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1.
Numerical model experiments have been performed to analyze the low-latitude baroclinic continental shelf response to a tropical cyclone. The theory of coastally trapped waves suggests that, provided appropriate slope, latitude, stratification and wind stress, bottom-intensified topographic Rossby waves can be generated by the storm. Based on a scale analysis, the Nicaragua Shelf is chosen to study propagating topographic waves excited by a storm, and a model domain is configured with simplified but similar geometry. The model is forced with wind stress representative of a hurricane translating slowly over the region at 6 km h−1. Scale analysis leads to the assumption that baroclinic Kelvin wave modes have minimal effect on the low-frequency wave motions along the slope, and coastal-trapped waves are restricted to topographic Rossby waves. Analysis of the simulated motions suggests that the shallow part of the continental slope is under the influence of barotropic topographic wave motions and at the deeper part of the slope baroclinic topographic Rossby waves dominate the low-frequency motions. Numerical solutions are in a good agreement with theoretical scale analysis. Characteristics of the simulated baroclinic waves are calculated based on linear theory of bottom-intensified topographic Rossby waves. Simulated waves have periods ranging from 153 to 203 h. The length scale of the waves is from 59 to 87 km. Analysis of energy fluxes for a fixed volume on the slope reveals predominantly along-isobath energy propagation in the direction of the group velocity of a topographic Rossby wave. Another model experiment forced with a faster translating hurricane demonstrates that fast moving tropical cyclones do not excite energetic baroclinic topographic Rossby waves. Instead, robust inertial oscillations are identified over the slope.  相似文献   

2.
A numerical model (two horizontal dimensions, vertically integrated) is used to investigate the generation of long ocean waves, ranging from 20 min to almost 2 h, at Buenos Aires continental shelf. The domain includes the Río de la Plata estuary and the continental shelf together and extends from 33.5° to 40.5°S latitude, and from 51° to 63°W longitude. Sea-level oscillations are modeled by forcing with passage of atmospheric cold fronts and atmospheric gravity waves. Both forcing mechanisms, which have been present during high activity lapses of long ocean waves, are mathematically implemented. After several numerical simulations, it is concluded that the pressure and wind fields associated to cold fronts do not generate long ocean waves in the area, though they do produce disturbances with periods longer than the tidal ones. On the other hand, it is so concluded that atmospheric gravity waves are an effective mechanism to force long ocean waves. Results obtained show that generation of long ocean waves is highly sensitive depending on the propagation direction and the phase speed of the atmospheric gravity waves. The long ocean wave event detected during the large-amplitude gravity-wave event of 13 October 1985 is successfully simulated. Finally, all our results suggest that atmospheric gravity waves are a highly effective mechanism forcing for the generation of long ocean waves in Buenos Aires coastal waters.  相似文献   

3.
Tropical cyclones (termed hurricanes and typhoons in other regions), are extreme events associated with strong winds, torrential rain and storm surges (in coastal areas) and cause extensive damage as a result of strong winds and flooding (caused by either heavy rainfall or ocean storm surges) in the immediate area of impact. The eastern Indian Ocean, particularly in the northwest region of Australia, is impacted by up to 10 tropical cyclones during the cyclone season, although direct impact of cyclones along the west and southwest coastlines is rare. However, the sub-tidal frequency component of sea level records along the west and south coasts of Western Australia indicates lagged correspondence with the occurrence of tropical cyclones. It is demonstrated that the tropical cyclones generate a continental shelf wave which travels along the west and south coasts of Australia up to 3500 km with speeds of 450–500 km day−1 (5.2–5.8 ms−1) with maximum trough to crest wave height of 0.63 m, comparable with the mean daily tidal range in the region. The shelf wave is identified in the coastal sea level records, initially as a decrease in water level, 1–2 days after the passage of the cyclone and has a period of influence up to 10 days. Amplitude of the shelf wave was strongly affected by the path of the tropical cyclone, with cyclones travelling parallel to the west coast typically producing the most significant signal due to resonance and superposition with local forcing. Analysis of water levels from Port Hedland, Geraldton, Fremantle and Albany together with cyclone paths over a ten year period (1988–1998) indicated that the tropical cyclones paths may be classified into 6 different types based on the amplitude of the wave.  相似文献   

