VHF radar observations of surface currents off the northern Opal coast in the eastern English Channel

Two very high-frequency radars (VHFR) operating on the Opal coast of eastern English Channel provided a nearly continuous 35-day long dataset of surface currents over a 500 km² area at 0.6–1.8 km resolution. Argo drifter tracking and CTD soundings complemented the VHFR observations, which extended approximately 25 km offshore. The radar data resolve three basic modes of the surface velocity variation in the area, that are driven by tides, winds and freshwater fluxes associated with seasonal river discharge. The first mode, accounting for 90% of variability, is characterized by an along-shore flow pattern, whereas the second and third modes exhibit cross-shore, and eddy-like structures in the current velocity field. All the three modes show the dominant semi-diurnal variability and low-frequency modulation by the neap-spring tidal cycle. Although tidal forcing provides the major contribution to variability of local currents, baroclinicity plays an important role in shaping the 3D velocity field averaged over the tidal cycle and may strongly affect tracer dynamics on larger time scales. An empirical orthogonal function (EOF) decomposition and a spectral rotary analysis of the VHFR data reveal a discontinuity in the velocity field occurring approximately 10 km offshore which was caused by the reversal in the sign of rotation of the current vector. This feature of local circulation is responsible for surface current convergence on ebb, divergence on flood and strong oscillatory vertical motion. Spectral analysis of the observed currents and the results of the Agro drifter tracking indicate that the line of convergence approximately follows the 30-m isobath. The most pronounced feature of the radar-derived residual circulation is the along-coast intensification of surface currents with velocity magnitude of 0.25 m/s typical for the Regions of Freshwater Influence (ROFI). The analysis has provided a useful, exploratory examination of surface currents, suggesting that the circulation off the Opal coast is governed by ROFI dynamics on the hypertidal background.     

Effect of coastal waves on sea level in Óbidos Lagoon,Portugal

This study reports the role of waves, tide, wind and freshwater discharges over the sea level in Óbidos Lagoon, a coastal system connected to the sea through a narrow and shallow mobile inlet. To address the hydrodynamic features of this coastal system, the relative importance of different physical forcings were evaluated. For this purpose, observations together with realistic and idealized numerical modeling were used. Both model and measurements show that the lagoon sea level remains above offshore sea level during storm wave periods. Hence, a simplified inlet-lagoon idealized model was described through mathematical expressions, to understand and highlight the physical processes responsible for sea-level elevation.     

Modelling the wave phenomena in acoustic and elastic media with sharp variations of physical properties using the grid‐characteristic method

This paper introduces a novel method of modelling acoustic and elastic wave propagation in inhomogeneous media with sharp variations of physical properties based on the recently developed grid‐characteristic method which considers different types of waves generated in inhomogeneous linear‐elastic media (e.g., longitudinal, transverse, Stoneley, Rayleigh, scattered PP‐, SS‐waves, and converted PS‐ and SP‐waves). In the framework of this method, the problem of solving acoustic or elastic wave equations is reduced to the interpolation of the solutions, determined at earlier time, thus avoiding a direct solution of the large systems of linear equations required by the FD or FE methods. We apply the grid‐characteristic method to compare wave phenomena computed using the acoustic and elastic wave equations in geological medium containing a hydrocarbon reservoir or a fracture zone. The results of this study demonstrate that the developed algorithm can be used as an effective technique for modelling wave phenomena in the models containing hydrocarbon reservoir and/or the fracture zones, which are important targets of seismic exploration.     

Concentration profiles for fine and coarse sediments suspended by waves over ripples: An analytical study with the 1-DV gradient diffusion model

Field and laboratory measurements of suspended sediments over wave ripples show, for time-averaged concentration profiles in semi-log plots, a contrast between upward convex profiles for fine sand and upward concave profiles for coarse sand. Careful examination of experimental data for coarse sand shows a near-bed upward convex profile beneath the main upward concave profile. Available models fail to predict these two profiles for coarse sediments. The 1-DV gradient diffusion model predicts the main upward concave profile for coarse sediments thanks to a suitable β(y)$\beta (y)$-function (where β$\beta$ is the inverse of the turbulent Schmidt number and y   is the distance from the bed). In order to predict the near-bed upward convex profile, an additional parameter α$\alpha$ is needed. This parameter could be related to settling velocity (α$\alpha$ equal to inverse of dimensionless settling velocity) or to convective sediment entrainment process. The profiles are interpreted by a relation between second derivative of the logarithm of concentration and derivative of the product between sediment diffusivity and α$\alpha$.     

