风浪频谱的成长模型Ⅰ.谱参量随风区的增长关系

为得到谱参量随风区的变化关系,从而更细致地刻画风浪频谱的成长方式.在动力学方程的控制下,基于三参量风浪频谱,利用动力-统计学相结合的方法导出了谱参量(谱宽度B、谱的零阶矩～m0、谱的峰频率～ω0)随风场要素(风区)的成长关系分别为:B=5.68×10-3～X9.482×10-1-4.66×10-2ln-x;～m0=1.356×10-8～x2.367-1.097×10-1ln～x;～ω=4.082×101～X-7.623×10-1+3.71×10-2ln～x.同时得到了简化形式的波陡δ、波龄β与谱宽度之间的关系为:δ=2.14×10-2B-1.05-4.26×10-1lnB,β=1.26B1.28+1.97×10-1ln(B).此外,还得出了受风场要素控制的,谱的零阶矩与谱的峰频率之间新关系为:{ω0=a1～m0-0.33 a1=1.034×10-1～X1.872×10-2+8.50×10-4ln～x,从而阐明了先前的各种经验关系是新关系在取不同风区值时的特例.可见,将动力学原理引入风浪频谱的研究,所建立的谱参量随风区的变化关系与先前的经验公式相比更加合理,且普适性更强.     

风浪周期分布与谱宽度的关系

本文通过分析实验室风浪周期分布,发现风浪周期累积概率分布曲线低于Longuet-Higgins理论结果,在小概率周期区域实验结果与理论结果的差异明显。对实验结果进一步分析发现,在谱不是很窄时,在小概率处风浪周期累积概率随谱宽度的增大而降低,这与窄谱假定下的理论结果相反,Longuet-Higgins理论结果在小概率处不便于描述周期分布随谱宽度的变化。根据实验结果提出风浪周期的Weibull分布经验公式,Weibull分布中的参数依赖于谱宽度。     

涌浪对风浪能量影响的实验研究

在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加.     

南麂海域风浪的平均波陡与平均波龄统计分布

利用南麂海洋站１９８１－１９９０年实测波浪资料，探讨了该海域风浪的平均波陡与平均波龄的统计分布特征。分析结果：当风浪平均波陡介于０．０２－０．０４时，其出现频率各季在８２％以上；当风浪平均波龄介于０．５－１．２时，其出现频率各季在７８％以上；当风浪的平均波陡与平均波龄介于０．０２－０．０４和０．５－１．０时，其出现频率为５３．５％－６９．６％。     

海浪周期关系的研究

本文利用现场观测数据、实验室风浪槽观测数据和由文氏谱及JONSWAP谱生成的模拟数据,研究了有效周期与谱平均周期、谱峰周期与谱平均周期以及有效周期与谱峰周期的关系,通过数据拟合给出了相应的关系式.研究发现,有效周期与由谱的负阶矩计算的平均周期之间的关系更加稳定,并且有效周期与负2阶矩计算的平均周期几乎相等,均代表了海浪主导波对海浪平均周期的贡献.     

一种白浪覆盖率与风要素关系模式

采用Ｇｌａｚｍ ａｎ 提出的“微尺度平均”的方法,在合理选择平均尺度的基础上计算了ＪＯＮＳＷＡＰ谱的四阶矩,并将此结果与Ｓｎｙｄｅｒ提出的白浪覆盖率模式结合,从而建立起依赖于风速和风区两者的半经验、半理论的白浪覆盖率与风要素关系模式。此模式给出的结果与Ｍｏｎａｈａｎ 等汇集的海洋白浪覆盖率测量数据总体符合良好。     

风浪波高和周期的联合概率密度分布

本文采用有代表性的44008美国国家浮标站2003年1～3月实测的海浪谱密度资料,选取三次大风过程进行风浪谱分析。通过对实测平均海浪谱与PM谱、JONSWAP谱及Torsethaugen谱的比较,得到PM谱拟和最好。然后用国际上最先进的随机波分析方法,根据协方差矩阵的循环嵌套技术,以实测平均谱与PM谱为靶谱,对随机波面进行模拟。得到由模拟波面统计的特征值及估计的谱与实测谱结果极为相近,谱峰及谱峰频率都基本一致。说明利用模拟波面研究海浪具有代表性,它可以反映实测海浪的特征。利用Longuet-Higgins(1983)模型计算波高-周期联合概率密度分布,得到变换高斯过程计算的波高、周期联合分布与实测情况基本相同,更好地描述了波高-周期联合概率密度分布。     

