On isallobaric effect in a quasi-geostrophic topographic-drag problem

Abstract

Isallobaric effect of a slowly varying quasi-geostrophic flow represented by propagating waves may give rise to a mean steady topographic drag component which turns out to be the principal one when viscous effects are negligibly small. This drag component decreases, in contrast to the quasi-geostrophic component, when statistical properties of the topography become isotropic. When the phase velocity of the incident wave is much larger (smaller) than the phase speed of Rossby waves, the isallobaric drag becomes independent (dependent) on the sign of that velocity.     

On reduced-gravity flow through sills

Abstract

The hydraulic flow of a reduced-gravity fluid of non-negative potential vorticity through a sill is considered. It is shown that for any flow with a reversal of current, another, physically realisable, flow exists which is unidirectional and/or resting, and carries more flux than the original flow. Thus only non-negative flows need be considered when examining maximal hydraulic fluxes. Then, for a simple sill (one which slopes downward on the left and upward on the right, looking downstream), it is shown that zero potential vorticity flow, possibly modified by having a region of motionless fluid at its right, carries the maximum flux possible for that sill shape. This makes the calculation of maximal fluxes for a given sill considerably simpler, and examples of parabolic and V-shaped sills are computed.     

Spectral multigrid and collocation methods for barotropic nondivergent flow over irregular coastal topography

Abstract

We describe the high-resolution spectral modelling of nondivergent barotropic linearized flow over steep irregular topography. We use collocation to evaluate spatial derivatives in the barotropic vorticity equation, and a spectral multigrid technique to accelerate the iterative solution of the vorticity—stream function relation. The computational domain is a rectangular channel, which can be conformally mapped into more interesting shapes, as we also discuss. A Fourier-series representation is used in the (periodic) direction parallel to the walls of the channel, and a sine series in the cross-channel direction. For much of the paper we concentrate on the numerical techniques, though results are provided, including an application to the Bass Strait region of southeast Australia.     

Vertical structure of tidal current in a typically coastal raft-culture area

In this paper vertical structure of tidal current in a typically coastal raft-culture area is discussed by field measurement and a numerical model. The observations show that the vertical structure changed dramatically. A tidal surface boundary layer (SBL) is well formed due to the frictional effects induced by extensive, high-density suspended culture as surface obstruction. Both the aquaculture drag and the bottom friction are much higher than those in non-raft-culture areas, and show an obvious variation with tidal flow. The significant earlier ebbing and earlier flooding appear in the upper water column instead of the seabed. And the maximal phase lag is about 1 h within one tide cycle. A 1D hydrodynamic model was modified to include the SBL and parameterized with the field data. It replicated the observed velocity profile and was then used to investigate the impacts of varying culture density and bottom friction on the vertical tidal-current structure. Modeling results indicate that the surface current velocity was largely damped because culture activities enhanced the frictional effects on flow intensively. The magnitude and vertical structure of tidal current are determined together with aquaculture drag and bottom friction. In addition, the vertical velocity structure has a nonlinear trend along with culture density and bottom friction. This study is a theoretical foundation for optimizing aquaculture configuration through regulating culture density and species distribution.     

Discovery of an ancient tsunami deposit in coastal sequences of southwest Japan: Verification of a large historic tsunami

Abstract A tsunamigenic sand layer is present in coastal sequences of the Masuda Plain, southwest Japan. The radiometric age of the layer has been estimated at 930 ± 80 years BP. It is proposed that the deposit is the product of a large historic tsunami believed to have occurred in the Japan Sea on 16 June 1026 AD.     

