Relationships between multibeam backscatter,sediment grain size and Posidonia oceanica seagrass distribution

The use of data, including bathymetry, backscatter intensity and the angular response of backscatter intensity, collected using multibeam sonar (MBS) systems to recognise seabed types was evaluated in the inner shelf of central western Sardinia (western Mediterranean sea), a site characterised by a complex seabed including sandy and gravelly sediments, Posidonia oceanica seagrass beds growing on hardgrounds (i.e. biogenic carbonates) and sedimentary substrates.     

Post-glacial sediment dynamics in the Irish Sea and sediment wave morphology: Data–model comparisons

The irregular seafloor of the narrow Irish Sea on the NW European Shelf has been documented over several decades. From recently collected swath bathymetry data, very large trochoidal, nearly symmetrical sediment waves are observed in many parts of the Irish Sea and appear similar to those described from other continental shelf seas in North America that were covered by glacigenic sediments during the Last Glacial Maximum. Swath multibeam and single beam bathymetry data, backscatter intensity, shallow seismic imagery, video footage and sediment cores from the Irish Sea high sediment waves have been integrated to identify their genesis with reference to present and past hydrodynamic variability. From cross-sectional profiles over asymmetrical sediment waves in the Irish Sea the direction of asymmetry is used to map residual bed stress directions and associated bedload transport paths. Irish Sea peak bed stress vectors were generated using a two-dimensional palaeo-tidal model for the NW European shelf seas and compare well with the observations. Tidally induced bed stresses are modelled to have increased between 7–10 ka BP, to be nearly symmetrical in magnitude and to have reversed in dominant direction on a millennial scale. These environmental conditions during the post-glacial marine transgression are suggested here to help comprehend the construction of the very large sediment waves, with local variations due to differences in sediment grain size, sediment supply, water depth and intensified currents due to seafloor slopes. Model parameterisation using an open ocean boundary with time-dependent tidal changes and the implementation of high-resolution bathymetric information will improve future models of small-scale bed shear stress patterns and improve the predictive value of such modelling efforts.     

Modelling distribution of marine benthos from hydroacoustics and underwater video

Broad-scale mapping of marine benthos is required for marine resource management and conservation. This study combines textural derivatives based on bathymetry from multibeam hydroacoustics with underwater video observations to model and map sessile biota between 10- and 60-m water depth over 35 km² in Point Addis Marine National Park (MNP), Vic., Australia. Classification tree models and maps were developed for macroalgae (all types, mixed red algae, Ecklonia, and rhodoliths) and sessile invertebrates (all types, sponges, and ascidians). Model accuracy was tested on 25% of the video observation dataset reserved from modelling. Models fit well for most macroalgae categories (correct classification rates of 67–84%), but are not as good for sessile invertebrate classes (correct classification rates of 57–62%). The poor fit of the sessile invertebrate models may be the combined result of grouping organisms with different environmental requirements and the effect of false absences recorded during video interpretation due to poor image quality. Probability maps, binary single-class maps, and multi-class maps supply spatially explicit, detailed information on the distribution of sessile benthic biota within the MNP and provide information at a landscape-scale for ecological investigations and marine management.     

Acoustic seabed segmentation from direct statistical clustering of entire multibeam sonar backscatter curves

A fast, simple method is presented to obtain acoustic seabed segmentation from multibeam sonar backscatter data, for situations where processed backscatter curves are already available. Unsupervised statistical clustering is used to classify multibeam sonar backscatter curves in their entirety, with the curves essentially treated as geometrical entities. High variability in the backscatter curves is removed by along-track averaging prior to clustering, and no further preprocessing is required. The statistical clustering method is demonstrated with RESON 8125 multibeam sonar data obtained in two bathymetrically complex environments. These are a sandwave field in Keppel Bay, Queensland, and an area of inter-island sand, reef, seagrass, and rhodolith beds in Esperance Bay, Western Australia. The resulting acoustic charts are visually compelling. They exhibit high spatial coherence, are largely artifact free, and provide spatial context to comparatively sparse grab samples with relatively little effort. Since the backscatter curve is an intrinsic property of the seafloor, the mappings form standalone charts of seafloor acoustic properties. In themselves they do not need ground truthing. Conceptually, use of the full angular backscatter curve should form the primary means of obtaining acoustic seabed segmentation. However, this is dependent on the scale and configuration of seabed backscatter features compared to the dimensions of the averaged swathe used to obtain reliable realisations of the backscatter curve.     

