Evolution of the barrier islands of southern Long Island, New York

Three lines of evidence based on data from more than 400 boreholes and vibrocores have been used to reconstruct the evolution of the barrier islands during the Holocene transgression in southern Long Island, New York: (1) the Holocene transgressive stratigraphic sequence behind the present barriers, (2) the stratigraphic patterns of the inner shelf, and (3) the morphology of the now-buried late Pleistocene coastal features. The extensive preservation of backbarrier sediments, radiocarbon dated between 7000 and 8000 yr BP, on the inner shelf of southern Long Island suggests that the barriers have not retreated by continuous shoreface erosion alone, but have also undergone discontinuous retreat by in-place ‘drowning’ of barriers and stepwise retreat of the surf zone. Such stepwise retreat of the surf zone has prevented the backbarrier sediments from being reworked. Based on the presence of submerged barrier sand bodies in seismic records, it is inferred that about 9000 years ago, when the sea stood about 24 m below the present sea level, a chain of barriers developed on the present shelf about 7 km offshore of the present barriers. With continued sea-level rise, the – 24 m barrier built upward until the sea reached about – 15 m MSL, just prior to 7000 yr BP. The barriers were then submerged by the rapidly rising sea, and the surf zone shifted rapidly landward to a position about 2 km from the present shoreline. The surf zone overstepped to the landward margin of the old lagoon, which had become fixed at the steep seaward face of mid-Wisconsinan (?) or Sangamonian coastal barriers. During the past 5000 or 6000 years, the shoreface has retreated continuously by about 2 km. Evidence from southern Long Island and elsewhere in regions of coastal submergence indicates that rapid sea-level rise and low sand supply seem to favour the stepwise retreat of barriers, whereas slow rates of submergence and a greater supply of sand generally favour continuous shoreface retreat. Stationary upbuilding, or seaward progradation of barriers may occur when supply of sand is great, and/or submergence is slowed or reversed. Morphologic highs on the pretransgression surface (such as old barrier ridges) tend to fix the migrating barrier shoreline during either continuous retreat, or stepwise retreat of barriers.     

Fair weather and storm sand transport on the Long Island, New York, inner shelf

Both spring-summer and fall-winter sand transport have been observed on the Long Island, New York, inner shelf at water depths of 20-22 m using a radio-isotope sand tracer system. The extent of dispersal of the tagged, fine sand was measured at 3 week intervals in two 70 day experiments. In the late spring and early summer, movement was primarily diffusive in nature, extending 100 m around the line of tracer injection, while late fall-winter patterns had strong advective features, including an ellipsoidal outline extending approximately 1500 m westward of the injection points after the passage of several storms with strong northeasterly winds. Near-bottom current observations made with Savonius rotor sensors identify the event responsible for the bulk of the transport over the 135 day observation period as a storm flow of 2 days duration. Tracer and current observations together suggest that westward winter storm flow along the Long Island shelf is the major mechanism of sand transport at these depths on a yearly time scale. A least-squares fit of several of the observed winter patterns with a plume model yields average sediment mass flux lower bounds of 3.2 × 10^?3 gm/cm/sec and 1.7 × 10^?1 gm/cm/sec for ‘typical’ and extreme winter storm activity.     

Land subsidence due to groundwater withdrawal: potential damage of subsidence and sea level rise in southern New Jersey, USA

 Land subsidence due to groundwater withdrawal combined with a global sea level rise creates a serious environmental problem in the coastal region. Groundwater withdrawal results in fluid pressure change in the layers. The pressure change in the layers induces both elastic and inelastic land compaction. The elastic compaction can be recovered if the water level rises again and inelastic compaction becomes permanent. Groundwater response to barometric pressure change is used to estimate the elastic compaction in this study. The storativity, specific storage and other layer and hydrological information are used to estimate the inelastic compaction of the layers due to fluid withdrawal. The discussed methods are applied to estimate and predict the subsidence potentials resulting from overdrafting of the groundwater in the southern New Jersey. The estimated subsidence is about 2–3 cm near the location of monitoring wells in Atlantic, Camden, Cumberland and Cape May Counties over the past 20 years. If the current trend of water-level drop continues, the average subsidence in southern New Jersey in the vicinity of some monitoring wells will be about 3 cm in the next 20 years. The rise of global sea level is about 2 mm/year on average. Because of the very gentle slope in southern NJ, the combination of subsidence and sea level rise will translate into a potentially substantial amount of land loss in the coastal region in each 20 year period. This combination will also accelerate the coastal flooding frequency and the erosion rate of the New Jersey coastal plain, and pose a serious threat to the coastal economy. Received: 15 December 1997 · Accepted: 30 June 1998     

Impacts of sea level rise on future storm-induced coastal inundations over massachusetts coast

Natural Hazards - Hurricanes (tropical cyclones) and nor'easters (extratropical cyclones) are two major storm systems for flood risk over the Massachusetts coast. Severe coastal inundation...     

