A simplified hindcast method for the estimation of extreme storm surge events in semi-enclosed basins

Human presence, coastal erosion, and tourism activities are increasing the attention to coastal flooding risk. To perform risk assessments, long time series of observed or hindcast wave parameters and tide levels are then necessary. In some cases, only a few years of observation are available, so that observed extreme data are not always representative and reliable. A hindcast system aimed to reconstruct long time series of total tide levels may be of great help to perform robust extreme events analysis and then to protect human life, activities as well as to counteract coastal erosion by means of risk assessments. This work aims to propose a simplified method to hindcast storm surge levels time series in semi-enclosed basins with low computational costs. The method is an extension of a previous work of some of the authors and consists of a mixed approach in which the estimation of storm surge obtained by using the theory of linear dynamic system is corrected by using a statistical method. Both steps are characterized by low computational costs. Nevertheless, the results may be considered reliable enough also in view of the simplicity of the approach. The proposed method has been applied to the Manfredonia case study, a small village located in the Southern Adriatic Italian coast and often prone to coastal flooding events. The comparison of extreme events estimated on the basis of hindcast levels time series is satisfactorily similar to those estimated on the basis of observed tide series.     

A voting-based approach for fast object recognition in underwateracoustic images

This paper describes a voting-based approach for the fast automatic recognition of man-made objects and related attitude estimation in underwater acoustic images generated by forward-looking sonars or acoustic cameras. In general, the continuous analysis of sequences of images is a very heavy task for human operators and this is due to the poor quality of acoustic images. Hence, algorithms able to recognize an object on the basis of a priori knowledge of the model and to estimate its attitude with reference to a global coordinate system are very useful to facilitate underwater operations like object manipulation or vehicle navigation. The proposed method is capable of recognizing objects and estimating their two-dimensional attitude by using information coming from boundary segments and their angular relations. It is based on a simple voting approach directly applied to the edge discontinuities of underwater acoustic images, whose quality is usually affected by some undesired effects such as object blurring, speckle noise, and geometrical distortions degrading the edge detection. The voting approach is robust, with respect to these effects, so that good results are obtained even with images of very poor quality. The sequences of simulated and real acoustic images are presented in order to test the validity of the proposed method in terms of average estimation error and computational load     

Estimating wave crest distributions using the method of L-moments

The design of fixed or floating offshore structures requires accurate information of the met-ocean data at the intended offshore site. In the design process it is recognized that this environmental data is modified in the near-field by the interaction with the particular geometrical configuration of the offshore structure. This transformation of the incident wave field around and beneath an offshore structure presents a challenge for ocean engineers when specifying the wave gap elevation to avoid impact loads on the underside of the deck and inundation of the topsides. Thus, the accurate estimation of the wave crest distributions from measurements at various locations near and under the offshore structure during model test studies is essential. A semi-empirical approach is presented herein that builds upon the findings of previous studies and introduces the Method of L-moments. A three parameter model for a wave crest probability distribution function is presented and explicit relationships between the parameters of the distribution and its’ first three L-Moments are established. Furthermore, three narrow-band models from earlier research studies are reviewed and compared with the new model. Wave measurements from a mini-TLP model test program are used as the basis for comparison of the four distributions. The root-mean-square error is used as a metric to quantify the overall fit of the data and its accuracy in the high end tail of the data. The L-Moment model is shown to be more robust in representing the data in both the far-field and beneath the deck of the mini-TLP where the wave field demonstrates increased non-linear behavior.     