Modelling larval dispersal and settlement of the reef-building polychaete Sabellaria alveolata: Role of hydroclimatic processes on the sustainability of biogenic reefs

The honeycomb worm Sabellaria alveolata forms biogenic reefs which constitute diversity hotspots on tidal flats. The largest known reefs in Europe, located in the Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel (English Channel), are suffering increasing anthropogenic disturbances which raise the question of their sustainability. As the ability to recover depends partly on the recolonization of damaged reefs by larval supply, evaluating larval dispersal and the connectivity between distant reefs is a major challenge for their conservation. In the present study, we used a 3D biophysical model to simulate larval dispersal under realistic hydroclimatic conditions and estimate larval retention and exchanges among the two reefs of different sizes within the bay. The model takes into account fine-scale hydrodynamic circulation (800×800 m²), advection–diffusion larval transport, and gregarious settlement behaviour. According to the field data, larval dispersal was simulated for a minimal planktonic larval duration ranging from 4 to 8 weeks and the larval mortality was set to 0.09 d⁻¹. The results highlighted the role played by a coastal eddy on larval retention within the bay, as suggested by previous in situ observations. Very different dispersal patterns were revealed depending on the spawning reef location, although the two reefs were located only 15 km apart. The settlement success of the larvae released from the smallest reef was mainly related to tidal conditions at spawning, with the highest settlement success for releases at neap tide. The settlement success of the larvae from the biggest reef was more dependent on meteorological conditions: favourable W and SW winds may promote a ten-fold increase in settlement success. Strong year-to-year variability was observed in settlers’ numbers, with favourable environmental windows not always coinciding with the main reproductive periods of Sabellaria. Settlement kinetics indicated that the ability to delay metamorphosis could significantly improve the settlement success. Although bidirectional exchanges occurred between the two reefs, the highest settlers’ numbers originated from the biggest reef because of its stronger reproductive output. Because of the recent decline of this reef due to increasing anthropogenic disturbances larval supply in the bay may not be sufficient enough to ensure the sustainability of the remarkable habitat formed by Sabellaria alveolata reefs.     

The morphodynamic responses to deposition-promoting projects in island and reef coasts of the Zhoushan Archipelago,China

China's island and reef coasts are mainly distributed along the coasts of Zhejiang and Fujian provinces. These areas have favorable deep-water conditions and great development potential. The Zhoushan Archipelago is a typical island and reef coast. In the midst of the islands, there are many tidal channels with high water depth and high current velocity. Daishan Island is located on the northern part of the Zhoushan Archipelago. The sea north of Daishan Island can be characterized as having great water depth (generally between 10 and 20 m), high current velocity (the maximum measured value is about 2 m/s), and hyperconcentrated suspended sediment (annual average concentration under normal weather conditions is about 0.6 kg/m3). Sediment transport is influenced by the co-action of waves and currents. Land reclamation can ease the contradiction between the desire for development and the land resource shortage on island and reef coasts. Land reclamation generally starts from deposition-promoting projects on island and reef coasts with hyperconcentration of suspended sediment with the aim of reducing the reclamation cost. Based on the morphodynamic characteristics of the sea area near north of Daishan Island, a two-dimensional mathematical model was developed to analyze the co-action of current and waves and the model was verified for spring as well as neap tides in 2007 and 2012. The simulated values of tidal stages, tidal current velocities, tidal current directions, and suspended sediment concentration at 15 stations in 2007 and 9 stations in 2012 were in good agreement with the in-situ measured values. Furthermore, the simulated magnitude and pattern of erosion and sedimentation agreed well with the observations. This model was used to evaluate the effects of a proposed siltation scheme on the hydrodynamic environment and morphological change of the study area. The results of this study can inform the protection, development, and utilization of shoal-channels on island and reef coasts, as well provide a scientific basis for comprehensive maritime protection and development.     

