Coastal Erosion Along the West Coast of the Taiwan Strait and It’s Influencing Factors

Based on the field surveys and repeated cross-profile observations combined with the comparison of many years’ topog-raphic maps,this study shows the spatial variability and varying patterns of coastal erosion along the west coast of the Taiwan Strait.Regional differentiation in the Meso-Cenozoic coastal tectonics determined the irregular coastline and geological background for large-scale coastal erosion distribution.The intensity of coastal erosion on the west side of the Taiwan Strait is mild in the nort...     

Numerical Study on Seasonal Transportation of the Suspended Sediments in the Modern Yellow River Mouth Effected by the Artificial Water and Sediment Regulation

Since 2002, an artificial water and sediment regulation(AWSR) has been carried out, which largely reduced water and sediment discharged from the Yellow River into the Bohai Sea. Although the sediment transport in the Yellow River Mouth(YRM) has been observed and modeled intensively since AWSR, but preferentially for the non-storm conditions. In this study, a three-dimensional current-wave-sediment coupled model, DHI-MIKE numerical model, was used to examine the seasonal suspended-sediment transport in the YRM after the AWSR. Results show that the seasonal distribution of suspended-sediments in the YRM is dominated by wind and wave rather than river input. The major transport pathway of suspended-sediments is from the western Laizhou Bay to the Bohai Strait during the winter monsoon, especially in storm events. In addition, about 66% of the river sediments deposit within 30 km of the YRM, which is smaller than previous estimations. It suggests that the YRM has been eroded in recent decades.     

Morphology,sedimentary bedforms and sand transport across a ridge- and- runnel beach under the action of summer waves

As part of a collaborative study between the 3rd Institute of Oceanography, Xiamen, and the U. K. Universities of East Anglia and St. Andrews, a 4-day experiment was conducted on a ridge- and- runnel beach of north Norfolk on the North Sea coast. Detailed surveys were made of every low water of an area 10m by 30m and electromagnetic current meters were used to measure wave-induced currents over the ridge and in the runnel. The locations of bedform fields were noted, fluorescent sand was used to follow the sand movement and, at the end of the experiment, lacquer peels were taken of the top 0.2m of a vertical section through the ridge- and- runnel. During the 4 days 0.75m³ of sand per metre width of beach accreted in the runnel and a similar volume was eroded from the upper foreshore. The dominant shoreward transport, identified qualitatively by the movement of the fluorescent sand, suggests the ridge- and- runnel system migrated shorewards up the general beach slope of 1^o by 2–3m. The wave orbital currents were used to predict the bedforms to be expected over the tidal cycle: an upper phase plane- bed was predicted for most of the period but vortex and rolling- grain ripples were predicted and observed when the water level over the ridge was low. As the tide dropped ripples on the ridge were eliminated by swash action but the ripples in the runnel were protected by the ridge and remained on the beach after the tide dropped. The observed accretion of the beach in the runnel and on the lee slope of the ridge was used to calculate that a net average shoreward transport of 0.11g/cm·s⁻¹ occurred over the ridge crest during the period it was underwater. The current meter measurements of the wave orbital currents and the mean currents over the ridge crest were used with the wave- current interaction model of Grant and Madsen (1982), ripple dimensions defined by Nielsen (1981), and resuspension coefficient of Vincent and Green (1990), to compute bedload sand transport rates from the equations of Madsen and Grant (1976), Sleath (1978), and Vincent et al. (1981), and also the suspended sand transport rates. The results from one of these bedload equations (Madsen and Grant, 1976) compared well with the observed net transport. The calculated suspended load transport rates (due to steady currents alone) were a factor of 5 too great, and were also several orders of magnitude greater than suspended transport rates measured directly under similar or more energetic wave and current conditions.     

Influence of Headland Breakwaters on Morphological Processes at Longfengtou Beach in Haitan Bay,Facing the Taiwan Strait

Breakwaters can be used as artificial headlands in beach nourishment to mitigate coastal erosion. Longfengtou Beach, located on the southwest coast of Haitan Bay facing the Taiwan Strait on the northeast, suffers severe erosion, where the monsoon causes significant season hydrodynamic variations. Headland breakwaters are intended to be employed to mitigate coastal erosion. A 2D sediment transport model is established using MIKE21 based on current-wave coupling and calibrated by measured data. Summer and winter wave conditions are chosen as characteristic weak and strong waves respectively. The numerical results of suspended sediment concentration and seasonal morphological evolution are compared under the conditions with and without the headland breakwaters. Sediment transport in summer can be regarded as mainly determined by current field, while in winter wave effect is strong enough to change current field. The northern breakwater, nearly perpendicular to the ebb current direction, obstructs the currents and decreases velocity of the ebb currents, and confines the water carrying sediments within the protection area during the flood period. The southern breakwater also breaks the waves in advance and significantly reduces the hydrodynamic effects during the flood period and maintains high suspended sediment concentration in the protection area. In general, two headland breakwaters decrease the erosion near the beach and enlarge the deposition area, which play a significant role in prevention of sediment loss in nearshore area and mitigate coastal erosion.     

