海底沙波特征线的最优方向剖面自动识别方法

海底沙波是发育在近海陆架上的一种常见海底地貌类型,海底沙波特征与运动规律的研究具有重要的科学意义与工程应用价值,沙波脊线与谷线是表征海底沙波的最基本特征,也是精确描述沙波运动的基本参量。本文提出了一种基于复合数字水深模型的沙波特征线自动识别方法——最优方向剖面法,基于水深曲面归算得到最优剖面方向,再依据最优剖面方向求导并判定极值,自动提取沙波形态特征点,最终形成沙波脊线和谷线。以台湾浅滩复合型沙波为例进行对比实验研究,结果表明,该方法能基于不同分辨率的数字水深模型自动准确地提取海底沙波脊线与谷线,勿需设置阈值,地形自动化识别程度得到进一步提升,具有重要的实际应用价值。     

长江口南港航道沙波群研究

本文利用Innerspace449热敏式双频测深仪和GPS(全球定位系统)在长江口南港和南北槽主航道走航观测结果,确认南港(吴淞口以下)上段航道在洪季正常风况下存在尺度较大的沙波群,并对沙波的几何特征、形成条件、迁移速率以及台风后的变化做了初步分析.结果表明:(1)在统计的652个沙波中,平均和最大波长分别为21m和105m.平均和最大波高分别为0.8m和2.7m,波高和波长间具有明显的正相关关系;沙波中72%为单一沙波,复合沙波的波长和沙波指数较大;单一沙波最大、最小和平均沙波指数分别为36.5、11.2和21.8(复合沙波最大可达69.3);随着沙波度的增大,沙波指数呈增大趋势;绝大多数沙波(波高＜1m)是对称或近于对称的,但波高＞1m的沙波通常向海倾斜.(2)沙波沉积物为分选好的细沙,Φ50为2.70.(3)沙波现场水流费劳德数Fr小于0.2,与某些理论相符而与某些水槽实验结果相冲突.(4)大潮和寻常潮一个涨(落)潮过程沙波来回迁移的距离约为1～5m;小潮期间沙波的迁移距离接近0;落潮迁移距离总是大于涨潮.(5)台风后沙波有被掩埋的迹象.结果包括:①沙质床底是形成沙波的重要基础.南北槽虽具有沙波形成的动力条件,但因最大浑浊带发育而造成淤泥质床底,故沙波不发育.②潮汐河口双向流环境下沙波的对称性较好,频繁的水动力变化使沙波的消长和迁移过程更加复杂,但沙波的基本特征和形成条件与单向流河流环境相似.     

海南东方近岸海底活动沙波的地球物理特征及其迁移机制

海南东方近岸海底发育有大量沙波,利用多波束测深、侧扫声呐、浅地层剖面、单道地震资料综合分析了活动沙波的地球物理特征,探讨了沙波的分布特征、迁移机制、活动性及形态演变特征。结果表明,研究区海底沙波分布和规模具有显著空间差异性,大中型沙波主要发育于沙脊上,小型沙波主要发育于沙脊两侧,坑槽区发育近对称沙波,研究区西南部沙波不发育。受潮流和科氏力约束,在海底沙脊西侧沙波迁移方向主要为向北(略偏东),在沙脊东侧主要为向南(略偏西);受地形制约,坑槽区近对称沙波迁移可能停止或方向发生改变。沙波活动性强的标志主要包括:(1)形态呈不对称的"脊尖槽缓",(2)叠置小沙波与沙纹发育,(3)浅部有透明层,(4)陡坡面反射模糊,(5)内部斜交前积结构。分析认为,沙波活动性与其形态密切相关,包括弱运动、强运动、不运动3个演变阶段。     

南海北部东沙群岛西部海域的海底沙波与内波的研究进展

南海北部外陆架和上陆坡分布着大量的各种类型的深水沙波,经过统计,这些沙波的活动性十分迥异,有着不同于浅水沙波的运移机制。基于国内外对该地区沙波研究成果的总结,指出天文潮、风暴潮等因素均不可能造成海底沙波的持续运动。南海北部同时是世界上内波活动最频繁的区域,与沙波活动区存在空间一致性。经过本文的综述分析,南海北部频发的内波可以造成海底的强流,是造成该海域海底沙波活动的主要原因,未来应在此框架理论下,进行相关证实研究。     