Variations in the response of the dune coast of northern France to major storms as a function of available beach sediment volume

A series of airborne topographic LiDAR data were obtained from May 2008 to January 2014 over two coastal sites of northern France (Bay of Wissant and east of Dunkirk). These data were used with wind and tide gauge measurements to assess the impacts of storms on beaches and coastal dunes, and particularly of the series of major storms that hit western Europe during the fall and early winter of 2013. Our results show a high variability in shoreline response from one site to the other, but also within each coastal site. Coastal dune erosion and shoreline retreat occurred at both sites, particularly on the coast of the Bay of Wissant where shoreline retreat up to about 40 m was measured. However, stability or even shoreline advance were also observed despite the occurrence of an extreme water level with a return period >100 years during the storm Xaver in early December 2013. Comparison of shoreline change with variations of coastal dune and upper beach volumes revealed only weak relationships. Our results nevertheless showed that shoreline behavior seems to strongly depend on the initial sediment volume on the upper beach before the occurrence of the storms. According to our measurements, an upper beach volume of about 30 m³ m^?1 between the dune toe and the mean high water level is sufficient at these sites to protect the coastal dunes from storm waves associated with high water levels with return periods >10 years. The identification of such thresholds in terms of upper beach width or sediment volume may represent valuable information for improving the management of shoreline change by providing an estimate of the minimum quantity of sand on the upper beach necessary to ensure shoreline stability in this region. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

On the exact shape of the horizontal profile of a topographically rectified tidal flow

Abstract

Starting from the nonlinear shallow water equations of a homogeneous rotating fluid we derive the equation describing the evolution of vorticity by a fluctuating bottom topography of small amplitude, using a multiple scale expansion in a small parameter, which is the topographic length scale relative to the tidal wave length. The exact response functions of residual vorticity for a sinusoidal bottom topography are compared with those obtained by a primitive perturbation series and by harmonic truncation, showing the former to be invalid for small topographic length scales and the latter to be only a fair approximation for vorticity produced by planetary vortex stretching. In deriving the exact shape of the horizontal residual velocity profile at a step-like break in the bottom topography, it is shown that the Lagrangian profile only exists in a strip having the width of the amplitude of the tidal excursion at both sides of the break, and that it vanishes outside that interval. Moreover, in the limit of small amplitude topography at least, it vanishes altogether for the generation mechanism by means of planetary vortex stretching. The Eulerian profile is shown to extend over twice the interval of the Lagrangian profile both for production by vortex stretching and by differential bottom friction. These finite intervals over which the residual velocity profiles exist for a step-like topography are not reproduced by harmonic truncation of the basic equation. This method gives exponentially decaying profiles, indicating spurious horizontal diffusion of vorticity. In terms of orders of magnitude, the method of harmonic truncation is reliable for residual velocity produced by vortex stretching but it overestimates the residual velocity produced by differential bottom friction by a factor 2.     

Effect of variable‐density groundwater flow on nitrate flux to coastal waters

A two‐dimensional variable‐density groundwater flow and transport model was developed to provide a conceptual understanding of past and future conditions of nitrate (NO₃) transport and estimate groundwater nitrate flux to the Gulf of Mexico. Simulation results show that contaminant discharge to the coast decreases as the extent of saltwater intrusion increases. Other natural and/or artificial surface waters such as navigation channels may serve as major sinks for contaminant loading and act to alter expected transport pathways discharging contaminants to other areas. Concentrations of NO₃ in the saturated zone were estimated to range between 30 and 160 mg?L^?1 as NO₃. Relatively high hydraulic vertical gradients and mixing likely play a significant role in the transport processes, enhancing dilution and contaminant migration to depth. Residence times of NO₃ in the deeper aquifers vary from 100 (locally) to about 300 years through the investigated aquifer system. NO₃ mass fluxes from the shallow aquifers (0 to 5.7 × 10⁴ mg?m^?2?day^?1) were primarily directed towards the navigation channel, which intersects and captures a portion of the shallow groundwater flow/discharge. Direct NO₃ discharge to the sea (i.e. Gulf of Mexico) from the shallow aquifer was very low (0 to 9.0 × 10¹ mg · m^?2?day^?1) compared with discharge from the deeper aquifer system (0 to 8.2 × 10³ mg?m^?2?day^?1). Both model‐calibrated and radiocarbon tracer‐determined contaminant flux estimates reveal similar discharge trends, validating the use of the model for density‐dependent flow conditions. The modelling approach shows promise to evaluate contaminant and nutrient loading for similar coastal regions worldwide. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Global distribution of coastal cliffs

