatively mild beach slopes. Next, we compare the theoretical solutions to measured run-up of breaking and non-breaking irregular waves on steep impermeable slopes. For the non-breaking waves, the theoretical curves turn out to be superior to state-of-the-art empirical estimates. Finally, we compare the theoretical solutions with numerical results obtained with a high-order Boussinesq-type method, and generally obtain an excellent agreement.