Mortality during Hurricane Sandy: the effects of waterfront flood protection on Staten Island,New York

Natural Hazards - Hard defenses, such as levees or land berms, are often considered the most effective approach to reduce flood risk. This study reveals a potential increase in mortality when hard...     

Impact of wind gusts on sea surface height in storm surge modelling, application to the North Sea

Storm surge models usually do not take into account the explicit effect of wind gusts on the sea surface height. However, as the wind speed enters quadratically into the shallow water equations, short-term fluctuations around the mean value do not average out. We investigate the impact of explicitly added gustiness on storm surge forecasts in the North Sea, using the WAQUA/DCSM model. The sensitivity of the model results to gustiness is tested with Monte Carlo simulations, and these are used to derive a parametrisation of the effect of gustiness on characteristics of storm surges. With the parametrisation and input from the ECMWF model archive, we run hindcasts for a few individual cases and also the 2007–2008 winter storm season. Although the explicit inclusion of gustiness increases the surge levels, it does not help to explain, and hence reduce, the errors in the model results. Moreover, the errors made by ignoring gustiness are small compared to other errors. We conclude that, at present, there is no need to include gustiness explicitly in storm surge calculations for the North Sea.     

The origin of high sulfate concentrations in a coastal plain aquifer,Long Island,New York

Ion-exchange batch experiments were run on Cretaceous (Magothy aquifer) clay cores from a nearshore borehole and an inland borehole on Long Island, NY, to determine the origin of high SO₄²⁻ concentrations in ground water. Desorption batch tests indicate that the amounts of SO₄²⁻ released from the core samples are much greater (980–4700 μg/g of sediment) than the concentrations in ground-water samples. The locally high SO₄²⁻ concentrations in pore water extracted from cores are consistent with the overall increase in SO₄²⁻ concentrations in ground water along Magothy flow paths. Results of the sorption batch tests indicate that SO₄²⁻ sorption onto clay is small but significant (40–120 μg/g of sediment) in the low-pH (<5) pore water of clays, and a significant part of the SO₄²⁻ in Magothy pore water may result from the oxidation of FeS₂ by dissolved Fe(III). The acidic conditions that result from FeS₂ oxidation in acidic pore water should result in greater sorption of SO₄²⁻ and other anions onto protonated surfaces than in neutral-pH pore water. Comparison of the amounts of Cl⁻ released from a clay core sample in desorption batch tests (4 μg/g of sediment) with the amounts of Cl⁻ sorbed to the same clay in sorption tests (3.7–5 μg/g) indicates that the high concentrations of Cl⁻ in pore water did not originate from connate seawater but were desorbed from sediment that was previously in contact with seawater. Furthermore, a hypothetical seawater transgression in the past is consistent with the observed pattern of sorbed cation complexes in the Magothy cores and could be a significant source of high SO₄²⁻ concentrations in Magothy ground water.     

A record of Holocene environmental and ecological changes from Wildwood Lake,Long Island,New York

Analyses of pollen, charcoal and organic content in a lake sediment core from Wildwood Lake, Long Island, New York, provide insights into the ecological and environmental history of this region. The early Holocene interval of the record (ca. 9800–8800 cal. a BP) indicates the presence of Pinus rigida–Quercus ilicifolia woodlands with high fire activity. A layer of sandy sediment dating to 9200 cal. a BP may reflect a brief period of reduced water depth, consistent with widespread evidence for cold, dry conditions at that time. Two other sandy layers, bracketed by ¹⁴C dates, represent a sedimentary hiatus from ca. 8800 to 4500 cal. a BP. This discontinuity may reflect the removal of some sediment during brief periods of reduced water depth at 5300 and 4600 cal. a BP. In the upper portion of the record (<4500 cal. a BP), subtle changes at ca. 3000 cal. a BP indicate declining prevalence of Quercus–Fagus–Carya forests and increasing abundance of Pinus rigida, perhaps due to reduced summer precipitation. Elevated percentages of herbaceous taxa in the uppermost sediments represent European agricultural activities. However, unlike charcoal records from southern New England, fire activity does not increase dramatically with European settlement. These findings indicate that present‐day Pinus rigida–Quercus ilicifolia woodlands on eastern Long Island are not a legacy of recent, anthropogenic disturbances. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Late-Quaternary sea level changes,Umnak Island,Aleutians—Their effects on ancient Aleuts and their causes