Previous studies have estimated that coastal cliffs exist on about 80% of the global shoreline, but have not been validated on a global scale. This study uses two approaches to capture information on the worldwide existence and erosion of coastal cliffs: a detailed literature survey and imagery search, and a GIS-based global mapping analysis. The literature and imagery review show coastal cliffs exist in 93% of the combined recognized independent coastal states and non-independent coastal regions worldwide (total of 213 geographic units). Additionally, cliff retreat rates have been quantified in at least one location within 33% of independent coastal states and 15% of non-independent regions. The GIS-based mapping used the near-global Shuttle Radar Topography Mission 3 arc second digital elevation model and Arctic Coastal Dynamics Database to obtain near-global backshore coastal elevations at 1 km alongshore intervals comprising about 1,340,000 locations (81% of the world vector shoreline). Backshore coastal elevations were compared with the mapped distribution of European coastal cliffs to produce a model training set, and this relationship was extended globally to map the likelihood of coastal cliff locations. About 21% of the transects (17% of the world vector shoreline) were identified as mangroves and eliminated as potential cliff locations. The results were combined with estimates of cliff percentages for Greenland and Antarctica from the literature, extending the global coverage to estimate cliff occurrence across 89% of the world vector shoreline. The results suggest coastal cliffs likely exist on about 52% of the global shoreline. © 2018 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.     

Wave erosion of a massive artificial coastal landslide

The Lone Tree landslide is located on the coast north of San Francisco, California, and is unusual in that it is positioned within the San Andreas fault zone. Its material ranges from mud through to boulders, which makes the slide particularly susceptible to mass movement. Movement of its western half increased following the Loma Prieta earthquake in 1989, closing an important highway for over a year, at which time a large cut-and-fill operation was undertaken to remove the upper portion of the slide so it would create no future disruption. Material cut from the upper slide was dumped below the highway, with the debris extending into the ocean. This created an artificial debris fill that is equivalent to a massive natural landslide, and a unique opportunity to monitor its erosion. Rainfall quickly eroded a series of rills into the face of the artificially created landslide, but the concentration of gravel and cobbles armoured these small channels, greatly reducing the rate of subsequent erosion. Waves cut away the toe, and the focus of this paper is on the development of a model to analyse the frequency of wave attack in terms of tide levels and wave conditions. A beach consisting of cobbles and boulders formed at the toe of the debris, offering partial protection and reducing the rate of continued erosion. In the short term, armouring of the rills and the development of a fronting beach have reduced the overall erosion of the debris and the transfer of sediment to the ocean. In the longer term, the formation of secondary slumps can be expected to renew the erosion. Eventually the morphology of the debris fill should approach the configuration of the natural landslide, an unmodified portion of which remains adjacent to the artificial fill. © 1998 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Challenging assumptions of future coastal habitat development around the UK

One habitat management requirement forced by 21st century relative sea‐level rise (RSLR), will be the need to re‐comprehend the dimensions of long‐term transgressive behaviour of coastal systems being forced by such RSLR. Fresh approaches to the conceptual modelling and subsequent implementation of new coastal and peri‐marine habitats will be required. There is concern that existing approaches to forecasting coastal systems development (and by implication their associated scarce coastal habitats) over the next century depend on a certain premise of orderly spatial succession of habitats. This assumption is shown to be questionable given the possible future rates of RSLR, magnitude of shoreline retreat and the lack of coastal sediment to maintain the protective morphologies to low‐energy coastal habitats. Of these issues, sediment deficiency is regarded as one of the major problem for future habitat development. Examples of contemporary behaviour of UK coasts show evidence of coastal sediment starvation resulting from relatively stable RSLR, anthropogenic sealing of coastal sources, and intercepted coastal sediment pathways, which together force segmentation of coastal systems. From these examples key principles are deduced which may prejudice the existence of future habitats: accelerated future sediment demand due to RSLR may not be met by supply and, if short‐ to medium‐term hold‐the‐line policies predominate, long‐term strategies for managed realignment and habitat enhancement may prove impossible goals. Methods of contemporary sediment husbandry may help sustain some habitats in place but otherwise, instead of integrated coastal organization, managers may need to consider coastal breakdown, segmentation and habitat reduction as the basis of 21st century coastal evolution and planning. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Terrestrial LiDAR monitoring of coastal foredune evolution in managed and unmanaged systems