台湾海峡表层月平均流速与两岸月平均水位差的关系

海洋中大多数区域的海流,特别是流速较强的海流,其性质以地转流为主。所以,海流流速流向的变化与海面的横流坡度,亦即横流两侧的水位差有着密切的关系。一百多年前,Peslin(1872)首先将地转方程应用于墨西哥湾流上。后来,Dietrich(1946)引用丹麦灯船上所进行的海流观测结果和卡特加特海峡两侧岛上的水位观测结果,证实了地转方程的实用意义。到目前为止,已有许多作者应用流速和横流水位差的这一关系,探讨了世界大洋和海峡等处海流的变动规律。例如,Montgomery(1938,1941),Hela(1952),Stommel(1953)及Wunsch等(1969)讨论了佛罗里达海流和湾流的季节变化与水位的关系;森安茂松(Moriyasu, 1961)和二谷颖男(1973)等讨论了水位与黑潮海况以及流速流量的关系;Wyrtki(1973, 1974a, 1974b)研究了西太平洋赤道流、赤道逆流流速流量的季节变化和海流两侧岛屿的水位差的关系。还有Sok-U Yi(1970)研究了朝鲜海峡中水位与对马暖流表层流速季节变化的关系;ΓaлepKИЧ等(1962)也曾讨论了爪哇海水位与流速的关系。关于我国的台湾海峡,Wyrtki(1957,1961) 曾给出了台湾海峡表层流速的季节变化曲线,并将流速与高雄-澳门断面的水位差作了比较,绘制了两者的相关图。现在,几乎普遍地认为：沿岸和岛屿上所进行的水位观测,可为研究海流变动规律提供方便、准确和连续的资料,是监视海流变动最合适的途径之一。本文应用手头所有的资料,一方面从多年平均情况来讨论台湾海峡表层月平均流速与两岸月平均水位差的关系;另一方面以各年各月情况为例,来分析两岸水位差与海峡西岸水位的关系,供研究台湾海峡海流趋势预报方法时参考。     

粗糙度与风浪特征量关系的研究

在实验室风浪槽中观测风浪和风速,研究粗糙度与波面特征量的关系,发现风浪谱宽度增加,粗糙度增大。在窄谱时,粗糙度随谱宽的增加变化不明显,当波陡降低,粗糙度降低;在宽谱时,当谱宽度增加,即使波陡降低,粗糙度仍可增大。这一结果表明,波陡不足以完全决定粗糙度。当风浪波龄增加,粗糙度呈下降趋势,但由于谱宽度对粗糙度的影响,当波龄增加,部分波浪可有较大的粗糙度。由于这一因素,在粗糙度与波龄关系的观测结果中,数据点的散落不完全由观测误差造成。     

基于原位激光粒度仪(LISST)的悬浮体平均粒径计算方法对比研究

根据2012年夏季和2016年冬季在南黄海中部利用原位激光粒度仪(laser in situ scattering and transmissometry,LISST)进行调查获得的实测数据,对两种平均粒径计算方法的结果进行比较研究,并对产生差别的原因进行分析。结果表明:无论在夏季和冬季,在温度跃层以上粒度分布以粗颗粒为主,两种计算方法差值较小,可以相互替代。在温盐跃层以下层位,细颗粒组分增加,导致二者计算差值变大。端元分析表明较高的平均粒径值倾向于造成平均粒径差值增大。矩值法强调了粗颗粒组分的贡献,而平均粒级法对细颗粒组分的贡献更加敏感,后者是更适用于将LISST观测数据应用于陆架海区现代沉积环境研究的粒径参数计算方法。本文为使用LISST在陆架海区进行现代沉积过程研究提供了参考。     

Estimation of wind speed and wave height during cyclones

Wave and wind characteristics based on the cyclones, in the vicinity of the Nagapattinam coastline (east coast of India) were estimated. In all, 11 cyclones have crossed near the study region during 1960–1996. For the four severe cyclones, the isobaric charts were collected at three hourly intervals from the India Meteorological Department. The storm variables such as central pressure, radius of maximum wind, speed of forward motion and direction of storm movement were extracted and the method based on standard Hydromet pressure profile, were used for the hindcast of storm wind fields. For all the cyclones the maximum significant wave height within the storm and its associated spectral peak period was estimated using the Young’s model considering the moving wind field and the results are compared with the hurricane wave prediction techniques provided in the shore protection manual published by the US Army Corps of Engineers in 1984. The study shows that the estimated wind speed and the data reported by ships were comparable. Empirical expressions relating wind speed, wave height and wave period to storm parameters were derived. The design wave height for different return periods was obtained by fitting a two-parameter Weibull distribution to the estimated significant wave heights. The design wave height was 9.39 m for 1 in 100 year return period for a direct hit of cyclone.     

深水极端波浪非线性几何特征试验分析

为了解极端波浪非线性特征,明确波群在演化过程中的水动力学特性,针对一系列高斯波群进行了深水物理试验分析。试验结果显示,增加波陡或波群宽度,均可使波面偏度Sk发生明显变化,尤其当波浪发生破碎后,在破碎区域内,波面偏度变化范围剧烈增大,说明该偏度极大值可能作为判断破碎的一个指标。波陡和波群宽度对波面不对称度影响程度不同:当波陡或波群宽度增加后,波峰不对称度所受影响最大,波峰前端波谷不对称度次之,波峰后端波谷不对称度所受影响最小,但仍不可忽略。在波浪演化过程中,幅值谱出现不同程度频带下移,波浪破碎后,会出现永久频带下移;当调制不稳定发生时,随着调制不稳定指数增加,频带下移量呈现快速增长趋势。     