Elastic properties of seafloor sediments from the modelling of amplitudes of multiple water waves recorded on the seafloor off Bear Island,North Atlantic

Wide‐angle seismic data acquired by use of air‐guns and ocean bottom seismometers (OBS) contain strong direct water arrivals and multiples, generally considered as noise and thus not included in the modelling. However, a recent study showed that standard ray‐tracing modelling of the water multiples recorded off the Bear Island, North Atlantic, provided a reliable estimate of the velocity distribution in the water layer. Here, we demonstrate that including the amplitudes in the modelling provide valuable information about the V_P contrast at the seafloor, as well as the V_P/V_S ratio and attenuation (Q_P) of the uppermost sediments. The V_P contrast at the seafloor is estimated at about 250 m/s, within a precision of approximately ±30 m/s. The V_P/V_S ratio in the uppermost sedimentary layer is modelled in the range 2.25–2.50 and the Q_P factor is estimated at 1000 for the water, 30–50 for the uppermost layer and 40–50 for the second sedimentary layer. The values obtained for the sediments suggest a lithology dominated by silty clays, with porosity below average.     

Medium timescale stability of tidal mudflats in Bridgwater Bay,Bristol Channel,UK: Influence of tides,waves and climate

This paper presents the results of an 11-year study into mudflat elevation changes within the intertidal zone at Stert Flats in Bridgwater Bay, Somerset. This site is located in the outer Severn Estuary/inner Bristol Channel which is a macro-hypertidal regime dominated by physical processes, characterized by strong tidal currents, high turbidity and a significant degree of exposure to wind generated waves. Two transects of stakes were installed perpendicular to the coast, extending seawards 300 m from the edge of the saltmarsh onto the mudflats, against which variations in accretion or erosion could be measured. The mudflats themselves consisted of an underlying consolidated clay of Holocene age and a surface veneer of fluid mud and/or mobile sand patches which varied both spatially and temporally. Mudflat development was recorded over both short-term (monthly/seasonal) and medium-term (inter-annual) timescales. The results display a significant degree of scatter over all timescales. Such variability in response may be expected in such a dynamic system where noise can be attributed to a combination of factors such as the mobility of surface fluid mud and sand patches and the migration of the underlying ridge–runnel drainage network. Despite this, the expected short-term variations related to neap–spring tidal conditions and seasonal influences were observed at a number of locations on the transects although these were weakly expressed. The over-riding feature of the profiles is a consistent long-term trend of erosion which appears to be masking shorter term trends within the dataset. Viewed over the 11-year period, the changes in mudflat elevation closely match the pattern of the index of the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) during the 1990s, suggesting a strong climatic control over mudflat development on a medium-term/decadal scale. Most profiles display a strong erosional trend during the early 1990s when the NAO index was positive. The erosional trend peaked in 1995 at a time during which the values for monthly winter mean significant wave height were notably high. Between 1996 and 2001 the profiles generally record accretion and the data display significant variability. This corresponds with a shift to a strongly negative and then weakly positive NAO index phase. The fact that such a general atmospheric factor correlates so closely with medium timescale elevation change is attributed to relative weakness of biological binding and burrowing at this site, and more-so to the overwhelming dominance of the physical regime, especially the tidal current and the wind–wave regime. Both the background erosional trend and the influence of the index of the NAO in controlling mudflat evolution have important implications relating to coastal management. These are discussed in relation to coastal defence measures, morphological response to major civil engineering projects (e.g. Severn Tidal Power Barrage) and the prospect of climate change, sea-level rise and a possible increase in strength of NAO conditions in the future.     

Consequences of spring phytodetritus sedimentation on the benthic compartment along a depth gradient in the Eastern English Channel

