On front slope stability of berm breakwaters

The short communication presents application of the conventional Van der Meer stability formula for low-crested breakwaters for the prediction of front slope erosion of statically stable berm breakwaters with relatively high berms. The method is verified (Burcharth, 2008) by comparison with the reshaping of a large Norwegian breakwater exposed to the North Sea waves. As a motivation for applying the Van der Meer formula a discussion of design parameters related to berm breakwater stability formulae is given. Comparisons of front erosion predicted by the use of the Van der Meer formula with model test results including tests presented in Sigurdarson and Van der Meer (2011) are discussed. A proposal is presented for performance of new model tests with the purpose of developing more accurate formulae for the prediction of front slope erosion as a function of front slope, relative berm height, relative berm width, method of armour stone placement, and hydraulic parameters. The formulae should cover the structure range from statically stable berm breakwaters to conventional double layer armoured breakwaters.     

不同间距大直径圆筒防波堤波压力试验研究

通过开展物理模型试验,进行不规则波作用下不同间距大直径圆筒防波堤的波峰压力分布规律研究,分析了圆筒相对间距、相对水深、波陡等主要影响因素对圆筒波压力的影响规律,并通过波压力试验值与各家理论公式计算值的比较,进行不同间距圆筒波压力的计算方法研究。基于直立墙结构和大尺度孤立墩柱结构波压力公式给出修正系数以及横向衰减函数的拟合公式,用以计算圆筒周身不同位置处的波压力,从而为工程设计和理论研究提供参考。     

Expected Sliding Distance of Vertical Slit Caisson Breakwater

Evaluating the expected sliding distance of a vertical slit caisson breakwater is proposed. Time history for the wave load to a vertical slit caisson is made. It consists of two impulsive wave pressures followed by a smooth sinusoidal pressure. In the numerical analysis, the sliding distance for an attack of single wave was shown and the expected sliding distance during 50 years was also presented. Those results were compared with a vertical front caisson breakwater without slit. It was concluded that the sliding distance of a vertical slit caisson may be over-estimated if the wave pressure on the caisson is evaluated without considering vertical slit.     

Action of Cnoidal Waves on Vertical Walls

Based on the 2nd order cnoidal wave theory, the characters of shallow water standing waves and their action on vertical walls are studied in this paper. The theoretical expressions of the wave surface elevation in front of and the wave pressure on the vertical wall are obtained. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests were made in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering at DUT. For the wave surface elevation in front of the wall and the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes down to the bottom of the wave trough, the calculated results coincide quite well with the experimental results. For the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes up to the top of the wave crest, the theoretical expressions are modified by the experimental results. For the convenience of practical use, calculations are made for the wave conditions which usually occur in enginering practice by use of the inves     

Direct numerical simulation of flow over a slotted cylinder at low Reynolds number

Direct numerical simulation was conducted to investigate the flow past a slotted cylinder at low Reynolds number (Re) of 100. The slotting of cylinder affects the boundary layer separation, vortex formation position, recirculation region length and wake width, which are determined by the type of slit. The streamwise slit (SS1), T-shaped slit (SS3) and Y-shaped slit (SS4) act as passive jets, while the transverse slit (SS2) achieves an alternate self-organized boundary layer suction and blowing. The flow rate in slits fluctuates over time due to the alternate vortex shedding and fluctuating pressure distribution around the cylinder surface. One fluctuation cycle of flow rate is caused by a pair of vortices shedding for SS2, SS3 and SS4, while it is created by each vortex shedding for SS1. The wall shear stress and flow impact on the slit wall partly contribute to the hydrodynamic forces acting on the slotted cylinder. Taking into account the internal wall of slit, the transverse slit plays the best role in suppressing the fluid forces with drag reduction of 1.7% and lift reduction of 17%.     

