An Improved Coupling of Numerical and Physical Models for Simulating Wave Propagation

An improved coupling of numerical and physical models for simulating 2D wave propagation is developed in this paper. In the proposed model, an unstructured finite element model (FEM) based Boussinesq equations is applied for the numerical wave simulation, and a 2D piston-type wavemaker is used for the physical wave generation. An innovative scheme combining fourth-order Lagrange interpolation and Runge-Kutta scheme is described for solving the coupling equation. A Transfer function modulation method is presented to minimize the errors induced from the hydrodynamic invalidity of the coupling model and/or the mechanical capability of the wavemaker in area where nonlinearities or dispersion predominate. The overall performance and applicability of the coupling model has been experimentally validated by accounting for both regular and irregular waves and varying bathymetry. Experimental results show that the proposed numerical scheme and transfer function modulation method are efficient for the data transfer from the numerical model to the physical model up to a deterministic level.     

An Improved Coupling of Numerical and Physical Models for Simulating Wave Propagation简

An improved coupling of numerical and physical models for simulating 2D wave propagation is developed in this paper. In the proposed model, an unstructured finite element model （FEM） based Boussinesq equations is applied for the numerical wave simulation, and a 2D piston-type wavemaker is used for the physical wave generation. An innovative scheme combining fourth-order Lagrange interpolation and Runge-Kutta scheme is described for solving the coupling equation. A Transfer function modulation method is presented to minimize the errors induced from the hydrodynamic invalidity of the coupling model and/or the mechanical capability of the wavemaker in area where nonlinearities or dispersion predominate. The overall performance and applicability of the coupling model has been experimentally validated by accounting for both regular and irregular waves and varying bathymetry. Experimental results show that the proposed numerical scheme and transfer function modulation method are efficient for the data transfer from the numerical model to the physical model up to a deterministic level.     

珠江河口对外海潮波响应的固有频率研究——采用系统控制论方法

采用受控的自回归滑动平均模型(CARMA)分别研究了珠江河口洪、枯季对外海潮波响应的固有频率.枯季采用单输入单输出模型,洪季采用双输入单输出模型,通过验证、检验表明,模型(CARMA)可用于寻求复杂网河对外海潮波响应的固有频率,方法可靠,易操作.通过频率增益响应分析,发现枯季珠江河口的固有频率以浅水分潮频段为主,对应周...     

基于数字高程模型的堰塞湖灾害预测探讨

以唐家山堰塞湖为例,利用ArcGIS中的水文分析模块处理唐家山所处的涪江流域的DEM数据,提取河网并划分子流域,然后根据堰塞湖在河网中的位置提取并计算集雨面积,再由改进的新安江模型进行洪水演进,实现对堰塞湖的灾害预测。在改进的新安江模型中,提出综合DEM划分的子流域以及雨量站的分布,计算流域面雨量的方法,以提高模型的精度。     

珠江河口对外海潮波响应的固有频率研究——采用系统控制论方法

采用受控的自回归滑动平均模型(CARMA)分别研究了珠江河口洪、枯季对外海潮波响应的固有频率。枯季采用单输入单输出模型,洪季采用双输入单输出模型,通过验证、检验表明,模型(CARMA)可用于寻求复杂网河对外海潮波响应的固有频率,方法可靠,易操作。通过频率增益响应分析,发现枯季珠江河口的固有频率以浅水分潮频段为主,对应周期介于6~10.0 h之间,枯季固有频率未出现在全日潮波对应的频段。洪季珠江河口的固有频率也以浅水分潮频段为主,珠江河口对浅水分潮的系统增益响应幅值最大。固有频率接近浅水分潮频段的站点,枯季较洪季固有频率减小,对应周期延长。     

Extreme value prediction via a quantile function model

Methods for estimating extreme loads are used in design as well as risk assessment. Regression using maximum likelihood or least squares estimation is widely used in a univariate analysis but these methods favour solutions that fit observations in an average sense. Here we describe a new technique for estimating extremes using a quantile function model. A quantile of a distribution is most commonly termed a ‘return level’ in flood risk analysis. The quantile function of a random variable is the inverse function of its distribution function. Quantile function models are different from the conventional regression models, because a quantile function model estimates the quantiles of a variable conditional on some other variables, while a regression model studies the conditional mean of a variable. So quantile function models allow us to study the whole conditional distribution of a variable via its quantile function, whereas conventional regression models represent the average behaviour of a variable.Little work can be found in the literature about prediction from a quantile function model. This paper proposes a prediction method for quantile function models. We also compare different types of statistical models using sea level observations from Venice. Our study shows that quantile function models can be used to estimate directly the relationships between sea condition variables, and also to predict critical quantiles of a sea condition variable conditional on others. Our results show that the proposed quantile function model and the developed prediction method have the potential to be very useful in practice.     

