Swell impact on reef sedimentary processes: A case study of the La Reunion fringing reef

Two surface‐sediment sampling campaigns were carried out in November and December 2003, before and after a strong swell event, in the back‐reef area of a microtidal fringing reef on the western coast of La Reunion, Indian Ocean. The spatial distributions of the mean grain size, sorting and skewness parameters are determined, and grain‐size trend analysis is performed to estimate the main sediment transport pathways in the reef. The results of this analysis are compared with hydrodynamic records obtained in the same reef area during fair weather conditions and during swell events. Sediment dynamics inferred from the hydrodynamic records show that significant sediment erosion and transport occur only during swell events and under strongly agitated sea states. Under normal wave conditions, there is a potential for onshore sediment transport from the reef‐flat to the back‐reef, but this transport is episodic and occurs principally during high‐tide stages. Sediment transport trends revealed by the grain‐size trend analysis method show onshore and alongshore low‐energy transport processes that are in agreement with the hydrodynamic records. The grain‐size trend analysis method also provides evidence of an offshore high‐energy transport trend that could be interpreted as a real physical process associated with return flow from the shore to the reef. The impact of swell on the reef sediment dynamics is clearly demonstrated by onshore and alongshore transport. Considering different combinations of the vector transport trends computed through the grain‐size trend analysis approach, more realistic and pertinent results can be obtained by applying an exclusive OR operation (XOR case) on the vectors. The main results presented here highlight a trend towards the accumulation of carbonate sands in the back‐reef area of the fringing reef. These sediments can only be resuspended during extreme events such as storms or tropical cyclones.     

渤海湾西岸海岸带现代地质作用及影响因素分析

通过对渤海湾西岸粉砂淤泥质海岸带的现代地质作用调查与分析,阐述了渤海湾海岸带在现代地质作用下侵蚀和淤积并存的现状:目前潮间带上部在不断淤高,而潮下带则存在侵蚀,正处于淤蚀过渡期。遥感资料及沉积物粒度的进一步分析,认为渤海湾西岸现代地质作用的影响因素及海岸带淤积泥砂主要来自岸滩下部及浅海区的侵蚀作用。提出在海岸开发中注意防淤的同时,高度重视侵蚀作用可能对海岸带造成的危害。     

Erosion and accretion rates and their associated sediment characters along Ras El Bar coast,northeast Nile Delta,Egypt

Beach profile data, covering the coast of Ras El Bar, northeast Nile Delta, collected during the years from 1990 to 2002 combined with landsat images for the area and sedimentological investigation have been used to identify beach and nearshore seafloor sediment changes. Along the coast of Ras El Bar, two accretion sectors and one of erosion have been recognized. The first accretion sector is located west of Damietta harbour, where the harbour jetties have halted the littoral transport, while the second one is behind a system of detached breakwaters protecting Ras El Bar resort. Both the two sectors are characterized by growing shoreline with maximum rates ∼15 and 10 m/year, respectively. Also, they have maximum nearshore seafloor accretion rates of ∼18 and 22 cm/year, respectively. The erosion sector is located east of Damietta port and has a maximum rate of shoreline retreat ∼−10 m/year. Erosion of its nearshore seafloor is indicated recording a maximum rate of ∼−20 cm/year. The rate of net sediment volume change in the area indicates shifting of the accretion sector (II) westward, responding to installation of the new breakwaters unit. The two accretion sectors are characterized by dominance of moderately sorted fine sands in their shore area which change seaward into less sorting very fine sands. Beach sands of the eroded sector are poorly sorted medium grain size. The dominant constituents of heavy mineral species in beach and sea-bottom sands are the characteristic assemblages of the Nile deposits. The sands of the eroded zone are relatively enriched in monazite, zircon, tourmaline, garnet, and rutile.     