On the estimation of Morison force coefficients and their predictive accuracy for very rough circular cylinders

This paper makes an assessment of the various method that may be used to analyse experiment data on the force experienced by a circular cylinder in waves and combined wave and current flows to estimate drag and inertia coefficients for use in Morison's equation. Most of the widely used techniques are considered together with a weighted least squares approach for time domain analysis. A set of data obtained from experiments on heavily roughened circular cylinders of diameters 0.513 and 0.216 m in the Delta wave flume at De Voorst in Holland in waves and simulated current has been analysed in turn by all these techniques. The experiment data was split into two halves. The first was used for the analyses and the second was used to assess the predictive accuracy of Morison's equation. Using the force coefficients obtained from the different analysis techniques corresponding predicted force time series were constructed using the particle kinematics measured in the second parts of the data sets. These predicted time series were then compared with the corresponding measured force time histories. The root mean square error and the bias in the estimation of maximum force in each wave cycle are used as measures of predictive accuracy and as a basis for comparing the efficiency of the different analysis techniques. It was found that the weighted least square method generally gave the best predictive accuracy, but only by a small margin.     

GPS单点测速技术在海浪测量中的应用研究

分析比对了GPS单点测速技术与其他已有测波手段的不同,讨论了基于多普勒频移的GPS测速方法,并分析了各类误差对测速精度的影响。分别利用原始多普勒值和导出多普勒值进行了静态测速试验和动态测速试验,将导出多普勒测速结果与RTK（RealTimeKinematic,实时动态测量系统）位置差分测速进行了比测。结果表明,使用静态数据采用高频导出多普勒值测速的精度可以达到亚厘米级每秒,而采用原始多普勒观测值进行测速因接收机型号的不同,结果差异较大;动态测速试验中,采用导出多普勒测速的方法与RTK位置差分测速的符合精度可达cm／s。     

基于GPS单点测速的海浪测量方法初探

首先分析比对了已有的测波方法,阐述了将GPS单点测速应用到测波中的优点.然后讨论了基于多普勒频移的测速方法,并分析了各类误差对测速精度的影响.最后利用静态数据进行动态测速模拟试验和实测动态数据测速与RTK (Real Time Kinematic,实时动态测量系统)位置差分测速进行—致性检验.结果表明,使用静态数据采用...     

An effectivemethod for improving the accuracy of Argo objective analysis

Based on the optimal interpolation objective analysis of the Argo data, improvements are made to the em- pirical formula of a background error covariance matrix widely used in data assimilation and objective anal- ysis systems. Specifically, an estimation of correlation scales that can improve effectively the accuracy of Ar- go objective analysis has been developed. This method can automatically adapt to the gradient change of a variable and is referred to as ＂gradient-dependent correlation scale method＂. Its effect on the Argo objective analysis is verified theoretically with Gaussian pulse and spectrum analysis. The results of one-dimensional simulation experiment show that the gradient-dependent correlation scales can improve the adaptability of the objective analysis system, making it possible for the analysis scheme to fully absorb the shortwave information of observation in areas with larger oceanographic gradients. The new scheme is applied to the Argo data obiective analysis system in the Pacific Ocean. The results are obviously improved.     

Simplified method for the calculation of irregular waves in the coastal zone

A method applicable for the estimation of the wave parameters along a set bottom profile is suggested. It takes into account the principal processes having an influence on the waves in the coastal zone: the transformation, refraction, bottom friction, and breaking. The ability to use a constant mean value of the friction coefficient under conditions of sandy shores is implied. The wave breaking is interpreted from the viewpoint of the concept of the limiting wave height at a given depth. The mean and root-mean-square wave heights are determined by the height distribution function, which transforms under the effect of the breaking. The verification of the method on the basis of the natural data shows that the calculation results reproduce the observed variations of the wave heights in a wide range of conditions, including profiles with underwater bars. The deviations from the calculated values mostly do not exceed 25%, and the mean square error is 11%. The method does not require a preliminary setting and can be implemented in the form of a relatively simple calculator accessible even for an inexperienced user.     

