世界大洋长历时局地风速和有效波高的统计与分析

本文基于美国海军测地卫星高度计提供的全球范围长历时局地平均风速和有效波高资料进行统计分析,结果表明,世界大洋长历时局地平均风速和有效波高有明显的相关性,其散布点系统地位于Wilson提出的深水充分成长风浪平均风速和有效波高经验曲线之上;并从能量叠加平衡方程,近似定量估计出大洋中长历时涌浪有效波高与局地平均风速的关系。     

Measurements of ocean wave spectrum from airborne radar at small incidence angles

This paper proposes the retrieval method of ocean wave spectrum for airborne radar observations at small incidence angles, which is slightly modified from the method developed by Hauser. Firstly, it makes use of integration method to estimate total mean square slope instead of fitting method, which aims to reduce the affects of fluctuations superposed on normalized radar cross-section by integration. Secondly, for eliminating the noise spectrum contained in signal spectrum, the method considers the signal spectrum in certain look direction without any long wave components as the assumed noise spectrum, which would be subtracted from signal spectrum in any look direction for linear wave spectrum retrieval. Estimated ν from the integration method are lower than the one from fitting method and have a standard deviation of 0.004 between them approximately. The assumed noise spectrum energy almost has no big variations along with the wave number and is slightly lower to the high wave number part of signal spectrum in any look direction, which follows that the assumption makes sense. The retrieved directional spectra are compared with the buoy records in terms of peak wavelength, peak direction and the significant wave height. Comparisons show that the retrieved peak wavelength and significant wave height are slightly higher than the buoy records but don’t differs significantly (error less than 10%). For peak direction, the swell waves in first case basically propagate in the wind direction 6 hours ago and the wind-generated waves in second case also propagate in the wind direction, but the 180? ambiguity remains. Results show that the modified method can carry out the retrieval of directional wave spectrum.     

Wave height statistical characteristic analysis

When exploring the temporal and spatial change law of ocean environment, the most common method used is using smaller-scale observed data to derive the change law for a larger-scale system. For instance, using 30-year observation data to derive 100-year return period design wave height. Therefore, the study of inherent self-similarity in ocean hydrological elements becomes increasingly important to the study of multi-year return period design wave height derivation. In this paper, we introduced multifractal to analyze the statistical characteristics of wave height series data observed from oceanic hydrological station. An improvement is made to address the existing problems of the multifractal detrended fluctuation analysis (MF-DFA) method, where trend function showed a discontinuity between intervals. The improved MFDFA method is based on signal mode decomposition, replacing piecewise polynomial fitting used in the original method. We applied the proposed method to the wave height data collected at Chaolian Island, Shandong, China, from 1963 to 1989 and was able to conclude the wave height sequence presented weak multi-fractality. This result provided strong support to the past research on the derivation of multi-year return period design wave height with observed data. Moreover, the new method proposed in this paper also provides a new perspective to explore the intrinsic characteristic of data.     

平均海平面模型的确立方法研究

针对平均海平面的定义,分别介绍了利用验潮站资料和卫星高度计资料确立平均海平面的方法原理,并对2种方法的特性及存在的问题进行了比较阐述,确定了以沿岸长期验潮站为控制条件,对卫星测高数据确定的高分辨率高精度的平均海平面网格模型进行改正,最终构建平均海平面与国家大地坐标系关系的研究方法.     

A semiempirical algorithm for SAR wave height retrieval and its validation using Envisat ASAR wave mode data

Many synthetic aperture radar(SAR) wave height retrieval algorithms have been developed.However,the wave height retrievals from most existing methods either depend on other input as the first guess or are restricted to the long wave regime.A semiempirical algorithm is presented,which has the objective to estimate the wave height from SAR imagery without any prior knowledge.The proposed novel algorithm was developed based on the theoretical SAR ocean wave imaging mechanism and the empirical relation between two types of wave period.The dependency of the proposed model on radar incident and wave direction was analyzed.For Envisat advanced synthetic aperture radar(ASAR) wave mode data,the model can be reduced to the simple form with two input parameters,i.e.,the cutoff wavelength and peak wavelength of ocean wave,which can be retrieved from SAR imagery without any prior knowledge of wind or wave.Using Envisat ASAR wave mode data and the collocated buoy measurements from NDBC,the semiempirical algorithm is validated and compared with the Envisat ASAR level 2 products.The root-mean-square-error(RMSE) and scatter index(SI) in respect to the in situ measurements are 0.52 m and 19% respectively.Validation results indicate that,for Envisat ASAR wave mode data,the proposed method works well.     