Magnetic tracing of sediment dynamics of mudbanks off southwest coast of India

In this study, we utilized environmental magnetic in combination with sedimentological and hydrodynamic data to investigate the formative processes of mudbanks along southwest coast of India. We document the linkages between enrichment of silt-sized magnetic particles and formation processes of mudbanks along Alappuzha coast. A trend of increasing magnetite concentration and coarsening in magnetic grain size is observed at mudbank stations M2 and M3, while the mud-deficient station (M1) showed an opposite trend. A strong relationship between magnetic and physical grain size for all samples implies that the magnetic particle size and clastic grain size are largely adjunct. Analysis of rock magnetic and grain size data of surficial and suspended sediments from non-mudbank (M1) and two mudbank stations (M2, M3) reflect the differential sediment partitioning and transport regimes which controlled the formation of mudbanks along Alappuzha coast. Two plausible mechanisms responsible for the formation of mudbanks are identified: grain size-selective entrainment is the dominant process during pre-monsoon; weaker hydrodynamics (waves and bottom currents) favors accumulation of silt-sized (fine and coarse) magnetic and non-magnetic fractions resulting in the formation of magnetically low-enriched sediment bed of mixed grain sizes. At the onset of monsoon, wave-induced energetic bottom currents enhance the suspension of entire sediment bedload at stations M2, M3 to form fluid mud. Concurrently, mineral-density-based selective fractionation allows the settling of coarse silt-sized magnetic particles, while the fine magnetic silt-size particles accumulate forming thick fluid mud as a suspension load resulting in the formation of mudbanks. An observed increase in magnetic susceptibility and coarsening in magnetic grain size of surficial sediments at mudbank stations (M2, M3) during monsoon period supports the interpretation. Our findings are summarized in a conceptual model which can be very well applied to investigate sediment dynamics associated with mudbank formation in coastal and shelf sedimentary systems.     

一种适用于微体古生物沉积动力分析的沉积物粒径指数及其应用例证

微体古生物的沉积动力分析可提取出比单纯的微体古生物分析更多更准的古沉积环境信息。本文提出一种称为“沉积物粒径指数（ｇｓｉ）”的半定量参数，适用于微体古生物的沉积动力学分析研究。长江口及苏北辐射沙洲区的有孔虫分析实例表明这种沉积物粒径指数行之有效。     

Short-term morphological change and sediment dynamics in the intertidal zone of a macrotidal beach

This paper describes the morphological and sedimentological evolution of a macrotidal beach over a 20 day period under varying hydrodynamic conditions (significant breaker heights of 0·3–2 m and tidal ranges of 2–5 m). During the field campaign, an intertidal bar developed around the mid‐tide level, migrated onshore, welded to the upper beach and was then flattened under energetic wave conditions. The bar had a wave breakpoint origin and its formation was triggered by a reduction in tidal range, causing more stationary water‐level conditions, rather than an increase in wave height. Most of the onshore bar migration took place while the bar was positioned in the inner to mid‐surf zone position, such that the bar moved away from the breakpoint and exhibited ‘divergent’ behaviour. The depth of disturbance over individual tidal cycles was 10–20% of the breaker height. Such values are more typical of steep reflective beaches, than gently sloping, dissipative beaches, and are considered to reflect the maximum height of wave‐generated ripples. The grain size distribution of surficial sediments did not vary consistently across the beach profile and temporal changes in the sedimentology were mostly unrelated to the morphological response. The lack of clear links between beach morphology and sedimentology may be in part due to shortcomings in the sampling methodology, which ignored the vertical variability in the sediment size characteristics across the active layer.     

深圳湾西北部海域表层沉积物的分布特征及输运趋势

在深圳湾西北部海域进行表层沉积物取样,通过粒度分析获取沉积物粒度参数。结果表明,该海域中北部沉积物以粉砂为主,分选较差;局部有较粗的砂、砾沉积物分布,分选性差。地质统计分析结果显示,粒度参数半方差—距离的相关性与沉积物粒度参数的空间分布有关,剔除空间“异常”值后,可在半方差图中获取粒度参数的变程值,并将其作为粒径趋势模型的特征距离。粒径趋势分析表明,海湾西部海域的沉积物向东北净输运,深圳河口海域的沉积物偏西向输运,从而在海湾北部近岸海域形成一个沉积物汇聚中心,这与水动力观测结果基本吻合。此外,210Pb测年结果也表明,这个沉积物汇聚中心的沉积速率也相应较高,显示出较强的淤积趋势。     

Sedimentology,ichnology and hydrodynamics of strait‐margin,sand and gravel beaches and shorefaces: Juan de Fuca Strait,British Columbia,Canada

