河口海岸底部边界层和细颗粒泥沙过程??

水动力、细颗粒泥沙过程是淤泥质河口海岸变化的重要物理过程 ;并具有这样的特征 :强密度梯度、高度不稳定和非均匀流、高浓度泥沙、底床与流相互作用、难确定的底床／水界面。淤泥质河口海岸水动力、细颗粒泥沙过程的研究主要起因于：１）海洋科学的基础理论研究 ;２）港口航道的建设、维持（整治、疏浚）、海岸防护工程实践等需要。就淤泥质河口海岸水动力、细颗粒泥沙过程而言 ,水流最重要的部分是底部边界层。为计算河口海岸水流中的底床切应力 ,必需考虑边界层。在淤泥质河口海岸底部边界层内 ,强劲的潮流、波致流可以引起淤泥底床沉积…     

强潮环境下悬沙对底部边界层的影响

对杭州湾金山深槽附近两个定点站位的大潮期间同步水文、泥沙观测结果进行了粉砂分布区再悬浮效应的分析,提出了根据再悬浮过程反演底床切应力的新方法。研究结果表明,在强潮动力、高悬沙质量浓度环境下,即使无密度成层性,悬沙质量浓度对底部边界层的影响仍然存在,表现为底部切应力的减小。在这一条件下,如仍然采用卡门-普朗特模型(κ=0.4),则估算的底部切应力将大大高于实际的数值。     

河口海岸泥沙输移的分组数学模型研究

根据河口海岸水沙输移的特点,建立了一个新的二维分组数学模型,用来预测该区域的水沙输移过程。该模型耦合了水动力模块、泥沙输移模块和床面演变模块。其中水动力模块基于浅水方程组,综合考虑了柯氏力、床面切应力以及表面风应力的影响,引入干湿判断法处理动边界。泥沙输移模块首先将泥沙按照粒径分组,针对不同泥砂性质,对各组泥沙分别进行建模求解。床面演变模块基于质量守恒方程,实时更新床面高程以及床沙级配变化,并传递给水动力模块,更新底部边界。该模型被应用在了英国塞汶(Severn)河口,其预测的泥沙浓度和实测数据以及不分组的模型的预测结果进行了比较,结果显示,文中建立的分组模型预测的结果要明显好于不分组模型。     

潮流波浪联合输沙及海床冲淤演变的理论体系与其数学模拟

根据近岸带及河口区潮流、波浪、湍流各自物理尺度的不同,从Ｎａｖｉｅｒ－Ｓｔｏｋｅｓ方程和质量传输方程出发,利用Ｒｅｙｎｏｌｄｓ分解的方法,建立了模拟波浪 流联合输沙及海床冲淤演变的理论体系,给出了潮流作用下近岸波浪传播方程、波浪作用下潮流运动方程并通过利用波流合成底部切应力、底层湍流脉动随机特性,得出了波流联合作用下不平衡沙计算中泥沙起悬与沉降量的确定方法。本文模型应用于“广西合浦围垦工程潮流波浪     

渤海湾南港工业区港池航道回淤研究

天津南港工业区位于渤海湾典型的淤泥质海岸,其港区为环抱式有掩护的平面布局,规划建设10万吨级航道。为准确预测港池航道的泥沙回淤状况,采用双向嵌套网格建立波浪潮流共同作用下的泥沙运动数学模型,考虑波浪辐射应力作用,以及波浪引起的紊动和波浪增强海床底部切应力对悬沙输移的影响。模型选取现场实测大潮作为代表潮,以工程海域附近测波资料的能量加权平均结果作为代表波,对邻近的天津港15万吨级航道年均回淤进行了验证,确定数学模型中相关泥沙运动与底床冲淤的计算参数。在此基础上,数学模型预测了南港工业区规划的港池航道总的年均回淤量,与天津港主航道资料类比,计算的南港工业区港区10万吨级航道泥沙回淤分布与淤积总量是合理的。     