海南乐东陆架海底沙波形态特征及活动性研究

利用旁扫声呐、浅地层剖面、测深以及钻探等资料分析了海南岛乐东陆架区海底沙波的形态特征、底质及地层结构;分常态和台风作用两种环境条件。计算了沙波的移动速率.并与海南岛东方陆架区沙波特征进行了对比分析.研究表明:乐东陆架沙波以大型沙丘和小型沙波为主。其剖面都极不对称.沙丘多为新月形,波长多为50～100m,波高多为1～3m,对称系数在6～12之间;小型沙歧脊残多置直线型,波高多在0.1～0.5m之间.研究区沙波活动性较强,常态下迁移速率与东方沙波区西区相同,每年0.06～2m;在台风影响下,沙丘表面活动砂层的移动性增强,在活动砂体迁移的部位则可能出现冲蚀凹坑或沟槽;中小型沙波移动速率骤增,最大可达7～11m/h。     

台湾浅滩海底沙波精细特征、分类与分布规律

迄今由于缺乏高精度的实测水深数据,对台湾浅滩沙波的精细结构缺乏详细的阐述。本文基于多波束实测资料研究台湾浅滩沙波形态的精细特征及其分布规律。多波束探测结果显示:研究区沙波的平均波高达到13.5m,沙波波峰处水深为20.42m,沙波平均波高约为水深的2/3,沙波的波长大多数处于500~700m之间。研究区内主要发育3种类型的沙波,即摆线型沙波、余弦型沙波和双峰型沙波。研究区西部主要发育双峰型沙波,中部则主要发育余弦型和摆线型沙波,而东部主要发育摆线型沙波,整个区域以摆线型沙波为主。海平面波动、台湾海峡复杂的水动力条件以及台湾岛丰富的山溪河流携带的大量沉积物进入海峡,对浅滩区的沙波具有强烈的改造作用。     

现代盐水楔河口湾底沙推移速度的估算方法

沙波是底床沉积物受到由水流和/或波浪产生的剪切作用起动、变形而成的具有不同形状和大小的底形,其代表了流体——沉积物体系的一个基本的动态特征。但Kostaschhuk,R.A.等(1989)认为在河口区直接测量沉积物迁移速率、总量和方向极其困难,而底形迁移可被用于估算作滚动、滑动和跳动的底沙推移速率。另外,河口区的沙波规模较大,沙波的迅速迁移及其伴随的大量底沙推移所带来的危害程度更大。因此,开展对河口区沙波运动速率和底沙推移速率的定量研究,将对认识和提高河口区的工程建设的灾害防治和预测能力具有重要的理论指导意义,并将推进盐水…     

扬子浅滩沙波底形活动性评估

扬子浅滩位于长江口以东,水深40 m左右,普遍发育中小水下沙丘并处于运动状态。按32片沙波参数统计,迁移方向在90°~180°之间,其中150°~180°者占30%,120°~150°者占69%;使用Rubin和改进的Hardisty公式计算,以潮流作用为主的常态海况下,沙波迁移率为19.70 m/a,以浪流为主的暴风浪期间,约为12.72 m/a,一年总迁移率约为32.4 m/a,与世界上若干海底沙波定位观测数据相对比,这一迁移率应属于缓慢—中等的量级。     

两相流模型在南海内孤立波与沙波相互作用中的应用

为研究内孤立波与沙波的相互作用,本文对基于OpenFOAM的SedWaveFoam求解器进行改进,建立了内孤立波-泥沙运动欧拉两相流模型。在利用试验资料对模型进行验证的基础上,在南海北部典型代表性条件下,模拟分析了500 m水深位置沙波床面上内孤立波作用下的水动力变化和泥沙运动。结果表明,内孤立波逐渐离开沙波时,海底沙波背流面处出现与内孤立波背景流速反向的流速,在内孤立波导致的流场作用下,沙波床面上的泥沙悬起并运动到床面以上的水体中。振幅100 m的内孤立波可以导致床面以上14 m高的位置处出现约0.07 kg/m³的悬沙浓度。     

胶州湾湾口海底沙波地形地貌特征及其活动性研究

利用多波束、侧扫声纳以及单道地震资料对胶州湾湾口潮流作用下形成的典型海底沙波地貌的平面形态、剖面特征和分布特点进行了分析研究。根据实测的水文资料计算了不同潮流流速下沙波的瞬时移动速度,推测了直脊型沙波和新月型沙波的形成]化过程:区内新月型沙波在西向优势流的作用下大约以50m/a的速度向西迁移,直脊型沙波则在两端方向不一致的优势流长期作用下,发生逆时针旋转,同时在往复流的作用下以一个平衡位置左右摆动;就地貌形态而言,新月型沙波是不稳定的,直脊型沙波达到相对平衡状态。     

Haeundae Beach in Korea: Seasonal-to-decadal wave statistics and impulsive beach responses to typhoons