Long-term development and current status of the Barcelona continental shelf: A source-to-sink approach

The Barcelona continental shelf, off the city of Barcelona (NE Spain), is a relatively narrow canyon-bounded shelf in the northwestern Mediterranean Sea. Three medium-size rivers (Tordera, Besós and Llobregat) and several ephemeral rivulets flow into this margin. Two main domains have been recognized in the Barcelona shelf: (i) a modern, river-influenced area, and (ii) a relict, sediment depleted area, both affected by a variety of human impacts. A detailed geomorphologic study based on multibeam bathymetry and backscatter data, high resolution seismic profiles, and surface sediment samples allowed mapping and interpreting the main distinctive seafloor features on the Barcelona shelf. Modern sedimentary features reveal that the Llobregat River is the main sediment source of the Barcelona prodeltaic shelf. High-discharge fluvial events result in the formation of suspended sediment plumes and sediment waves on the shelf floor. Relict (late Pleistocene–Holocene) sedimentary features reflect that an important shift occurred in the seashore direction between MIS 4 and MIS 2, and that recent neotectonic reactivation has created a set of seafloor faults. The Barcelona inner and middle shelf is severely impacted by anthropogenic activities such as the enlargement works of the Port of Barcelona, sewage pipes, dredging, anchoring and trawling.     

The influence of nearshore sand bank dynamics on shoreline evolution in a macrotidal coastal environment,Calais, northern France

Analyses of shoreline and bathymetry change near Calais, northern coast of France, showed that shoreline evolution during the 20th century was strongly related with shoreface and nearshore bathymetry variations. Coastal erosion generally corresponds to areas of nearshore seabed lowering while shoreline progradation is essentially associated with areas of seafloor aggradation, notably east of Calais where an extensive sand flat experienced seaward shoreline displacement up to more than 300 m between 1949 and 2000. Mapping of bathymetry changes since 1911 revealed that significant variation in nearshore morphology was caused by the onshore and alongshore migration of a prominent tidal sand bank that eventually welded to the shore. Comparison of bathymetry data showed that the volume of the bank increased by about 10×10⁷ m³ during the 20th century, indicating that the bank was acting as a sediment sink for some of the sand transiting alongshore in the coastal zone. Several lines of evidence show that the bank also represented a major sediment source for the prograding tidal flat, supplying significant amounts of sand to the accreting upper beach. Simulation of wave propagation using the SWAN wave model (Booij et al., 1999) suggests that the onshore movement of the sand bank resulted in a decrease of wave energy in the nearshore zone, leading to more dissipative conditions. Such conditions would have increased nearshore sediment supply, favoring aeolian dune development on the upper beach and shoreline progradation. Our results suggest that the onshore migration of nearshore sand banks may represent one of the most important, and possibly the primary mechanism responsible for supplying marine sand to beaches and coastal dunes in this macrotidal coastal environment.     

Bed diversity in the shallow water environment of Pappas lagoon in Greece

<正>Acoustic classification systems and the Sediment Trend Analysis method were used to identify and map the bed diversity in a very shallow(3.0m),coastal lagoon,Pappas lagoon,Western Greece. Analogue acoustic data,collected by means of a 100 kHz side scan sonar system,were digitized and classified into six acoustic classes using recently developed acoustic classification systems (SonarClass,TargAn).By comparing the acoustic classes to ground truth data consisting of sediment grain size and visual inspection of the lagoon-bed,it is demonstrated that the six acoustic classes correlate well with the predominant surface sediment types and vegetation.Thus the spatial distribution of the classes can be considered to represent the spatial pattern of the sedimentary assemblages of the lagoon.The grain size trend analysis identified three dominant sediment pathways and directional trends which could be related to the predominant wind direction,the sediment influx through the inlets and the sediment supply from a small stream in the southern part of the lagoon.The integration of acoustic and sedimentological data together with advanced data processing systems leads to a better understanding of the sedimentary,morphological and biological processes in a shallow lagoon in different spatial and temporal scales and will therefore be beneficial to both sedimentological and biotic-diversity studies.     