Feed-forward control for dynamic positioning in random waves based on quadratic impulse function and real-time wave measurement

The real-time estimation of second-order difference-frequency wave forces using real-time random-wave measurement is developed for the FF (feed-forward) control based dynamic positioning of floating offshore vessels and platforms. The efficacy of the developed FF control scheme is validated by using the in-house hull-mooring-riser-thruster fully coupled time-domain computer simulation program through comparisons with the results by the conventional feedback-control-only case. The feedback (FB) control intends to reduce the accumulated position-excursion error, meanwhile the proposed feed-forward control compensates the controllable slowly-varying wave loads by activating thrusters in advance based on the real-time estimation of the second-order difference-frequency wave loadings using the real-time signal of random incident wave. The real-time estimation of the second-order difference-frequency wave loads is done by using the double-convolution integral with pre-calculated QIF (quadratic impulse function). The numerical DP system is successfully implemented with the FF control algorithm in the vessel-thruster fully coupled time-domain simulation program. The developed schemes are applied to a turret-moored FPSO (floating production storage offloading) with six dynamic-positioning (DP) azimuth thrusters in two non-collinear storm conditions. It is clearly demonstrated that the developed FF control scheme performs much better than the conventional feedback-control-only case. The corresponding reductions in horizontal offsets, motions, mooring tensions, and fuel consumptions by using the developed FF control scheme are underscored.     

Soft computing approach for real-time estimation of missing wave heights

This paper presents soft computing approach for estimation of missing wave heights at a particular location on a real-time basis using wave heights at other locations. Six such buoy networks are developed in Eastern Gulf of Mexico using soft computing techniques of Artificial Neural Networks (ANN) and Genetic Programming (GP). Wave heights at five stations are used to estimate wave height at the sixth station. Though ANN is now an established tool in time series analysis, use of GP in the field of time series forecasting/analysis particularly in the area of Ocean Engineering is relatively new and needs to be explored further. Both ANN and GP approach perform well in terms of accuracy of estimation as evident from values of various statistical parameters employed. The GP models work better in case of extreme events. Results of both approaches are also compared with the performance of large-scale continuous wave modeling/forecasting system WAVEWATCH III. The models are also applied on real time basis for 3 months in the year 2007. A software is developed using evolved GP codes (C++) as back end with Visual Basic as the Front End tool for real-time application of wave estimation model.     

利用高频雷达海面回波中奇异峰估计浪高的方法

The popular methods to estimate wave height with high-frequency(HF) radar depend on the integration over the second-order spectral region and thus may come under from even not strong external interference. To improve the accuracy and increase the valid detection range of the wave height measurement, particularly by the smallaperture radar, it is turned to singular peaks which often exceed the power of other frequency components. The power of three kinds of singular peaks, i.e., those around ±1,±2~(1/2) and ±1(2~(1/2)) times the Bragg frequency, are retrieved from a one-month-long radar data set collected by an ocean state monitoring and analyzing radar,model S(OSMAR-S), and in situ buoy records are used to make some comparisons. The power response to a wave height is found to be described with a new model quite well, by which obvious improvement on the wave height estimation is achieved. With the buoy measurements as reference, a correlation coefficient is increased to 0.90 and a root mean square error(RMSE) is decreased to 0.35 m at the range of 7.5 km compared with the results by the second-order method. The further analysis of the fitting performance across range suggests that the peak has the best fit and maintains a good performance as far as 40 km. The correlation coefficient is 0.78 and the RMSE is 0.62 m at 40 km. These results show the effectiveness of the new empirical method, which opens a new way for the wave height estimation with the HF radar.     

数值模式与统计模型相耦合的近岸海浪预报方法

针对数值模式和统计模型预报近岸海浪存在的局限性,构建了数值模式和统计模型相耦合的近岸海浪预报框架,在模式计算格点和近岸预报目标点之间定义一个海浪能量密度谱传递系数,通过经验正交函数分解和卡尔曼滤波方法建立传递系数的统计预报模型并与数值模式进行耦合。经过对近岸波浪观测站1a的预报试验表明:该方法能够提高近岸海浪有效波高预报精度,有效波高的均方根误差降低了约0.16m,平均相对误差降低约9%。进一步试验和分析发现,该方法的预报有效时间小于24h,将海浪能量密度谱经过分解后得到的基本模态反映了近岸波侯的主要特征,海浪能量密度谱传递系数的变化体现了波侯的季节变化特点。     