基于SPH方法的开孔沉箱比尺效应研究

由于在前壁上设置了尺寸较小的孔,开孔沉箱受流体黏性力作用显著,依照弗劳德数相似准则设计模型存在比尺效应。为揭示比尺效应,建立了模拟波浪与开孔沉箱相互作用的光滑粒子流体动力学(SPH)模型。其中流体运动由连续性方程和Navier-Stokes方程控制,固壁边界由改进的动力边界粒子施加。模型收敛性通过分析不同粒子分辨率下的波浪反射系数得到,模型精度通过比较计算与理论波浪反射系数证明。使用经过验证的SPH模型,计算并比较了不同几何比尺和开孔率下开孔沉箱附近的涡量场、箱体外侧的波面时程曲线和波浪反射系数。结果表明,随着模型几何比尺的减小,开孔沉箱受到偏大的流体黏性力,致使更多波能在湍流运动中耗散,进而减小了波浪反射系数并降低了箱体外侧的波面高度。     

Experimental investigation of tsunami bore impact pressure on a perforated seawall

Catastrophic failures of many tsunami barriers along the affected coasts during the 2011 Tohoku earthquake tsunami has prompted extensive investigation into improving and revising design codes for tsunami defence structures. To date, researchers and coastal engineers are investigating to understand the failure mechanisms and to find solutions so that the structures merely remain intact in the extreme event such as tsunami. Thus, the present work is motivated to experimentally study tsunami-induced bore pressures exerted on vertical seawalls; a solid vertical wall and a porous vertical seawall that consisted of a perforated front wall and a solid rear wall. Bores with various heights and velocities were generated by using the dam-break method. A porous seawall with 20% porosity of perforated front wall was used in this study. Bore pressures exerted on the solid rear wall and chamber oscillations that occurred in the experiments were also discussed. The experimental results showed that multiple peak pressures were observed during bore run-up phase in the time series of bore impacts. A predictive equation to estimate the maximum bore pressure on a perforated seawall was developed using multiple regression analysis. The proposed equation was also compared with previous empirical formulas.     

The force of oblique incident wave on the breakwater with a partially perforated wall

1 IntroductionRecently breakwaters with perforated front wallshave been widely used. The use of perforated break-waters mainly has two advantages. Firstly, wave forcesacting on the whole structure can be divided into twoparts on two different walls with a phase difference.To select the distance between the two plates suitably,the total wave force on the whole structure can bemaintained at a low level. Secondly, waves will dissi-pate when they transmit over a porous medium. Thus,the reflection…     

Wave radiation by a uniform cylinder in front of a vertical wall

In this paper, an exact analytical method is developed for the problem of wave radiation by a uniform cylinder in front of a vertical wall. Based on the image principle, the hydrodynamic problem of a cylinder in front of a vertical wall is transformed into the equivalent problem of double cylinders in unbounded fluid domain. Consequently, an analytical method of eigenfunction expansion is adopted to calculate the radiation of the cylinder due to the motion in surge, sway, roll and pitch, respectively. Moreover, numerical analysis has been carried out in detail in order to discuss the influences of the distance between the cylinder and the vertical wall and water depth on the added mass and radiation damping of the cylinder. It is shown that added mass and damping of the cylinder in front of a vertical wall are evidently different from those in case of the cylinder in unbounded fluid domain from the numerical results. It is also found that the added mass and radiation damping oscillate with wave number, and the oscillating frequency increases with the increasing of the distance between the cylinder and the wall.     

中长周期波作用下的斜坡堤胸墙波浪力试验研究

在印度洋、大西洋沿岸,海岸工程设计波浪周期多在14 s以上,具有显著的中长周期波特征。通过以往工程项目的试验结果发现中长周期波下,规范计算的斜坡堤胸墙波浪力明显小于试验结果。因此,通过系列物理模型试验研究了中长周期波下的斜坡堤胸墙波浪力。分析斜坡坡度、肩台宽度和波浪条件对胸墙波浪力的影响。通过将试验结果与我国现有规范中的经验公式计算所得结果进行对比,发现规范更适用于胸墙底淹没的情况,而对于肩台出水情况,规范计算结果小于试验结果。由此提出了一种新的波浪力计算方法,计算准确度得到明显提高。     