舟山群岛峡道底部高程及其冲刷对浙闽沿海泥沙供给的影响

根据舟山群岛峡道地区的钻孔资料，在有孔虫、花粉和沉积特性分析结果的基础上，分析了晚更新世海面变化，探讨了晚更新世末期峡道内的地面高程，进而根据海图量算结果，讨论了舟山群岛峡道底部的泥沙冲淤及其对浙闽沿海泥沙供给的影响。本文认为，晚更新世以来舟山群岛地区发生了三次海进海退，其中晚更新世末期低海面时，舟山群岛峡道高程约位于吴淞基面以下３８ｍ左右，全新世海侵以来，受峡道水动力的作用，除部分峡道内海湾发生淤积外，舟山群岛峡道底部发生了明显的冲刷，其最大冲刷厚度可达８０ｍ左右，为杭州湾乃至整个浙闽沿海提供了大量的泥沙     

长江河口波-流共同作用下的全沙数值模拟

针对长江河口地形、水文、泥沙运动等复杂的特点,建立了波-流共同作用下的二维全沙及河床演变模型.在合理计算研究区域流场等的基础上,利用切应力概念确定悬沙扩散方程中的源函数;通过系列数值试验和实测资料的统计分析,在经典的泥沙临界起动速度中引入反映河床底质结构及固结程度的局地系数;选用由流速、盐度、含沙量浓度确定的泥沙颗粒絮凝沉降速度,从而提高长江口悬沙场数值模拟精度.在底沙输运计算中,提出一种较为合理确定有关参数的方法.通过洪、枯季大、中、小潮水文、泥沙资料和典型台风引起航槽冲淤变化的实测资料验证,表明该文提出的模型能较合理地反映长江河口流场、泥沙场及地形的演变.     

单向流定床床面上水平管道周围流场与切应力分布特性

采用简化PIV方法,对悬空比G为0～1.6的单向流定床床面上水平圆柱绕流进行了系统的试验研究.通过对试验资料的分析,给出了圆柱绕流时的流场图和无量纲的床面、横管顶部和横管底部切应力的变化图,讨论了切应力随悬空比、管径、流速和水深的变化趋势.作者的研究成果有利于进一步研究海底管道的冲刷机理和冲刷坑的形成,进而有针对性的进行管道保护,减少管道破坏失效.     

东山湾波浪对悬沙浓度场影响的数值模拟研究

研究了波致底切应力和二维辐射应力对悬沙的作用.首先对东山湾的水动力进行了数值模拟并与实测资料进行了对比检验,然后对东山湾悬浮泥沙进行了考虑波浪和不考虑波浪两种情况下的数值模拟并与实测资料进行了相关对比分析.在模式建立过程中,依据东山湾独特的窄口型半封闭河口海湾的特点,基于ECOMSED模式（2002）建立了东山湾三维水动力模型,并通过第三代海浪模式MASNUM加入了波浪对底切应力及辐射应力的影响,通过ECOMSED中的底边界层模型考虑了波浪增强底摩擦的作用,综合分析了东山湾的水动力及泥沙状况.结果表明在东山湾数值模拟中,该模式能较好地模拟这类海域的水动力及泥沙输运状况.在东山湾模拟计算中,潮流的作用强于波浪的作用,但考虑波浪因素后,泥沙模拟结果更好.在波浪的作用中,底切应力相比于二维辐射应力占有绝对的优势,两者相差2个量级以上,因此可以不考虑二维辐射应力的影响.     