Comparison of TOPEX/POSEIDON Altimeter Derived Wind Speed and Wave Parameters with Ocean Buoy Data in the North Indian Ocean

Results of comparison exercises carried out between the state-of-the-art TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter-derived ocean surface wind speed and ocean wave parameters (significant wave height and wave period) and those measured by a set of ocean data buoys in the North Indian Ocean are presented in this article. Altimeter-derived significant wave height values exhibited rms deviation as small as ±0.3 m, and surface wind speed of ±1.6 m/s. These results are found consistent with those found for the Pacific Ocean. For estimation of ocean wave period, the spectral moments-based semiempirical approach, earlier applied on GEOSAT data, was extended to TOPEX/POSEIDON. For this purpose, distributions of first four years of TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter data and climatology over the North Indian Ocean were analyzed and a new set of coefficients generated for estimation of wave period. It is shown that wave periods thus estimated from TOPEX/POSEIDON data (for the subsequent two years), when compared with independent data set of ocean data buoys deployed in the North Indian Ocean, exhibit improved accuracy (rms ~ ±1.4 nos) over those determined earlier with GEOSAT data.     

一种新的从船用X波段雷达图像中确定波向的方法

船用X波段雷达被广泛应用于海洋表面波观测和研究。本文给出了一种新的从船用X波段雷达图像中确定主波传播方向的方法。X波段雷达图像中的海浪信号具有明显的尺度性和方向性。同时,curvelet变换作为一种同时具备尺度分辨率和方向分辨率的数学变换,能够对一幅雷达图像在不同尺度、不同方向和不同位置上进行分析。对一幅雷达图像进行curvelet分解并获得curvelet系数后,波浪信号主要集中在某些特定尺度和方向的curvelet系数中,从而我们可以获得带有 方向模糊的波传播方向。进而,通过计算几幅连续采集图像的互相关系数可以消除 方向模糊。同步观测的雷达图像和浮标数据证明了该方法的有效性。     

The impact of mean dynamic topography on a sea-level anomaly assimilation in the South China Sea based on an eddy-resolving model

The sea-level anomaly (SLA) from a satellite altimeter has a high accuracy and can be used to improve ocean state estimation by assimilation techniques. However, the lack of an accurate mean dynamic topography (MDT) is still a bothersome issue in an ocean data assimilation. The previous studies showed that the errors in MDT have significant impacts on assimilation results, especially on the time-mean components of ocean states and on the time variant parts of states via nonlinear ocean dynamics. The temporal-spatial differences of three MDTs and their impacts on the SLA analysis are focused on in the South China Sea (SCS). The theoretical analysis shows that even for linear models, the errors in MDT have impacts on the SLA analysis using a sequential data assimilation scheme. Assimilation experiments, based on EnOI scheme and HYCOM, with three MDTs from July 2003 to June 2004 also show that the SLA assimilation is very sensitive to the choice of different MDTs in the SCS with obvious differences between the experimental results and observations in the centre of the SCS and in the vicinity of the Philippine Islands. A new MDT for assimilation of SLA data in the SCS was proposed. The results from the assimilation experiment with this new MDT show a marked reduction (increase) in the RMSEs (correlation coefficient) between the experimental and observed SLA. Furthermore, the subsurface temperature field is also improved with this new MDT in the SCS.     

Comparison of TOPEX/POSEIDON Altimeter Derived Wind Speed and Wave Parameters with Ocean Buoy Data in the North Indian Ocean

Results of comparison exercises carried out between the state-of-the-art TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter-derived ocean surface wind speed and ocean wave parameters (significant wave height and wave period) and those measured by a set of ocean data buoys in the North Indian Ocean are presented in this article. Altimeter-derived significant wave height values exhibited rms deviation as small as - 0.3 m, and surface wind speed of - 1.6 m/s. These results are found consistent with those found for the Pacific Ocean. For estimation of ocean wave period, the spectral moments-based semiempirical approach, earlier applied on GEOSAT data, was extended to TOPEX/POSEIDON. For this purpose, distributions of first four years of TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter data and climatology over the North Indian Ocean were analyzed and a new set of coefficients generated for estimation of wave period. It is shown that wave periods thus estimated from TOPEX/POSEIDON data (for the subsequent two years), when compared with independent data set of ocean data buoys deployed in the North Indian Ocean, exhibit improved accuracy (rms ~ - 1.4 nos) over those determined earlier with GEOSAT data.     

