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1.
Dong Guohai Li Yucheng Wang Yongxue
Lecturer Doctor Dalian University of Technology Dalian
Professor Dalian University of Technology Dalian 《中国海洋工程》1995,(1)
- A large amount of experimental analysis and systematical theoretical calculation has been done by the authors to solve the problem of wave transformation and breaking, considering the effect of both current and topography, but only the wave energy loss due to spilling breaker in the surf zone has been discussed in this paper. Based on test result analysis and calculation with the Stream Function Wave Theory, the wave velocity field at breaking points has been obtained, and it is used to calculate the wave heights after breaking by the VOF (Volume of Fluid) method, in which the governing equations are continuity equation and Navier-Stokes Equation for imcompressible fluids. In the present paper, the improved VOF technique is used to calculate the wave heights of stable regular waves after breaking. Results fit the test data well, which shows that the VOF method is suitable to numerical simulation of regular waves after breaking. Besides, the breaker coefficient B of regular waves in the bore model is a 相似文献
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综合考虑多种变形因素的近岸规则波传播数学模型Ⅰ. 基本方程的导出 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
推广了Kirby的有环境水流影响的缓坡方程,得到了综合考虑环境水流(水流因子)、非线性弥散影响(非线性因子)、底摩擦波能损失(底摩擦因子)、非缓坡地形影响(地形因子)、折射、绕射、波浪破碎多种变形因素的波浪传播控制方程,并给出了非线性因子、地形因子、底摩擦因子、水流因子的确定方法。基于导出的方程做进一步推导,得到了波高和波向为变量的综合考虑多种变形因素的波浪传播基本方程,该方程有许多优点:1)其绕开了求解波势函数的困难,将椭圆型方程的边值问题化为初值问题;2)直接求解波高和波向;3)可采用有限差分法离散求解,对空间步长没有限制,适合大面积海区波场计算;4)综合考虑了多种波浪变形因素,方程更为合理,5)容易处理波浪破碎问题。 相似文献
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结合椭圆型缓坡方程模拟近岸波流场 总被引:9,自引:3,他引:6
波浪向近岸传播的过程中,由波浪破碎效应所产生的近岸波流场是近岸海域关键的水动力学因素之一.结合近岸波浪场的椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波浪场及由斜向入射波浪破碎后所形成的近岸波流场进行了数值模拟.计算中考虑到波浪向近岸传播中由于波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应使局部复杂区域波向不易确定,采用结合椭圆型缓坡方程所给出的波浪辐射应力公式来计算波浪产生的辐射应力,在此基础上耦合椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波流场进行数值模拟,从而使模型综合考虑了波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应且避免了对波向角的直接求解,可以应用于相对较复杂区域的近岸波流场模拟. 相似文献
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Numerical study of wave and longshore current interaction 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
Wave and longshore current interaction was examined based on the numerical models.In these models,water waves in the presence of longshore currents were modeled by parabolic mild slope equation,and wave breaking induced longshore currents were modeled by shallow water equation.Water wave provided the radiation stress gradients to drive current.Wave and longshore current interactions were considered by cycling the wave and longshore current models to a steady state.The experiments for regular and irregular breaking wave induced longshore currents by Hamilton and Ebersole(2001) and Reniers and Battjes(1997) were simulated.The numerical results indicate that the present models are effective for simulating the interaction of wave and breaking wave induced longshore currents,and the numerically simulated longshore current at wave breaking point considering wave and longshore current interaction show some disagreement with those neglecting the wave-current interaction,and the breaking wave induced longshore current effect on wave transformation is not obvious. 相似文献
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波浪在珊瑚礁地形上破碎特性试验研究 总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2
对波浪在珊瑚礁地形上的传播特性进行了物理试验研究,将珊瑚礁地形简化为坡度为1∶5的陡坡(向海坡)加较长水平礁坪段的地形,对规则波和不规则波在该地形条件下的波浪破碎及波高沿程衰减进行了研究。结果表明,波高较小时,波浪破碎发生在礁坪上,但随着入射波高的增大,破碎位置逐渐向来浪方向移动,直至在向海坡段破碎。对于在礁坪上破碎的波浪,相对水深db/L0一定的条件下,破碎波高与入射波陡H0/L0相关,且变化趋势受相对水深db/L0的影响。同时给出了该地形条件下波浪破碎指标以及礁坪段破碎后沿程波高的计算公式。 相似文献
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Li Yucheng 《海洋学报(英文版)》1996,15(2):261-272
Thewavetransformationandbreakingphenomenainshallowwater¥LiYucheng(1.DalianUniversityofTechnology,Dalian116023,China)Abstract:... 相似文献
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近岸波浪传播折射变形的数学模型综述 总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3
对研究近岸波浪折射变形的各种数学模型(基本方程和数值方法)进行了较为系统的归纳总结和评述,内容包括线性规则波折射数学模型,非线性规则波折射数学模型,波群折射数学模型,不规则波折射数学模型。 相似文献
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An approach is developed to simulate wave–wave interactions using nonlinear elliptic mild-slope equation in domains where wave reflection, refraction, diffraction and breaking effects must also be considered. This involves the construction of an efficient solution procedure including effective boundary treatment, modification of the nonlinear equation to resolve convergence issues, and validation of the overall approach. For solving the second-order boundary-value problem, the Alternating Direction Implicit (ADI) scheme is employed, and the use of approximate boundary conditions is supplemented, for improved accuracy, with internal wave generation method and dissipative sponge layers. The performance of the nonlinear model is investigated for a range of practical wave conditions involving reflection, diffraction and shoaling in the presence of nonlinear wave–wave interactions. In addition, the transformation of a wave spectrum due to nonlinear shoaling and breaking, and nonlinear resonance inside a rectangular harbor are simulated. Numerical calculations are compared with the results from other relevant nonlinear models and experimental data available in literature. Results show that the approach developed here performs reasonably well, and has thus improved the applicability of this class of wave transformation models. 相似文献