On the south‐west coast of Vancouver Island, Canada, sedimentological and ichnological analysis of three beach–shoreface complexes developed along a strait margin was undertaken to quantify process–response relations in straits and to develop a model for strait‐margin beaches. For all three beaches, evidence of tidal processes are expressed best in the lower shoreface and offshore and, to a lesser extent, in the middle shoreface. Tidal currents are dominant offshore, below 18 m water depth (relative to the mean spring high tide), whereas wave processes dominate sediment deposition in the nearshore (intertidal zone to 5 m water depth). From 18 to 5 m water depth, tidal processes decrease in importance relative to wave processes. The relatively high tidal energy in the offshore and lower shoreface is manifest sedimentologically by the dominance of sand, of a similar grain size to the upper shoreface/intertidal zone and, by the prevalence of current‐generated structures (current ripples) oriented parallel to the shoreline. In addition, the offshore and lower shoreface of strait‐bound beach–shoreface complexes are recognized ichnologically by traces typical of the Skolithos Ichnofacies. This situation contrasts to the dominantly horizontal feeding traces characteristic of the Cruziana Ichnofacies that are prevalent in the lower shoreface and offshore of open‐coast (wave‐dominated) beach–shorefaces. These sedimentological and ichnological characteristics reflect tidal influence on sediment deposition; consequently, the term ‘tide‐influenced shoreface’ most accurately describes these depositional environments.     

黄河三角洲的沉积动力分区

以2000年及2007年黄河三角洲滨海区采集的123和155个表层沉积物样品为数据基础,经实验室分析取得各样品的粒度参数,结合地貌条件、动力条件和水深资料,探讨黄河三角洲滨海区沉积物的分布类型、粒度特征以及其动力分区等方面的规律。黄河三角洲滨海区表层沉积物类型主要为砂质粉砂;中值粒径由岸向海逐渐变细;分选系数整体偏高反映了的复杂性;偏态值均为正,其极高值大都分布于水深10m左右的区域;峰态的极大值分布于现行河口的南侧,极小值分布于湾湾沟口和飞雁滩以东的近岸。Flemming三角图反映出冲蚀区的动力条件整体较强;淤积区内清水沟老河口附近的动力条件比现行河口强;浅海平原区水动力较弱且单一。     

贵州普定碳酸盐岩上覆松散堆积物的沉积环境初探

通过对贵州省普定县马官地区不同地貌部位的4个剖面进行详细的粒度分析,把粒度参数以及频率曲线与各种沉积环境的特征进行对比,排除了河流沉积、风成沉积的可能性。研究区域各剖面的粒度分布特征表明其沉积环境属于碳酸盐岩溶蚀残余风化,同时还有坡面流水和地下水作用的参与。     

珠江河口沉积物粒度特征及其对底层水动力环境的指示

珠江口伶仃洋及邻近海域沉积物粒级变化大。频率分布曲线形态的变化揭示了珠江河口不同区域泥沙来源的差异。在平面分布上,粗粒级含量从西北部和北部向东南部迅速降低,而细粒级含量高值往往出现在河口中部。表层沉积物平均粒径梯度变化方向与珠江口悬浮物的运移方向大致吻合。反演获得的底层海流不同区域的优势速度与实测资料相符。两者较好地指示了沉积物多年平均优势海流速度和方向,表明利用沉积物粒度数据比较成功地反演出了珠江口沉积物推积前的搬运水动力环境。     

Depositional processes beneath coastal multi‐year sea ice

The extent of multi‐year sea ice impacts climate processes worldwide, such as ocean–atmosphere carbon dioxide exchange and deep ocean current formation. Reconstructing these processes in the past, and assessing the distribution of ecologically and climatically significant features, such as polynas, requires recognition of sediments deposited under multi‐year sea ice, but little is known about their characteristics. Textural analysis of subaerial and sea floor sediment in Explorers Cove, McMurdo Sound, at the mouth of Taylor Valley, Antarctica, augmented with observations of sedimentary structures and faunal components, elucidates how sediment is transported to the sea floor and allows characterization of the deposits. Comparison of grain‐size characteristics of subaerial (moraine, delta and sea‐ice surface) sediment and sea floor sediment from short cores taken at depths of 7 to 25 m indicates that the likely source of the moderately to poorly sorted sea floor sand is deltaic sediment; small glacial meltwater streams have built deltas since Taylor Valley became ice‐free ca 7000 years ago. Windblown sediment accumulating on the multi‐year sea ice close to the coast typically is coarser grained than sediment on the sea floor; this suggests that the transport of sediment through the ice to the sea floor is not the predominant mode of sediment transfer. However, supra‐sea‐ice sediment does move to the sea floor through local fractures. The rate of sedimentation under multi‐year sea ice is low because of limited stream flow and biogenic sedimentation; the ice cover inhibits primary productivity and dampens waves, precluding physical re‐suspension. The upper centimetres of sea floor sediment are churned by epifaunal scallops and brittle stars that leave no telltale biogenic structures and whose calcite ossicles and shells may be poorly preserved. The resulting deposits under multi‐year sea ice are poorly sorted, massive sand that provides little evidence of the bioturbators that have masked the indicators of the original physical depositional processes.     