Coastal dunes provide essential protection for infrastructure in developed regions, acting as the first line of defence against ocean-side flooding. Quantifying dune erosion, growth and recovery from storms is critical from management, resiliency and engineering with nature perspectives. This study utilizes 22 months of high-resolution terrestrial LiDAR (Riegl VZ-2000) observations to investigate the impact of management, anthropogenic modifications and four named storms on dune morphological evolution along ~100 m of an open-coast, recently nourished beach in Nags Head, NC. The influences of specific management strategies – such as fencing and plantings – were evaluated by comparing these to the morphologic response at an unmanaged control site at the USACE Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, NC (33 km to the north), which experienced similar environmental forcings. Various beach-dune morphological parameters were extracted (e.g. backshore-dune volume) and compared with aeolian and hydrodynamic forcing metrics between each survey interval. The results show that LiDAR is a useful tool for quantifying complex dune evolution over fine spatial and temporal scales. Under similar forcings, the managed dune grew 1.7 times faster than the unmanaged dune, due to a larger sediment supply and enhanced capture through fencing, plantings and walkovers. These factors at the managed site contributed to the welding of the incipient dune to the primary foredune over a short period of less than a year, which has been observed to take up to decades in natural systems. Storm events caused alongshore variable dune erosion primarily to the incipient dune, yet also caused significant accretion, particularly along the crest at the managed site, resulting in net dune growth. Traditional empirical Bagnold equations correlated with observed trends of backshore-dune growth but overpredicted magnitudes. This is likely because these formulations do not encompass supply-limiting factors and erosional processes. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Amplification of disturbances on a channel flow

Abstract

The stability of a rotating, stationary flow of zero potential vorticity in a slowly varying channel is examined using the method of multiple scales. This technique can be applied when the variations of the basic flow occur on a length scale which is much larger than the one associated with the perturbation. To lowest order the disturbance is described by a propagating part multiplied by a slowly changing amplitude. It is shown that when the phase speed of a disturbance approaches zero, the growth of the amplitude becomes unbounded. This happens when a perturbation superimposed upon a flow which is slightly sub/supercritical, or which alters from a super- to a subcritical state, propagates over a shoaling bottom. If, however, the change of the basic flow is from a sub- to a supercritical state, the phase speed is quite large and the amplitude of the perturbation will just show minor variations along the channel. The same holds true if the steady flow is only moderately affected by the changing topography. The problem has also been analyzed using wave-action formalism, and the outcome of this alternative approach to the stability problem proved to conform to the previously obtained results. Finally, an interpretation of the calculated growth rates is undertaken in terms of “convective” amplification and “absolute” instability.     

Cost-efficient management of coastal aquifers via recharge with treated wastewater and desalination of brackish groundwater: general framework

Abstract

Semi-arid coastal zones often suffer water-stress, as water demand is high and markedly seasonal, due to agriculture and tourism. Driven by scarcity of surface water, the communities in semi-arid coastal regions turn to aquifers as prime water source; but intensive exploitation of coastal aquifers causes seawater intrusion, which degrades the quality of groundwater. The cost-efficient and sustainable development of coastal aquifers can be achieved through a holistic management scheme which combines two non-traditional water sources: (a) saltwater, to be treated to the desired quality, and (b) wastewater, to be re-claimed to augment aquifer recharge for control of seawater intrusion, and also to meet certain demands. This management scheme is based on the idea that it is cost-advantageous to: (i) desalt brackish groundwater, instead of seawater, as the former requires far less energy, and (ii) to re‐use wastewater at only the differential cost to any treatment already practiced. In this paper, we present the general framework of the proposed management scheme, and a decision aid tool (DAT) which has been developed to assist decision makers to explore the scheme's decision space. The DAT uses cost as optimization criterion to screen various management scenarios, via modelling of the dynamic natural-engineered system behaviour, and identifies those cost-efficient ones that meet the water demand and achieve aquifer protection.