日照市海岸带海滩沉积物粒度特征及物源分析

根据日照市海岸带2个重点海滩所采集的样品,通过粒度、磁化率、主微量及稀土元素等方面的调查资料,综合分析了研究区沉积物类型、分布特征、搬运路径及物质来源。结果表明,研究区沉积物类型以砂为主,在平行海岸方向上,沉积物粒径自北至南由细变粗。在垂直海岸方向上,从滩肩到滩面再到低潮线处,沉积物粒径逐渐变细。海滨国家森林公园海滩的分选性要好于万平口海水浴场海滩。沉积物受黄海沿岸流影响,多自北向南运移。海滩中浅部物质的来源与陆内一侧基岩中斜长片麻岩和二长花岗岩的关系较为密切,深部物质的来源与靠海一侧基岩中花岗斑岩和花岗闪长岩的关系较为密切。     

THE EFFECTS OF A SLOPING BOTTOM ON THE EQUATORIAL WAVE-INDUCED DEEP RESIDUAL CURRENTS

ImODUcnONThedeepequatorialoceanhasobvioussignilicantflowapparentlycarryinghacelsa1ongandacrosstheequator(WissCtal.,l985).RmtfloatmsurementSshoWedthattheflowishigh1yvariable(Richardsonetal.,l993).ThomPsonandKawase(l993)pro-posedthatthelargeinstantaneousandfloatvelocitiesasWellasthevariabilitysuggestthatthetracersignaIsreflCCtreCtificationoftimedependentmotionsandniinginsteadofrneanEulerianflow.TheresultSoftheirstudyonthegenerationofmeancurrentSbyperi-odicfordngintheequatorialoceaninasir…     

Dynamical Control of Asymmetrically Oblique Tidal Currents to the Sedimentary Characteristics and Development of Linear Sand Ridges in the Liaodong Shoal,East Bohai Sea

The Liaodong Shoal is a group of linear sand ridges located in the east Bohai Sea of China.In this study,54 surface sediment samples have been collected,current measurements at 4 stations have been carried out and bathymetric data were obtained.The current directions are rightward deflected relative to the strikes of the sand ridges.Affected by the narrowing effect of the ridge,the current velocities exhibited an anti-‘C’type vertical profile.The velocities of the lower currents linearly correlate with the water depths.The near-bed current velocities over the troughs are estimated to be higher than those over the ridges,and this feature could be explained by the loss of kinetic energy together with the conversion between kinetic energy and gravitational potential energy.The sedimentary characteristics that are compatible with the tidal dynamics are developed across the ridges and troughs,including grain size compositions,grain size parameters,mineral compositions and Dhm indexes.The existence of the angles between the current directions and the strikes of the sand ridges is the key factor for the growth of the sand ridges.The asymmetric hydrodynamic features between the flood and ebb currents lead to the differences in the topographical and sedimentary characteristics on both sides of a sand ridge.Insufficient material supply led to the degradation of the sand ridges,and the reduction of the tidal current intensity has led to the development of the subordinate sand ridges in the troughs.Sand ridges are migrating.     

辽东湾海岸地貌近代演化特征

辽东湾海岸类型及其分布受区域地质构造控制。海岸类型可分为:港湾型基岩海岸、岛礁型基岩海岸、岬湾型沙质海岸、平原型淤泥质海岸等4类;潮间带地貌分为海滩、潮滩、岩滩3类;水下堆积地貌主要有水下三角洲及潮下浅滩。受河流输沙影响,淤积先从河口开始,然后向外围扩散。在湾顶部,地貌及内、外动力条件利于海岸淤涨,但受滨岸海洋水文条件制约,发展不均衡,可出现局部短时间的侵蚀后退现象。海岸工程可控制海岸的演化过程,滩涂地带引种植物可促进海岸持续淤涨。     

SEDIMENTARY ENVIRONMENT IN TAIWAN SHOAL

Taiwan Shoal sediments are well sorted and rounded medium-coarse sands eontaining a large amount of shell and beach rock fragments and basalt gravels, and are of deltaic, coastal and eolian origin. Underwater sand waves are formed by the combined tidal currents and are remolded by storm waves.     