Haeundae Beach represents Korean pocket beaches that are currently erosional and dominated by summertime typhoons. The decadal wave characteristics 9 km offshore of Haeundae Beach were analyzed using the WAM model that was validated through the 2007 wave observations. The wave statistics modelled for 1979–2007 indicates that the seasonal mean significant wave height (H _s ) is highest (0.6–0.7 m) in summer due to typhoons, in contrast to the lowest (around 0.5 m) autumn analog. The wave direction is also pronouncedly seasonal with the principal bearings of SSW and NE in the summer and winter seasons, respectively. The WAM results additionally show that the H _s has gradually increased over the region of Haeundae Beach since 1993. Beach profiling during June–November 2014 shows the opposite processes of the typhoon and fair-weather on beach sands. During a typhoon, foreshore sands were eroded and then accumulated as sand bars on the surf zone. In the subsequent fair-weather, the sand bars moved back to the beach resulting in the surf-zone erosion and foreshore accretion. A total of 5 cycles of these beach-wide sand movements yielded a net retreat (up to 20 m) of the shoreline associated with large foreshore erosion. However, the surf zone only slightly accumulated as a result of the sand cycles. This was attributed to the sand escape offshore from the westernmost tip of the beach. The present study may provide an important clue to understanding the erosional processes in Haeundae Beach.     

A representation for the frequency spectrum of wind-generated waves

This paper proposes the following generalized representation for a wind-wave frequency spectrum:

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where E = ∫S(f)df is the variance of the surface displacement; f_m is the frequency of the spectral peak; and C_i's, i = 1,2,3, are dimensionless parameters that can be determined from the internal spectral parameters of a given spectrum.When applied to 234 sets of wave spectra recorded in the Great Lakes, this representation has been realistic, accurate, and capable of representing widely varied wave processes. The C_i's are clearly related to wave growth processes; they are large during early growth, decrease as waves grow, and reach approximate equilibrium when waves are fully developed.     

Improvement of sand activation depth prediction under conditions of oblique wave breaking

This study presents sand activation depth (SAD) measurements recently obtained on two contrasting beaches located along the Atlantic coast of France: the gently sloping, high-energy St Trojan beach where wave incidence is usually weak, and the steep, low-energy Arçay Sandspit beach where waves break at highly oblique angles. Comparisons between field measurements and predictions from existing formulae show good agreement for St Trojan beach but underestimate the SAD on the Arçay Sandspit beach by 40–60%. Such differences suggest a strong influence of wave obliquity on SAD. To verify this hypothesis, the relative influence of wave parameters was investigated by means of numerical modelling. A quasi-linear increase of SAD with wave height was confirmed for shore-normal and slightly oblique wave conditions, and a quasi-linear increase in SAD with wave obliquity was also revealed. Combining the numerical results with previously published relations, both a new semi-empirical and an empirical formula for the prediction of SAD were developed which showed good SAD predictions under conditions of oblique wave breaking. The new empirical formula for the prediction of SAD (Z ₀) takes into account the significant wave height (H _s), the beach face slope (β) and the wave angle at breaking (α), and is of the form $ Z_{0} = 1.6\tan {\left( \beta \right)}H^{{0.5}}_{{\text{s}}} {\sqrt {1 + \sin {\left( {2\alpha } \right)}} } This study presents sand activation depth (SAD) measurements recently obtained on two contrasting beaches located along the Atlantic coast of France: the gently sloping, high-energy St Trojan beach where wave incidence is usually weak, and the steep, low-energy Ar?ay Sandspit beach where waves break at highly oblique angles. Comparisons between field measurements and predictions from existing formulae show good agreement for St Trojan beach but underestimate the SAD on the Ar?ay Sandspit beach by 40–60%. Such differences suggest a strong influence of wave obliquity on SAD. To verify this hypothesis, the relative influence of wave parameters was investigated by means of numerical modelling. A quasi-linear increase of SAD with wave height was confirmed for shore-normal and slightly oblique wave conditions, and a quasi-linear increase in SAD with wave obliquity was also revealed. Combining the numerical results with previously published relations, both a new semi-empirical and an empirical formula for the prediction of SAD were developed which showed good SAD predictions under conditions of oblique wave breaking. The new empirical formula for the prediction of SAD (Z ₀) takes into account the significant wave height (H _s), the beach face slope (β) and the wave angle at breaking (α), and is of the form . The use of a dataset from the literature demonstrates the predictive skill of these new formulae for a wide range of wave heights, wave incidence and beach gradients.     