Citation Koussis, A. D., Georgopoulou, E., Kotronarou, A., Lalas, D. P., Restrepo, P., Destouni, G., Prieto, C., Rodriguez, J. J., Rodriguez-Mirasol, J., Cordero, T. & Gomez-Gotor, A. (2010 Koussis, A. D., Georgopoulou, E., Kotronarou, A., Mazi, K., Restrepo, P., Destouni, G., Prieto, C., Rodriguez, J. J., Rodriguez-Mirasol, J., Cordero, T., Schwartz, J., Ioannou, C., Georgiou, A. and Zacharias, I. 2010. Cost-efficient management of coastal aquifers in water-stressed regions via recharge with treated wastewater and desalination of brackish groundwater: application to the Akrotiri basin and aquifer, Cyprus. Hydrol. Sci. J, 55(7): 1234–1245. [Taylor & Francis Online], [Web of Science ®] , [Google Scholar]) Cost-efficient management of coastal aquifers via recharge with treated wastewater and desalination of brackish groundwater: general framework. Hydrol. Sci. J. 55(7),1217–1233.     

Influence of surface roughness of dune bedforms on flow and turbulence characteristics

The current paper investigates the flow and turbulence characteristics over dune bedforms by means of laboratory experiments, where spatially dense and temporally high frequency velocity measurements were done. Although similar studies are available in the literature, the focus and novelty of the current study is to assess the influence of surface roughness of the dune bedforms on the nearbed flow. For direct comparison, two different surface roughness heights over idealized, fixed-shaped, high-angled dune bedforms were tested; one with a hydraulically-smooth surface, and the other with a fully-rough surface. Spatial variation of time-averaged flow as well as turbulence statistics were examined, which was complemented by streamline plots and spectral analyses. The results are interpreted from sediment entrainment and sediment transport points of view. The results show that increased dune surface roughness reduces the nearbed flow velocity, but increases the flow velocities at upper regions. The upward directed flow near the dune crests becomes stronger in the case of smooth surface, while the re-attachment point moves further downstream compared to the rough wall case. It is concluded that the roughness of the dune surface affects the nearbed flow and turbulence characteristics qualitatively and quantitatively, which is shown to have direct consequences on sediment entrainment characteristics.     

Monitoring coastal morphology: the potential of low-cost fixed array action cameras for 3D reconstruction

The combination of structure-from-motion with multi-view stereo (SfM-MVS) photogrammetry has become an increasingly popular method for the monitoring and three-dimensional (3D) reconstruction of coastal environments. Climate change is driving the potential for increased coastal landward retreat meaning geomorphological monitoring using methods such as SfM-MVS has become essential for detecting and tracking impacts. SfM-MVS has been well-researched with a variety of platforms and spatial and temporal resolutions using mainly rectilinear digital cameras in coastal settings. However, there has been no assessment of the potential of fixed multi-camera arrays to monitor landward retreat or on the significance of camera placement in relation to the scene. This study presents an innovative method of image acquisition using a purpose-built camera grid and GoPro© action camera to evaluate the combined effects of camera height, obliqueness and overlap at a site of known landward retreat. This approach examines the effect of camera placement on scene reconstruction to aid the design of a multi-camera array. SfM-MVS dense point clouds display millimetre accuracy when compared to equivalent terrestrial laser scans and strong image network geometry with internal precision estimates of < 3 mm. Comparable point cloud reconstruction can be achieved with a small number of images stationed in appropriate positions. Initial results show as few as five images positioned at a cliff to camera ratio of 3:4.18 and camera obliqueness of 40° can provide reconstruction in the range of millimetres (mean error of 4.79 mm). These findings illustrate the importance of camera placement when using multiple cameras and aid the design of a low-cost, fixed multi-camera array for use at sites of small-scale landward retreat. © 2020 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd     