Late-Quaternary sea level changes in the eastern Aleutian Islands are of paramount importance in the reconstruction of the migrations and environment of the ancient Aleuts. A radiocarbon-dated ash stratigraphy provides the chronology into which geomorphic events can be fitted. These provide evidence for the sea level changes. Deployment of beach material and coastal configuration intimate that sea level was about 2–3 m above the present level about 8250 radiocarbon yr BP. Beach deposits suggest that sea level remained high until about 3000 radiocarbon y.a. when it gradually dropped to its present position. It is concluded that the ancient Aleuts that settled Anangula about 8400 y.a. used boats; all major passes in the eastern Aleutians were flooded, and did not have winter ice. Those ancient Aleuts did not have available the major year-around food resources of the present strandflats as they were cut during the high sea level stand 8250–3000 yr BP. The ancient Aleuts must have been marine oriented, for land-based food resources would have been limited.The cause of relative sea level changes on Umnak Island is considered indeterminate with present data. Eustatic, glacial isostatic, water isostatic, tectonic, and volcanic causes are considered the main possible controls in combinations such that a basic eustatic sea level curve and likely a glacial-water isostatic curve must be common to any solution. Representative solutions are given to illustrate some of the problems.     

Impacts of relative sea level rise on the shoreface deposition,Shuidong Bay,South China

The influence of relative sea level rise on shoreface deposition helps to elucidate changes in beach and nearshore geomorphology in response to different forcing factors. In this study, two sets of sediment samples, one from 1982 and one from 2004, from the Shuidong Bay of South China were analyzed to determine the changes in shoreface depositions. An EOF (Empirical orthogonal function) method was used to examine how these depositions changed based on the relative sea level rise. The results show that shoreface sediments of Shuidong Bay are mainly composed of sand. Fine-grained sediments are distributed in the lower shoreface/offshore area, and coarse-grained sediments are mainly found in the upper shoreface/nearshore area. Due to the altered hydrological forcing caused by relative sea level rise, the sand fraction in sediments increased from 84.7 % in 1982 to over 90 % in 2004, and the clay and silt fractions decreased from 11.8 % in 1982 to 5.6 % in 2004. Grain-size parameters in sediments in 2004 became coarser, slightly more well sorted, less skewed and had lower kurtosis than those in 1982. In addition, the shoreface deposition of Shuidong in 1982 and 2004 is distinctly different: a polarized mode was described by the first eigenfunctions, and a homogenized mode was described by the second eigenfunctions. The former means that the sediment components developed towards the two opposite poles, undergoing both coarsening and refining processes. The second mode indicates that the secondary variation in sediment components was mostly in the three intermediate-grained sand components. In the future, the Shuidong Bay shoreface may be subjected to even further erosion because of increases in the energy of the environment resulting from rapid relative sea level rise.     

A modeling study of coastal inundation induced by storm surge,sea-level rise,and subsidence in the Gulf of Mexico

The northern coasts of the Gulf of Mexico (GoM) are highly vulnerable to the direct threats of climate change, such as hurricane-induced storm surge, and such risks are exacerbated by land subsidence and global sea-level rise. This paper presents an application of a coastal storm surge model to study the coastal inundation process induced by tide and storm surge, and its response to the effects of land subsidence and sea-level rise in the northern Gulf coast. The unstructured-grid finite-volume coastal ocean model was used to simulate tides and hurricane-induced storm surges in the GoM. Simulated distributions of co-amplitude and co-phase lines for semi-diurnal and diurnal tides are in good agreement with previous modeling studies. The storm surges induced by four historical hurricanes (Rita, Katrina, Ivan, and Dolly) were simulated and compared to observed water levels at National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration tide stations. Effects of coastal subsidence and future global sea-level rise on coastal inundation in the Louisiana coast were evaluated using a “change of inundation depth” parameter through sensitivity simulations that were based on a projected future subsidence scenario and 1-m global sea-level rise by the end of the century. Model results suggested that hurricane-induced storm surge height and coastal inundation could be exacerbated by future global sea-level rise and subsidence, and that responses of storm surge and coastal inundation to the effects of sea-level rise and subsidence are highly nonlinear and vary on temporal and spatial scales.     