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In the present paper, by introducing the effective wave elevation, we transform the extended ellip- tic mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and steep or rapidly varying bottom topography to the simplest time-dependent hyperbolic equation. Based on this equation and the empirical nonlinear amplitude dispersion relation proposed by Li et al. (2003), the numerical scheme is established. Error analysis by Taylor expansion method shows that the numerical stability of the present model succeeds the merits in Song et al. (2007)’s model because of the introduced dissipation terms. For the purpose of verifying its performance on wave nonlinearity, rapidly vary- ing topography and wave breaking, the present model is applied to study: (1) wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope (Berkhoff et al., 1982); (2) Bragg reflection of monochromatic waves from the sinusoidal ripples (Davies and Heathershaw, 1985); (3) wave transformation near a shore attached breakwater (Watanabe and Maruyama, 1986). Comparisons of the numerical solutions with the experimental or theoretical ones or with those of other models (REF/DIF model and FUNWAVE model) show good results, which indicate that the present model is capable of giving favorably predictions of wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, breaking energy dissipation and weak nonlinearity in the near shore zone. 相似文献
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水下圆形浅滩附近波浪绕射的计算 总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2
采用波数矢量无旋和波能守恒方程对圆形浅滩附近水域波浪绕射进行了数值计算,计算模型中采用Battjes关系与波数矢量无旋,波能量守恒方程一起联合求解圆形浅滩附近水域波浪折射影响下的波浪要素。本文的数值计算模型对圆形浅滩水域波浪折射绕射现象的验证结果表明,计算所得结果与试验结果是吻合的,数学模型是可靠和合理的,具有实用价值。 相似文献
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考虑波浪的浅水变化、折射、绕射、反射和破碎等现象的影响,以文氏谱作为输入谱,建立了浅水区域随机波浪传播变形的改进数值模型。对日照帆船港港域波高的数值计算结果表明:在没有越浪的情况下,计算值与物理模型试验观测值吻合。改进的数值模型成为求解港口水域波高的1种有效方法。 相似文献
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The substructures of offshore wind turbines are subjected to extreme breaking irregular wave forces. The present study is focused on investigating breaking irregular wave forces on a monopile using a computational fluid dynamics (CFD) based numerical model. The breaking irregular wave forces on a monopile mounted on a slope are investigated with a numerical wave tank. The experimental and numerical irregular free surface elevations are compared in the frequency-domain for the different locations in the vicinity of the cylinder. A numerical analysis is performed for different wave steepness cases to understand the influence of wave steepness on the breaking irregular wave loads. The wave height transformation and energy level evolution during the wave shoaling and wave breaking processes is investigated. The higher-frequency components generated during the wave breaking process are observed to play a significant role in initiating the secondary force peaks. The free surface elevation skewness and spectral bandwidth during the wave transformation process are analysed and an investigation is performed to establish a correlation of these parameters with the breaking irregular wave forces. The role of the horizontal wave-induced water particle velocity at the free surface and free surface pressure in determining the breaking wave loads is highlighted. The higher-frequency components in the velocity and pressure spectrum are observed to be significant in influencing the secondary peaks in the breaking wave force spectrum. 相似文献
17.
Wang Liang
Du Heng Lecturer Hohai University Nanjing Engineer Jiangsu Communication Planning Design Institute Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1993,(1)
- Engineers in coastal engineering have been paying much attention to the research subject on wave breaking. In this paper, previous research results on the calculating methods of wave breaking depth and height are enumerated, the laws of wave transformation before and after wave breaking are investigated, an adequate supposition is made, and the effect of beach slope, bed friction and breaking turbulence on wave breaking is considered. By applying the theory of wave energy dissipation rate and combining with proper formulas of solitary waves, a new calculating formula of wave breaking depth and height on the movable bed is derived and examined with the data from experimental pools of different sizes, and it is proved to be of practicability. 相似文献
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通过波浪水槽实验,开展不同类型波浪作用下的沙质岸滩演化规律研究工作。本次实验研究不考虑比尺,采用1:10与1:20组成的复合沙质斜坡对岸滩进行概化,选取规则波和椭圆余弦波两种典型波浪作用,对波浪的传播、变形和破碎、上爬、回落过程以及波浪作用前后沙质岸滩床面地形进行了观测,探讨波浪作用下沙质岸滩剖面演化规律。本文实验工况中,规则波作用下,岸滩剖面呈现出沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面,椭圆余弦波作用下的岸滩剖面均呈滩肩形态,发现岸滩剖面形态不仅与波浪作用类型、强度、周期等因素相关,还与波浪破碎的强度等因素有关。通过对实验过程中现象的进行观察和分析,引入了卷破波水舌冲击角的概念。对波浪卷破破碎后形成的水流挟沙运动与岸滩剖面形态的关系进行定性分析,对水舌冲击角与Irribarren参数之间的关系进行定量分析,基于Irribarren参数与岸滩剖面形态的关系初步建立了波浪作用下沙质岸滩剖面形态判别关系式。通过本文实验结果和前人实验结果对趋势线进行拟合,求得其判别系数,判别式能够较好地划分淤积型岸滩、侵蚀型岸滩及过渡型岸滩三种岸滩形态。 相似文献