Elimination of directional wave spectrum contamination from noise in elevation measurements

The Surface Contour Radar (SCR) is a 36-GHz computer-controlled airborne radar which generates a false-color-coded elevation map of the sea surface below the aircraft in real time, and can routinely produce ocean directional wave spectra with post-flight data processing which have much higher angular resolution than pitch-and-roll buoys. The SCR range measurements are not error-free and the resulting errors in the elevations corrupt the directional wave spectrum. This paper presents a technique for eliminating that contamination.     

Spectral wave data assimilation for the prediction of waves in the North Sea

Spectral observations from pitch-and-roll buoys have been assimilated in a North Sea wave model, in order to study their impact on the wave analysis and forecast. The assimilation is based on Optimal Interpolation (OI) of a limited number of characteristic spectral parameters. In a case study, the propagation of the corrections through the model domain is followed, and it is clarified for which wave conditions the data assimilation has the largest influence on the forecast: this is especially the case for swell waves with long travel times between the assimilation site and the location where validation is carried out. A 1-year test has been carried out in which an analysis and subsequent forecast were produced four times a day. From a statistical analysis of the results a modest but systematic improvement of the 12-h forecast is found. When only swell cases are selected, the impact is more pronounced. It is argued that for shelf seas like the North Sea, more progress is to be expected from extension of the ‘conventional' observations network (buoys and wave radars) than from satellite measurements.     

Effects of cross-correlated multiple spatially random soil properties on wave-induced oscillatory seabed response

The evaluation of seabed response under wave loading is important for prediction of stability of foundations of offshore structures. In this study, a stochastic finite element model which integrates the Karhunen-Loève expansion random field simulation and finite element modeling of wave-induced seabed response is established. The wave-induced oscillatory response in a spatially random heterogeneous porous seabed considering cross-correlated multiple soil properties is investigated. The effects of multiple spatial random soil properties, correlation length and the trend function (the relation of the mean value versus depth) on oscillatory pore water pressure and momentary liquefaction are discussed. The stochastic analyses show that the uncertainty bounds of oscillatory pore water pressure are wider for the case with multiple spatially random soil properties compared with those with the single random soil property. The mean pore water pressure of the stochastic analysis is greater than the one obtained by the deterministic analysis. Therefore, the average momentary liquefaction zone in the stochastic analysis is shallower than the deterministic one. The median of momentary liquefaction depth generally decreases with the increase of vertical correlation length. When the slope of the trend function increases, the uncertainty of pore water pressure is greatly reduced at deeper depth of the seabed. Without considering the trend of soil properties, the wave-induced momentary liquefaction potential may be underestimated.     

Impulsive control of stochastic system under the sense of stochastic asymptotical stability

This paper studies the stochastic asymptotical stability of stochastic impulsive differential equations, and establishes a comparison theory to ensure the trivial solution's stochastic asymptotical stability. From the comparison theory, it can find out whether the stochastic impulsive differential system is stable just by studying the stability of a deterministic comparison system. As a general application of this theory, it controls the chaos of stochastic Lü system using impulsive control method, and numerical simulations are employed to verify the feasibility of this method.     

风浪方向分布模式的比较

本文对目前常用的几种风浪方向分布模式进行了分析对比，进而根据由浪高仪阵列和ＥＮＤＥＣＯ９５６测波浮标在我国各海区测得的风浪方向谱，从波能方向分布、方向累积分布、方向分布的峰值和标准差四个方面，与光易恒、Ｈａｓｓｅｌｍａｎｎ和Ｄｏｎｅｌａｎ等分别由观测得到的经验方向分布以及文圣常等由解析方法得到的风浪方向谱进行了比较，结果表明：Ｄｏｎｅｌａｎ分布与实测结果比较一致，文圣常谱也较接近。此外，笔者在渤海由仪器阵列实测方向谱拟合得到的方向分布（改进的光易模式）与各地实测资料也比较符合。     

Stochastic stability of tethered buoyant platforms

A moment method for analysing the stochastic stability of the surge motion of a tethered buoyant platform (TBP) in a random sea is examined. In the differential equation describing the surge motion the variation of tether tension caused by the vertical component of the wave forces is random-time dependent in form. The asymptotic moment behaviour of the solution is determined and approximated in terms of an integral equation. Under the assumption of a narrow band process imposed upon the random coefficient, the stability results are obtained with the aid of deterministic stability theory. The mean square stability is studied and criteria for stability are obtained in terms of the damping coefficient and the auto-correlation function of the random sea.     

A comparative study of some directional sea models

Current specification of the ocean wave environment for the design of offshore platforms does not adequately describe the directional nature of a real seaway. The strong wave frequency dependent nature of the directional behavior of observed seas is often over-simplified for design. A general formulation encompassing a wide range of directional sea models is presented. Parameter values used in some of the more popular directional sea models are examined. Approximate expressions for the two frequency dependent parameters in a modified Longuet-Higgins cosine wave spreading model are presented. A general procedure which allows an engineer to estimate parameters for alternate wave spreading models is discussed. To illustrate this procedure an empirically based modified cosine spreading model is used as the basis to estimate frequency dependent parameters for circular normal and wrapped Gaussian wave spreading models. A comparison of the contours of the various directional sea models and the prediction of the root-mean-square velocity distribution is presented.     