海南四更沙海域沉积物分布及其受控机制

基于海南西部四更沙及其邻近海域185个底质的粒度数据,并结合研究区动力状况和水深地形特征,研究表层沉积物的组分和类型分布、粒度参数及其沉积环境分区。结果表明:①研究区沉积物类型多样,包括12种沉积类型,以砂质粉砂、粉砂、粉砂质砂和含砾砂为主,沉积物平均粒径变化范围较大(-0.70~7.13 φ),且大体呈现由北向南逐渐变细的分布趋势;②运用Fleming的三角图式,结合物源状况及地形地貌条件,对沉积环境进行划分,将研究区划分为四更沙岸外海滨沉积区、北黎湾中部沉积区和八所港近岸沉积区等3个沉积区;③研究区沉积物分布特征受沉积物来源和水动力及地形条件共同影响。横向分布上,西部主要受强潮流输沙影响,东部近岸则主要受波浪掀沙和搬运作用影响,表现为两侧粗,中间相对较细的特征。纵向上,四更沙岸外海滨沉积区,沉积物主要受昌化江影响,粒径粗,表现为河口沉积特征;北黎湾中部沉积区,沉积物粒径分布范围广,表现为较强的过渡区特性;八所港近岸沉积区,沉积物粒径最细,泥沙来源主要为外海带来的泥沙。     

Depositional environment in and around Tamiraparani estuary,and off Tuticorin,Tamil Nadu,India: clues from grain size studies

The sediments of the estuaries and offshore Tuticorin along the southern coast of Tamil Nadu were studied for their textural variation. Ninety sediment samples were collected from three sectors (river, estuary, offshore) on the basis of prevailing energy conditions and oceanographic parameters. Frequency curves show unimodal to bimodal in nature. Offshore samples also fall in bimodal with medium and fine sand where sediment is additionally deposited by the Tamiraparani River. The mean values ranging from 1.69 to 2.01 φ with medium to fine sand. The fine sand in the riverine region indicates the depositional nature of the sediments. In pre-monsoon, the standard deviation ranges from 0.29 to 0.81 φ, which falls in the very well sorted to moderately well sorted. Estuary ranges from 0.63 to 1.30 φ, with moderately sorted, whereas in the marine sediments ranges from 0.4 to 1.01 φ, with moderately to moderately well- sorted and some patches of poorly sorted is observed. In both monsoons, the grain size variations are mostly influenced in river and offshore samples compared to the estuaries. The CM pattern indicates the deposition of sediments in graded suspension. In estuary, the sediments are medium sand with moderately to poorly sorted, fine skewed which are indicative of denudation processes taking place there. In marine, the sediments are medium-to-fine, moderately-to-well sorted, and fine skewed to very fine skewed sediments, probably as a result of the influence of palaeo-sediments deposited by rivers from inland as well as by waves and currents from offshore. Further, the marine samples also highlight depositional processes.     