4.
Few studies of wave processes on shore platforms have addressed the hydrodynamic thresholds that control wave transformation and energy dissipation, especially under storm conditions. We present results of a field experiment conducted during a storm on a sub‐horizontal shore platform on the east coast of Auckland, New Zealand. Small (<0.5 m) locally generated waves typically occur at the field site, whereas during the experiment the offshore wave height reached 2.3 m. Our results illustrate the important control that platform morphology has on wave characteristics. At the seaward edge of the platform a scarp abruptly descends beneath low tide level. Wave height immediately seaward of the platform was controlled by the incident conditions, but near the cliff toe wave height on the platform was independent of incident conditions. Results show that a depth threshold at the seaward platform edge > 2.5 times the gravity wave height (0.05–0.33 Hz) is necessary for waves to propagate onto the platform without breaking. On the platform surface the wave height is a direct function of water depth, with limiting maximum wave height to water depth ratios of 0.55 and 0.78 at the centre of the platform and cliff toe, respectively. A relative ‘platform edge submergence’ (water depth/water height ratio) threshold of 1.1 is identified, below which infragravity (<0.05 Hz) wave energy dominates the platform energy spectra, and above which gravity waves are dominant. Infragravity wave height transformation across the platform is governed by the relative platform edge submergence. Finally, the paper describes the first observations of wave setup on a shore platform. During the peak of the storm, wave setup on the platform at low tide (0.21 m) is consistent with measurements from planar sandy beaches, but at higher tidal stages the ratio between incident wave height and maximum setup was lower than expected. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

5.
Although large-scale tidal and inertial motions dominate the kinetic energy and vertical current shear in shelf seas and ocean, short-scale internal waves at higher frequencies close to the local buoyancy frequency are of some interest for studying internal wave breaking and associated diapycnal mixing. Such waves near the upper limit of the inertio-gravity wave band are thought to have relatively short O (102–103 m) horizontal scales and to show mainly up- and downward motions, which contrasts with generally low aspect ratio large-scale ocean currents. Here, short-term vertical current (w) observations using moored acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) are presented from a shelf sea, above a continental slope and from the open ocean. The observed w, with amplitudes between 0.015 and 0.05 m s−1, all span a considerable part of the water column, which is not a small vertical scale O(water depth) or O (100–500 m, the maximum range of observations), with either 0 or π phase change. This implies that they actually represent internal waves of low vertical modes 1 or 2. Maximum amplitudes are found in layers of largest stratification, some in the main pycnocline bordering the frictional bottom boundary layer, suggesting a tidal source. These ‘pycnocline-w’ compose a regular train of (solitary) internal waves and linearly decrease to small values near surface and bottom.  相似文献   

6.
In this paper, a possible increase in wind wave heights in the south-eastern south American continental shelf between 32°S and 40°S is investigated. Both time series of in situ (1996–2006) and topex (1993–2001) annual mean significant wave heights gathered at the continental shelf and adjacent ocean present apparent positive trends. Even though these trends are not statistically different from zero, it must be taken into account that the available in situ and satellite data have a short span and, moreover, in situ data present several gaps. Several papers presented evidence about a possible change on the low atmospheric circulation in this region of the southern hemisphere. Consequently, a weak increase in wave height might be occurring, which would be hard to quantify due to the shortness and the insufficiency of the available observations. In order to study a possible trend in mean annual wind wave heights simulating waves nearshore (swan) model forced with ncep/ncar surface wind was implemented in a regional domain for the period 1971–2005. The annual root-mean-square heights of the simulated wave show significant trends at several locations of the inner continental shelf and the adjacent ocean. The most significant increase is observed between 1991–2000 and 1981–1990 decades. The largest difference (0.20 m, 9%) occurs around 34°S–48°W. The wave height increase is somewhat lower, 7%, in the continental shelf and in the río de la plata estuary. The annual mean energy density (spatially averaged) also presents a significant positive trend (0.036 m2/yr) and relatively high inter-annual variability. The possible link between this inter-annual variability and el niño–southern oscillation (enso) was investigated but no apparent relationship was found. A possible increase in the annual mean energy density of waves would be able to produce changes in the littoral processes and, consequently, in the erosion of the coast.  相似文献   