OSB-1浮标网短波数据传输系统

本文介绍了OSB-1浮标网短波数据传输系统的设计方案。系统组成及使用情况。阐述了为改善浮标与岸站的通信质量所开展的工作。并具体说明了为降低短波信道的误码率所采取的一系列行之有效的措施。其结果是:岸站接收的数据与浮标磁带记录的数据相当一致,达到了预期的目的。     

Wave energy assessment based on trivariate distribution of significant wave height,mean period and direction

Based on the Vine copula theory, a trivariate statistical model of significant wave height, characterized wave period and mean wave direction was constructed. To maintain the properties of the different types of variables, a special copula function was derived from the model developed by Johnson and Wehrly based on the maximum entropy principle. It was then combined with the Archimedean copulas to construct the proposed model. An effective algorithm for generating corresponding joint pseudo-random numbers was also developed. Statistical analysis of hindcast data for the significant wave height, mean wave period, and direction, which were collected from an observation point in the North Atlantic every three hours from 1997 to 2001, was performed. The marginal distributions of the significant wave height and mean wave period were fitted by a modified maximum entropy distribution, and the mean wave direction was fitted by a mixture of von Mises distributions. It was shown that the proposed model is a good fit for the data. The seasonal wave energy resources in the target area were assessed using the model estimates. Histograms of the directional wave energy, wave energy roses, and scatter and energy diagrams were presented.     

珍珠贝在南海北部海洋结构物上的分布

:1 98 6— 1 995年在南海北部水域对 1 6个海洋结构物 (其中 1 2个生物调查浮标 ,2个Marex水文资料浮标和 2个固定石油生产平台 )上珍珠贝科 (Pteriidae)的水平和垂直分布进行了调查 ,共发现有珍珠贝科 2属 1 0种。文中讨论了它们的分布与该水域的海流特征、结构物离岸距离及珍珠贝幼虫发育的关系 ,并认为 ,企鹅珍珠贝Pteria(Magnavicula)penguin、短翼珍珠贝P .(Austropteria)brevialata和珠母贝Pinctadamargartifera、鹌鹑珍珠贝Pteria (A .)coturnix将分别为B2站、YM1站和Z1站海区未来海洋结构物污损生物的优势种。     

Directional spread parameter at intermediate water depth

The characteristics of directional spread parameters at intermediate water depth are investigated based on a cosine power ‘2s' directional spreading model. This is based on wave measurements carried out using a Datawell directional waverider buoy in 23 m water depth. An empirical equation for the frequency dependent directional spreading parameter is presented. Directional spreading function estimated based on the Maximum Entropy Method is compared with those obtained using a cosine power ‘2s' parameter model. A set of empirical equations relating the directional spreading parameter corresponding to the peak of wave spectrum to other wave parameters like significant wave height and period are obtained. It shows that the wave directional spreading at peak wave frequency can be related to the non-linearity parameter, which allows estimation of directional spreading without reference to wind information.     

三维波峰的数值模拟

给出了三维波峰的定义,描述了波峰临界值的确定过程,分析了三维随机海浪的方向谱和三维随机海浪的数学描述,在MATLAB环境下设计了随机海面波峰的数值模拟程序,并给出了深水波峰的三维空间模型及其在不同方向传播参数和不同方向函数下平面分布的变化。     

Multidirectional wave transformation around detached breakwaters

The performance of the new wave diffraction feature of the shallow-water spectral model SWAN, particularly its ability to predict the multidirectional wave transformation around shore-parallel emerged breakwaters is examined using laboratory and field data. Comparison between model predictions and field measurements of directional spectra was used to identify the importance of various wave transformation processes in the evolution of the directional wave field. First, the model was evaluated against laboratory measurements of diffracted multidirectional waves around a breakwater shoulder. Excellent agreement between the model predictions and measurements was found for broad frequency and directional spectra. The performance of the model worsened with decreasing frequency and directional spread. Next, the performance of the model with regard to diffraction–refraction was assessed for directional wave spectra around detached breakwaters. Seven different field cases were considered: three wind–sea spectra with broad frequency and directional distributions, each coming from a different direction; two swell–sea bimodal spectra; and two swell spectra with narrow frequency and directional distributions. The new diffraction functionality in SWAN improved the prediction of wave heights around shore-parallel breakwaters. Processes such as beach reflection and wave transmission through breakwaters seem to have a significant role on transformation of swell waves behind the breakwaters. Bottom friction and wave–current interactions were less important, while the difference in frequency and directional distribution might be associated with seiching.     