多向不规则波浪的确定性模拟

波浪波动时间过程及波列的模拟,对于开展实际波浪对于工程建筑物的作用具有重要的意义。本文采用线性叠加的单叠加模型,建立了多向不规则波浪的确定性模拟方法。基于理论模拟的规则波、单向不规则波和多向不规则波,验证了波浪确定性模拟方法的有效性。定性地对比分析了模拟波列和已知波列的一致性;定量地研究了模拟波浪在空间范围rr/L_s的误差分布情况(rr表示指定位置与给定位置的空间距离,L_s为有效波长)。并且建议,采用本文方法进行波浪确定性模拟时,最佳的浪高仪间距应小于0.12L_s。     

Experimental study of irregular wave impact on structures in the splash zone

The experimental investigation of irregular wave slamming on structure members with large dimension in the splash zone is presented. The time-domain and frequency-domain analyses results of the irregular wave impact pressure on the subface of the structure under various case studies are presented. The influence of different incident wave parameters and relative clearance s/H_1/3 on the impact pressure is discussed. The empirical formula of the characteristic impact pressure P_c, P_t and the spectral moment of the impact pressure m₀ on the structure are proposed. The empirical expression of the characteristic peak impact pressure P_c and the spectral moment of the impact pressure m₀ on the structure is given.     

The effect of horizontal Coriolis force on internal wave-mean flow interaction

-In this paper, an improvement and revision of the theory of Miiller (1974, 1976), has been made under two conditions: (1) the horizontal component of the Coriolis force has been taken into account in the equations of motion for the internal wave field; and (2) the role of internal waves with frequencies close to the inertial frequency has been considered. The values of the viscosity coefficients and the diffusivity coefficients obtained in this paper are: Theappearance of the cross-diffusion (vc) of momentum is a natural result from the effect of the horizontal Coriolis force. Therefore the role of the horizontal shear of the mean flow cannot be absolutely separated from that of the vertical shear. So far in testing Muller's theory, the approximation of effective wave stress obtained by Ruddick and Joyce (1979) was extensively used, but it has to be revised under the conditions of this paper. The revised approximation shows that the internal waves with low frequencies close to the inertial frequency pl     

Some properties of surf-beats

Long ocean waves with periods of several minutes (surf-beats) were observed at a marine observation tower. We have analysed time series data of an envelope of incident swell, long period current velocity and surface elevation fluctuations. Current velocity was measued by an electromagnetic flow meter. Surf-beats amplitudeH ^(l) is shown to be proportional to 3/2 power of incident swell amplitudeH ^(s), and decreases with increase of depthh in proportional toh ^–1/2 such thatH ^(l) H ^(s) (H ^(s)/h)^1/2. Frequency energy density functionP _LL (f) of surface elevation had two dominant peaks whose frequencies were highly stable through the entire observational period. Cross-spectral analysis suggested that those peaks correspond to traveling edge waves caused by the excess momentum and mass flux in the surf zone. The forced long ocean waves predicted byLonguet-Higgins andStewart (1964) was ditected. Phase-shift and wave height of the wave with respect to those of incident swell envelope are shown to be in remarkable agreement with the predictions. However the forced long wave is only a minor component in the total energy of surf-beats. Current fields are shown to be largely composed of non-surface modes.     

Electron impact excitation rate coefficients of N II ion

This paper calculates the electron impact excitation rate coefficients from the ground term 2s²2p^{2 3}P to the excited terms of the 2s²2p², 2s2p³, 2s²2p3s, 2s²2p3p, and 2s²2p3d configurations of N II. In the calculations, multiconfiguration Dirac--Fork wave functions have been applied to describe the target-ion states and relativistic distorted-wave calculation has been performed to generate fine-structure collision strengths. The collision strengths are then averaged over a Maxwellian distribution of electron velocities in order to generate the effective collision strengths. The calculated rate coefficients are compared with available experimental and theoretical data, and some good agreements are found for the outer shell electron excitations. But for the inner shell electron excitations there are still some differences between the present calculations and available experiments.     

Modelling of sand transport under wave-generated sheet flows with a RANS diffusion model

A 1DV-RANS diffusion model is used to study sand transport processes in oscillatory flat-bed/sheet flow conditions. The central aim is the verification of the model with laboratory data and to identify processes controlling the magnitude and direction (‘onshore’/‘offshore’) of the net time-averaged sand transport. The model is verified with a large series of measured net sand transport rates, as collected in different wave tunnels for a range of wave-current conditions and grain sizes. Although not all sheet flow details are represented in the 1DV-model, it is shown that the model is able to give a correct representation of the observed trends in the data with respect to the influence of the velocity, wave period and grain diameter. Also detailed mean sediment flux profiles in the sheet flow layer are well reproduced by the model, including the direction change from ‘onshore’ to ‘offshore’ due to a difference in grain size from 0.34 mm (medium sand) to 0.13 mm (fine sand). A model sensitivity study with a selected series of net transport data shows that the stirring height of the suspended sediment ε_s/w_s strongly controls the magnitude and direction of the net sediment transport. Inclusion of both hindered settling and density stratification appears to be necessary to correctly represent the sand fluxes for waves alone and for waves + a superimposed current. The best agreement with a large dataset of net transport measurements is obtained with the 1DV-RANS model in its original settings using a Prandtl–Schmidt number σ_ρ = 0.5.