A bottom-up methodology for integrating underwater video and acoustic mapping for seafloor substrate classification

A method that links acoustic mapping data to underwater video observations of seafloor substrate is described for use in defining fish habitat. Three study areas in the Aleutian Islands were acoustically mapped using sidescan and multibeam sonar. The sidescan sonar data were used to compute average reflectivity (hardness) and seafloor complexity. The multibeam depth data were used to determine local slope, rugosity (seafloor roughness) and relative height. Underwater video was collected from three to four transects in each of the three study areas. The underwater video was used to classify the seafloor into nine observed primary and secondary substrate classes. A statistical relationship between the observed (video) and the remotely sensed (acoustic) seafloor characteristics was estimated using a classification tree. The best classification tree utilized rugosity, reflectivity and complexity data and produced misclassification rates of less than 25% overall. Mean grain size of sediment samples was not strongly related to the acoustic data. Error rates were highest for those substrate classes with the smallest number of data points. The results highlight the need for adequate sample sizes and coverage of all potential substrate types when groundtruthing acoustic maps.     

Multi-beam backscatter measurements used to infer seabed habitats

Backscatter from multi-beam sonar (MBS) was used to discriminate ecologically relevant seabed characteristics based on 62 reference sites sampled with georeferenced video, sediment grab and rock dredge between 50 and 500 m water depth. A simple biotope characteristic of soft (unconsolidated) and hard (consolidated) was used to compare the acoustic backscatter data with the data on mega-epifauna and substrate type obtained from video and physical sampling. Substrate type of homogeneous reference sites was predicted by matching the backscatter incidence angle profile (0–70°) to that of a seabed scattering model. Referencing the seabed backscatter to a consistent incidence angle (40°) gave a metric with high spatial resolution (2.4–20 m), which minimised errors of range, incident angle and beam compensation. This simple metric provided a consistent approach to analyse and interpret the data and was strongly correlated with substrate type and faunal functional groups. The high resolution backscatter metric was a closer match to the small spatial scale of seabed patch lengths observed by video (50% <50 m).     

Sediment dispersal and deposition due to sand mining in the coastal waters of Korea

Understanding the impact of marine sand mining operations in a complex coastal environment requires a combined observational and modeling approach. Here, we use field measurements collected during mining operations in Kyunggi Bay, Korea to develop sediment parameters and source conditions for a three-dimensional (3D) sediment transport model built on the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS). The model is run with realistic forcing obtained from a 9 km meteorological model, tides, and river discharges. The resulting vertical and horizontal distributions of sediment show encouraging agreement with the field data, demonstrating markedly different dispersal patterns due largely to the differential settling of the various sand classes. The resulting depositional patterns suggest that only the coarser size classes (500 and 250 μm) particles remain close to the mined site, while finer size classes are widely dispersed. These results suggest that this new methodology of multi-size class, 3D sediment transport modeling is quite promising, and further work is ongoing to include more realistic representation of sediment resuspension processes.     

Integrative assessment of coastal pollution: Development and evaluation of sediment quality criteria from chemical contamination and ecotoxicological data

Elutriate embryo-larval bioassays with sea-urchins (Paracentrotus lividus) were conducted concurrently with chemical analyses of sediments and biota as part of an integrative assessment of pollution in highly productive coastal regions. High metal contents and organic compounds in sediments and mussels were found in localised areas from the inner part of the estuaries indicating a clear anthropogenic influence. In particular, average maximum concentrations of 2803 mg Cu/kg dw, 776 mg Pb/kg dw, 2.5 mg Hg/kg dw and 5803 μg ∑₇PAHs/kg dw were measured in sediments from the most polluted sites. Significant correlations were observed between sediment chemistry and toxicity bioassays. Moreover, the Mantel test revealed a significant correlation (r_M=0.80; p<0.01) between sediment pollutant concentrations and toxicity data profiles. In addition, sediment quality criteria were used to help in the ecological interpretation of sediment chemistry data and to identify pollutants of concern. The toxicity bioassays identified polluted sites and quantified the level of toxicity, providing a cost-effective tool to complement the routine chemical monitoring currently conducted in European coastal waters with ecologically relevant information. This is in line with the recent European legislation that advocates the use of biological tools with the ultimate aim of protecting marine resources from anthropogenic substances that will affect their sensitive early life stages.     