Sedimentary Changes of a Sand Layer in Liquefied Silts

A flume experiment was conducted to investigate the restratification of liquefied sediment strata under a wave load with the focus on the interbedded strata of coarse and fine sediments formed in estuarine and coastal areas. The aim of this research was to study the characteristics and processes of liquefied sediment strata in terms of wave-induced liquefaction. In the experiment, the bottom bed liquefied under the wave action and the liquefied soil moved in the same period with the overlying waves, and the track of the soil particles in the liquefied soil was an ellipse. The sand layer consisting of coarse particles in the upper part, settled into the lower silt layer. The sinking of coarse particles and upward migration of the fine particles of the lower layer induced by liquefied sediment fluctuations are the likely reasons for sedimentation of the sand layer in liquefied silt.     

Operational wave now- and forecast in the German Bight as a basis for the assessment of wave-induced hydrodynamic loads on coastal dikes

The knowledge of the wave-induced hydrodynamic loads on coastal dikes including their temporal and spatial resolution on the dike in combination with actual water levels is of crucial importance of any risk-based early warning system. As a basis for the assessment of the wave-induced hydrodynamic loads, an operational wave now-and forecast system is set up that consists of i) available field measurements from the federal and local authorities and ii) data from numerical simulation of waves in the German Bight using the SWAN wave model. In this study, results of the hindcast of deep water wave conditions during the winter storm on 5–6 December, 2013(German name ‘Xaver') are shown and compared with available measurements. Moreover field measurements of wave run-up from the local authorities at a sea dike on the German North Sea Island of Pellworm are presented and compared against calculated wave run-up using the Eur Otop(2016) approach.     

黄河三角洲高效生态经济区海岸带地貌环境特征及发育模式

黄河三角洲高效生态经济区是具有国家战略地位的重要生态经济区,该地区的海岸带地处海陆交接地带,属于陆缘海海岸带,生态环境脆弱,区域海岸带地形地貌系统性阐述甚少。在开展该区域生态地质环境调查的基础上,结合实际调查情况及以往文献的研读,对该地区海岸带地形地貌、岸滩地貌类型及特征进行了系统性归纳总结。整个黄河三角洲高效生态经济区的海岸带地貌分黄河三角洲粉砂淤泥质海岸、莱州湾南岸潍北平原区粉砂淤泥质海岸、莱州砂质海岸3个部分。岸滩类型分为黄河三角洲岸段冲淤平衡潮滩、侵蚀潮滩、淤积潮滩3种及莱州湾岸段侵蚀潮滩及侵蚀砂质海滩2种。     

Characteristics of modern sedimentation in Qingdao bays

With available survey data and 237surface sediment samples,the modern sedimentation in Qingdao bays is studied.The research result shows that the east area is shallower(16.4 m) than that in the west(45.8 m).The geography was formed by a symmetric wave in a sequence of bank-offshore depression-platform-tidal channel-platform-offshore depression-foreshore from south to north.Flood sedimentary systems were formed from inlet of the Jiaozhou Bay in the west to the barrier bar in the east.Lateral sedimentation in...     

黄河三角洲海岸线遥感动态监测

黄河三角洲是世界上海岸线变迁最快的地区之一。遥感与GIS技术相结合,能准确及时地监测黄河三角洲海岸线的动态演变。本文以1976年以来多时相遥感影像为主要数据源,通过几何精校正与配准,形成统一投影与坐标体系的遥感影像,运用平均高潮线法,对20景时间序列影像经分类处理后提取海岸线;另经GIS叠加分析,剖析了现行黄河河口、钓口河口地区海岸线的演变过程及其规律。     

Response of upper ocean currents to typhoons at two ADCP moorings west of the Luzon Strait

We deployed two ADCP mooring systems west of the Luzon Strait in August 2008, and measured the upper ocean currents at high frequency. Two typhoons passed over the moorings during approximately one-month observation period. Using ADCP observations, satellite wind and heat flux measurements, and high-resolution model assimilation products, we studied the response of the upper ocean to typhoons. The first typhoon, Nuri, passed over one of the moorings, resulting in strong Ekman divergence and significant surface cooling. The cooling of surface water lagged the typhoon wind forcing about one day and lasted about five days. The second typhoon, Sinlaku, moved northward east of the Luzon Strait, and did not directly impact currents near the observation regions. Sinlaku increased anomalous surface water transport exchange across the Luzon Strait, which modulated the surface layer current of the Kuroshio.     