近期长江口-杭州湾邻近海域沉积物粒径的时空变化及其影响因素

为了研究长江口-杭州湾外近海沉积物粒径的现状和近期变化,于2008年4月在该区域用箱式取样器取得了33个表层样,用震动活塞采样器取得7个柱状样;在室内用激光粒度仪对沉积物样品进行了粒度分析并与历史时期的研究成果进行对比。结果表明,1）表层沉积物总体上呈东粗（砂）西细（泥）的特点,粒径总体上的空间格局与历史时期相似;但砂-泥区界线在研究区北部（长江口和杭州湾外）有向西迁移（蚀退）迹象（西移10~30 km）,而在南部（舟山群岛以南）则出现明显向东迁移（淤进）现象（最大超过50 km）。2）当前的表层沉积物形成一条南北连续的泥质带（粒径向南逐渐变细）,反映过去存在于舟山群岛以东的最细组分（“黏土”）带不连续现象在表层现已趋于消失。3）表层沉积物粒径趋势分析揭示长江入海泥沙的运移方向主要是向南-东南。4）泥质区柱状沉积物具有粉砂和黏土为主但在垂向上（反映在时间上）有粗细多变的特点（侵蚀区表层沉积物有粗化迹象）。研究认为,长江口-杭州湾邻近海域现代沉积物对流域和沿海重大人类活动有较敏感的响应。     

海啸波作用下泥沙运动——Ⅱ.床沙组成变化分析

在波浪水槽实验的基础上,对海啸波作用下的床沙组成变化规律开展研究。实验采用1/10~1/20的组合坡度,选取N波作为入射波。实验对波高进行采集,对波浪的上爬、回落和水跃过程进行拍摄记录,对每个波作用后的地形进行测量,并对初始和最终的床面顶层泥沙进行采样筛分。实验结果表明,N波作用下泥沙在离岸区水跃发生区域堆积,淤积沙坝泥沙粒径呈粗化趋势。同时采用规则波和非规则波进行对比,波浪作用后形成岸滩也为沙坝剖面,淤积沙坝泥沙粒径呈细化趋势,结果均遵循Çelikoğlu提出的泥沙运动的基本规律,细颗粒泥沙会在强烈的紊动作用下从床面中被筛选出来,并被搬运到低紊动地区,此过程造成了剧烈紊动区泥沙的粗化。     

Sediment dispersal and quantitative stratigraphic architecture across an ancient shelf

Two large (200 to 300 km), near‐continuous outcrop transects and extensive well‐log data (ca 2800 wells) allow analysis of sedimentological characteristics and stratigraphic architecture across a large area (ca 60 000 km²) of the latest Santonian to middle Campanian shelf along the western margin of the Western Interior Seaway in eastern Utah and western Colorado, USA. Genetically linked depositional systems are mapped at high chronostratigraphic resolution (ca 0·1 to 0·5 Ma) within their sequence stratigraphic context. In the lower part of the studied interval, sediment was dispersed via wave‐dominated deltaic systems with a ‘compound clinoform’ geomorphology in which an inner, wave‐dominated shoreface clinoform was separated by a muddy subaqueous topset from an outer clinoform containing sand‐poor, gravity‐flow deposits. These strata are characterized by relatively steep, net‐regressive shoreline trajectories (>0·1°) with concave‐landward geometries, narrow nearshore belts of storm‐reworked sandstones (2 to 22 km), wide offshore mudstone belts (>250 km) and relatively high sediment accumulation rates (ca 0·27 mm year^?1). The middle and upper parts of the studied interval also contain wave‐dominated shorefaces, but coeval offshore mudstones enclose abundant ‘isolated’ tide‐influenced sandstones that were transported sub‐parallel to the regional palaeoshoreline by basinal hydrodynamic (tidal?) circulation. These strata are characterized by relatively shallow, net‐regressive shoreline trajectories (<0·1°) with straight to concave‐seaward geometries, wide nearshore belts of storm‐reworked sandstones (19 to 70 km), offshore mudstone belts of variable width (130 to >190 km) and relatively low sediment accumulation rates (ca ≤0·11 mm year^?1). The change in shelfal sediment dispersal and stratigraphic architecture, from: (i) ‘compound clinoform’ deltas characterized by across‐shelf sediment transport; to (ii) wave‐dominated shorelines with ‘isolated’ tide‐influenced sandbodies characterized by along‐shelf sediment transport, is interpreted as reflecting increased interaction with the hydrodynamic regime in the seaway as successive shelfal depositional systems advanced out of a sheltered embayment (‘Utah Bight’). This advance was driven by a decreasing tectonic subsidence rate, which also suppressed autogenic controls on stratigraphic architecture.     