Anisotropy of wind and wave regimes in the Baltic proper

The directional distribution of moderate and strong winds in the Baltic Sea region is shown to be strongly anisotropic. The dominating wind direction is south-west and a secondary peak corresponds to north winds. North-west storms are relatively infrequent and north-east storms are extremely rare. Angular distribution of extreme wind speed also has a two-peaked shape with maxima corresponding to south-west and north winds, and a deep minimum for easterly winds. The primary properties of the anisotropy such as prevailing winds, frequency of their occurrence, directional distribution of mean and maximum wind speeds coincide on both sides of the Baltic proper. The specific wind regime penetrates neither into the mainland nor into the Gulf of Finland or the Gulf of Riga.Properties of the saturated wave field in the neighbourhood of proposed sites of the Saaremaa (Ösel) deep harbour are analysed on the basis of the wave model WAM forced by steady winds. The directional distribution of wave heights in typical and extreme storms is highly anisotropic. Remarkable wave height anomalies may occur in the neighbourhood of the harbour sites.     

Interactions between fully nonlinear water waves and cylinder arrays in a wave tank

Fully nonlinear interactions between water waves and vertical cylinder arrays in a numerical tank are studied based on a finite element method (FEM). The three-dimensional (3D) mesh is constructed through an extension of a 2D Delaunay surface grid along the vertical line. The velocity potential is obtained by solving a linear matrix system of FEM, and a difference scheme is then used to calculate the velocity on the free surface to track its movement. Waves and hydrodynamic forces are obtained for both bottom mounted and truncated cylinders. The simulations have provided many results to show the nature of mutual interference between cylinders in arrays and its effects on waves and forces at the nearly trapped mode frequency. The effect of the tank wall on waves and forces has been investigated, and the nonlinear features of waves and forces have also been discussed.     

A function to determine wavelength from deep into shallow water based on the length of the cnoidal wave at breaking—Reply to discussion by T.S. Hedges

The equations of Hedges [Hedges, T.S., 2009. Discussion of “A function to determine wavelength from deep into shallow water based on the length of the cnoidal wave at breaking” by J.P. Le Roux, Coastal Eng.], although yielding similar wavelengths, are not consistent with the fact that the horizontal water particle velocity in the wave crest should equal the wave celerity at breaking over a nearly horizontal bottom.     

Discussion of “A function to determine wavelength from deep in to shallow water based on the length of the cnoidal wave at breaking” by J.P. Le Roux

An empirical modification to the Airy equation for wave celerity reduces to the expression for solitary waves in shallow water whilst retaining its usual form for deep water. The equation yields celerities in reasonable agreement with those for cnoidal waves in intermediate water depths. In this aspect, it is similar to the work described by Le Roux [Le Roux, J.P., 2007. A function to determine wavelength from deep into shallow water based on the length of the cnoidal wave at breaking. Coastal Engineering 54, 770–774]. The empirical modification has been widely applied in computer programs over the past 30 years.     

处理解释一体化技术在琼东南盆地深水区的实践

琼东南盆地深水区具有巨大的勘探潜力,但该区地震资料大多为二维资料,且中深层资料品质普遍偏差,对评价古近系影响较大。处理解释一体化技术在琼东南盆地深水区的实践采用的方法是：以陵水凹陷为例,通过对该区地震资料的品质进行分类分析,优选出可能改善的测线进行针对目的层的试处理,对试处理结果和效果进行分析,最后进行批处理。处理解释一体化达到了提高地震资料品质,进而精细研究和评价圈闭目标直至井位研究的目的。实践表明该方法在琼东南盆地深水区的应用是成功的,对于研究陵水凹陷的内部结构和规模及其周缘的凸起结构起到了重要作用。     

Comparison of wind and wave measurements and models in the Western Mediterranean Sea

We have hindcast the wind and wave conditions in the Mediterranean Sea for two one month periods. Four different meteorological models and three different wave models have been used. The results have been compared with satellite and buoy wind and wave observations.Several conclusions concerning both the instruments and the models have been derived. The quality of both wind and wave results has been assessed. Close to the coasts high resolution, nested wave models are required for sufficient reliability.A wave threshold analysis suggests a sufficient reliability only off the coast, with a substantial decrease for low wave heights.     

楔形体在波浪中自由入水的数值模拟

物体入水时波浪的影响不可忽略,基于流体力学模型采用VOF法,并利用自定义函数,模拟了楔形体的自由入水过程;同时结合推波板原理及海绵层消波理论实现了数值水槽的造消波,完成了波浪中楔形体自由入水的模拟,计算了楔形体入水时所受的水作用力、自由液面变化及物面压强分布等,研究了不同波高、周期以及在波浪不同位置入水时对楔形体的影响。结果表明:本文建立的数值模型可很好地模拟楔形体入水造成的射流及空泡的形成发展过程,波浪对楔形体入水的影响主要由波浪内部流场变化及表面波形决定,在波浪不同位置处入水对楔形体受力及入水形态均有较大影响。