从苏北海岸的进退谈黄河泥沙利用问题

自１８５５ 年黄河改道北行至今,山东省的渤海湾海岸线向海方面推移了１９ｋｍ ,黄河泥沙的造陆面积达２８２７ｋｍ２ ,而在江苏省北部从双洋口至小丁港１５０ｋｍ 的海岸线上共失去土地１３２０ｋｍ２ 以上。作者认为,可以疏通明清黄河故道作为引黄工程,利用黄河携带的大量泥沙淤积于黄海沿岸,以减缓黄海岸线的侵蚀,还可抑制黄河泥沙沉积而造成的渤海的淤积。     

Numerical Simulation and Analysis of Storm Surges Under Different Extreme Weather Event and Typhoon Experiments in the South Yellow Sea

In this study,a coupled tide-surge-wave model was developed and applied to the South Yellow Sea.The coupled model simulated the evolution of storm surges and waves caused by extreme weather events,such as tropical cyclones,cold waves,extratropical cyclones coupled with a cold wave,and tropical cyclones coupled with a cold wave.The modeled surge level and significant wave height matched the measured data well.Simulation results of the typhoon with different intensities revealed that the radius to the maximum wind speed of a typhoon with 1.5 times wind speed decreased,and its influence range was farther away from the Jiangsu coastal region;moreover,the impact on surge levels was weakened.Thereafter,eight hypothetical typhoons based on Typhoon Chan-hom were designed to investigate the effects of varying typhoon tracks on the extreme value and spatial distribution of storm surges in the offshore area of Jiangsu Province.The typhoon along path 2 mainly affected the Rudong coast,and the topography of the Rudong coast was conducive to the increase in surge level.Therefore,the typhoon along path 2 induced the largest surge level,which reached up to 2.91 m in the radial sand ridge area.The maximum surge levels in the Haizhou Bay area and the middle straight coastline area reached up to 2.37 and 2.08 m,respectively.In terms of typhoons active in offshore areas,the radial sand ridge area was most likely to be threatened by typhoon-induced storm surges.     

Long-term variation of storm surge-associated waves in the Bohai Sea

When investigating the long-term variation of wave characteristics as associated with storm surges in the Bohai Sea, the Simulating Waves Nearshore(SWAN) model and ADvanced CIRCulation(ADCIRC) model were coupled to simulate 32 storm surges between 1985 and 2014. This simulation was validated by reproducing three actual wave processes, showing that the simulated significant wave height(SWH) and mean wave period agreed well with the actual measurements. In addition, the long-term variations in SWH, patterns in SWH extremes along the Bohai Sea coast, the 100-year return period SWH extreme distribution, and waves conditional probability distribution were calculated and analyzed. We find that the trend of SWH extremes in most of the coastal stations was negative, among which the largest trend was-0.03 m/a in the western part of Liaodong Bay. From the 100-year return period of the SWH distribution calculated in the Gumbel method, we find that the SWH extremes associated with storm surges decreased gradually from the center of the Bohai Sea to the coast. In addition, the joint probability of wave and surge for the entire Bohai Sea in 100-year return period was determined by the Gumbel logistic method. We therefore, assuming a minimum surge of one meter across the entire Bohai Sea, obtained the spatial SWH distribution. The conclusions of this study are significant for offshore and coastal engineering design.     

Radial tidal current field in a semi-enclosed rectangular basin: formation and evolution

The radial tidal current field accounts for the formation of the radial sand ridges in the South Yellow Sea. Understanding the formation and evolution of this radial tidal current field is vital to assessing the morphodynamic features in the area. A semi-enclosed rectangular basin with and without a coastal barrier was schematized from the topography of the Bohai Sea and Yellow Sea. The 2D tidal current field in this basin was simulated using the DELFT3D-FLOW model. The concept of tidal wave refraction, which highlights the effect of the sloped or stepped submarine topography on the propagation of the tidal waves, was introduced to explain the formation of the radial tidal current field. Under the effect of tidal wave refraction, co-phase lines of the counterclockwise rotating tidal wave and incident tidal wave are transformed into clockwise and counterclockwise deflections, respectively, leading to the convergence and divergence of the flow field. Regardless of whether a coastal barrier exists or not, the outer radial tidal current field might emerge over certain topography. The responses of the radial tidal current field in this basin to the environmental variations such as coastline changes and bottom erosions were discussed. Results show that local protrusion near the focal point of the radial tidal current field will have limited effects on the location of the tidal system. However, a remarkable shift of the amphidromic point toward the entrance and central axis of this basin and a movement of the focal point of the radial tidal current field toward the entrance could be caused by the significant seaward coastline advance and submarine slope erosion.     

Characteristics of helium isotopes in natural gas and its tectonic implication in Bohai Bay Basin

1 INTRODUCTION Helium is a trace element in natural gas and the lightest element of all rare gases. It is formed during natural nuclear processes and it is chemi- cally stable. Because of its strong diffusibility and permeability, it is used as a very sen…