Sediment delivery,resuspension, and transport in two contrasting canyon environments in the southwest Gulf of Lions

Multiple canyons incise the continental slope at the seaward edge of the continental shelf in the Gulf of Lions and are actively involved in the transfer of sediment from shelf to deep sea. Two canyons in the southwest region of the Gulf of Lions, Lacaze-Duthiers Canyon and Cap de Creus Canyon, were instrumented with bottom-boundary-layer tripods in their heads to evaluate the processes involved in sediment delivery, resuspension and transport. In both canyons, intense cold, dense-water flows carry sediment across the slope. In the Lacaze-Duthiers canyon head (located ∼35 km from the shoreline), dense-water cascading into the canyon was episodic. Currents were highly variable in the canyon head, and responded to interactions between the along-slope Northern Current and the sharp walls of the canyon. Inertial and other high-frequency fluctuations were associated with suspended-sediment concentrations of ∼5 mg/l. In Cap de Creus canyon head (located ∼14 km from the shoreline), downslope currents were higher in magnitude and more persistent than in Lacaze-Duthiers canyon head. Greater suspended-sediment concentrations (peaks up to 20 mg/l) were observed in Cap de Creus Canyon due to resuspension of the canyon seabed during dense-water cascading events. The similarities and contrasts between processes in these two canyon heads emphasize the importance of the interaction of currents with sharp canyon bathymetry. The data also suggest that cold, dense-water flows have more potential to carry sediment to the slope on narrow shelves, and may more efficiently transfer that sediment to the deep sea where a smooth transition between shelf and slope exists.     

Effect of cross‐section interpolated bathymetry on 2D hydrodynamic model results in a large river

Two‐dimensional (2D) hydrodynamic models have been increasingly used to quantify aquatic habitat and stream processes, such as sediment transport, streambed morphological evolution, and inundation extents. Because river topography has a strong influence on predicted hydraulic conditions, 2D models require accurate and detailed bathymetric data of the stream channel and surrounding floodplains. Besides collection of mass points to construct high‐resolution three‐dimensional surfaces, bathymetries may be interpolated from cross‐sections. However, limited information is available on the effects of cross‐section spacing and the derived interpolated bathymetry on 2D model results in large river systems. Here, we investigated the effects of cross‐section spacing on flow properties simulated with 2D modeling at low, medium and high discharges in two morphologically different reaches, a simple (almost featureless with low sinuosity) and a complex (presenting pools, riffles, runs, contractions and expansions) reach of the Snake River (Idaho, USA), the tenth largest river in the United States in terms of drainage area. We compared the results from 2D models developed with complete channel bathymetry acquired with multibeam sonar data and photogrammetry, with 2D model results that were developed using interpolated topography from uniformly distributed transects. Results indicate that cross‐sections spaced equal to or greater than 2 times the average channel width (W*) smooths the bathymetry and suppresses flow structures. Conversely, models generated with cross‐sections spaced at 0.5 and 1 W* have stream flow properties, sediment mobility and spatial habitat distribution similar to those of the complete bathymetry. Furthermore, differences in flow properties between interpolated and complete topography models generally increase with discharge and with channel complexity. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A field study of coastal dynamics on a muddy coast offshore of Cassino beach,Brazil