波浪对泥沙作用的数值研究及在渤海区域的检验

针对渤海海域开展了波致底切应力对泥沙作用的数值估计。针对浅水条件,通过理想试验估算了波致底切应力对波流耦合底切应力的贡献。针对渤海大风过程,利用ECOMSED模式,通过波流耦合底边界层模型模拟了渤海区域的泥沙浓度,并利用遥感资料对表层泥沙浓度的数值模拟进行了检验。对比结果表明,考虑波浪作用的情况下,模拟结果在总体分布上得到明显的改善。在大风过程中波浪对0~20 m近岸区域的泥沙再悬浮起主导作用。     

A traversing system to measure bottom boundary layer hydraulic properties

This study describes a new convenient and robust system developed to measure benthic boundary layer properties, with emphasis placed on the determination of bed shear stress and roughness height distribution within estuarine systems by using velocity measurements. This system consisted of a remotely operated motorised traverser that allowed a single ADV to collect data between 0 and 1 m above the bed. As a case study, we applied the proposed traversing system to investigate bottom boundary layer (BBL) hydraulic properties within Coombabah Creek, Queensland, Australia. Four commonly-employed techniques: (1) Log-Profile (LP); (2) Reynolds stress (RS); (3) Turbulent Kinetic Energy (TKE); and (4) Inertial Dissipation (ID) used to estimate bed shear stresses from velocity measurements were compared. Bed shear stresses estimated with these four methods agreed reasonably well; of these, the LP method was found to be most useful and reliable. Additionally, the LP method permits the calculation of roughness height, which the other three methods do not. An average value of bed shear stress of 0.46 N/m², roughness height of 4.3 mm, and drag coefficient of 0.0054 were observed within Coombabah Creek. Results are consistent with that reported for several other silty bed estuaries.     

Estimation of Bed Shear Stresses in the Pearl River Estuary

Mean and fluctuating velocities were measured by use of a pulse coherent acoustic Doppler profiler(PC-ADP) and an acoustic Doppler velocimeter in the tidal bottom boundary layer of the Pearl River Estuary.The bed shear stresses were estimated by four different methods:log profile(LP),eddy correlation(EC),turbulent kinetic energy(TKE),and inertial dissipation(ID).The results show that(a) all four methods for estimating bed stresses have advantages and disadvantages,and they should be applied simultaneously to obtain reliable frictional velocity and to identify potential sources of errors;(b) the LP method was found to be the most suitable to estimate the bed stresses in non-stratified,quasi-steady,and homogeneous flows;and(c) in the estuary where the semi-diurnal tidal current is dominant,bed shear stresses exhibit a strong quarter-diurnal variation.     

Numerical simulation of wave-induced laminar boundary layers

The three-dimensional numerical model with σ-coordinate transformation in the vertical direction is applied to the simulation of surface water waves and wave-induced laminar boundary layers. Unlike most of the previous investigations that solved the simplified one-dimensional boundary layer equation of motion and neglected the interaction between boundary layer and outside flow, the present model solves the full Navier–Stokes equations (NSE) in the entire domain from bottom to free surface. A non-uniform mesh system is used in the vertical direction to resolve the thin boundary layer. Linear wave, Stokes wave, cnoidal wave and solitary wave are considered. The numerical results are compared to analytical solutions and available experimental data. The numerical results agree favorably to all of the experimental data. It is found that the analytical solutions are accurate for both linear wave and Stokes wave but inadequate for cnoidal wave or solitary wave. The possible reason is that the existing analytical solutions for cnoidal and solitary waves adopt the first-order approximation for free stream velocity and thus overestimate the near bottom velocity. Besides velocity, the present model also provides accurate results for wave-induced bed shear stress.     

Simulation of Random Waves and Associated Laminar Bottom Shear Stresses

This work presents a new approach for simulating the random waves in viscous fluids and the associated bottom shear stresses. By generating the incident random waves in a numerical wave flume and solving the unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the fully nonlinear free surface boundaiy conditions for the fluid flows in the flume, the viscous flows and laminar bottom shear stresses induced by random waves axe determined. The deterministic spectral amplitude method implemented by use of the fast Fourier transform algorithm was adopted to generate the incident random waves. The accuracy of the numerical scheme is confirmed by comparing the predicted wave spectrum with the target spectrum and by comparing the nanlerical transfer function between the shear stress and the surface elevation with the theoretical transfer function. The maximum bottom shear stress caused by random waves, computed by this wave model, is compared with that obtained by Myrhaug＇ s model （1995）. The transfer function method is also employed to determine the maximum shear stress, and is proved accurate.     