波浪在Jarlan型开孔潜堤上的运动

The wave motion over a submerged Jarlan-type breakwater consisting of a perforated front wall and a solid rear wall was investigated analytically and experimentally. An analytical solution was developed using matched eigenfunction expansions. The analytical solution was confirmed by previously known solutions for single and double submerged solid vertical plates, a multidomain boundary element method solution, and experimental data. The calculated results by the analytical solution showed that compared with double submerged vertical plates, the submerged Jarlan-type perforated breakwater had better wave-absorbing performance and lower wave forces. For engineering designs, the optimum values of the front wall porosity, relative submerged depth of the breakwater, and relative chamber width between front and rear walls were 0.1–0.2, 0.1–0.2, and 0.3–0.4, respectively. Interchanging the perforated front wall and solid rear wall may have no effect on the transmission coefficient. However, the present breakwater with a seaside perforated wall had a lower reflection coefficient.     

A new formula for front slope recession of berm breakwaters

The front slope stability of breakwaters with a homogeneous berm was studied in a large number of two dimensional model tests at Aalborg University, Denmark. The results are presented together with a new formula for prediction of the berm recession which is the most important parameter for describing the reshaping. The formula has also been calibrated and validated against model test data from other researchers. The significance of the new design formula is that it predicts berm recession much better than the existing methods, especially in case of more stable structures.     

Calculation of Wave Pressure and Pressure Spectrum for Perforate-Pipe Breakwater

Standing waves are formed due to the reflection when waves meet vertical wall,thereforestrong structures are needed to keep the wall stability under the serious wave attack.For the improvementof the working condition and increase of the stability of the wall,the lower reflecting breakwaters have at-tracted close attention Reports mostly from Japanese researchers are often concerned with the wall ofcaisson equipped with open windows.In this paper a kind of hollow-pipe perforated breakwater is exam-ined which waves may partially perforate into the harbour basin.The wave in front of the wall can onlyform partial standing wave and wave force is reduced obviously.And the theoretical calculation of waveforce and analysis of wave force spectrum are all derived.Comparison between the results from theoreticalcalculation and hydraulic modeling shows reasonable agreement.     

Wave interaction with a perforated wall breakwater with a submerged horizontal porous plate

This study examines the hydrodynamic performance of a new perforated-wall breakwater. The breakwater consists of a perforated front wall, a solid back wall and a submerged horizontal porous plate installed between them. The horizontal porous plate enhances the stability and wave-absorbing capacity of the structure. An analytical solution based on linear potential theory is developed for the interaction of water waves with the new proposed breakwater. According to the division of the structure, the whole fluid domain is divided into three sub-domains, and the velocity potential in each domain is obtained using the matched eigenfunction method. Then the reflection coefficient and the wave forces and moments on the perforated front wall and the submerged horizontal porous plate are calculated. The numerical results obtained for limiting cases are exactly the same as previous predictions for a perforated-wall breakwater with a submerged horizontal solid plate [Yip, T.L., Chwang, A.T., 2000. Perforated wall breakwater with internal horiontal plate. Journal of Engineering Mechanics ASCE 126 (5), 533–538] and a vertical wall with a submerged horizontal porous plate [Wu, J.H., Wan, Z.P., Fang, Y., 1998. Wave reflection by a vertical wall with a horizontal submerged porous plate. Ocean Engineering 25 (9), 767–779]. Numerical results show that with suitable geometric porosity of the front wall and horizontal plate, the reflection coefficient will be always rather small if the relative wave absorbing chamber width (distance between the front and back walls versus incident wavelength) exceeds a certain small value. In addition, the wave force and moment on the horizontal plate decrease significantly with the increase of the plate porosity.     

带横隔板局部开孔沉箱在斜向波作用下的受力研究

基于线性势流假定,对斜向波作用下带横隔板局部开孔沉箱防波堤的水平波浪力进行了理论研究。给出了开孔沉箱法向水平力和横隔板受力的理论计算方法,在极限情况下波浪力的计算结果与文献中的已有结果一致。利用数值算例分析了开孔沉箱总水平力的主要影响因素。开孔沉箱法向总水平力的减小主要集中于结构上半部分波浪影响范围以内。增加单个开孔沉箱的长度有利于减小结构所受总水平波浪力。当波浪入射角或沉箱前开孔墙孔隙影响系数幅值较大时,开孔沉箱横隔板上总水平力的最大值要超过相应的沉箱法向总水平力,此时要注意横隔板的强度问题。     