Mud deposits near sandy beaches, found throughout the world, are of scientific and societal interest as they form important natural sea defenses by efficiently damping storm waves. A multi-national field experiment to study these phenomena was performed offshore Cassino beach in southern Brazil starting in 2004. This experiment aimed to investigate the formation of an offshore mud deposit, to characterize wave attenuation over potentially mobile muddy bottoms, and to evaluate the performance of models for wave transformation over heterogeneous beds through the measurement of water waves, near-bottom currents, bathymetry, and changes in bottom sediment characteristics. The main instrumentation was a set of wave sensors deployed in a transect from the shoreline across sandy and muddy deposits offshore to a depth of 25 m. Additional sensors, including current meters and optical backscatter sensors, were concentrated at stations in the middle of the mud deposit and in the surf zone to document aspects of the wave boundary layer and lutocline dynamics. This fieldwork also involved the geological and geotechnical characterization of the mud deposit using seismic equipment, echo-sounders, cores, surficial sampling and an in-situ density meter. These sediment samples were subsequently analyzed for density, grain size distribution, mineralogy, rheology and sedimentary structures. In addition, video and radar monitoring equipment were installed to measure the long-term aspects of surf zone damping by fluid mud and any associated morphodynamic responses. This paper provides a summary of environmental conditions monitored during the experiment and describes the major findings of the various investigations. Although data collection was more difficult than anticipated and dramatic wave attenuation involving the onshore transport of fluid mud into the surf zone region was not observed during the instrumented interval, the new methodologies developed and comprehensive observations obtained during this effort are being used to improve our understanding of shoaling wave dynamics and sediment transport in the coastal zone in regions with significant cohesive sediment deposits.     

The sediment composition and predictive mapping of facies on the Propeller Mound—A cold-water coral mound (Porcupine Seabight,NE Atlantic)

Here we provide a detailed qualitative and quantitative insight on recent sediment composition and facies distribution of a cold-water coral (CWC) mound using the example of the Propeller Mound on the Irish continental margin (Hovland Mound Province, Porcupine Seabight). Five facies types on Propeller Mound are defined: (1) living coral framework, (2) coral rubble, (3) dropstone, (4) hardground, representing the on-mound facies, and (5) hemipelagic sediment facies, which describes the off-mound area. This facies definition is based on already published video-data recorded by Remotely Operated Vehicle (ROV), photo-data of gravity cores, box cores, and dredges from sediment surfaces as well as on the composition of the sediment fraction coarser than 125 μm, which has been analyzed on five selected box cores. Sediment compositions of the living coral framework and coral rubble facies are rather similar. Both sediment types are mainly produced by corals (34 and 35 wt%, respectively), planktonic foraminifers (22 and 29 wt%, respectively), benthic foraminifers (both 7 wt%), and molluscs (21 and 10 wt%, respectively), whereas the living coral framework characteristically features additional brachiopods (6 wt%). Hardgrounds are well-lithified coral rudstones rich in coral fragments (>30 surf%), foraminifers, echinoderms, and bivalves. The dropstone facies and the hemipelagic sediment typically carry high amounts of lithoclasts (36 and 53 wt%, respectively) and planktonic foraminifers (35 and 32 wt%, respectively); however, their faunal diversity is low compared with the coral-dominated facies (12 and <2 wt% coral fragments, 7 and 6 wt% benthic foraminifers, and 4 and 0 wt% balanids). Using the maximum likelihood algorithm within ArcGIS 9.2, spatial prediction maps of the previously described mound facies are calculated over Propeller Mound and are based on mound morphology parameters, ground-truthed with the sedimentary and faunal information from box cores, photographs, and video-data. This method is tested for the first time for CWC ecosystems and provides areal estimates of the predicted facies, as well as suggests further occurrences of living coral frameworks, coral rubble, and dropstones, which are not discovered in the area yet. Thus, sediment composition analysis combined with facies prediction mapping might provide a potential new tool to estimate living CWC occurrences and sediment/facies distributions on CWC mounds, which is an important prerequisite for budget calculations and definition of marine protected areas, and which will improve our understanding of CWC mound formation.     