Large Eddy Simulation for Wave Breaking in the Surf Zone

In this paper, (he large eddy simulation method is used combined with the marker and cell method to study the wave propagation or shoaling and breaking process. As wave propagates into shallow water, the shoaling leads lo the increase of wave height, and then at a certain position, the wave will be breaking. The breaking wave is a powerful agent for generating turbulence, which plays an important role in most of the fluid dynamic processes throughout the surf zone, such as transformation of wave energy, generation of near-shore current and diffusion of materials. So a proper numerical model for describing the turbulence effect is needed. In this paper, a revised Smagorinsky subgrid-scale mode! is used to describe the turbulence effect. The present study reveals that the coefficient of the Smagorinsky model for wave propagation or breaking simulation may be taken as a varying function of the water depth and distance away from the wave breaking point. The large eddy simulation model presented in this pape     

连云港埒子口海域潮动力特征及其变化

为研究连云港埒子口海域潮流动力特征及其对周边海岸工程的响应,以及为治理埒子口闸下淤积问题提供参考,建立了基于有限体积法离散二维浅水方程的数值模型。采用实测水文资料对模型率定和验证,应用模型分析埒子口潮流动力特征和建设徐圩港防波堤和灌河口导堤后埒子口海域潮流动力的变化。模拟结果表明,建设工程后潮流动力变化较大,埒子口海域涨急流和落急流方向改变,涨、落潮平均流速均减小,距离工程区域越近,流速变化越大。埒子口海域潮流动力减弱将会加重上游挡潮闸的闸下淤积问题,致使埒子口排水不畅,进而增加沂北地区的洪涝风险,所以,相关部门应及时采取措施,保证埒子口排涝畅通。     

Bottom Sediment Transport in the Flood and Ebb Channels of the Changjiang Estuary

Nanxiaohong and Nangang main south channel are chosen as the typical flood and ebb channels. Hydrodynamics analysis based on field hydrological and sediment data is conducted with Gao-Collins model to analyse sediment transport trends. Also, the grain size distribution analysis of the bottom sediment sampled in Sep. 2001 is used as the base of the analysis. The result shows that the sediment in Nanxiaohong is from the rive mouth area. The sediment transports upwards with the flood flow which is stronger than the ebb flow, i.e., in the direction of SE-WN. The sediment in main south channel comes from upward. They transport downwards with the ebb flow. which is stronger than the flood flow, i.e., in the direction of WN-SE. The directions, sources and mechanism of sediment transport are identified according to comprehensive analyses of the observed data on hydrodynamics and sediment.     

Hybrid frequency–time domain models for dynamic response analysis of marine structures

Time-domain models of marine structures based on frequency domain data are usually built upon the Cummins equation. This type of model is a vector integro-differential equation which involves convolution terms. These convolution terms are not convenient for analysis and design of motion control systems. In addition, these models are not efficient with respect to simulation time, and ease of implementation in standard simulation packages. For these reasons, different methods have been proposed in the literature as approximate alternative representations of the convolutions. Because the convolution is a linear operation, different approaches can be followed to obtain an approximately equivalent linear system in the form of either transfer function or state-space models. This process involves the use of system identification, and several options are available depending on how the identification problem is posed. This raises the question whether one method is better than the others. This paper therefore has three objectives. The first objective is to revisit some of the methods for replacing the convolutions, which have been reported in different areas of analysis of marine systems: hydrodynamics, wave energy conversion, and motion control systems. The second objective is to compare the different methods in terms of complexity and performance. For this purpose, a model for the response in the vertical plane of a modern containership is considered. The third objective is to describe the implementation of the resulting model in the standard simulation environment Matlab/Simulink.     

基于支持向量机预测安达曼海南部内孤立波传播特性

内孤立波是发生在密度稳定层化海水中的一种特殊的海洋内波.预测内孤立波传播难度较大.本文提出了一种方法,利用美国麻省理工学院大气环流模型(MITgcm)的内孤立波模型计算了大量模拟数据,建立数据库.采用机器学习的方法,建立一个基于支持向量机(support vector machine,SVM)的安达曼海南部内孤立波传播...     