Development of frequency-dependent ocean wave directional distributions

The paper discusses the development of a frequency dependent directional spread from an initial condition of frequency-independence. The study applies basin directional measurements from the Maritime Research Institute Netherlands (MARIN), simulated data from a nonlinear wave equation, and field measurements from the Ekofisk field. The basin experiments and numerical simulations are initialized with a JONSWAP spectrum with frequency-independent directional distributions. In both cases we observe the development of a strong frequency-dependence of the directional spread. The numerical simulations suggest that static nonlinear contributions to the surface elevation partially explain the behavior below the spectral peak in accordance with [1]. There are also dynamic nonlinear contributions on both sides of the spectral peak.     

Stochastic simulations of ocean waves: An uncertainty quantification study

The primary objective of this study is to introduce a stochastic framework based on generalized polynomial chaos (gPC) for uncertainty quantification in numerical ocean wave simulations. The techniques we present can be easily extended to other numerical ocean simulation applications. We perform stochastic simulations using a relatively new numerical method to simulate the HISWA (Hindcasting Shallow Water Waves) laboratory experiment for directional near-shore wave propagation and induced currents in a shallow-water wave basin. We solve the phased-averaged equation with hybrid discretization based on discontinuous Galerkin projections, spectral elements, and Fourier expansions. We first validate the deterministic solver by comparing our simulation results against the HISWA experimental data as well as against the numerical model SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore). We then perform sensitivity analysis to assess the effects of the parametrized source terms, current field, and boundary conditions. We employ an efficient sparse-grid stochastic collocation method that can treat many uncertain parameters simultaneously. We find that the depth-induced wave-breaking coefficient is the most important parameter compared to other tunable parameters in the source terms. The current field is modeled as random process with large variation but it does not seem to have a significant effect. Uncertainty in the source terms does not influence significantly the region before the submerged breaker whereas uncertainty in the incoming boundary conditions does. Considering simultaneously the uncertainties from the source terms and boundary conditions, we obtain numerical error bars that contain almost all experimental data, hence identifying the proper range of parameters in the action balance equation.     

分析海浪方向谱的EEV方法的一种迭代形式

将Pawka为改进最大似然方法（MLM）而提出的迭代方案应用于扩展本征关方法（EEV），作为EEV的一种迭代形式（IEEV）。用模拟数据检验了IEEV的合理性，并与EEV作了比较。计算结果表明，IEEV的估计性状较EEV有改善。最后将IEEV及EEV用于分析仪器阵列的外海观测数据。     

A method of estimation of the results of reconstruction of the trajectories of drifting buoys

A method for the estimation of the results of reconstruction of the trajectories of drifting buoys is proposed. It is based on the comparison of the estimates of power spectral densities for the components of current velocity computed according to three data sets: the data set of the coordinates of a drifting buoy with a built-in GPS receiver, the data set of coordinates formed on the basis of the first set but with data missing and observational errors corresponding to the actual trajectory measurements by the Argos satellite location and data collection system by the Doppler method, and the data set of coordinates obtained as a result of interpolation of the second set. As an example, we consider the procedure of realization of the proposed method and demonstrate the efficiency of its application for the improvement of the reliability of reconstruction of the trajectories of drifting buoys.     

海洋观测浮标体水中平衡性分析

海洋观测浮标系统应用广泛,浮标体的平衡性能是影响海洋观测浮标使用的重要因素之一(着重观测波浪等水文参数除外)。以一种主体直径为2.3 m的浮标体为例,运用动力学平衡理论,通过数学分析法进行推演计算,分析后得到了此浮标体的重心和浮心的位置。其中,重心位于主浮体的中轴线偏下位置;按照浮标体倾斜一定角度的情况下,推算出浮标体浮心位置,并由此得出其稳心的位置。依据计算,得出浮标体倾斜20°的情况下,此浮标体依然处于稳态平衡,理论结果表明此浮标体设计具有一定的可行性。通过海上实际测试,验证了理论计算分析的正确性。文中对浮标体平衡性的研究采用了理论分析与实验印证相结合的方法,其分析计算方法具有普适性,适用于其他型号的海洋观测浮标体,乃至所有水面浮体的平衡性分析,可为水面浮体设计提供借鉴。     

碟形浮标观测方向波谱误差分析及修正

改进了方向波谱的分析方法及噪声谱经验公式，使本法随测波环境及仪器特性自动修正经验参值，更易于实际应用。基于Maximum heave/pitch quad-spectrum method，由时域及频率域上的浮标动力反应数值计算，推求反应增益因子及相位延迟项，并进一步将其导入方向波谱计算，使其能修正资料浮标对波浪之轴不对称动态反应所造成的相位延迟不一致及主波向误差。经数值仿真验证，该方法的确能消减因资料浮标对波浪之轴不对称动态反应所造成的相位延迟及对主波向估算所造成之影响。应用花莲现场观测资料验证改良之主波向估算方法，得出是否考虑波浪运动与浮标运动间之振幅响应因子及相位延迟因子，所得之主波向的差异介于0－12℃之间。