Investigation of three‐dimensional wind flow behaviour over coastal dune morphology under offshore winds using computational fluid dynamics (CFD) and ultrasonic anemometry

The behaviour of offshore‐directed winds over coastal dune and beach morphology was examined using a combination of modelling (3‐D computational fluid dynamics (CFD)) and field measurement. Both model simulations and field measurements showed reversal of offshore flows at the back beach and creation of an onshore sediment transport potential. The influence of flow reversals on the beach‐dune transport system and foredune growth patterns has previously received little attention. Detailed wind flow measurements were made using an extensive array of mast‐mounted, 3‐D ultrasonic anemometers (50 Hz), arranged parallel to the dominant incident wind direction. Large eddy simulation (LES) of the offshore wind flow over the dune was conducted using the open‐source CFD tool openFOAM. The computational domain included a terrain model obtained by airborne LiDAR and detailed ground DGPS measurements. The computational grid (~22 million cells) included localized mesh refinement near the complex foredune terrain to capture finer details of the dune morphology that might affect wind flows on the adjacent beach. Measured and simulated wind flow are presented and discussed. The CFD simulations offer new insights into the flow mechanics associated with offshore winds and how the terrain steering of wind flow impacts on the geomorphological behaviour of the dune system. Simulation of 3‐D wind flows over complex terrain such as dune systems, presents a valuable new tool for geomorphological research, as it enables new insights into the relationship between the wind field and the underlying topography. The results show that offshore and obliquely offshore winds result in flow reversal and onshore directed winds at distances of up to 20 m from the embryo dune toe. The potential geomorphological significance of the findings are discussed and simple calculations show that incoming offshore and obliquely offshore winds with mean velocities over 13 m s^?1 and 7 m s^?1, respectively, have the potential to create onshore‐directed winds at the back beach with mean velocities above 3.3 m s^?1. These are above the threshold of movement for dry sand and support previous conclusions about the significance of offshore winds in dune and beach budget calculations. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A long-term series of zooplankton monitoring of a shallow coastal water of the southern Baltic

Data on the seasonal variability of the quality and quantity of zooplankton are presented for the shallow eutrophic Darss-Zingst estuary. These data are the result of a monitoring programm from 1969–1995. Copepods and rotifers were the main components of the biomass. They showed a pattern of seasonal fluctuation which remained unchanged during the whole period of investigation. Copeods were dominant in spring and autumn and had their maximum in summer. Considerable biomass peaks of cladocerans were observed only in some years in connection with low salinities and high temperatures. A peak of meroplanktic larvae of polychates was observed in late autumn since 1989. Copepods were inversily correlated with the pH-value. An inverse correlation was also found between rotifers and water temperature.     

On the correspondence between morphological and hydrodynamical patterns of groyne fields

This paper examines a variety of recirculation flow patterns that develop in the groyne fields on rivers. A comprehensive data set was obtained from flume experiments at Delft University of Technology and field measurements performed on the Elbe River in Germany. The analysis focuses on patterns of velocity, scour and deposition, and corresponding change of riverbed morphology. The results show that velocity patterns in the groyne fields depend mainly on the aspect ratio between groyne length and length of groyne field. When the aspect ratio is greater than 0·5, a one‐gyre pattern of recirculation develops, while at groyne fields with aspect ratios less than 0·5 a two‐gyre recirculation pattern emerges. The spatial distribution of fine‐sediment deposition between the groynes coincides with the locations of gyres. Moreover, the thickness of the fine‐sediment layer decreases toward the gyre margins where recirculation velocities are greatest. Although the total concentration of suspended sediment in the river does not change considerably as the flow moves through the groyne field, the biological and gravimetrical composition of the suspended material changes substantially within the groyne field. These changes are due to preferential deposition of coarse mineral particles and the replacement of those minerals with finer organic material. Copyright © 2002 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.