奉化江中心城区段二维动床水流泥沙数值模型的求解及应用

根据感潮河段的水力特性,以奉化江中心城区段为例,建立一套完善的二维动床水流泥沙数值模型,对其建立和求解的基本思路进行了叙述,研究分析感潮河道的河势演变情况和冲淤变化,预测涉河工程建成后河段可能的演变趋势和对取排水工程、堤防安全、防汛抢险、现有和规划的防洪标准及水利工程的影响。本模型经过多次实测涨、落潮验证后,分别在奉化江解放南路桥、绕城高速公路跨奉化江大桥等5处洪水影响评估中得到了广泛应用和验证,在惊架桥洪水评估中同时采用物理模型对本模型进行验证,两者结果非常接近。本模型可以为水利部门评估涉河工程提供咨询服务。     

Analysis of shallow-water experimental acoustic data including acomparison with a broad-band normal-mode-propagation model

Channel temporal variability, resulting from fluctuations in oceanographic parameters, is an important issue for reliable communications in shallow-water-long-range acoustic propagation. As part of an acoustic model validation exercise, audio-band acoustic data and oceanographic data were collected from shallow waters off the West Coast of Scotland. These data have been analyzed for temporal effects. The average impulse response for this channel has been compared with simulations using a fast broad-band normal-mode propagation model. In this paper, we also introduce a novel technique for estimating and removing the bistatic reverberation contribution from the data. As propagation models do not necessarily account for reverberation, it has to be extracted from the signals when comparing measured and modeled transmission loss     

Cyclone induced storm surge and flood forecasting in the northern Bay of Bengal

A cyclone induced storm surge and flood forecasting system that has been developed for the northern Bay of Bengal is presented. The developed system includes a cyclone forecasting model that uses statistical models for forecasting of the cyclone track and maximum wind speed, and an analytical cyclone model for generation of cyclone wind and pressure fields. A data assimilation system has been developed that allows updating of the cyclone parameters based on air pressure and wind speed observations from surface meteorological stations. The forecasted air pressure and wind fields are used as input in a 2D hydrodynamic model for forecasting storm surge levels and associated flooding. An efficient uncertainty prediction procedure based on Harr's point estimation method has been implemented as part of the forecasting system for prediction of the uncertainties of the forecasted storm surge levels and inundation areas caused by the uncertainties in the cyclone track and wind speed forecasts. The developed system is applied on a severe cyclone that hit Bangladesh in April 1991. The simulated storm surge and associated flooding are highly sensitive to the cyclone data. The cyclone data assimilation system provides a more accurate cyclone track when the cyclone approaches the coastline, which results in a significant improvement of the storm surge and flood predictions. Application of the uncertainty prediction procedure shows that the large uncertainties of the cyclone track and intensity forecasts result in large uncertainties of the forecasted storm surge levels and flood extend. The forecasting system shows very good forecasting capabilities up to 24 h before the actual landfall.     

斜坡平台波浪破碎数值模拟

波浪在斜坡地形上破碎,破波后稳定波高多采用物理模型试验方法进行研究,利用近岸波浪传播变形的抛物型缓坡方程和波能流平衡方程,导出了适用于斜坡上波浪破碎的数值模拟方法。首先根据波能流平衡方程和缓坡方程基本型式分析波浪在破波带内的波能变化和衰减率,推导了波浪传播模型中波能衰减因子和破波能量流衰减因子之间的关系;其次,利用陡坡地形上的高阶抛物型缓坡方程建立了波浪传播和波浪破碎数学模型;最后,根据物理模型试验实测数据对数值模拟的效果进行验证。数值计算与试验资料比较表明,该模型可以较好地模拟斜坡地形的波浪传播波高变化。     

Optimum design height of cofferdams

The cost of Cofferdams as a function of design height is described by a basic lot size model. The cost components include construction and flooding risk cost, the former increases while the latter decreases with design height. Using an exponential function for the expected number of floods, together with Poisson assumptions, an expression is derived for the probability of no flooding. From this expression a reliability chart is constructed that can be used to estimate the flooding risk for a given design height and period. By minimizing the cost objective function, a design chart is also presented giving optimum design height in terms of parameters such as: estimated daily flooding cost, construction cost per unit height, average flood duration, mean and variance of the hydrological data. Sensitivity of the solution to errors in estimating model parameters is discussed.     