Synergy and fusion of optical and synthetic aperture radar satellite data for underwater topography estimation in coastal areas

A method to obtain underwater topography for coastal areas using state-of-the-art remote sensing data and techniques worldwide is presented. The data from the new Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) satellite TerraSAR-X with high resolution up to 1 m are used to render the ocean waves. As bathymetry is reflected by long swell wave refraction governed by underwater structures in shallow areas, it can be derived using the dispersion relation from observed swell properties. To complete the bathymetric maps, optical satellite data of the QuickBird satellite are fused to map extreme shallow waters, e.g., in near-coast areas. The algorithms for bathymetry estimation from optical and SAR data are combined and integrated in order to cover different depth domains. Both techniques make use of different physical phenomena and mathematical treatment. The optical methods based on sunlight reflection analysis provide depths in shallow water up to 20 m in preferably calm weather conditions. The depth estimation from SAR is based on the observation of long waves and covers the areas between about 70- and 10-m water depths depending on sea state and acquisition quality. The depths in the range of 20 m up to 10 m represent the domain where the synergy of data from both sources arises. Thus, the results derived from SAR and optical sensors complement each other. In this study, a bathymetry map near Rottnest Island, Australia, is derived. QuickBird satellite optical data and radar data from TerraSAR-X have been used. The depths estimated are aligned on two different grids. The first one is a uniform rectangular mesh with a horizontal resolution of 150 m, which corresponds to an average swell wavelength observed in the 10 × 10-km SAR image acquired. The second mesh has a resolution of 150 m for depths up to 20 m (deeper domain covered by SAR-based technique) and 2.4 m resolution for the shallow domain imaged by an optical sensor. This new technique provides a platform for mapping of coastal bathymetry over a broad area on a scale that is relevant to marine planners, managers, and offshore industry.     

基于合成孔径声学深拖调查的海底浅表层流体活动研究——以SAMS DT6000深拖在琼东南海域调查为例

声学深拖作为一个声学设备搭载平台,主要功能是获取高分辨率的声学数据,精细刻画海底地形地貌特征以及浅层剖面结构,对于研究海底浅表层流体活动系统的类型、形成机制和演化模式有着重要作用.本文介绍的合成孔径声学深拖（Synthetic Aperture Sonar Deep-tow）搭载了合成孔径声呐、浅地层剖面仪以及多波束系统等声学设备,相比于传统的侧扫声呐,合成孔径声呐采用小物理孔径基阵通过信号处理虚拟合成大孔径基阵来获得方位向高分辨率,大大提高了测绘速率,同时结合高分辨率的浅地层剖面和多波束背散射数据,可实现海底浅表层特征的三维立体显示.为查明调查区海底浅层流体活动的声学特征,分析天然气水合物相关的流体渗漏活动性与浅层构造之间的关系,我们利用声学深拖对研究区进行了全覆盖的扫测,获得了高分辨率的合成孔径声呐图像、浅地层剖面资料以及多波束背散射数据,平面上识别出多个呈条带状的海底丘状体,火焰状的流体渗漏,新月形的麻坑构造等流体活动地质构造;浅层剖面上可见气体聚集的声学空白段落,凸起的活跃喷口,以及反射杂乱的柱状浑浊带.通过识别流体活动的特征,我们总结了浅层流体活动演化模式具有周期性：游离气体通过高渗透运移通道上升至海底,首先扩散聚集造成局部沉积物体积膨胀形成丘状体;然后受其各种外界因素影响丘状体崩塌而引起气体渗漏;最后流体逸散剥蚀海底松散沉积物而形成麻坑构造;随着流体排出,喷口重新闭合,流体在地层中再次聚集,聚集的气体又将沉积地层上拱,在麻坑底部又可能生成含气丘状体.海底浅表层蕴藏着丰富的地质信息,这对于研究海底复杂的流体活动有着重要意义.     

Imaging the Seismic Crustal Structure of the Western Mexican Margin between 19°N and 21°N