Nonlinear Model of Mean Free Surface of Waves

-A nonlinear model of mean free surface of waves or wave set-up is presented.The model isbased on that of Roelvink(1993),but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on theWeighted-Average Flux(WAF)method(Watson et al,1992),with Time-Operator-Splitting(TOS)usedfor the treatment of the source terms.This method allows a small number of computational points to beused,and is particularly efficient in modeling wave set-up.The short wave(or primary wave)energy equa-tion is solved by use of a more traditional Lax-Wendroff technique.A nonlinear wave theory(James,1974)is introduced.The model described in this paper is found to be satisfactory in most respects whencompared with the measurements conducted by Stive(1983)except in modeling the mean free surface veryclose to the mean shoreline.     

Calibration/Validation of an Altimeter Wave Period Model and Application to TOPEX/Poseidon and Jason-1 Altimeters

The altimeter radar backscatter cross-section is known to be related to the ocean surface wave mean square slope statistics, linked to the mean surface acceleration variance according to the surface wave dispersion relationship. Since altimeter measurements also provide significant wave height estimates, the precedent reasoning was used to derive empirical altimeter wave period models by combining both significant wave height and radar backscatter cross-section measurements. This article follows such attempts to propose new algorithms to derive an altimeter mean wave period parameter using neural networks method. Two versions depending on the required inputs are presented. The first one makes use of Ku-band measurements only as done in previous studies, and the second one exploits the dual-frequency capability of modern altimeters to better account for local environmental conditions. Comparison with in situ measurements show high correlations which give confidence in the derived altimeter wave period parameter. It is further shown that improved mean wave characteristics can be obtained at global and local scales by using an objective interpolation scheme to handle relatively coarse altimeter sampling and that TOPEX/Poseidon and Jason-1 altimeters can be merged to provide altimeter mean wave period fields with a better resolution. Finally, altimeter mean wave period estimates are compared with the WaveWatch-III numerical wave model to illustrate their usefulness for wave models tuning and validation.     

Calibration/Validation of an Altimeter Wave Period Model and Application to TOPEX/Poseidon and Jason-1 Altimeters

The altimeter radar backscatter cross-section is known to be related to the ocean surface wave mean square slope statistics, linked to the mean surface acceleration variance according to the surface wave dispersion relationship. Since altimeter measurements also provide significant wave height estimates, the precedent reasoning was used to derive empirical altimeter wave period models by combining both significant wave height and radar backscatter cross-section measurements. This article follows such attempts to propose new algorithms to derive an altimeter mean wave period parameter using neural networks method. Two versions depending on the required inputs are presented. The first one makes use of Ku-band measurements only as done in previous studies, and the second one exploits the dual-frequency capability of modern altimeters to better account for local environmental conditions. Comparison with in situ measurements show high correlations which give confidence in the derived altimeter wave period parameter. It is further shown that improved mean wave characteristics can be obtained at global and local scales by using an objective interpolation scheme to handle relatively coarse altimeter sampling and that TOPEX/Poseidon and Jason-1 altimeters can be merged to provide altimeter mean wave period fields with a better resolution. Finally, altimeter mean wave period estimates are compared with the WaveWatch-III numerical wave model to illustrate their usefulness for wave models tuning and validation.     

A simple estimation of the force exerted by internal solitons on cylindrical piles

Internal solitons can bring about strong force on the oil drilling platform and pipeline at sea, which causes severe threat to the ocean engineering. Cai et al. (2003) introduced Morison's empirical formula, modal separation method and regression analyses to estimate the forces exerted by internal soliton on cylindrical piles. However, this method is very complicated and it requires some observational current data which are generally very difficult to obtain synchronically. In this paper, it is shown that the force by the first mode internal wave dominates most part of the global force, thus a new simple estimation method of the force based on only the first mode internal wave is put forward without some complicated steps and observational current data in the old method. The force can be estimated by the local vertical observational temperature, salinity data and amplitude of internal soliton.     