Phaeocystis blooms are of major importance in the Eastern English Channel, where they significantly contribute to spring organic matter input with chlorophyll concentrations commonly higher than 30 microgl(-1) in the water column. Post-bloom deposition of Phaeocystis derived mucilaginous compounds has been shown to have a major importance on benthic intertidal systems, but resulting mineralization processes and consequences on the macrobenthic compartment remain poorly documented in subtidal areas. In this frame, a study was performed along the French coast of the English Channel to quantify mineralization processes, as well as potential consequences on subtidal sediments, especially their geochemistry and associated macrofaunal communities. Seven stations were studied along a depth gradient during four cruises: before (March), during (April, May) and after (June) the spring bloom. Sediment characteristics and organic carbon content were described, as well as sediment-water fluxes of oxygen and ammonium. Macrofaunal characteristics were also analyzed. Stations were chosen as representative of the various benthic communities present in the area, which are directly linked to the granulometric characteristics of the sediments. To account for the general functioning of the water column, characterized by a coastal flow where higher concentrations of Phaeocystis are generally recorded, similar communities were sampled inshore and offshore, when possible: (i) the Abra alba community located only close to the coast, (ii) the Ophelia borealis community located inshore and offshore, and (iii) the Amphioxus lanceolatus community located inshore and offshore. Generally, low exchange rates of oxygen and ammonium were measured (respectively, in the range 50-150 micromol O2 m(-2)h(-1) and -25 to 35 micromol NH4+ m(-2)h(-1)) between the water column and the muddy-sand to coarse sand permeable sediments, as a consequence of the low organic carbon content due to the high hydrodynamic forcing. As a consequence of organic matter accumulation in surficial sediments probably resulting from Phaeocystis post-bloom deposition, an increase of sediment oxygen demand and ammonium release was clearly evidenced up to 660 micromol O2 m(-2)h(-1) and 205 micromol NH4+ m(-2)h(-1) in May, only in stations located close to the coast (<8 kms), in the A. alba community. Despite those significant biogeochemical changes in surficial sediments, no significant consequence was pointed out on macrofauna, neither in the O. borealis and A. lanceolatus communities, nor in the coastal A. alba community. Most of the temporal variations recorded might be attributed to the common spring population dynamics, but this study highlights the potential use of geochemical parameters as a forewarning signal of benthic disequilibrium.     

Modeling the impact of wind and waves on suspended particulate matter fluxes in the East Frisian Wadden Sea (southern North Sea)

Suspended particulate matter (SPM) fluxes and dynamics are investigated in the East Frisian Wadden Sea using a coupled modeling system based on a hydrodynamical model [the General Estuarine Transport Model (GETM)], a third-generation wave model [Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)], and a SPM module attached to GETM. Sedimentological observations document that, over longer time periods, finer sediment fractions disappear from the Wadden Sea Region. In order to understand this phenomenon, a series of numerical scenarios were formulated to discriminate possible influences such as tidal currents, wind-enhanced currents, and wind-generated surface waves. Starting with a simple tidal forcing, the considered scenarios are designed to increase the realism step by step to include moderate and strong winds and waves and, finally, to encompass the full effects of one of the strongest storm surges affecting the region in the last hundred years (Storm Britta in November 2006). The results presented here indicate that moderate weather conditions with wind speeds up to 7.5 m/s and small waves lead to a net import of SPM into the East Frisian Wadden Sea. Waves play only a negligible role during these conditions. However, for stronger wind conditions with speeds above 13 m/s, wind-generated surface waves have a significant impact on SPM dynamics. Under storm conditions, the numerical results demonstrate that sediments are eroded in front of the barrier islands by enhanced wave action and are transported into the back-barrier basins by the currents. Furthermore, sediment erosion due to waves is significantly enhanced on the tidal flats. Finally, fine sediments are flushed out of the tidal basins due to the combined effect of strong erosion by wind-generated waves and a longer residence time in the water column because of their smaller settling velocities compared to coarser sediments.

Application of a finite element model to the computation of tides in the Mersey Estuary and Eastern Irish Sea

A variable mesh finite element model of the Irish and Celtic Sea regions with/without the inclusion of the Mersey estuary is used to examine the influence of grid resolution and the Mersey upon the higher harmonics of the tide in the region. Comparisons are made with observations and published results from finite difference models of the area. Although including a high resolution representation of the Mersey had little effect upon computed tides in the western Irish Sea it had a significant effect upon tidal currents in the eastern Irish Sea. In addition the higher harmonics of the M₂ tide in near-shore regions of the eastern Irish Sea particularly the Solway and Mersey estuary together with Morecambe Bay showed significant small scale variability. The Mersey was used to test the sensitivity to including estuaries because high resolution accurate topography was available. The results presented here suggest that comparable detailed topographic data sets are required in all estuaries and near-shore regions. In addition comparisons clearly show the need for an unstructured grid model of the region that can include all the estuaries. Such an unstructured grid solution was developed here within a finite element approach, although other methods in particular the finite volume, or coordinate transformations/curvilinear grids and nesting could be applied.     