Analysis of orthogonal wave reflection by a caisson with open front chamber filled with sloping rubble mound

A new combined caisson, including an open window on the front wall and an internal rubble mound with a slope, has been proposed and used in Italy. This study presents a semi-analytical solution to estimate the wave absorbing performance of the new combined caisson with regard to orthogonal wave attack. The internal slope of the rubble mound is assumed to be a series of horizontal steps. Then the matched eigenfunction expansions are used to develop the semi-analytical solution. The square-root singularity of fluid velocity at the upper tip of the front submerged wall is incorporated into the solution to enhance the convergence of calculated results. The new semi-analytical solution is confirmed by an independently developed multi-domain boundary element method solution. Also the predictions of the semi-analytical solution agree reasonably well with experimental data. Based on both the calculations and the experimental data, some useful results are presented for practical engineering.     

海洋锋区的一种声速计算模式及其在声传播影响研究中的应用

利用穿过海洋锋区断面的实测CTD数据,确定了锋面的宽度、所在的位置以及陡度等特征参数,建立了海洋锋区声速计算理论模式。结果表明,此模式可以用来描述选定断面的锋面特性。将理论计算结果与实测数据进行比较,二者符合较好。进而利用二维PE模型,研究了通过海洋锋面的声传播特性。结果表明,在声源深度为50m和发射频率为150 Hz的情形下,对不同接收深度,有锋面与无锋面时传播损失的差别最大约为20 dB左右。     

Theoretical and experimental investigation of a vertical wall response to wave impact

The laboratory and field experiments so far have shown that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical faced coastal structure, the resulting impact pressures may become very severe in magnitude and short in duration. Some experimental evidence in the literature suggests that the structural response to the extremely high magnitude impact forces is only limited. This study is mainly concerned with the comparison of the theoretical and experimental results of a vertical wall response under the wave impact loading. In the dynamic analysis of the wall the classical elastic plate theory is used and the numerical results for the dynamic values of the transverse displacement are obtained by employing the method of finite elements. In the theoretical analyses the experimental pressure histories are used and the theoretical wall deflection histories are compared with the experimental results. The computational and experimental deflection histories exhibit similar patterns. The theoretical maximum wall deflections are mostly found to be slightly smaller than the experimental values.     

斜向不规则波入、反射波分离的实验研究

斜向入射的不规则波在海岸结构物前发生反射形成入、反射波共存的波浪场,对这种物理场的入、反射波的分离是海岸工程研究的一个重要课题.改进了一种可用于斜向入射的不规则波分离的两点法,使得测波阵列的两波高仪可布置在结构物前任何方向上.将此方法应用于三维波浪水池的物理模型试验研究,试验了不同的两波高仪的组合、不同的基床高度、不同的入射方向和不同的波浪要素等各种条件对分离结果的影响,结果表明,各种情况在满足非奇异条件下可得到较好的分离结果.该方法计算简便,可以给出较准确的反射系数和入、反射波的频谱.     

An experimental study on the reshaping of berm breakwaters under irregular wave attacks

The main idea concerned with the design of berm breakwaters is to construct a less expensive structure with reshaping berm. An experimental study on the front slope stability of homogeneous berm breakwaters has been carried out in a large number of 2D model tests at Tarbiat Modares University. In this paper, the results of this experimental study are presented conjointly with a formula for estimation of berm recession as the most important parameter for describing the reshaping. This includes the influence of wave height and period, storm duration, berm width and elevation variations on the stability of berm breakwater with different armor stone sizes. A total of 222 tests have been performed to cover the impact of these parameters. According to the present research, one can observe that considering different armor stone sizes, berm width is a significant parameter concerning reshaping of a berm breakwater that has not been covered in previous works, so that as the berm width increases the amount of berm recession decreases. To assess the validity of the present formula, comparisons are made between the estimated berm recessions by this formula and formulae given by other researchers, showing that the estimation procedure foretells berm recession well according to the present data. It is observed that the recession estimated by the present formula has comparatively better correlation with the present experimental data, and also with other experimental results within the range of parameters tested.