Three thousand kilometres of multichannel (MCS) and wide-angle seismic profiles, gravity and magnetic, multibeam bathymetry and backscatter data were recorded in the offshore area of the west coast of Mexico and the Gulf of California during the spring 1996 (CORTES survey). The seismic images obtained off Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, in the Jalisco subduction zone extend from the oceanic domain up to the continental shelf, and significantly improve the knowledge of the internal crustal structure of the subduction zone between the Rivera and North American (NA) Plates. Analyzing the crustal images, we differentiate: (1) An oceanic domain with an important variation in sediment thickness ranging from 2.5 to 1 km southwards; (2) an accretionary prism comprised of highly deformed sediments, extending for a maximum width of 15 km; (3) a deformed forearc basin domain which is 25 km wide in the northern section, and is not seen towards the south where the continental slope connects directly with the accretionary prism and trench, thus suggesting a different deformational process; and (4) a continental domain consisting of a continental slope and a mid slope terrace, with a bottom simulating reflector (BSR) identified in the first second of the MCS profiles. The existence of a developed accretionary prism suggests a subduction–accretion type tectonic regime. Detailed analysis of the seismic reflection data in the oceanic domain reveals high amplitude reflections at around 6 s [two way travel time (twtt)] that clearly define the subduction plane. At 2 s (twtt) depth we identify a strong reflection which we interpret as the Moho discontinuity. We have measured a mean dip angle of 7° ± 1° at the subduction zone where the Rivera Plate begins to subduct, with the dip angle gently increasing towards the south. The oceanic crust has a mean crustal thickness of 6.0–6.5 km. We also find evidence indicating that the Rivera Plate possibly subducts at very low angles beneath the Tres Marias Islands.     

Using ADV backscatter strength for measuring suspended cohesive sediment concentration

Laboratory experiments were conducted at two institutes to reveal the relationship between acoustic backscatter strength and suspended sediment concentration (SSC). In total, three acoustic Doppler velocimeters (ADVs) with different frequencies (5, 10 and 16 MHz) were tested. Two different commercial clays and one natural sediment from Clay Bank site in the York River were checked for acoustic responses. The SSCs of selected sediments were artificially changed between a selected low and a high value in tap or de-ion water. Each ADV showed quite different backscatter responses depending on the sediment type and SSC. Not all devices had a good linear relationship between backscatter strength and SSC. Within a limited range of SSC, however, the backscatter strength can be well correlated with the SSC. Compared with optical backscattering sensor (OBS), the fluctuation of ADV backscatter signals was too noisy to be directly converted to the instantaneous changes of SSC due to high amplification ratio and small sampling volume. For the more accurate signal conversion for finding the fluctuation of SSC, the ensemble average should be applied to increase the signal-to-noise ratio. There are unexpected responses for the averaged backscatter wave strength: (1) high signals from small particles but low signals from large particles; and (2) two linear segments in calibration slope. These phenomena would be most likely caused by the different gain setting built in ADVs. The different acoustic responses to flocculation might also contribute somewhat if flocs are tightly packed. This study suggests that an ADV could be a useful instrument to estimate suspended cohesive sediment concentration and its fluctuation if the above concerns are clarified.     

Rapid formation of hyperpycnal sediment gravity currents offshore of a semi-arid California river

Observations of sediment dispersal from the Santa Clara River of southern California during two moderately sized river discharge events suggest that river sediment rapidly formed a negatively buoyant (hyperpycnal) bottom plume along the seabed within hours of peak discharge. An array of acoustic and optical sensors were placed at three stations 1 km from the Santa Clara River mouth in 10-m water depth during January–February 2004. These combined observations suggest that fluid mud concentrations of suspended sediment (>10 g/l) and across-shore gravity currents (∼5 cm/s) were observed in the lower 20–40 cm of the water column 4–6 h after discharge events. Gravity currents were wave dominated, rather than auto-suspending, and appeared to consist of silt-to-clay sized sediment from the river. Sediment mass balances suggest that 25–50% of the discharged river sediment was transported by these hyperpycnal currents. Sediment settling purely by flocs (∼1 mm/s) cannot explain the formation of the observed hyperpycnal plumes, therefore we suggest that some enhanced sediment settling from mixing, convective instabilities, or diverging plumes occurred that would explain the formation of the gravity currents. These combined results provide field evidence that high suspended-sediment concentrations from rivers (>1 g/l) may rapidly form hyperpycnal sediment gravity currents immediately offshore of river mouths, and these pathways can explain a significant portion of the river-margin sediment budget. The fate of this sediment will be strongly influenced by bathymetry, whereas the fate of the remaining sediment will be much more influenced by ocean currents.