The effects of Phaeocystis globosa bloom on the dynamics of the mineralization processes in intertidal permeable sediment in the Eastern English Channel (Wimereux, France)

In the Eastern part of the English Channel, high biomasses of the phytoplankton prymnesiophyceae Phaeocystisglobosa (reaching biomasses over 20 microg Chlal(-1)) are a recurrent spring event (March-June). A significant part of the pelagic Phaeocystis-derived organic matter can be broken down in the sandy permeable sediment that makes up most of the intertidal zone in this part of the Channel. Sediment characteristics, macrofaunal distribution, bacterial biomass, organic carbon content, sediment oxygen demand (SOD), and the sediment-water flux of dissolved inorganic nitrogen and silicates were calculated for an exposed sandy beach (Wimereux, France) over a two-year period (2004-2006). According to the data collected, the SOD remains relatively low throughout the whole survey (64-306 micromol m(-2)h(-1)), indicating limited mineralization. However, the same data reveals a temporal variability in the flux, with a sharp increase in the SOD and ammonium released in spring when Phaeocystis-derived phytodetritus was deposited. The organic carbon content and bacterial biomass values indicate similar patterns of increase in response to the phytodetritus deposit. The nitrogen cycle also appears to be modified during the Phaeocystis bloom, with a clear stimulation of nitrification. The influence of various factors (e.g., temperature, nutrient concentrations, and bacterial activity) on the temporal fluctuations of the exchanges is discussed, as are the direct effects of spring bloom. A synthesis of the annual cycle of the mineralization dynamics in this permeable sediment type is also presented.     

Variations in trace element geochemistry in the Seine River Basin based on floodplain deposits and bed sediments

Between 1990 and 1995 a series of bed sediment, suspended sediment and fresh floodplain samples were collected within the Seine River Basin, in France, to evaluate variations in trace element geochemistry. Average background trace element levels for the basin were determined from the collection and subsequent analyses of bed sediment samples from small rural watersheds and from a prehistoric (5000 BP) site in Paris. Concentrations are relatively low, and similar to those observed for fine‐grained bed sediments from unaffected areas in the United States and Canada. However, the concentrations are somewhat higher than the reference levels presently adopted by French water authorities for areas north of the Seine Basin, which have similar bedrock lithologies. Downstream trace element variations were monitored in 1994 and 1995 using fresh surficial floodplain samples that were collected either as dried deposits a few days after peak discharge, or immediately after peak discharge (under ≤30 cm of water). Chemical comparisons between fresh floodplain deposits, and actual suspended sediments collected during flood events, indicate that, with some caveats, the former can be used as surrogates for the latter. The floodplain sediment chemical data indicate that within the Seine Basin, from the relatively unaffected headwaters through heavily affected urban streams, trace element concentrations vary by as much as three orders of magnitude. These trace element changes appear to be the result of both increases in population as well as concomitant increases in industrial activity. (This article is a US government work and is in the public domain in the United States.)     

Interaction of waves,currents and tides,and wave-energy impact on the beach area of Sylt Island

Erosion due to waves is an important and actual problem for most coastal areas of the North Sea. The objective of this study was to estimate the impact of wave action on the coastline of Sylt Island. From a 2-year time series (November 1999 to October 2001) of hydrological and wave parameters generated with a coupled wave–current modelling system, a period comprising storm ‘Anatol’ (3–4 December 1999) is used to investigate the effects of waves on currents and water levels and the input of wave energy into the coastline. The wave-induced stress causes an increase of the current velocity of 1 m/s over sand and an additional drift along the coast of about 20 cm/s. This produces a water level increase of more than 20 cm in parts of the tidal basin. The model system also calculates the wave energy input into the coastline. Scenario runs for December 1999 with a water level increase of 50 cm and wind velocity increased by 10% show that the input of the wave energy into the west coast of Sylt Island increases by 30% compared to present conditions. With regard to the forecasted near-future (Woth et al., Ocean Dyn 56:3–15, 2006) increase of strong storm surges, the scenario results indicate an increased risk of coastal erosion in the surf zone of Sylt Island.     