7.
The energy flux in internal waves generated at the Celtic Sea shelf break was estimated by (i) applying perturbation theory to a week-long dataset from a mooring at 200 m depth, and (ii) using a 2D non-hydrostatic circulation model over the shelf break. The dataset consisted of high resolution time-series of currents and vertical stratification together with two 25-h sets of vertical profiles of the dissipation of turbulent kinetic energy. The observations indicated an average energy flux of 139 W m−1, travelling along the shelf break towards the northwest. The average energy flux across the shelf break at the mooring was only 8 W m−1. However, the waves propagating onshelf transported up to 200 W m−1, but they were only present 51% of the time. A comparison between the divergence of the baroclinic energy flux and observed dissipation within the seasonal thermocline at the mooring showed that the dissipation was at least one order of magnitude larger. Results from a 2D model along a transect perpendicular to the shelf break showed a time-averaged onshelf energy flux of 153–425 W m−1, depending on the magnitude of the barotropic forcing. A divergence zone of the energy flux was found a few kilometre offshore of the location of the observations in the model results, and fluxes on the order of several kW m−1 were present in the deep waters further offshelf from the divergence zone. The modelled fluxes exhibited qualitative agreements with the phase and hourly onshelf magnitudes of the observed energy fluxes. Both the observations and the model results show an intermittent onshelf energy flux of 100–200 W m−1, but these waves could only propagate ∼20–30 km onshore before dissipating. This conclusion was supported by a 25-h dataset sampled some 180 km onto the shelf, where a weak wave energy flux was found going towards the shelf break. We therefore conclude that shelf break generated internal waves are unlikely to be the main source of energy for mixing on the inner part of the shelf.  相似文献   

8.
The generation of waves on a geostrophic shear flow by a travelling forcing pattern is considered. The model describes both atmospheric Rossby waves on a zonal shear flow and continental shelf waves on a boundary current. By means of the Laplace transform technique, the development of the solution in time is studied, starting from some initial instant when the forcing starts. The asymptotic form of the forced solution is shown to depend crucially upon whether the speed of the travelling forcing lies inside the range of the current or not. The possible application of the results to the Florida current is discussed.  相似文献   

9.
Airborne infrared imagery is shown to provide preliminary evidence of surface thermal expressions associated with internal waves that become unstable and break over the continental shelf. These expressions include a narrow wave front that is warmer than the ambient; a wide, spatially intermittent ‘wake’ that is colder than the ambient; and ∼O (10 m) diameter surface-renewal ‘boils’ that populate the wake. These thermal signatures might be useful in assessing the spatial distribution and structure of breaking internal waves.  相似文献   

10.
Hurricanes can produce extreme nearshore waves and surge, but permanent gauging stations are often much sparser than is desired. This paper describes the rationale behind and outline for rapidly installed temporary coastal gauges, and presents results during Hurricane Gustav (2008). Within 48 h prior to landfall, twenty self-recording pressure gauges were deployed in depths of 1.4–23 m over more than 700 km of coastline, using helicopters to cover the large distances. Results showed a complex picture that was strongly dependent on location. East of the Mississippi Delta, open coast waves were large, and surge reached 3.8 m NAVD88 in marshes. West of the delta but near landfall, waves and surge were generally smaller as the river levees blocked flow from East to West. West of landfall, both waves and surge were very small and the most prominent feature was a water level drawdown that reached 1.5 m. Wave spectra varied strongly depending both on location and time from landfall.  相似文献   