Multiple scenario analyses forecasting the confounding impacts of sea level rise and tides from storm induced coastal flooding in the city of Shanghai,China

Shanghai is physically and socio-economically vulnerable to accelerated sea level rise because of its low elevation, flat topography, highly developed economy and highly-dense population. In this paper, two scenarios of sea level rise and storm surge flooding along the Shanghai coast are presented by forecasting 24 (year 2030) and 44 (year 2050) years into the future and are applied to a digital elevation model to illustrate the extent to which coastal areas are susceptible to levee breach and overtopping using previously developed inflow calculating and flood routing models. Further, the socio-economic impacts are examined by combining the inundation areas with land use and land cover change simulated using GeoCA-Urban software package. This analysis shows that levee breach inundation mainly occurs in the coastal zones and minimally intrudes inland with the conservative protection of dike systems designed. However, storm surge flooding at the possible maximum tide level could cause nearly total inundation of the landscape, and put approximately 24 million people in Shanghai under direct risk resulting from consequences of flooding (e.g. contamination of potable water supplies, failure of septic systems, etc.).     

Sorted bedforms off Western Long Island,New York,USA: Asymmetrical morphology and twelve‐year migration record

Sorted bedforms are widely present in sediment‐starved littoral and inner shelf settings; they are indicators for hydrodynamic conditions and a primary contributor for the subsurface structure. This study investigated the morphology and migration of sorted bedforms on the inner shelf of Long Beach Barrier Island, New York, USA , by repeat geophysical and geological surveys in 2001, 2005 and 2013 (following superstorm Sandy) involving swath bathymetry, backscatter, chirp seismic reflection data and grab sampling. Swath data revealed that the western sector, comprising the western 75% of the survey region, is dominated by NNE –SSW ‐oriented, 0·5 to 1·0 km wide sorted bedforms with highly asymmetrical cross‐sections, with steeper slopes and coarser sands on the eastern (stoss) flanks. Many secondary bedforms were also observed (north–south to north‐east/south‐west oriented lineation structures) at the western edges of coarse sand zones. The eastern sector displays an unusual sorted bedform pattern that is dominated by coarse‐grained substrate, with isolated patches of fine‐grained sands oriented north‐east/south‐west which are 0·15 to 1·0 km in length and ca 30 to 200 m in width, similar in scale and orientation to the secondary bedforms in the western sector. Comparison analysis of the swath data sets indicates that the primary transverse sorted bedform morphology within the western sector was largely stable over this time frame, although the swales were deepened following the storms. The coarse/fine sand boundaries did migrate, however, moving ca 1 to 5 m eastward between 2001 and 2005, and ca 5 to 20 m westward between 2005 and 2013; the higher migration rates (up to 2·5 m year⁻¹) in the latter time period may be attributable to large storm forcing (for example, hurricanes Irene and Sandy). Significant north‐westward migration of the secondary bedforms and coarse sand patches in the western sector, as well as fine sand patches in the eastern sector were also observed; these features are far more mobile than the primary sorted bedforms, possibly because they are fine sand drifts that do not erode into the coarse substrate. Seismic reflection data revealed a transgressive ravinement beneath sorted bedforms, merging with the sea floor at the bottom of swales. The authors hypothesize that long‐term topographic migration of transverse sorted bedforms contributes to the formation and evolution of the ravinement.     

Long Island Sound: Distributions,trends, and effects of chemical contamination

Trace metals and organic contaminants concentrations are monitored annually in surface sediments, blue mussel tissue, and winter flounder livers at multiple sites in Long Island Sound by National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s National Status and Trends (NS&T) program for Marine Environmental Quality. The NS&T program is also conducting various studies on the bioeffects of contaminants in the sound. Three years of monitoring results indicate organic and elemental contaminants concentrations in sediments and biota at sites in the western portion of the sound are high on a national scale. Possible decreasing trends in cadmium and chlordane in the sound are suggested by the 1986–1988 data for their concentrations in mussels. A comparison between NS&T Mussel Watch results and those of the Environmental Protection Agency’s Mussel Watch, conducted from 1976 through 1978, indicated a decadal increase in copper concentrations and a decrease in lead in the sound. Bioeffects studies in the sound have revealed responses to contamination only in localized zones where contaminant levels are very high.