Numerical simulation of wave overtopping of coastal structures using the non-linear shallow water equations

A one-dimensional high-resolution finite volume model capable of simulating storm waves propagating in the coastal surf zone and overtopping a sea wall is presented. The model (AMAZON) is based on solving the non-linear shallow water (NLSW) equations. A modern upwind scheme of the Godunov-type using an HLL approximate Riemann solver is described which captures bore waves in both transcritical and supercritical flows. By employing a finite volume formulation, the method can be implemented on an irregular, structured, boundary-fitted computational mesh. The use of the NLSW equations to model wave overtopping is computationally efficient and practically flexible, though the detailed structure of wave breaking is of course ignored. It is shown that wave overtopping at a vertical wall may also be approximately modelled by representing the wall as a steep bed slope. The AMAZON model solutions have been compared with analytical solutions and laboratory data for wave overtopping at sloping and vertical seawalls and good agreement has been found. The model requires more verification tests for irregular waves before its application as a generic design tool.     

Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.     

A modified Euler–Lagrange transformation for particle orbits in nonlinear progressive waves

This paper presents a modified Euler–Lagrange transformation method to obtain the third-order trajectory solution in a Lagrangian form for the water particles in nonlinear water waves. We impose the assumption that the Lagrangian wave frequency is a function of wave steepness and an arbitrary vertical position for each water particle. Expanding the unknown function in a small perturbation parameter and using a successive expansion in a Taylor series for the water particle path and the period of a particle motion, the third-order asymptotic expressions for the Lagrangian particle trajectories, the mass transport velocity and the period of particle motion can be derived directly in Lagrangian form. The wave frequency and mean level of the particle motion in Lagrangian form differ from those of the Eulerian. Finally, the third-order asymptotic solution obtained is uniformly valid in contrast with early works containing resonant terms presented by Wiegel [1964. Oceanographical Engineering. Prentice-Hall, New Jersey, pp. 37–40] (Eqs. (B.1) and (B.1), (B.2) in Appendix B) or Chen et al.[2006. Theoretical analysis of surface waves shoaling and breaking on a sloping bottom. Part 2 nonlinear waves. Wave motion, 43, 356–369] based on a straightforward expansion for two-dimensional progressive waves.     

Laboratory modeling of the propagation of periodic internal waves over bottom slopes

The experimental investigation of the run-up of periodic internal waves in a two-layer fluid on the coastal slope is performed in an open hydrochannel at the Physical Department of the Lomonosov Moscow State University. The waves are produced by a wave generator. We study the transformation of waves, the vertical structure of the field of velocities of mass transfer, and the behavior of the parameters of internal waves propagating over the sloping bottom. It is shown that the run-up and breaking of internal waves are accompanied by periodic emissions of portions of the heavier fluid from the bottom layer upward along the slope. The Stokes drift velocity changes its sign as a function of depth. Moreover, both the wave length (the horizontal distance between the neighboring crests) and the height of waves over the sloping bottom (the elevation of the crest over the slope along the vertical) decrease as the wave approaches the coast.     

Modeling wave�Ccurrent bottom boundary layers beneath shoaling and breaking waves

The boundary layer characteristics beneath waves transforming on a natural beach are affected by both waves and wave-induced currents, and their predictability is more difficult and challenging than for those observed over a seabed of uniform depth. In this research, a first-order boundary layer model is developed to investigate the characteristics of bottom boundary layers in a wave–current coexisting environment beneath shoaling and breaking waves. The main difference between the present modeling approach and previous methods is in the mathematical formulation for the mean horizontal pressure gradient term in the governing equations for the cross-shore wave-induced currents. This term is obtained from the wave-averaged momentum equation, and its magnitude depends on the balance between the wave excess momentum flux gradient and the hydrostatic pressure gradient due to spatial variations in the wave field of propagating waves and mean water level fluctuations. A turbulence closure scheme is used with a modified low Reynolds number k-ε model. The model was validated with two published experimental datasets for normally incident shoaling and breaking waves over a sloping seabed. For shoaling waves, model results agree well with data for the instantaneous velocity profiles, oscillatory wave amplitudes, and mean velocity profiles. For breaking waves, a good agreement is obtained between model and data for the vertical distribution of mean shear stress. In particular, the model reproduced the local onshore mean flow near the bottom beneath shoaling waves, and the vertically decreasing pattern of mean shear stress beneath breaking waves. These successful demonstrations for wave–current bottom boundary layers are attributed to a novel formulation of the mean pressure gradient incorporated in the present model. The proposed new formulation plays an important role in modeling the boundary layer characteristics beneath shoaling and breaking waves, and ensuring that the present model is applicable to nearshore sediment transport and morphology evolution.     

A Three-Point Method for Separating Incident and Reflected Waves over A Sloping Bed

This study presents a three-point method for separating incident and reflected waves to explain normally incident waves' propagating over a sloping bed. Linear wave shoaling is used to determine changes in wave amplitude and phase in response to variations of bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient and incident amplitude are estimated from wave heights measured at three fixed wave gauges with unequal spacing. Sensitivity analysis demonstrates that the proposed method can predict the reflection and amplitude of waves over a sloping bed more accurately than the two-point method.     

Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part I. Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves

This is the first of three papers on the modelling of various types of surf zone phenomena. In this first paper, part I, the model is presented and its basic features are studied for the case of regular waves. The model is based on two-dimensional equations of the Boussinesq type and it features improved linear dispersion characteristics, possibility of wave breaking, and a moving boundary at the shoreline. The moving shoreline is treated numerically by replacing the solid beach by a permeable beach characterized by an extremely small porosity. Run-up of nonbreaking waves is verified against the analytical solution for nonlinear shallow water waves. The inclusion of wave breaking is based on the surface roller concept for spilling breakers using a geometrical determination of the instantaneous roller thickness at each point and modelling the effect of wave breaking by an additional convective momentum term. This is a function of the local wave celerity, which is determined interactively. The model is applied to cross-shore motions of regular waves including various types of breaking on plane sloping beaches and over submerged bars. Model results comprise time series of surface elevations and the spatial variation of phase-averaged quantities such as the wave height, the crest and trough elevations, the mean water level, and the depth-averaged undertow. Comparisons with physical experiments are presented. The phaseaveraged balance of the individual terms in the momentum and energy equation is determined by time-integration and quantities such as the cross-sectional roller area, the radiation stress, the energy flux and the energy dissipation are studied and discussed with reference to conventional phase-averaged wave models. The companion papers present cross-shore motions of breaking irregular waves, swash oscillations and surf beats (part II) and nearshore circulations induced by breaking of unidirectional and multidirectional waves (part III).     

Mathematical analysis of long-wave breaking on open channels with bottom friction

In this paper we study the breaking of long waves propagating along an open channel with linear friction on the bottom. The equations governing the wave propagation consist of a pair of first-order nonlinear hyperbolic partial differential equations (PDEs). We first transformed the PDEs into a pair of ordinary differential equations (ODEs) along the characteristic directions by means of a pair of Riemann invariants. By analyzing the ODEs, we found that the breaking of waves can be identified by the singularity of the derivative of the Riemann invariants. Thus, we derived an analytical solution for the derivative of the Riemann invariants. Then, a breaking criterion and an analytical formula for the estimation of breaking time were developed and validated through numerical experiments. It is also shown in the paper that the present model includes the previous model neglecting bottom friction as a special case.     

Sediment grains moved by passing tsunami waves: Tsunami deposits in deep water

Tsunamis propagating in the open ocean have associated horizontal particle velocities that do not change with depth — yet the limiting water depth where a tsunami of given characteristics will initiate sediment motion remains unknown. Based upon linear wave theory and a parametrization of the Shields curve, equations are derived and solved, using an iterative scheme, to address the topic of grain movement by tsunami waves as a function of water depth and wave amplitude. The focus is on waves in deep water where tsunami waves behave linearly and on non-cohesive sediment grains. Furthermore, the question is addressed of which grain sizes are picked up on a sloping beach as the wave shoals. According to the results, even the Boxing Day tsunami in 2004 was incapable of moving fine sand in water deeper than 985 m in the Bay of Bengal and 335 m in the Indian and Pacific oceans. The results suggest that tectonic tsunamis of size equal to or smaller than the Boxing Day tsunami cannot initiate motion of deep-water cohesionless sediments that can be correlated on an oceanic basin-wide scale.     

Second-Order Analytic Solutions of Nonlinear Interactions of Edge Waves on A Plane Sloping Bottom

Based on the full water-wave equation,a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper.For special case of slope angle β=π/2,this solution can reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline.Interactions between two edge waves including progressive,standing and partially reflected standing waves are also discussed.The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves are also given.The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated,and the corresponding theoretical autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and the second orders are derived.The boundary conditions for the determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested,that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory.Finally some computation results are demonstrated.     

Second-Oorder Analytic Solutions of Nonlinear Interactions of Edge Waves on A Plane Sloping Bottom

Based on the full water-wave equation, a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a constant plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper. For special case of slope angle b=p/2, this solution can be reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline. Interactions between two edge waves including progressive, standing and partially reflected standing waves were also discussed. The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves were also discussed. The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated, and the corresponding theoretical autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and second orders are derived. The boundary conditions for the determining determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested, that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory. Finally some computation results are demonstrated.     

Disintegration of linear edge waves

It is demonstrated that offshore wavenumbers of edge waves change from imaginary wavenumbers in deep water to real wavenumbers in shallow water. This finding indicates that edge waves in the offshore direction exist as evanescent waves in deep water and as propagating waves in shallow water. Since evanescent waves can stably exist in a limited region while propagating waves cannot, energy should be released from nearshore regions. In the present study, the instability region is predicted based on both the full water wave solution and the shallow-water wave approximation.     