11.
Observations of semidiurnal internal tidal currents from three moorings deployed on the continental shelf off central Chile during summer and winter of 2005 are reported. The spectra of the baroclinic currents showed large peaks at the semidiurnal band with a dominant counterclockwise rotation, which was consistent with internal wave activity. The amplitude of the barotropic tidal currents varied according to the spring–neap cycle following the sea level fluctuations. In contrast, the amplitudes of the internal tide showed high spatial-temporal variability not directly related to the spring–neap modulation. Near the middle of the continental shelf and near the coast (San Vicente Bay) the variance of the semidiurnal baroclinic current is larger than the variance of its barotropic counterpart. The vertical structure of the baroclinic tidal current fluctuations was similar to the structure of the first baroclinic internal wave mode. In general, in the three study sites the variance of the baroclinic current was larger near the surface and bottom and tended to show a minimum value at mid depths. Kinetic energy related to semidiurnal internal waves was larger in winter when stratification of the water column was stronger. During summer, upwelling and the decrease of freshwater input from nearby rivers reduced the vertical density stratification. The amplitude of the semidiurnal internal tide showed a tendency to be enhanced with increasing stratification as observed in other upwelling areas. The continental shelf break and submarine canyons, which limit the continental shelf in the alongshore direction, represent near-critical slopes for the semidiurnal period and are suggested to be the main internal tide generation sites in the study region.  相似文献   

12.
This paper presents a combined analytical and numerical extension to recent theoretical work on trapped continental shelf waves over smoothly curved coastlines. The geometry considered consists of an annular region joining two semi-infinite straight sections and, even though the isobaths remain evenly spaced, trapped modes appear in the annular region due entirely to the longitudinal curvature of the shelf there. Expanding in alongshore modes and requiring that the error is orthogonal to the transverse modes gives a linear algebraic system of equations for the frequency of trapping. Solutions for barotropic, non-divergent shelf waves show that trapped modes always exist if the coastline curves to form a headland.  相似文献   

13.
A mathematical model was used to investigate the effect of glacially induced fluctuations in sea level on the evolution of wave‐cut shore platforms and erosional continental shelves during the Quaternary. The model used two deep‐water wave sets, which were used to calculate breaker height and depth, and the force of the waves at the waterline, according to the width and bottom roughness of the surf zone and the gradient of the submarine slope. The model also incorporated an erosional threshold related to the strength of the rocks, the number of hours each year in which the water level is at each intertidal elevation and the amount and persistence of the debris at the cliff foot. Most runs were made using a sea level model that consisted of 26 glacial cycles from 2 million to 0·9 million years ago, and nine, of approximately twice the amplitude and wavelength, in the last 0·9 million years. The model emphasized the dynamic association between the contemporary intertidal platform and the continental shelf. Both surfaces trend towards a state of static equilibrium under oscillating sea level conditions, when attenuated waves are unable to continue eroding the rock. If there has not been enough time to reduce the gradient of the shallower portions of the continental shelf, however, intertidal shore platforms can be in a temporary, though possibly long‐lasting, state of dynamic equilibrium. The model suggests that most platforms are, at least in part, inherited from one, or in many cases more, interglacial stages when sea level was similar to today's. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

14.
Ocean surface waves are the dominant temporally and spatially variable process influencing sea floor sediment resuspension along most continental shelves. Wave-induced sediment mobility on the continental shelf and upper continental slope off central California for different phases of El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) events was modeled using monthly statistics derived from more than 14 years of concurrent hourly oceanographic and meteorologic data as boundary input for the Delft SWAN wave model, gridded sea floor grain-size data from the usSEABED database, and regional bathymetry. Differences as small as 0.5 m in wave height, 1 s in wave period, and 10° in wave direction, in conjunction with the spatially heterogeneous unconsolidated sea-floor sedimentary cover, result in significant changes in the predicted mobility of continental shelf surficial sediment in the study area. El Niño events result in more frequent mobilization on the inner shelf in the summer and winter than during La Niña events and on the outer shelf and upper slope in the winter months, while La Niña events result in more frequent mobilization on the mid-shelf during spring and summer months than during El Niño events. The timing and patterns of seabed mobility are addressed in context of geologic and biologic processes. By understanding the spatial and temporal variability in the disturbance of the sea floor, scientists can better interpret sedimentary patterns and ecosystem structure, while providing managers and planners an understanding of natural impacts when considering the permitting of offshore activities that disturb the sea floor such as trawling, dredging, and the emplacement of sea-floor engineering structures.  相似文献   