Improvements on Mean Free Wave Surface Modeling

Some new results of the modeling of mean free surface of waves or wave set-up are presented. The stream funetion wave theory is applied to incident short waves. The limiting wave steepness is adopted as the wave breaker indcx in the calculation of wave breaking dissipation. The model is based on Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method (Watson et al. , 1992), with Time-Operator-Split-ting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of eomputational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modeling wave set-up. The short wave (or incident primary wave) energy equation is solved by use of a traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. The present model is found to be satisfactory compared with the measurements conducted by Stive (1983).     

自然海况下波浪特性的初步研究

通过分析大量的外海浮标观测资料 ,发现波龄和无因次波高之间存在非常好的相关性 ,自然海况下的波浪场满足 3/ 5指数律 ,其波龄可达到几十 ,远远超过风浪波龄的上限 1 .4,说明波浪组成波之间波 -波共振非线性相互作用是波浪内部结构的主要调节机制 ,使波高和周期之间具有很好的相关性。     

Modification of Globwave satellite altimetry database for sea wave field diagnostics

A new database of ocean wave parameters has been created based on satellite altimetry observations. The basis was data from the European Space Agency project GlobWave (www.globwave.org), which was transformed to suit upcoming requirements for global wave analysis. The new database contains additional wave characteristics (altimetry wind speed estimated using different parametric models, steepness, period, and some quality control parameters). It provides up-to-date tools for mass data preprocessing. The new database makes it possible to optimize wave field diagnostics on regional and global scales. Using the Envisat and Jason-1 satellite missions as an the example, we demonstrate the specific features of using the initial GlobalWave data set and the modified database.     

Some statistical characteristics of large deepwater waves around the Korean Peninsula

The relationship between significant wave height and period, the variability of significant wave period, the spectral peak enhancement factor, and the directional spreading parameter of large deepwater waves around the Korean Peninsula have been investigated using various sources of wave measurement and hindcasting data. For very large waves comparable to design waves, it is recommended to use the average value of the empirical formulas proposed by Shore Protection Manual in 1977 and by Goda in 2003 for the relationship between significant wave height and period. The standard deviation of significant wave periods non-dimensionalized with respect to the mean value for a certain significant wave height varies between 0.04 and 0.21 with a typical value of 0.1 depending upon different regions and different ranges of significant wave heights. The probability density function of the peak enhancement factor is expressed as a lognormal distribution, with its mean value of 2.14, which is somewhat smaller than the value in the North Sea. For relatively large waves, the probability density function of the directional spreading parameter at peak frequency is also expressed as a lognormal distribution.     

Comparison of inversion algorithms for HF radar wave measurements

All ocean wave components contribute to the second-order scattering of a high-frequency (HF) radio wave by the sea surface. It is therefore theoretically possible to estimate the ocean wave spectrum from the radar backscatter. To extract the wave information, it is necessary to solve the nonlinear integral equation that describes the relationship between the backscatter spectrum and the ocean wave directional spectrum. Different inversion techniques have been developed for this problem by different researchers, but there is at present no accepted “best” method. This paper gives an assessment of the current status of two methods for deriving sea-state information from HF radar observations of the sea surface. The methods are applied to simulated data and to an experimental data set with sea-truth being provided by a directional wave buoy     

A Spectral Approach for Determining Altimeter Wind Speed Model Functions

We propose a new analytical algorithm for the estimation of wind speeds from altimeter data using the mean square slope of the ocean surface, which is obtained by integration of a widely accepted wind-wave spectrum including the gravity-capillary wave range. It indicates that the normalized radar cross section depends not only on the wind speed but also on the wave age. The wave state effect on the altimeter radar return becomes remarkable with increasing wind speed and cannot be neglected at high wind speeds. A relationship between wave age and nondimensional wave height based on buoy observational data is applied to compute the wave age using the significant wave height of ocean waves, which could be simultaneously obtained from altimeter data. Comparison with actual data shows that this new algorithm produces more reliable wind speeds than do empirical algorithms. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

图解法和矩值法所求平均粒径应用对比研究

为了更好的了解图解法和矩值法计算平均粒径的区别,增强历史资料利用率,通过分析两种方法计算原理上的差异,利用某海区沉积物样品粒度测试结果,对两种方法所得平均粒径进行对比,并利用底质参数法分析两种方法所得平均粒径对声波浅海传播影响效果。结果表明,矩值法与图解法所得平均粒径在分析声波浅海传播影响上可以相互替代。