Short gravity waves on steady non-uniform currents obtained through up-/downwelling

Small amplitude water waves propagating in a medium with a steady non-uniform current are investigated. The non-uniform current is obtained by up- or downwelling through the horizontal bed. A new locally valid velocity potential correct to the second order is derived describing the combined wave–current motion. From this solution expressions for the local evolution of the wave amplitude and the wave number are extracted. These expressions are compared with the results found using the principle of wave action conservation and the linear dispersion relation, and good agreement is found at small distances compared to the wavelength. Unlike earlier works there is no restriction to deep water. The results valid for deep water are found as a special case of the general solution and agree with the solution found by Longuet-Higgins, M.S. and Stewart, R.W. (1961) The changes in amplitude of short gravity waves on steady non-uniform currents. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 10(4), 529–549. Furthermore, it is shown that the principle of wave action conservation in fact holds for waves propagating in a medium with a steady non-uniform current maintained by up-/downwelling also on finite depth.     

A two-point method for estimating wave reflection over a sloping beach

This work presents a frequency-domain method for estimating incident and reflected waves when normally incident waves’ propagating over a sloping beach in a wave flume is considered. Linear wave shoaling is applied to determine changes of the wave amplitude and phase due to variations of the bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient is estimated using wave heights measured at two fixed wave gauges with a distance. The present model demonstrates a high capacity of estimating reflection and shoaling coefficients from synthetic wave-amplitude data. Sensitivity tests for the present model due to measurement errors of wave amplitudes and distance of two probes can more accurately predict the reflection coefficients. The measurement error of wave amplitude affects more significantly than measurement error of distance of two probes on calculating reflection coefficient of waves over a sloping bed.     

深水斜坡堤胸墙波浪力研究进展

总结了近年来在斜坡堤胸墙前波浪破碎形态、波浪作用分布、胸墙受力设计等方面研究的进展,分析了斜坡堤上胸墙波浪力的计算方法。已有研究工作表明,深水情况下斜坡堤胸墙波浪作用分布与传统的均布形式有差异,《海港水文规范》中关于斜坡堤胸墙波浪力的计算方法在深水中的适用性应进一步研究。     

Trapping mechanism of submerged ridge on trans-oceanic tsunami propagation

Based on the linear shallow water equations,an analytic solution of trapped waves over a symmetric parabolicprofile submerged ridge is derived.The trapped waves act as propagating waves along the ridge and as standing waves across the ridge.The amplitude gets the maximum at the ridge top and decays gradually towards both sides.The decaying rate gets more gently with higher modes.Besides,an explicit first-order approximate dispersion relation is derived to simplify transcendental functions in the exact solution,which is useful to describe trapped waves over shallowly submerged ridges in reality.Furthermore,the trapping mechanism of the submerged ridge waveguides on the trans-oceanic tsunami propagation can be explained by the ray theory.A critical incident angle exists as a criterion to determine whether the wave is trapped.Besides,a trapped parameter γ is proposed to estimate the ratio of the energy trapped by the oceanic ridge if a tsunami is generated at its top.     

波浪周期对防波堤护面块体稳定性影响的试验分析

波浪对斜坡堤护面结构的冲刷破坏作用受诸多因素的影响,如波浪要素、水深条件、坡面角度、护面块体型式等。在进行某项有关斜坡堤护面块体的课题研究中发现,当防波堤断面结构确定后,护面人工块体的稳定性主要取决于波高及波周期的变化。在进行这方面内容设计计算中,通常波高的取值都能给予足够的重视,但波周期对护面块体稳定性的影响容易被忽视。本研究通过物理模型试验,针对波浪周期对斜坡堤护面块体稳定性的影响进行了总结分析,为防波堤设计提供参考。     

A three-point method for estimating wave reflection of obliquely incident waves over a sloping bottom

A three-point method for estimating wave reflection is proposed to account for monochromatic oblique incident waves propagating over a sloping beach. The amplitudes of reflected wave and incident wave are separated using wave amplitudes measured at three fixed wave gauges with a distance. The applicability of the theory is verified by comparing the simulated results with the available theoretical, numerical and experimental results for the estimation of wave reflection. The sensitivity is also tested to provide a more accurate prediction of the reflection coefficient.     

Wave characteristic and morphologic effects on the onshore hydrodynamic response of tsunamis

While the destruction caused by a tsunami can vary significantly owing to near- and onshore controls, we have only a limited quantitative understanding of how different local parameters influence the onshore response of tsunamis. Here, a numerical model based on the non-linear shallow water equations is first shown to agree well with analytical expressions developed for periodic long waves inundating over planar slopes. More than 13,000 simulations are then conducted to examine the effects variations in the wave characteristics, bed slopes, and bottom roughness have on maximum tsunami run-up and water velocity at the still water shoreline. While deviations from periodic waves and planar slopes affect the onshore dynamics, the details of these effects depend on a combination of factors. In general, the effects differ for breaking and non-breaking waves, and are related to the relative shift of the waves along the breaking–non-breaking wave continuum. Variations that shift waves toward increased breaking, such as steeper wave fronts, tend to increase the onshore impact of non-breaking waves, but decrease the impact of already breaking waves. The onshore impact of a tsunami composed of multiple waves can be different from that of a single wave tsunami, with the largest difference occurring on long, shallow onshore topographies. These results demonstrate that the onshore response of a tsunami is complex, and that using analytical expressions derived from simplified conditions may not always be appropriate.