15.
Conceptual models of circulation theorise that the dominant forces controlling estuarine circulation are freshwater discharge from the riverine section (landward), tidal forcing from the ocean boundary, and gravitational circulation resulting from along-estuary gradients in density. In micro-tidal estuaries, sub-tidal water level changes (classified as those with periods between 3 and 10 days) with amplitudes comparable to the spring tidal range can significantly influence the circulation and distribution of water properties. Field measurements obtained from the Swan River Estuary, a diurnal, micro-tidal estuary in south-western Australia, indicated that sub-tidal water level changes at the ocean boundary were predominantly from remotely forced continental shelf waves (CSWs). The sub-tidal water levels had maximum amplitudes of 0.8 m, were comparable to the maximum tidal range of 0.6 m, propagated into the estuary to its tidal limit, and modified water levels in the whole estuary over several days. These oscillations dominated the circulation and distribution of water properties in the estuary through changing the salt wedge location and increasing the bottom water salinity by 7 units over 3 days. The observed salt wedge excursion forced by CSW was up to 5 km, whereas the maximum tidal excursion was 1.2 km. The response of the residual currents and the salinity distribution lagged behind the water level changes by ∼24 h. It was proposed that the sub-tidal forcing at the ocean boundary, which changed the circulation, salinity, and dissolved oxygen in the upper estuary, was due to a combination of two processes: (1) a gravity current generated by a process similar to a lock exchange mechanism and (2) amplified along-estuary density gradients in the upper estuary, which enhanced the gravitational circulation in the estuary. The salt intrusions under the sub-tidal forcing caused the rapid movement of anoxic water upstream, with significant implications for water quality and estuarine health.  相似文献   

16.
TheLg wave consists of the superposition ofS waves supercritically reflected, and thus trapped, in the crust. This mode of propagation explains the strong amplitude of this phase and the large distance range in which it is observed. The numerical simulation leads to successful comparison between observed seismograms in stable continental areas and synthetics computed for simple standard crustal models. In regions with strong lateral variations, the influence of large-scale heterogeneities on theLg amplitude is not yet clearly established in terms of the geometrical characteristics of the crustal structure.The analysis of the decay of amplitude ofLg with epicentral distance allows the evaluation of the quality factor ofS waves in the crust. The results obtained show the same trends as codaQ: a clear correlation with the tectonic activity of the region considered, both for the value ofQ at 1 Hz and for its frequency dependence, suggesting that scattering plays a prominent part among the processes that cause the attenuation.The coda ofLg is made up of scatteredS waves. The study of the spatial attenuation of the coda indicated that a large part of the arrivals that compose the coda propagate asLg. The relative amplitude of the coda is larger at sites located on sediments because, in these conditions, a part ofLg energy can be converted locally into lower order surface modes.  相似文献   

17.
利用我们建立的三维分层线性理论计算模式和中尺度数值模式ARPS, 分别研究了三维分层流动过双山脉地形产生的三维线性和非线性山脉重力波和大气船舶的结构特征及其形成机制.线性理论计算结果表明三维三层流动过双山脉地形时,两个山脉各自强迫出一个发散模态的山脉背风波,在第二个山脉背风面,三维三层流动过双山脉地形可以强迫出两个发散模态的拦截背风波,大大加强了对大气环流的拖曳作用.非线性数值模拟结果表明,流动过山所产生的非线性山脉重力波和大气船舶完全不同于三维分层线性理论计算模式所产生的山脉重力波和大气船舶的结构和特征,由于分层流体之间的非线性相互作用,三维三层流动过双山脉地形时,可在第二个山脉背风面激发4个发散模态的拦截背风波. 三维三层流动过双山脉地形所强迫的山脉重力波和大气船舶,具有同三维三层流动过孤立山脉所产生的山脉重力波和大气船舶完全不同的结构和特征,三维流动过双山脉地形对两个山脉之间的距离表现出极大的敏感性.对于相距较远的两个山脉,流动过双山脉所强迫的山脉重力波表现为4个发散模态的拦截背风波,波动的能量相对于相距较近的两个山脉能传播到更高的高度.  相似文献   