Generation and evolution of internal solitary waves in the southern Taiwan Strait

ABSTRACT

The generation processes and potential energy sources of internal solitary waves (ISWs) in the southern Taiwan Strait are investigated by driving a high resolution non-hydrostatic numerical model with realistic background conditions. Two main types of ISWs are clarified according to their different energy sources. One is generated by the nonlinear disintegration of remote internal tides emanating from Luzon Strait, and the other type is generated by local tide-topography interaction at the continental slope. The basic properties and evolution processes differ between these two kinds of ISWs. The waves originated from the remote internal tides at Luzon Strait have amplitudes comparable to previous field observations. In contrast, the ISWs generated locally are much weaker than observed waves, even in the presence of a steady offshore background current, which intensifies the generation of onshore ISWs. The ISWs induced by remotely generated M₂ internal tides are stronger than those induced by K₁ internal tides, and the fraction of internal wave energy transmitted onto the shelf is not significantly influenced by the intensity of remotely generated internal tides.     

Effect of phosphatation and calcination on the environmental behaviour of sediments

Dredging operations produce considerable quantities of materials, to be managed and this opens an opportunity for valorization in civil engineering. However, the contamination of the dredged sediments has become a major problem to solve. The major contaminants are heavy metals and organic compounds. This study focuses on the use of phosphoric acid (H3PO4) to stabilize heavy metals from sediments and destroy organic matter by calcination at 650 °C with a goal of using sediments in roadworks. Several studies have been conducted in this eld. The stabilized materials obtained have been used in civil engineering. The main purpose of this work is to discuss the environmental behavior of marine sediment treated by phosphatation and calcination. Two types of phosphoric acids were used. The pH dependence leaching test has been used as the basic characterization to evaluate the effect of the type of phosphoric acid on the metals behavior in a valorization scenario. The standard leaching test and the Toxicity Characteristic Leaching Procedure (TCLP) were conducted as compliance tests. In regards of the obtained results, the environmental assessment has also shown a reduction in the availability of targeted heavy metals in alkaline environment whatever the type of acid used for treatment. This opens opportunities for co-valorization.     

Modelling the effects of changes in the Earth's magnetic field from 1957 to 1997 on the ionospheric hmF2 and foF2 parameters

We have modelled the effects of changes in the Earth's magnetic field on the ionosphere as have occurred from 1957 to 1997 using the NCAR Thermosphere–Ionosphere–Electrodynamics General Circulation Model. Previous studies that attempted to quantify these effects used a constant wind field, so that any electro-dynamical coupling processes could not be accounted for. Using TIE-GCM we can account for these processes. We find substantial changes in the F2 layer peak height hmF2 (up to ±20 km) and critical frequency foF2 (up to ±0.5 MHz) over the Atlantic Ocean and South America, purely due to changes in the Earth's magnetic field (i.e. unrelated to greenhouse gas cooling effects, which are often held responsible for long-term trends in hmf2 and fof2). These would make up a significant contribution to observed long-term trends in these areas and therefore must be taken into account in their interpretation. Modelled trends of hmF2 and foF2 exhibit a strong seasonal and diurnal variation, highlighting the importance of separating data with respect to season and local time. Most of the modelled changes in hmF2 and foF2 can be related to changes in plasma transport up or down magnetic field lines driven by neutral winds, changes, which are mostly caused by changes in the inclination of the field, though changes in declination and neutral wind also play a role. Changes in the vertical component of the E×B drift seem to have little effect on hmF2 and foF2.     

湖泊沉积物中微量金属二次迁移过程中微生物作用的实验研究

蓄积在湖泊沉积物中污染物质某些情况下可以成为威胁上覆水体水质安全的二次污染源．根据贵州省阿哈湖季节性缺氧的特性,通过控制氧化还原状况,设计了对该湖沉积物-水柱的原样／抑菌条件的培养实验．实验发现,微生物活动对界面附近氧化还原反应具有控制作用;改变水体的含氧状况可以显著影响上覆水体水质,包括表观性状和水体中污染物含量．聚类分析结果表明,早期成岩过程中Mn,Ga,SO4 2-,Cu,Cr,Pb和Co,Ni,Fe,Sc,V,Rb两大类分别具有相似的地球化学行为．根据实验结果,计算了厌氧培养过程中,微量元素的最大释放量,发现铁、锰在厌氧过程中可以大量向水体释放．