An inverse hull design approach in minimizing the ship wave

The Levenberg–Marquardt Method (LMM) and a panel code for solving the wave-making problem are utilized in an inverse hull design problem for minimizing the wave of ships. A typical catamaran is selected as the example ship for the present study. The hull form of the catamaran is described by the B-spline surface method so that the shape of the hull can be completely specified using only a small number of parameters (i.e. control points). The technique of parameter estimation for the inverse design problem is thus chosen. The LMM of parameter estimation, which is the combination of steepest descent and Newton’s methods, has been proven to be a powerful tool for the inverse shape design problem. For this reason it is adopted in the present study.In the present studies, the inverse hull design method can not only be applied to estimate the hull form based on the known wave data of the target ship but can also be applied to estimate the unknown hull form based on the reduced wave height. The optimal hull forms of minimizing wave for a typical catamaran in deep water at service speed and at the critical speed of shallow water are estimated, respectively. Moreover, a new hull form with the combining feature of the optimal hull forms for deep water and shallow water is performing well under both conditions. The numerical simulation indicates that the hull form designed by inverse hull design method can reduce the ship wave significantly in comparison with the original hull form.     

斜压罗斯贝变形半径优化的误差相关尺度及其对最优插值效果的改进

利用最优插值方法进行三维温盐场重构时,如何正确估算背景场误差协方差至关重要。针对背景场误差协方差主要取决于误差相关尺度的问题,本文提出了用中国东部海域及其附近海域的最新的高分辨率气候态数据进行斜压罗斯贝变形半径优化其误差相关尺度计算的研究方案和技术途径;对比分析了均一化相关尺度方案和法国ISAS系统尺度方案,讨论了变形半径对最优插值的影响。结果表明:均一化相关尺度方案的均方根误差小于ISAS方案,但温度场过于平滑,难以刻画一些重要的物理现象;相比而言,本文提出的基于变形半径的相关尺度方案在取2倍变形半径时,不仅均方根误差在各水平层较小,且温度场能够更好地刻画四国海盆海域涡旋及黑潮影响的温度场三维结构。由于实际海洋中各层物理过程的尺度存在差异,实际应用时各层的最优尺度设置也应有所不同。     

Assimilation of altimeter wave height data into a spectral wave model using statistical interpolation

A scheme for the assimilation of altimeter wave height data into a second generation wave prediction model is developed. The scheme modifies the model wave spectrum so as to be consistent with the satellite observed values of significant wave height. This modification is achieved, however, so that the adjusted wave field is consistent with the model physics and the forcing wind field. In this manner the modifications to the wave field persist in the model, thus yielding long term improvements in model performance. In addition, a statistical interpolation scheme is used to ensure that maximum use is made of the point observations made by the satellite. In this manner, not only points directly beneath the satellite track are updated. Points adjacent to the track are also modified, the extent of this modification depending on the spatial correlation of the wave field. The scheme is applied to a computationally efficient second generation wave model. The improvement in performance is significant, demonstrating that assimilation may be a very efficient alternative to proceeding to more sophisticated and expensive third generation models. This is particularly true where the forcing wind field may be of poor quality. The results also demonstrate that with the addition of assimilation, relatively small computational grids can be utilized. Swell generated external to the grid will be included through the assimilation cycle.     

Separation of incident and reflected waves in wave–current flumes

A technique is developed to separate the incident and reflected waves propagating on a known current in a laboratory wave–current flume by analyzing wave records measured at two or more locations using a least squares method. It can be applied to both regular and irregular waves. To examine its performance, numerical tests are made for waves propagating on quiescent or flowing water. In some cases, to represent the signal noise and measurement error, white noise is superimposed on the numerically generated wave signal. For all the cases, good agreement is observed between target and estimation.     