Analysing laser‐scanned digital terrain models of gravel bed surfaces: linking morphology to sediment transport processes and hydraulics

The grain‐scale topography of a sediment surface is a key component of a fluvial system, affecting aspects including sediment transport, flow resistance and ecology. However, its effect is hard to quantify because of the need for grain‐scale elevation data from in situ fluvial gravel surfaces which are difficult to collect. The sediment surface properties are, therefore, commonly estimated as a function of the sediment grain‐size distribution; however, because of additional factors, such as grain packing and shape, there is not necessarily a unique relationship between the two. A new methodology has been developed that uses terrestrial laser scanning to collect grain‐scale topographic data from in situ fluvial gravel surfaces, from which digital terrain models are created. This paper investigates methods of analysing such digital terrain models, and possible sedimentological interpretations that can be drawn from the analysis. Eleven digital terrain models from exposed gravel surfaces in two contrasting rivers (the River Feshie and Bury Green Brook) were analysed by calculating: the distribution of surface elevations, semivariograms, surface inclinations, surface slopes and aspects and grain orientation. The distribution of surface elevations and surface slope and aspect analysis were found to be most informative. In the River Feshie, grain‐size was interpreted as being a dominant control on sediment surface structure and gravel imbrication was identified. In Bury Green Brook, the location of the digital terrain models within the riffle–pool sequence was the dominant control on surface structure and grain orientation. Such digital terrain models therefore provide a new approach to measuring and quantifying the topography of fluvial sediment surfaces.     

Variations in the architecture of hydraulic‐jump bar complexes on non‐eroding beds

Sediment accumulation downstream of hydraulic jumps can occur in many settings but the architectures of such deposits are poorly documented. Here, three flume runs were used to examine the influence of sediment grain size and transport rate on the characteristics of hydraulic‐jump unit bars. In one of these runs six hydraulic‐jump unit bars formed a hydraulic‐jump bar complex. In another, the same sediment was supplied more quickly and only two unit bars formed. In the third run with the same sediment supply rate, but different grain size, only one large unit bar formed. All unit bars developed in a similar way but their size and internal architecture differed; they all resulted from a reduction in sediment transport capacity at the transition from supercritical flow to subcritical flow in the hydraulic jump. After initial onset of sedimentation and unit bar formation, generation of subsequent unit bars may be: (i) related to small changes in sediment flux; and (ii) independent of changes in the hydraulic jump. Continued sedimentation caused changes from oscillating to weak hydraulic jumps and hydraulic‐jump unit bars formed in both circumstances. The flow of water and suspended sediment becomes shallower over the lee of the bar complex. This leads to flow acceleration and a return to supercritical flow conditions. In turn, a chain of such features can form and generate a chute and pool bed morphology. There is an inherent upper size limit to a hydraulic‐jump bar complex due to the changing flow conditions over the growing deposit as the water above it becomes shallower. There is also an amplitude minimum for the development of foresets and subsequent unit bar growth. Hydraulic‐jump unit bars have architectures that should be recognizable in the rock record and because their size is constrained by the flow conditions, their identification should be useful for interpreting palaeoenvironment.     

台风风暴潮影响下潮滩沉积动力模拟初探--以江苏如东海岸为例

以江苏如东潮滩为研究区,采用沉积动力学垂向二维概念模型来模拟正常天气和台风期间潮滩沉积的空间分布特征,探讨台风风暴潮对潮滩正常沉积层序的改造作用.模拟结果表明,在涨落潮时间-流速对称特征明显的如东海岸,潮汐作用使潮滩沉积呈显著的分带性,且剖面形态向“双凸形”演化,两个“凸点”分别位于平均高潮位和平均低潮位附近.在台风期间风暴增水效应下,开边界悬沙浓度差异将导致潮滩冲淤和沉积分布格局的变化,潮上带和潮间带上部均堆积泥质沉积物,潮间带中下部在风暴过程中普遍遭受不同程度的砂质沉积物侵蚀或之后堆积泥质沉积物,在沉积层序中形成风暴冲刷面.因此,潮滩的风暴沉积记录存在于潮间带上部或更高部位.以此模型为基础,可进一步综合考虑极浅水边界层水动力结构、沉积物粒度分布变化、波-流联合作用、台风降水、互花米草等生物活动、潮沟摆动及人工围垦等因素,从而建立风暴事件在沉积层序中的时间序列,更好地解译沉积记录中的古环境信息.