On the vertical distribution of

The aim of this paper is to present an analytical expression for the vertical distribution of the correlation between the horizontal ( ) and vertical ( ) wave velocity components. This quantity, , which appears explicitly in the time-averaged momentum balance equations, has been shown to play an important role in the vertical distribution of wave-induced currents.The proposed formulation for is based on an identity that relates the effective (wave) shear stress to the effective (wave) normal stresses ( ² and ²) and to the vorticity of the oscillatory flow gw. This general expression has been applied to simplified situations and has been shown to degenerate into other existing formulations with comparable simplifying assumptions, viz. irrotational waves in shallow water over an arbitrary bottom topography and breaking waves over a horizontal bottom.The model has also been applied to the case of waves interacting with a depth-varying current over a horizontal bottom, in which preliminary results have been obtained for a simplified situation invoking linear (small-amplitude) wave theory.     

Intercomparison of wave-driven current models

Seven numerical models which simulate waves and currents in the surf-zone are tested for the case of a reduced-scale detached breakwater subjected to the action of regular waves with normal incidence. The computed wave heights, water levels and velocities are compared with measurements collected in an experimental wave basin. The wave height decay in the surf-zone is predicted reasonably well. Set-up and currents appear to be less well predicted. This intercomparison exercise shows that radiation stresses are systematically overestimated by formulations used in the models, mean bottom shear stresses are not always co-linear with the mean bottom velocity vector in shallow water, and turbulence modelling in the surf-zone requires a sophisticated     

浅水极限波浪几何特征的实验研究

该文通过物理模型实验,对浅水区域内的波浪在破碎前极限状态下的几何特征进行了研究。实验基于JONSWAP谱对不规则波浪进行模拟,通过对波群中出现的单体极限波浪进行捕捉并对波形进行测量而得到研究样本。为了考察底坡因素对极限波浪几何特征的影响,实验共考虑了3组大小分别为β=1/15、1/30以及1/45的地形坡度。统计结果表明,在实验所采用的坡度范围内,当地波高与水深对近岸极限波浪的影响最为显著,随着水深与波高因素变化,极限波浪的几何特征也出现明显的改变。坡度因素对极限波陡和偏度的影响很小,可以被忽略,但是对不对称度参数的影响相对比较明显,坡度越陡,不对称程度越剧烈。最后,通过参数化,本文给出了极限波浪几何特征变化的经验公式。     

Surface gravity wave interaction with elastic bottom

In the present paper, a hydroelastic model is developed to deal with surface gravity wave interaction with an elastic bed based on the small amplitude water wave theory and plate deflection in finite water depth. The elastic bottom bed is modelled as a thin elastic plate and is based on the Euler-Bernoulli beam equation. The wave characteristics in the presence of the elastic bed is analyzed in both the cases of deep and shallow water waves. Further, the linearized long wave equation is generalized to include bottom flexibility. A generalized expansion formula for the velocity potential is derived to deal with the boundary value problems associated with surface gravity waves having an elastic bed. The utility of the expansion formula is illustrated by demonstrating specific physical problems which will play significant role in the analysis of wave structure interaction problems. Behavior of the wave spectra are discussed in the case of closed basin having a free surface and an elastic bottom topography.     

Numerical simulation for the two-dimensional nonlinear shallow water waves

This study deals with the general numerical model to simulate the two-dimensional tidal flow, flooding wave (long wave) and shallow water waves (short wave). The foundational model is based on nonlinear Boussinesq equations. Numerical method for modelling the short waves is investigated in detail. The forces, such as Coriolis forces, wind stress, atmosphere and bottom friction, are considered. A two-dimensional implicit difference scheme of Boussinesq equations is proposed. The low-reflection outflow open boundary is suggested. By means of this model,both velocity fields of circulation current in a channel with step expansion and the wave diffraction behind a semi-infinite breakwater are computed, and the results are satisfactory.