一种计算有限水深波能功率的新方法

海洋波浪能平均功率的准确计算是波浪能开发和利用的基础。实践中,波浪能转换装置一般安装在有限水深区域。对于随机波,只有当详尽的波浪谱已知的时候,有限水深区的波能功率才能被准确计算出来。由于种种原因,实践中波浪的实测数据大多以散点图或有义波高和统计波周期的形式给出,而波浪谱信息有时则很难获得。基于这种情况,传统上人们利用无限水深条件下的相关公式来估算有限水深区域的波能功率,但这种做法会造成较大的误差。本研究显示,对于50 m水深的理论波谱JONSWAP谱来说该误差高达14.6%。为了提高波能功率计算的准确性,本文提出了一种基于能量频率的一阶和二阶近似算法,可以在未知波浪谱的情况下较为准确地计算不同水深时的波能功率。针对两种理论波浪谱的计算结果表明,本方法在计算有限带宽内的波能功率时计算误差低于2.8%。     

基于VMD和WinLSP相结合的GNSS-R海平面高度估测模型

全球导航卫星系统反射（Global Navigation Satellite System-Reflectometry,GNSS-R）技术是一种新兴的监测海平面高度变化的技术。本文依据GNSS-R技术中的信噪比分析法的原理,通过分析其分离趋势项和提取振荡频率的过程,建立了新的估测模型以提高反演精度。针对传统模型存在的信号分离不佳的问题,本文提出使用变分模态分解（Variational Mode Decomposition,VMD）算法替换传统的最小二乘拟合法（Least Squares Fitting, LSF）进行趋势项分量的分离。在此基础上,本文引入基于凯塞窗函数改进的LSP(Lomb-Scargle Periodogram)频谱分析法（记为WinLSP）来减弱因频谱泄露带来的反演误差。在瑞典翁萨拉的GTGU站和美国阿拉斯加州的SC02站开展的海平面高度反演实验结果表明,本文建立的估测模型相比于传统模型具有更高的反演精度。基于VMD+WinLSP估测模型得到的GTGU站反演结果的均方根误差（RMSE）、相关系数和反演点数分别为4.70 cm、0.98和5 647。与传统的LSF+L...     

A discrete correction scheme for envelope approach of wave group statistics

The existence of empty envelope excursions (EEE) brings error to the envelope approach of wave group statistics, which identifies wave group by envelope upcrossing of a critical level. A group number correction scheme is suggested in this paper to exclude EEE from wave group statistics. To this end, the Ditlevson and Lindgren [J. Sound Vib. 122 (1988) 571] theory about the fraction of empty excursion envelopes (FEEE) is examined to see if it fits for ocean waves. The sea waves are simulated with Monte Carlo method and with P-M and JONSWAP spectrums. The values of FEEE of the simulated waves are investigated and compared with the theory of Ditlevson and Lindgren. The comparison shows that, at the second-order approximation, theoretical predictions of FEEE are close to those derived from simulations. This approximate analytical expression of FEEE is then employed to form a group number correction scheme. Comparisons between numerical and theoretical results of wave group properties show that this correction scheme is quite effective.     

一种简便的海洋P-SV转换波叠前偏移成像处理方法

在莺歌海盆地,地震模糊区的成像一直是勘探工作中的一大难题,1998年在该地区采集了多波地震资料,通过对P—SC波的处理,在模糊带成像方面取得了较好的处理效果。在对常规P—SV波处理中的偏移技术等存在的特殊问题进行分析的基础上,提出了一种P—SV波叠前偏移处理的方法,该方法将输入道分选成共转换散射点道集（CCSP）,在CCSP道集中,双程旅行时和等效炮栓距之间满足双曲线关系,故而使得常规处理P—P波的Kirchhof叠前偏移在此也可以运用,至于速度分析它也可以运用P—P波的速度分析方式来进行,因此采用该方法简化了转换波的处理,同时也提高了P-SV波的成像效果。