18.
Recent research on the Mississippi margin indicates notable seasonal variation in seabed dynamics. During years with minimal tropical-system activity, sediments initially deposited from late spring to early fall are remobilized by wind-driven currents and wave energy during extra-tropical weather systems in the winter. This research reveals the profound significance of tropical cyclones on Louisiana Shelf sedimentation. The amount of material delivered to and advected across the shelf by recent tropical cyclones is considerably larger than that related to winter storm systems. In Fall 2004, the river-dominated shelf of Louisiana was impacted by three tropical systems in less than a month, including Hurricane Ivan. Ivan, with maximum sustained winds in excess of 74 m s−1 (144 knots) and a minimum measured central pressure of 910 mbar, was the eighth most intense Atlantic hurricane on record at the time. In order to assess the impact these tropical systems had on the continental margin west of the Mississippi delta, seabed samples were collected from box cores in October 2004 and analyzed for particle-reactive radionuclides 234Th, 7Be, and 210Pb. Radiochemical data and observations from X-radiographs indicate event-driven sediment deposits ranged from 4 to 30 cm on the shelf and 2–6 cm in the Mississippi Canyon. These deposits exhibit distinct radiochemical signatures and differ visually and texturally from the underlying sediment. The well-developed physical stratification and graded nature of the deposits observed in core X-radiographs suggests that the sediment could have been deposited from sediment-gravity flows. Inventories of 7Be and 7Be/234Thxs ratios reveal this series of cyclones transported considerably more material to the outer shelf and slope than periods of minimal tropical-system activity. When compared to seasonal depositional rates created by winter storms, tropical-cyclone-related event deposits on the middle and outer shelf are up to an order of magnitude greater in thickness. The number and thickness of these event deposits decrease with distance from the delta and suggest that only the most severe tropical systems are likely capable of redistributing significant quantities of sediment to more distal portions of the shelf and slope. These severe-event-driven deposits may account for as much as 75% of the sediment burial budget on decadal time scales within Mississippi Canyon. Higher than average tropical cyclone activity, predicted by the National Hurricane Center over the next decade, may be the major mechanism controlling sediment transport and deposition on the Mississippi River continental shelf and in Mississippi Canyon.  相似文献   

19.
Simulations of both currents and waves were performed throughout the year 2001 to assess the relative contribution of each to their overall erosive potential on the Gulf of Lions shelf. Statistical analysis of bottom shear stress (BSS) was compared to sediment grain-size distribution on the bottom. The hydrodynamic features of the bottom layer coincide with the distribution of surficial sediments, and three areas with different hydro-sedimentary characteristics were revealed. (i) The sandy inner shelf (<30 m) area is a high-energy-wave dominated area but may be subjected to intense current-induced BSS during on-shore winds along the coast and during continental winds mainly in the up-welling cells. (ii) The middle shelf (30–100 m) is a low-energy environment characterised by deposition of cohesive sediments, where the wave effect decreases with depth and current-induced BSS cannot reach the critical value for erosion of fine-grained sediments. (iii) The outer shelf, which has a higher bottom sand fraction than the middle shelf, may be affected by strong south-westward currents generated by on-shore winds, which can have an erosive effect on the fine-grained sediments.  相似文献   

20.
The 25 April 1992 Cape Mendocino earthquake generated a tsunami characterized by both coastal trapped edge wave and non-trapped tsunami modes that propagated north and south along the U.S. West Coast. Both observed and synthetic time series at Crescent City and North Spit are consistent with the zero-order edge wave mode solution for a semi-infinite sloping beach depth profile. Wave amplitudes at Crescent City were about twice that observed at North Spit, in spite of the fact that the source region was three times farther from Crescent City than North Spit. The largest observed amplitude was due to an edge wave which arrived almost three hours after the initial onset of the tsunami; since such waves are highly localized nearshore, this suggests that the enhanced responsiveness at Crescent City is at least partly due to local dynamic processes. Furthermore, the substantially delayed arrival of this wave, which was generated at the southern end of the Cascadia Subduction Zone, has significant implications for hazard mitigation efforts along the entire U.S. West Coast. Specifically, this study demonstrates that slow-moving but very energetic edge wave modes could be generated by future large tsunamigenic earthquakes in the CSZ, and that these might arrive unexpectedly at coastal communities several hours after the initial tsunami waves have subsided.  相似文献   

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