Near-optimal control of a wave energy device in irregular waves with deterministic-model driven incident wave prediction

This paper investigates wave-by-wave control of a wave energy converter using incident wave prediction based on up-wave surface elevation measurement. The goal of control is to approach the hydrodynamically optimum velocity leading to optimum power absorption. This work aims to study the gains in energy conversion from a deterministic wave propagation model that accounts for a range of group velocities in deriving the prediction. The up-wave measurement distance is assumed to be small enough to allow a deterministic propagation model, and further, both wave propagation and device response are assumed to be linear. For deep water conditions and long-crested waves, the propagation process is also described using an impulse response function (e.g. [1]). Approximate low and high frequency limits for realistic band-limited spectra are used to compute the corresponding group velocity limits. The prediction time into the future is based on the device impulse response function needed for the evaluation of the control force. The up-wave distance and the duration of measurement are then determined using the group velocity limits above.A 2-body axisymmetric heaving device is considered, for which power capture is through the relative heave oscillation between the two co-axial bodies. The power take-off is assumed to be linear and ideal as well as capable of applying the necessary resistive and reactive load components on the relative heave oscillation. The predicted wave profile is used along with device impulse response functions to compute the actuator force components at each instant. Calculations are carried out in irregular waves generated using a number of uni-modal wave spectra over a range of energy periods and significant wave heights. Results are compared with previous studies based on the use of instantaneous up-wave wave-profile measurements, both without and with oscillation constraints imposed. Considerable improvements in power capture are observed with the present approach over the range of wave conditions studied.     

A 2DH nonlinear Boussinesq-type wave model of improved dispersion,shoaling, and wave generation characteristics

A modified Boussinesq-type model is derived to account for the propagation of either regular or irregular waves in two horizontal dimensions. An improvement of the dispersion and shoaling characteristics of the model is obtained by optimizing the coefficients of each term in the momentum equation, expanding in this way its applicability in very deep waters and thus overcoming a shortcoming of most models of the same type. The values of the coefficients are obtained by an inverse method in such a way as to satisfy exactly the dispersion relation in terms of both first and second-order analyses matching in parallel the associated shoaling gradient. Furthermore a physically more sound way to approach the evaluation of wave number in irregular wave fields is proposed. A modification of the wave generator boundary condition is also introduced in order to correctly simulate the phase celerity of each input wave component. The modified model is applied to simulate the propagation of breaking and non-breaking, regular and irregular, long and short crested waves in both one and two horizontal dimensions, in a variety of bottom profiles, such as of constant depth, mild slope, and in the presence of submerged obstacles. The simulations are compared with experimental data and analytical results, indicating very good agreement in most cases.     

水东湾地貌形态演变数值模拟

为了研究泻湖型海湾内经常出现的湾中岛的形成机理,应用水平二维潮流、泥沙输移和地形演变耦合模型,对具有典型的沙坝泻湖地貌形态的水东湾的湾中岛的形成和演化进行了数值模拟,成功地模拟出了涨潮三角洲(大洲岛)的形成过程,计算结果与实际地貌形态总体符合。模型中分别考虑了全沙输沙和推移质输沙两种输沙情况。结果表明,水东湾湾中岛是由涨潮流引起的泻湖内泥沙不断淤积而形成的,是一种涨潮三角洲的地貌形态;全沙输沙模式比推移质输沙模式更适合这一地形演化过程的模拟。模拟结果也再现了湾中岛在25 a期间的地形变化过程,这一研究结果为通过计算数值模拟来研究一般海湾的地貌形态的形成机理和演化过程提供了实际算例。     

Process-based modeling of morphodynamics of a tidal inlet system

The morphodynamic evolution of an idealized inlet system is investigated using a 2-D depthaveraged process-based model,incorporating the hydrodynamic equations,Englund-Hansen’s sediment transport formula and the mass conservation equation.The model has a fixed geometry,impermeable boundaries and uniform sediment grain size,and driven by shore-parallel tidal elevations.The results show that the model reproduces major elements of the inlet system,i.e.,flood and ebb tidal deltas,inlet channel.Equilibrium is reached after several years when the residual transport gradually decreases and eventually diminishes.At equilibrium,the flow field characteristics and morphological patterns agree with the schematized models proposed by O’Brien (1969) and Hayes (1980).The modeled minimum cross-sectional entrance area of the tidal inlet system is comparable with that calculated with the statistical P-A relationship for tidal inlets along the East China Sea coast.The morphological evolution of the inlet system is controlled by a negative feedback between hydrodynamics,sediment transport and bathymetric changes.The evolution rates decrease exponentially with time,i.e.,the system develops rapidly at an early stage while it slows down at later stages.Temporal changes in hydrodynamics occur in the system;for example,the flood velocity decreases while its duration increases,which weakens the flood domination patterns.The formation of the multi-channel system in the tidal basin can be divided into two stages;at the first stage the flood delta is formed and the water depth is reduced,and at the second stage the flood is dissected by a number of tidal channels in which the water depth increases in response to tidal scour.